home Chef

Neven Maguire

This book is dedicated to my mother, Vera, who gave me her love and appreciation for food. I’ll be forever grateful.

CONTENTS

Cover

Title Page

Introduction

Chef’s Skills

Bread

Canapés, Soups & Starters

Main Courses

Desserts & Petit Fours

Drinks

Larder

Index

Acknowledgements

Copyright

About the Publisher

Introduction

The work involved in producing a book is always exciting. But this one has been especially important for me. I have now had 32 happy years in this world and have been cooking professionally for half of them. I have enjoyed every minute and cannot imagine any other life except that of being a chef. That is the kernel of this book. The aim of Home Chef is to help give people the confidence to cook at a high level in their own home, from everyday family meals to dishes with a generous helping of the ‘wow’ factor.

When I think back to my early training days, I realise how my cooking has changed over the years and how the knowledge of my customers has developed. There are many people out there who are deeply interested in food and wine and very knowledgeable about what they eat and how it is prepared. Sometimes, diners in the restaurant tell me about meals where they each cooked a different course from my previous books. It is always interesting to hear how people use my books and so it is vital that my recipes are tried and tested to ensure that people get real pleasure from the results. I had these cooks very much in mind when deciding on material for Home Chef and developing recipes that would produce good results for readers. I hope this book will work well for everyone.

I remember my first week in catering college: I cut vegetables for the entire time, forcing me to learn knife skills before cooking a single thing. As a result, I’ve included in this book the bits of information that I think of as the building blocks of good cooking – what to look for when buying knives, what to keep in your larder, and essential skills such as filleting fish. I want Home Chef to be a one-stop resource to help readers know what to request from their butcher, local growers, or at the farmers market. There is also a chapter full of sauces and dressings that you can make, keep, freeze and then use when needed. With so many people cooking at home, this will help them to buy in and prepare ahead.

No one wants to be stuck in the kitchen all day – that’s my job! Guests at the restaurant want a memorable meal. They don’t just want a piece of beef – they want it cooked in four different ways. This is okay for me with nine chefs in the kitchen, but no good for the home cook. I have given the recipes a lot of thought so that you can manage the dishes at home and at the same time flex your culinary muscles. I hope this is a book that you will keep on coming back to and get good use from over the years. What I really want is for everyone to cook something really delicious to eat with family and friends. If Home Chef helps you to do this, I will be well satisfied.

Happy Cooking!

Using This Book

There are recipes in this book for all abilities and I’ve tried to include ways for more confident cooks to stretch their skills a little further. The level of each recipe is shown by the number of chef’s hats beside it:

  Straightforward

  Intermediate

  Stretch your Skills Further

If you’re nervous about trying some of the more advanced recipes, you can always make just the main part of the dish, and save the accompaniments or sauces for when you’ve had a bit more experience. Don’t forget to refer to the glossary on pages 34-6 if there are words or phrases that you’re not familiar with.

Oven Temperatures Timings and temperatures are given for fan ovens. If you’re using a conventional oven, increase the temperature by 10 degrees.

Eggs All recipes were tested using medium-sized eggs (size 3). Try to use free-range or organic eggs wherever possible. Look out for the Bord Bia Quality Assurance mark; in the UK, look out for the Lion Quality mark.

Herbs Unless otherwise stated, all herbs used in the recipes are fresh.

Chef’s Skills
Store Cupboard Essentials

One of the best-kept secrets of the clever cook is a well-stocked larder. From basic essentials such as eggs and milk to handy convenience foods like Mexican flour tortillas, if you keep yourself well organised, you’ll never run short of ideas when it comes to preparing tasty food. Of course, I have many items in my store cupboards, some of which you might not need, so either omit them or swap them for similar items that you prefer – after all, cookery is all about experimentation and personal taste.

Whatever you do decide to put in it, keep your store cupboard tidy -regularly throw out items that are out of date and arrange things logically. I always put little stickers on the tops of my spice jars so that I can find the one I want without having to rifle through every single jar. Try to buy spices in small quantities as ideally they should be replenished every six months or so.

Canned foods

Chopped plum tomatoes

Sweetcorn kernels

Chickpeas

Coconut milk (I buy all my oriental ingredients from a company called Thai Gold. They are available by mail order and in Irish supermarkets)

Tuna

Anchovies

Black olives

Baked beans

Fresh goods

Spring onions

Tomatoes

Garlic

Onions

Potatoes

Celery

Carrots

Oranges and lemons

Bread: soft flour tortillas; sliced bread; longer-life part-baked breads such as Italian ciabatta

Bottles and jars

Sunflower oil

Olive oil

Extra virgin olive oil

Toasted sesame oil

Duck/goose fat

White wine and red wine vinegar

Balsamic vinegar

Soy sauce (light and dark)

Tomato ketchup

Wholegrain and Dijon mustard

Worcestershire sauce

Tabasco sauce

Sweet chilli sauce

Thai fish sauce (nam pla)

Sun-dried tomato paste

Tomato purée

Roasted red peppers

Horseradish sauce

Capers

Mayonnaise

Clear honey

Nutella

Toffee sauce

Jam

Vanilla extract (not essence)

Wine: red; white; sherry; port; brandy

In the fridge

Milk

Eggs

Butter

Double cream, crème fraîche and Greek yoghurt

Mascarpone cheese

Parmesan

Mature Cheddar

Smoked streaky bacon

Parma ham Wild rocket

Chilli Jam (for homemade, see page 215)

Red Onion Marmalade (for homemade, see page 209)

Port and Balsamic Syrup (for homemade, see page 214)

In the freezer

As well as buying ready-frozen items, I like to freeze these handy time-savers:

Root ginger: much easier to grate when frozen. Peel 2.5cm (1in) pieces and wrap in freezer film before freezing

Herbs: leftover fresh herbs can be put in strong plastic bags and stored in the freezer. They’re ready for cooking with at any time, so when you need them, just pull off a handful and crumble into the pan – no need to chop

Bread: most bread freezes very well, particularly in individual slices ready for putting straight into the toaster

Stock: freeze stocks in 600ml (1 pint) rigid plastic containers and allow to thaw before using

Galangal, kaffir lime leaves and curry leaves: freeze any leftovers in small strong plastic bags and use straight from the freezer

Garden peas

Vanilla ice cream

Pastry: puff, shortcrust, filo and kataifi (for more info see pages 70 and 216)

Spring roll wrappers

Wonton wrappers

Dried goods

Baking powder

Bicarbonate of soda

Flours: plain, strong plain, self-raising and wholemeal

Dried yeast sachets

Spaghetti

Pasta shapes e.g. penne / tagliatelle (I prefer the De Cecco brand)

Egg noodles

Rice: long grain, basmati, risotto and organic brown

Couscous

White beans, such as haricot

Polenta

Dried mixed wild mushrooms

Popcorn kernels

Digestive biscuits

Plain chocolate (at least 70% cocoa solids)

Sugar: caster, light muscovado and icing

Stock cubes (The Kallo brand are good and also low in salt)

Maldon sea salt

Herbs and spices: black peppercorns, ground cumin, coriander, paprika, cinnamon, Chinese five-spice, cayenne, dried chilli flakes, curry powder and paste, cloves, saffron and vanilla pods

Dried fruit: raisins/sultanas, apricots, prunes

Nuts: flaked almonds, pine nuts and pecan nuts

Sesame seeds

Fresh Herbs

Herbs contribute hugely to my enjoyment of food. I use them to add scent, flavour and colour to almost every dish that I produce in the kitchen. It’s hard to imagine cooking without them. The flavour of each herb comes from the essential oils stored in its leaves, stems and flowers, which are released as the leaf is cut, torn or heated. To illustrate this, pick a leaf of basil, sage or tarragon and crush between your fingers. Notice how much more pungent and powerful the smell becomes. I’d like to say I grow all my own herbs, but I am lucky enough to have two local organic growers who deliver to me regularly. They pick the herbs at about 6.30am, when the plants are holding the most moisture. However, I do grow some mint in the garden and always have a pot of basil on the windowsill in my kitchen. Always add chopped herbs right at the end of the cooking or they will discolour and their flavour may change. I keep herbs in a bowl of water until the last minute to prevent them wilting.

Basil

No other herb brings the flavour of Mediterranean cooking into your kitchen in quite the same way. Its warm, spicy smell and flavour livens up a tomato salad, or it can be pounded with Parmesan, pine nuts and olive oil to make pesto (see page 208). If you are using it raw, it is better to shred the leaves by hand as this helps retain the flavour. There are several varieties: sweet, which I cook with; purple for garnishing; Napolina, which has leaves nearly the size of your hand and is best for pesto; and Thai holy basil (basil in name only, as not technically from the same family), which is perfect in oriental dishes.

Bay leaves

The strong and distinctive flavour of bay is best released by lengthy cooking. It is part of the classic bouquet garni. We use bay leaves in court-bouillon (see page 34), stocks (see pages 218-19), casseroles and pot roasts.

Chervil

Its delicate anise flavour is ideal in salads, soups, stews and sauces. Use in any recipe calling for ‘fines herbes’, and with white meat. Excellent in herb butter. Avoid prolonged cooking as this destroys the flavour and colour.

Chives

Use in dressings, as a garnish or chop into summer salads. The flowers look great in salads. Chives are essential in potato salad and can be used in egg dishes or to flavour butter for barbecuing. They tend to discolour, so add at the very end of cooking. Onion- and garlic-flavoured chives are also available.

1. Basil

2. Chervil

3. Chives

Coriander

Use in Middle Eastern and Asian dishes. It’s especially good scattered on top of curries, and is best added towards the end of cooking. The roots and stalks can also be ground down and used in curry pastes and marinades.

Dill

This has a mild caraway flavour and is best added just before serving. Use in fish marinades, sauces, soups and salads. I also find it particularly good with potatoes, chicken, fish and egg recipes.

Marjoram

This has pungent leaves and flowers. Hang small bunches in a warm, dry place to dry out, then store in labelled screw-topped jars in a dark cupboard and use in homemade tomato sauces or to flavour tomato pulp for pizzas. Marjoram makes a good addition to a marinade, particularly for fish. We use fresh marjoram in the restaurant as part of our special herbal tea – a wonderful mixture of bronze fennel, apple mint, lemon thyme, lemon balm and marjoram. The tea aids digestion and has the most fantastic fragrance.

4. Coriander

5. Dill

6. Marjoram

Mint

Many flavours of mint are available, including peppermint, ginger, apple and pineapple. Toss with new potatoes or peas, or serve as a sauce with roast lamb. It is wonderful in summer drinks and fruit salads or serve with ice cream and your favourite summer berries. We serve freshly brewed mint and peppermint tea in the restaurant and both are very popular.

Parsley

There are two kinds of parsley: curly parsley and the continental flat-leaf parsley. Both have a vivid green colour and although the continental variety has a more pronounced flavour, they can be used interchangeably in almost any savoury recipe. Parsley is the most used herb in my kitchen. Finely chop with garlic and mix with butter to put on top of mussels, to flavour grilled meat or fish, or simply to mix with vegetables.

7. Sage

8. Rosemary

9. Tarragon

Rocket (common or wild)

This old-fashioned salad herb is enjoying a great revival. It has a spicy flavour and makes an excellent simple salad or can be quickly cooked in a little olive oil. In Italy it is often served with carpaccio: thin slices of raw beef with Parmesan shavings and a dribble of olive oil (see page 92) but it is equally good with slices of smoked salmon.

Rosemary

A very strongly flavoured herb, so use sparingly. It’s often finely chopped in stuffing for poultry, meat and game. I also like to insert sprigs into roast lamb or pork – remove them before serving. Occasionally we use rosemary in sweet dishes such as creams, custards or poached fruit (such as pears).

Sage

Not subtle, but very versatile, this can be used fresh or dried and is excellent combined with tomatoes, olive oil and garlic. It works well with fatty meats like pork or duck, or, as is traditional in Italy, with offal such as kidneys and liver. Some of the best stuffed pasta dishes of the Italian Modena region are served simply with melted butter and sage leaves.

Tarragon

Its delicate aniseed flavour goes well with chicken. Considered by the French as one of the most important culinary herbs, this is an essential ingredient of béarnaise sauce. A few sprigs make a nice addition to pot-roasted chicken, or infuse in vinegar to make a vinaigrette.

Thyme

One of the most important and widely used herbs, which comes in a variety of flavours. It has an intensely aromatic flavour, perfect in slow-cooked dishes, such as casseroles. Thyme is an ingredient of the bouquet garni, together with parsley and bay. A couple of sprigs of lemon thyme work well tucked into a whole salmon or trout, or try stuffing the cavity of a roast duck with orange thyme.

Equip Yourself

The first step to becoming a successful home chef is to keep your kitchen well equipped. You don’t need a lot of gear, but it makes sense to buy the best you can afford, then you know it will work for you and last a decent amount of time. Below left are the essential items that everyone should own, while the handy extras on the right are things I use less often. You might choose to buy only some of these, but I like to have them all to hand as they save me time and effort and help me to create stunning results.

The Basics

1 large sharp knife (Cook’s knife)

1 small sharp knife (Paring knife)

1 bread knife

1 chef’s steel/knife sharpener

Can opener

2 chopping boards

Large non-stick frying pan

3 sizes of heavy-based saucepans

3 wooden spoons (or I use heatproof Mafter exoglass spoons)

Set of kitchen scales

Colander

Measuring jug

Metal hand whisk

Metal sieve

Slotted spoon

Fish slice

Potato masher

Swivel-style vegetable peeler

Box-style cheese grater

Pastry brush

Rolling pin

Roasting tin

Baking sheet

Casserole dish with lid

Tiered bamboo steamer

Cast-iron griddle pan (with metal handle)

Handy Extras

Lemon zester

Lemon juicer

Tongs

Tweezers (for boning fish)

Potato ricer

Palette knife

Hand-held blender (my preference is Bamix)

Food processor

Kitchen scissors

Wok

Rubber spatula (heatproof)

Flour dredger

Chef’s blowtorch

Nylon sieve (for straining fruit, as some fruits react with metal)

Mortar and pestle

Measuring spoons

6 ramekins (try to build up a selection of different sizes)

6 dariole moulds (castle-shaped ramekins, narrower at one end)

Microplane grater (try to build up a selection of different blades)

Fluted round cutters (in various sizes)

Chef’s rings — 10cm (4in), 6cm (2½in) and 5cm (2in)

Disposable piping bags and nozzles

23cm (9in) loose-bottomed cake tin

Muffin tin and mini-muffin tin

Knives

Although you can get by with just the three knives listed on page 17, a full set of good knives is the best investment a keen cook can ever make. I recommend buying the most expensive set of knives you can possibly afford, because they should last for the rest of your life. I use Henckel knives, which are available from most good cookware shops, department stores and online.

When choosing a knife set, one of the most important factors to consider is the type of steel used to make the blades. The majority of knives are manufactured from a blend of high-carbon stainless steel that resists rust and corrosion and is dishwasher-proof. The ‘tang’ is the part of the knife where the metal is attached to the handle. The best knives will have a tang in which the metal visibly extends inside the handle, right to the end.

Good-quality knives are well balanced and feel good in the cook’s hand. Don’t be afraid to try holding them in the shop. They should be easy to handle and should feel solid, not flimsy. As a general rule, a good knife should feel like an extension of your own hand and should allow adequate space between the point where your fingers grip the knife and the surface on to which you are cutting. Once a month, we get someone to come into the restaurant to sharpen our knives, but a good butcher should be happy to do this for you – they normally have machines which will do a good job in seconds. You can also sharpen the knives yourself using a sharpening steel (see page 21 for instructions).

If you do decide to invest in a set of knives, the ones listed overleaf are the basic set with which I would begin. It’s also worth getting a knife block so that the knives can be kept in a safe place and are easily accessible. It helps prevent them from getting damaged or ruined.

1. Sharpening steel

2. Paring knif

3. Cook’s knife

4. Bread knife

Cook’s Knife

This is the knife I use most often and which I could never do without in the kitchen. Its 26cm (10½ in) blade gives me the perfect balance between handle and blade, allowing excellent hold – perfect for chopping vegetables or herbs.

Carving Knife

To ensure the perfect edge for carving meat, poultry, etc., choose a carving knife with a long, thin and slightly upturned blade.

Boning Knife

An authentic butcher’s knife, designed especially to separate meat from bone. The blade is characteristically thin and curved, which ensures a thin cut. It can be used to remove the bones and cuts through meat very easily.

Bread Knife

This knife has a long serrated blade of approximately 20cm (8in). A good one will slice bread without leaving a lot of crumbs.

Scalloped Slicing Knife

A perfect knife for slicing roasts and dense meats such as large continental sausages. It has a comfortable handle and the scallops on the blade trap small air bubbles between the metal and the food, preventing the food from sticking to the blade and making it easy to slice meats very finely. The scalloped slicing knife is also good for cutting thicker slices with more precision. However, it is not suitable for carving meat on the bone – it’s too long and doesn’t have a point, so will feel very clumsy in this situation.

Filleting Knife

Despite its name, which suggests it is used for meat, this knife’s speciality is actually fish! Choose one with a thin, flexible blade for performing the most delicate kitchen operation: preparing perfect fillets. You’ll also need tweezers to remove the last few tiny bones left in the fillet.

Paring Knife

Used to trim meat and remove lard, fat and sinew, and to peel and cut up fruits and vegetables. A paring knife has a blade approximately 10cm (4in) long that allows you to work easily. You can also buy ones with a serrated edge, which stay sharper for longer and the tops don’t tend to break off.

Sharpening Steel

An essential accessory for keeping your knives sharp. Hold the steel vertically, either pressed on to a tea towel on a flat surface as shown below, or, when you feel more confident, held freely at arm’s length in front of you. Slide the knife blade down the steel, at an angle, then again down the opposite side of the steel. Repeat about six times on each side until the knife is sharp – your cutting edge is now ready for work.

Knife Skills for Fish
Cleaning Round Fish (for when serving whole) Such as cod, haddock, trout, salmon and sea bass

Snip the fins off the fish with kitchen scissors and then remove the scales by scraping the fish from head to tail with a blunt, thick-bladed knife. To remove the guts, slit open the belly from the anal fin (two-thirds of the way down the fish from the head) up towards the head. Pull out most of the guts with your hand, then cut away any entrails left behind and wash out the cavity under cold running water.

1. Filleting round fish: cut V-shape

2. Cut down the length of the back

3. Cut the fillet away from the bone

Cleaning Flat Fish (for when serving whole) Such as sole and plaice

To remove the guts, locate the gut cavity by pressing on the whitest side of the fish just below the head until you find an area that is much softer. Make a small incision across this area and pull out the guts with your little finger. Trim the fish by snipping off the fins with kitchen scissors.

4. Remove the fillet and turn over

5. Repeat same cuts on the other side

6. Two perfect fillets from round fish

Filleting Round Fish

Lay the fish on the board and, on the uppermost side, cut closely around the head in a V-shape so that you don’t lose too much of the fillet. Lay the fish with its back towards you (unless you are left-handed like me, in which case place it with its back away from you). Cut along the length of the back, keeping the blade of the knife above the horizontal backbone.

Starting at the head, cut the fillet away from the bones, keeping the blade as close to them as you can. Once you have released some of the fillet, lift it up with your fingers to make it easier to see where you are cutting. When you near the rib bones, cut as close to them as you can or, if very fine, cut through them and then remove the bones from the fillet afterwards using tweezers.

Turn the fish over, again cut the V-shape around the head, and repeat the rest of the cuts to remove the fillet from the second side.

7. Filleting flat fish: cut around head

8. Cut down the centre of the fish

9. Fold back the fillet as you cut

Filleting Flat Fish

You will get four fillets from a flat fish. Lay the fish on a chopping board and cut around the back of the head and also across the tail. »

Then cut through the skin down the centre of the fish, very slightly to one side of the raised backbone, working from the head down to the tail.

Starting where the backbone meets the head, slide the blade of the knife under the corner of one of the fillets. Carefully cut away from the bones, folding the released fillet back as you do so. Keep the blade of the knife almost flat and as close to the bones as possible. Remove the adjacent fillet in the same way. Turn the fish over and repeat on the other side.

Skinning Fillets of Fish

Place the fillet skin-side down on a chopping board with the narrowest (tail) end nearest to you. Angling the blade of the knife down towards the skin, start to cut between the flesh and the skin until a little flap is released.

Flip the fish over. Firmly take hold of the skin and, working away from you, continue to cut between the flesh and skin, sawing with the knife from side to side and keeping the blade of the knife close against the skin until all the skin is removed.

Preparing Prawns or Langoustines Including tiger and Dublin Bay

Firmly twist the head away from the body and discard, or rinse and keep to use for stock (see page 219). Lay the prawn upside-down and break open the shell along the belly, then carefully peel the shell away from the flesh.

With large, raw prawns it is important to remove the intestinal tract, which looks like a thin black vein running down the back of the prawn flesh. Run the tip of a small knife down the back of the prawn and then lift up and pull out the vein.

Preparing Vegetables

Always shake or brush off any loose earth before washing vegetables. All vegetables must be thoroughly washed before cooking, with the exception of mushrooms, which should be brushed or wiped using a pastry brush. As cultivated mushrooms are grown in sterile soil this is sufficient. If they are genuinely wild, then trim them down, cutting off any bruised or damaged bits with a small, pointed knife, and brush or wipe as before.

Vegetables with inedible skins (such as onion, thick-skinned roots and tubers, and some squashes) need to be peeled. A vegetable peeler or small paring knife is best for peeling. A really sharp knife (see pages 20-1) and a good, heavy chopping board are essential for slicing and chopping.

Some vegetables, notably celeriac, artichoke bottoms, Jerusalem artichokes and salsify, rapidly discolour and begin to lose their vitamins once they are cut. To prevent this, try not to prepare them too far in advance. When peeling and cutting the vegetables, use a stainless steel knife and drop them immediately into ‘acidulated’ water. To prepare acidulated water, simply add the juice of one lemon to 600ml (1 pint) water.

How to Peel Garlic

Cut the root end off the clove of garlic. Lay the clove flat on the chopping board and rest the blade of a large knife horizontally on it. Lean heavily on the flat blade with the heel of your hand. The garlic clove will crack under the weight and will simultaneously be released from its papery skin. Remove any green stalk from the centre and finely chop using a rocking motion.

How to Chop an Onion

Peel the onion and chop off the root and tip. (If you’re less confident, you can leave the root attached until the last minute to hold the pieces securely together. But don’t forget to remove it before cooking!) Cut the onion in half through the root end (see the step by step pictures over the page). Place one half of the onion flat-side down on the chopping board. » Make about six parallel cuts downwards with the knife tip pointing towards the root end, but cutting short of the root end so that the onion continues to hold together.

Next, with the onion still facing downwards, and holding it steady from the root end, make three horizontal cuts one above the other, towards the root. Again, be careful not to slice all the way through – the half must still hold together.

Finally, chop down repeatedly across the width of the onion. Perfect cubes will fall from your knife!

1. Onion: cutting in half

2. Making downwards cuts

3. Making horizontal cuts

Using a Mandolin

A mandolin is a plane-slicer tool, which originated in the Far East and is used to cut potatoes or other vegetables. Most models offer various cuts and thicknesses but typically they have three blades – one each for fine, medium and large ribbons. If you haven’t used a mandolin before, try to purchase one that has a tripod and a guard for your fingers.

Julienne

This is a term used when vegetables or fruit rind are cut into very fine strips. Peel the skin from the vegetable if necessary. Trim away any root or stem parts. If the vegetable is round, like a potato or carrot, cut in half and lay it cut-side down on the board. This will keep it from rolling. Cut the edible part of the vegetable into slices about 3mm (1/8in) thick. Cut around the seeds and discard if necessary. Turn these slices on their side and slice again into even strips 3mm (1/8in) thick. Use as required.

4. Chopping the onion into cubes

5. Slicing courgette with a mandolin

6. Slicing carrot with a mandolin

Brunoise

Brunoise is a method of chopping in which the vegetable is first julienned (see above) and then turned 90 degrees and sliced again, producing cubes or dice with a side length of no more than 3mm (1/8in). The cubes should be consistent in size and shape, to create an attractive finish. Common vegetables to be brunoised are leeks, turnips and carrots. The diced vegetables are blanched briefly in salty boiling water and then submerged in ice water for a few seconds to set the colour. The brunoise is often used as a garnish – for example, scattered on a consommé (a type of soup).

7. Preparing carrot for julienne

8. Cutting julienne strips

9. Chopping into brunoise cubes

Choosing Meat

A good butcher is invaluable; a shop run by helpful, knowledgeable staff inevitably means they care about the meat they stock and will have treated it properly. They should be able to advise you about cooking times and recommended methods as well as prepare joints and steaks to your requirements.

Meat should always look and smell fresh. A bright red or pink doesn’t necessarily indicate freshness. Instead, look for a good, clear colour; although bear in mind that it will darken naturally on exposure to air. Beef should be well hung for a better flavour. Look out for labels stating that the meat has been ‘dry aged’. This means that 30 per cent of the moisture has been removed and as a result the beef should be firm to the touch.

Any fat should be creamy white; if it’s yellow (except for some very specialist breeds), the meat is probably past its prime. Look for a smooth outer layer of fat, if appropriate to the cut, and a fair amount of ‘marbled’ fat distributed throughout the meat; this will keep it moist during cooking and add flavour.

Always look for a neat, well-trimmed piece of meat, with sinew removed. Splinters of bone and ragged edges indicate poor butchery. Joints and steaks should be of uniform thickness so that they cook evenly.

Minced meat is best eaten on the day of purchase. Larger joints, chops and steaks will keep for 2-3 days. Lean cuts will keep for longer as it is the fat that turns rancid first. If in doubt, smell it – ‘off’ meat will have an unpleasant odour and a slimy surface.

I always remove meat from its original wrapping and then put it, wrapped in fresh cling film, on a plate in the fridge to prevent blood dripping through the fridge shelves. Remember to always store raw meat away from cooked foods to prevent cross-contamination. As a general rule, remove meat from the fridge 30 minutes to 1 hour before you intend to use it. This allows it to relax and return to room temperature. Once cooked, rest it once more so that the juices stay in the meat after it is cut. »

In Ireland we are lucky enough to have a Quality Assurance scheme run by Bord Bia, the Irish food board, who are committed to supporting Irish farmers and the industry to produce the safest and highest quality food possible. Bord Bia have tirelessly championed Irish meat abroad and have been responsible for allowing artisan businesses to blossom and expand under their watchful eye. Look out for their quality mark- a shamrock with an Irish flag. It guarantees that the meat can be traced back to the farm on which the animal was reared.

Meal Planning

There are many factors to consider when planning a menu and it may seem a difficult and daunting task, especially when tackling it for the first time. Begin by thinking about the people you are cooking for and what type of dishes they might enjoy. I like to give people one ingredient that perhaps they haven’t tried before. However, it is important to think about availability, to make sure that you don’t spend too much time running about trying to find particular ingredients. Always check the dietary requirements of your guests to make sure that you are catering for everyone. That said, I often make an extra dish or two, just in case there’s an allergy or food dislike that I’m not aware of.

For the best flavour, choose your dishes based on seasonality; if you are unsure, visit your local farmers’ market and ask the growers what produce is at its best.

Think about which dishes can be made in advance or even prepared and frozen beforehand. When entertaining at home I aim to have at least one course made in advance – usually the dessert. Many dishes can also be prepared up to a certain stage and then kept covered in the fridge until needed. Just make sure that you allow everything to come back to room temperature before cooking or serving it.

Try to get a good balance in your menu and avoid overlap ingredients. It is also important not to make too many of the dishes overly rich and heavy; although they will be delicious, your guests will start to struggle. » Devise a time plan for the evening and make a note of how long different things need in the oven. This stops you from becoming flustered once your guests arrive and allows you to enjoy the evening and take part in the chat!

If you are nervous, perhaps try out the dishes on close friends and family first. The less pressure you have on your shoulders the better, and the more likely everyone is to have a good night. Once you have mastered a dish, then you can build on it and take it to the next level. The most important thing to remember when entertaining is to relax and enjoy it!

10 Chef’s Tricks

Like anything else, cooking takes patience and practice. Even though I’ve been cooking for years, I’m always discovering new ways to make my job that little bit easier, or working out how to fix things when they go wrong. Here are ten of my most useful tips and secrets.

If you taste a casserole, soup or sauce and it is too salty, try adding a handful of raw potato cubes, and allow them to cook over a gentle heat. They will soak up the excess salt and can then be removed with a slotted spoon before serving.

To get the fat to separate instantly from delicious roasting juices, add a handful of ice cubes, then quickly skim off the fat that rises to the top. This method works best if you pour the juices into a heatproof jug first.

Cover large joints of meat with foil, shiny side inwards, before cooking to prevent them from over-browning while in the oven.

I normally fry meat and fish in a mixture of oil and butter as the butter gives flavour and the oil stops the butter from burning.

If your homemade mayonnaise begins to split or curdle, try adding a tablespoon of warm water and give it a good whisk.

If a béchamel sauce becomes lumpy, simply blitz with a hand-held blender until smooth.

Once cooked, quickly refresh pasta under cold running water to prevent further cooking. This is particularly important when making a pasta salad or gratin.

To prevent a pastry case from shrinking away from the sides of the tin while cooking, try to leave the pastry-lined tin in the fridge for at least 30 minutes before putting in the oven. It is also worth being gentle when rolling out, and don’t overstretch the pastry when lining the tin.

When blind baking pastry, I prefer to use foil to line the case rather than baking paper, because you end up with a more even light golden finish. Lightly oil the shiny side of the foil, place it oiled side down on to the pastry and fill with baking beans. Bake for 15-20 minutes.

To make your own vanilla sugar, rinse any used vanilla pods and stick into a jar of caster sugar, then set aside for a couple of weeks before using. (I always buy my vanilla from a website called www.vanillabazaar.com.)

Glossary

Have you ever come across a cooking instruction that you’re not sure about? There are so many terms and techniques in cooking, and not all recipes explain them in detail. But don’t be put off cooking a dish because the recipe uses specialist language – in this glossary I’ve explained some of the most important words and phrases that you’ll need to know.

Al Dente The texture of properly cooked pasta, vegetables and risottos. Literally ‘to the tooth’ (in Italian), it describes the slight resistance in the food when bitten.

Baste To spoon or brush a liquid (such as dripping from the pan, butter, fats or a marinade) over foods during roasting or grilling, to keep moist.

Blanch To parboil by immersing in rapidly boiling water for a few seconds or minutes. Normally used for vegetables such as French beans, sugar snap peas and mangetout. This helps to retain colour and flavour.

Braise A slow cooking method used for cuts of meat that are too tough to roast. It is also good for some vegetables. A pan or casserole with a tight-fitting lid should be used so that very little liquid is lost through evaporation. The meat is first browned, then cooked on a bed of roughly chopped vegetables (often called a ‘mirepoix’), with just enough liquid to cover the vegetables. It can be cooked in the oven or on the hob.

Caramelise To heat (under a grill, in a pan or using a chef’s blowtorch) so that the natural sugars in the food burn slightly and go brown. Sugar can also be sprinkled on food to create this effect, as in crème brulée.

Coulis Fruit that is sweetened with sugar and thinned with water, then puréed to form a fruit sauce or decoration for desserts.

Court-bouillon Flavoured liquid used for poaching fish. Made from water and wine or wine vinegar, with herbs and vegetables for flavouring.

Dauphinoise To cook ‘à la Dauphinoise’ means to bake in a slow oven with cream and garlic. A gratin dauphinoise is a classic dish of thinly sliced potatoes cooked with garlic, cream, milk, butter and often Gruyère cheese – rich, but delicious! Serve alongside meat or vegetable dishes.

Deglaze To loosen the sediment from the bottom of a pan by heating a little stock, wine or other liquid, along with cooking juices left in the pan after roasting or sautéing meat, and stirring with a wooden spoon.

Dice To cut into very small cubes of similar size and shape.

Dredge To coat food with flour or another powdered ingredient.

Flambé To flavour a dish with alcohol, usually brandy or rum, which is then ignited so that the actual alcohol content is burnt off, leaving the flavour behind. This can be done with a lighter, although chefs tend to simply tilt the pan and use the flame of the gas! Take great care!!

Fold To gently blend two mixtures, releasing as little air as possible. Cut through the mixture with a spatula or whisk, from bottom to top, rotating the bowl constantly, until thoroughly mixed.

Fondant A classic, restaurant method of cooking potato, producing a deliciously rich and buttery potato dish. Also a baked dessert which is cake-like on the outside but soft in the centre.

Gelatine An unflavoured substance that gives body to mousses and desserts, and aids setting. Available in leaves or powdered form. Traditional forms are not suitable for vegetarians, though some versions now are. A good alternative is agar agar, which is now more widely available from good health food shops. Simply follow the instructions on the packet.

Hull To remove the tough part of fruit under the stalk (e.g. strawberries).

Marinade / To Marinate A marinade is an acidic-based liquid mixture combining various seasonings, used to flavour and tenderise (particularly meat). To marinate meat, either brush food with the mixture or immerse in it and leave for at least 1-3 hours but preferably overnight.

Poach To cook very gently in liquid kept just below boiling point.

Purée To mash until perfectly smooth, either by hand, by pushing through a sieve or by mixing in a food processor or liquidiser.

Reduce To simmer liquid without a lid until much of the moisture evaporates and the sauce has thickened.

Refresh To dip into cold water or run cold water over food that has been parboiled or ‘blanched’ in hot water. This stops food from cooking any further and keeps a good colour.

Rind Thin outer coloured layer of a citrus fruit’s skin. Can be removed with a special zester, a vegetable peeler or a box grater. Also the outer skin on bacon or cheese, which is normally removed.

Sauté To cook gently in a small amount of oil and butter in a pan over a low heat. The butter gives the flavour and the oil prevents it from burning. Also used to give the food a nice golden brown colour.

Seal To brown food very quickly on all sides to seal in juices and flavour, and to improve appearance and colour.

Seasoning A mixture of three parts salt to one part ground black pepper.

Simmer To keep a liquid or sauce at a point just below boiling, so that small bubbles rise slowly to the surface, breaking before they reach it.

Sweat To cook slowly in oil, butter or a mixture of both.

Syrup Sugar dissolved in liquid (usually water) over a medium heat.

Wilt To cook until limp, especially soft leaf vegetables such as spinach, rocket and pak choi.

Bread
MacNean White Bread

We serve this bread in the restaurant at the start of every meal. The basic recipe can be adapted in many ways – try adding to the dough up to 10 tablespoons of chopped fresh mixed soft herbs, such as flat-leaf parsley, basil and chives. Or add 4 tablespoons of Sun-dried Tomato Pesto (see page 208) along with a teaspoon of fennel seeds. Alternatively, spread the dough with Red Onion Marmalade (see page 209) before cooking.

Makes two 450g(1lb) loaves

700g (1 ‘Alb) strong unbleached white flour, plus extra for dusting

2 x 7g sachets of easy blend dried yeast

25g (1oz) caster sugar 1 tsp salt

olive oil, for oiling

1 egg beaten with 1 tbsp water

butter, to serve

You can make the dough in a food mixer or by hand. To make in a food mixer, place the flour in the bowl of the machine, and use the the dough hook attachment. Add the yeast, 450ml (16fl oz) lukewarm water, sugar and salt. Switch on the machine and mix until you have a very sloppy dough. Then knead on medium speed for 6-8 minutes until the dough becomes slightly sticky but pliable.

Alternatively, to make the bread by hand, place the flour in a large mixing bowl. Add the yeast, lukewarm water and salt and mix with your fingers for 2-3 minutes to incorporate the flour, scraping the sides of the bowl and folding the dough over itself until it gathers into a rough mass. Turn the dough out on to a well-floured work surface; lightly flour your hands. Knead for 6-8 minutes using the heel of your hand, until the dough is smooth and pliable. The dough will be very sticky at first; keep your hands and the work surface lightly floured, using a dough scraper if necessary to prevent it from sticking and building up on the work surface. As you continue kneading, the dough will become more elastic and easier to handle.

Shape the dough into a loose ball, then place in an oiled bowl and cover with cling film. Leave to rise for 1 hour until doubled in size.

Lightly oil two 450g (1lb) loaf tins. Knock back the risen dough by punching it lightly with a clenched fist to knock out trapped bubbles, then turn it out again on to a lightly floured surface and knead for 2-3 minutes until it becomes springy and very smooth. Divide the dough into two even-sized pieces and shape each into a rectangle using the length of the tin as a rough guide. Place in the prepared tins, smoothing down the tops and leave to prove (increase in size) for another 10 minutes until slightly risen.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4. Brush the tops of the loaves with the beaten egg mixture. Bake for 45 minutes until the loaves are a deep golden brown and sound hollow when tipped out of the tins and tapped on the bottom. Return to the tins and leave for 5 minutes on a heatproof surface, then transfer the bread to a wire rack and allow to cool completely before slicing.

To serve, cut the bread into slices and arrange in a bread basket with a pot of butter. Wrap any remaining bread in cling film and store in a bread bin or dark cupboard for 1-2 days.

1. Dough before being covered

2. After 1 hour: doubled in size

3. Knocking back the dough

4. Kneading with heel of hand

Multi Seed Wheaten Bread

This is the first thing we make every morning at the restaurant. Guests who have stayed overnight can wake up to the smell wafting around the house. The bread is delicious sprinkled with a couple of tablespoons of sesame seeds or sunflower seeds before baking. If you don’t have any buttermilk to hand, add the juice of a lemon to the same quantity of fresh milk and leave overnight before using.

Makes two 900g(2lb) loaves

rapeseed or sunflower oil, for oiling

450g (lib) plain flour, plus extra for dusting

450g (1 lb) coarse wholemeal flour

2 tsp bicarbonate of soda

2 tsp salt

100g (4oz) wheat bran

100g (4oz) mixed seeds, such as linseed, sunflower, sesame and poppy seeds

50g (2oz) butter

2 tbsp golden syrup

2 tbsp demerara sugar

1 litre (1% pints) buttermilk, plus a little extra if necessary

butter, to serve

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4 and lightly oil two 900g (2lb) loaf tins.

Sift the flours, bicarbonate of soda and salt into a large bowl. Tip the bran left in the sieve into the bowl and stir in with the wheat bran and all but 1 tablespoon of the seeds (reserve them for the top). Rub the butter in with your fingertips until evenly dispersed.

Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients and add the golden syrup, demerara sugar and the buttermilk. Using a large spoon, mix gently and quickly until you have achieved a fairly wet dropping consistency, making sure there are no pockets of flour remaining.

Divide the mixture evenly between the prepared loaf tins, spreading it evenly and smoothing the tops with the back of a spoon. Sprinkle over the reserved tablespoon of the seeds. Bake for hours until well risen and cracked on the top and so that a skewer comes out clean when inserted in the centre.

To check the loaves are properly cooked, tip each one out of the tin and tap the base. It should sound hollow. Return to the tin and allow to cool for about 5 minutes on a heatproof surface before tipping out on to a wire rack and leaving to cool completely.

This bread is best eaten on the day it is made. To serve, place on a bread board and cut into slices at the table. Hand around with a separate pot of butter.

Mediterranean Gluten-free Bread
Makes one 900g(2lb) loaf

olive oil, for oiling

600g (lib 6oz) gluten-free flour

½ tsp salt

2 tsp bicarbonate of soda

300g (11oz) soya bran

150g (5oz) light muscovado sugar

3 eggs

100ml (3½fl oz) Sun-dried Tomato Pesto (see page 208)

1 litre (1¾ pints) buttermilk

1 tbsp sesame seeds

butter, to serve

I’ve always had a tremendous response when I’ve served gluten-free recipes and this excellent recipe came from a pastry chef at Killybegs College, Noleen Boyle, who is coeliac herself. Don’t be surprised that it has a slightly different texture to ordinary bread. It stays fresh for about 2 days, so if you want to keep it for any longer cut into slices and freeze, then place in the oven to thaw out (for 8-10 minutes at 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4) or use a toaster. Gluten-free flour is now available from all major supermarkets and health food shops or can be bought online.

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4. Lightly oil a 900g (2lb) loaf tin.

Sift the flour into a large mixing bowl with the salt and bicarbonate of soda, then stir in the soya bran and sugar.

Place the eggs, Sun-dried Tomato Pesto and buttermilk in a jug and mix well to combine.

Make a well in centre of the dry ingredients and pour in the buttermilk mixture, mixing to combine. Spoon the mixture into the oiled loaf tin and smooth the surface, using the back of a spoon. Sprinkle the sesame seeds on top.

Bake the bread for 1 hour until golden brown and crusty on top. Tip briefly from the tin and tap the base of the loaf to check it is cooked – it should sound hollow. Return to the tin and leave for 5 minutes on a heatproof surface, then turn the bread out on to a wire rack and allow to cool completely.

Once the bread has cooled down completely, place on a bread board and cut into slices at the table. Serve with butter.

Walnut & Fig Bread

This is a delicious breakfast bread and also makes a lovely sandwich filled with creamy blue cheese and rocket. Also try with Chicken Liver Pâté with Fig Jam (see page 83) or Red Onion Marmalade (see page 209). I find that it toasts very well after a day or two.

Makes 2 round loaves

550g (lib 3‘/20z) strong plain white flour, plus extra for dusting

1 tsp salt

50g (2oz) butter, diced and chilled

7g sachet of easy blend dried yeast

100g (4oz) walnuts, roughly chopped

50g (2oz) dried ready-to-eat figs, finely chopped

sunflower oil, for oiling

butter, to serve

Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl. Rub in the butter until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Stir in the yeast, walnuts and figs until evenly combined.

Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients and then pour in 350ml (12fl oz) lukewarm water. Quickly mix to a smooth dough, then turn out on to a lightly floured work surface and knead for 10 minutes until smooth and elastic. Place in an oiled bowl, cover with oiled cling film and leave to rise in a warm place for about 1 hour or until doubled in size.

Knock the dough back by punching it lightly with a clenched fist, then divide it in half, shaping each piece into a smooth round. Put on baking sheets lined with non-stick baking paper and cover each one with a damp tea towel. Leave to rise again in a warm place for about 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), gas mark 7. Remove the damp tea towel from the loaves and slash the tops 4-5 times with a sharp knife. Bake for 10 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 190°C (375°F), gas mark 5 and bake for another 25-30 minutes, swapping the sheets on the oven shelves halfway through cooking.

When cooked, the loaves should sound hollow if tapped on the bottom. Transfer to a wire rack and allow to cool completely. The bread can be wrapped in cling film and stored in a bread bin for 1-2 days.

To serve, arrange a loaf on a bread board and cut into slices at the table. Serve with butter.

Cheddar & Spring Onion White Soda Bread

This is a delicious variation on a classic Irish recipe. Experiment with other flavourings such as finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes or crispy pieces of smoked bacon. If you don’t have buttermilk, use fresh milk mixed with the juice of a lemon, and leave overnight before using.

Makes one 15 cm (6in) round loaf

450g (lib) plain flour, plus extra for dusting

1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

l tsp salt

100g (4oz) strong Cheddar, grated

4 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped

350ml (12fl oz) buttermilk, plus a little extra if necessary

Preheat the oven to 230°C (450°F), gas mark 8. Sift the flour, bicarbonate of soda and salt into a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients and stir in the Cheddar and spring onions, then add the buttermilk. Using a large spoon, mix gently and quickly until you have achieved a nice soft dough. Add a little bit more buttermilk if necessary until the dough binds together without being sloppy.

Knead the dough very lightly on a lightly floured work surface and shape into a round of roughly 15cm (6in). Place on a non-stick baking sheet and cut a deep cross in the top. Bake for 15 minutes.

Reduce the oven temperature to 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6 and bake the loaf for another 20-25 minutes or until it is evenly golden and crusty. It should sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. If it doesn’t, return to the oven for another 5 minutes.

Transfer the cooked soda bread to a wire rack and allow to cool for about 20 minutes. This bread is best eaten while it is still warm, as it doesn’t store well. To serve, place the soda bread on a bread board and cut into slices at the table.

Variation Brown Soda Bread

Make as above but use 350g (12oz) plain flour mixed with 100g (4oz) coarse, stoneground wholemeal flour. Add 2 tablespoons of pinhead oatmeal to the mix before adding the buttermilk.

Red Onion, Olive & Rosemary Focaccia

This savoury Italian bread is made much like pizza. Semi sun-dried tomatoes or strips of roasted peppers also work well on top. This dough can be made even more easily in a food mixer.

Makes one 28 x 18cm (11 x 7in) loaf

7 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for oiling and drizzling

1 tsp easy blend dried yeast

450g (1lb) strong plain white flour, plus extra for dusting

1¼ tsp sea salt

1 large red onion, halved and cut into slices (keep them attached at the root)

100g (4oz) pitted black olives

1 sprig of rosemary, leaves stripped

salt and black pepper

Oil a 28 x 18 x 4cm (11 x 7 x 1½in) baking tin and line with nonstick baking paper. Mix the yeast, flour and ½ teaspoon of salt in a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the centre and pour in 225ml (8fl oz) lukewarm water and 5 tablespoons of olive oil. Mix well to form a soft dough, then turn out on to a lightly floured work surface and knead for 10 minutes until smooth and elastic. Place in an oiled mixing bowl, cover with oiled cling film and leave to rise in a warm place for about 1 hour or until doubled in size.

Turn the dough out on to a lightly floured surface and knock it back, punching lightly to knock out air bubbles, then knead for another 2-3 minutes. Roll out to a large rectangle about 1cm (½in) in thickness. Place in the prepared tin. Cover with oiled cling film and leave to rise again for 30 minutes – it should look soft and pillowy.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), gas mark 7. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small roasting tin and toss in the red onion. Season with salt and pepper and spread in an even layer, then roast for 15-20 minutes until just tender but not coloured.

Prick the risen dough all over with a fork. Stud with the olives, fan out the red onions on top, then scatter with the rosemary and the rest of the salt, and drizzle with the remaining olive oil. Bake for about 30 minutes until risen, cooked through and golden brown. Don’t worry that the onions will have tinged at the edges.

Leave in the tin for a few minutes, then turn out on to a wire rack to cool and drizzle with a little extra olive oil to keep the crust soft. Cut into chunks to serve. This is best served warm but also reheats well in a low oven or is fine when cold. To store, allow to cool, wrap in cling film and store in a bread bin for 1-2 days.

Tomato & Parmesan Twister Bread Rolls
Makes 24 rolls

For the dough

1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for oiling

350g (12oz) strong plain bread flour, plus extra for dusting

1 tsp salt

7g sachet of easy blend dried yeast 1 egg beaten with 1 tbsp milk

For the filling

200g (7oz) Tomato Sauce (see page 214)

125g (4½oz) Pesto (see page 208)

75g (3oz) freshly grated Parmesan cheese

These bread rolls are easy to make and taste so much better than any you can buy in the shops. You can vary the fillings – try sun-dried tomato paste, tapenade, red onion marmalade, finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes or different cheeses – but go light on them or the fillings may burn while they are cooking. Turn the page for step-by-step pictures.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6. Lightly oil two 12-hole muffin tins.

Sift the flour into a large mixing bowl with the salt and stir in the dried yeast. Make a well in the centre and pour in the olive oil and 300ml (11fl oz) lukewarm water. Mix to a smooth dough.

Turn the dough out on to a lightly floured work surface and knead for 5-10 minutes, pushing and stretching the dough until smooth and elastic. Alternatively, use a food mixer with the dough hook attached and set on a low speed.

Place the dough in a large, lightly oiled bowl. Cover with a clean tea towel and leave in a warm place for 1 hour until the dough has almost doubled in size.

Knock the risen dough back, punching it lightly to knock out large air bubbles and knead it briefly on a lightly floured work surface. With a rolling pin, roll out the dough into a large rectangle, approximately 55 x 35cm (22 x 14in). Using a palette knife, spread over the tomato sauce and then spread the pesto on top. Sprinkle over the Parmesan cheese. Then, starting from one of the long edges, gently roll the dough away from you into a long Swiss roll shape. Don’t worry if it sticks a little, just gently coax it up a bit at a time with floured fingers until it reaches the other side and then press the seam together to stick. »

Cut the roll into 4cm (1½in) thick slices and place in the tin, one in each muffin hole, with one of the cut sides facing down. Brush the tops lightly with the beaten egg mixture and leave them to rise in a warm place for another 10 minutes or until doubled in size.

Bake the rolls for 20-25 minutes, swapping the tins on the shelves halfway through, until cooked through and golden brown. Leave the rolls in the muffin tins for a couple of minutes and then loosen them from the tins with a knife and slide out on to a wire rack. Serve warm or allow to cool completely.

To serve, pile the rolls into a bread basket and place on the table. These are best eaten warm on the day they are made, or you can freeze in an airtight container for 1 month. To thaw, wrap in foil and bake in the oven at 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4, for 8-10 minutes.

1. Roll the dough into a rectangle

2. Spread with fillings

3. Roll up the dough

4. Cut into slices and place in tin

Canapés, Soups & Starters
Sticky Beef Skewers

These moreish skewers are shown in the picture on pages 58-9. For hassle-free canapés, most of the preparation can be done in advance. You can marinate the beef up to a day beforehand and store uncooked in an airtight container in the fridge. Soak the skewers in cold water for at least 30 minutes before use (this prevents them burning during cooking) and then skewer the beef up to 12 hours in advance.

Makes 20

2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

3 tbsp runny honey

1 tbsp sweet chilli sauce

1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

1 tbsp dark soy sauce

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

1 tsp whole grain mustard

450g (1lb) sirloin steak, trimmed of any fat and cut into thin strips

Garlic and Chive Mayonnaise, to serve (see page 209)

Place the garlic in a large, shallow non-metallic dish and add the honey, sweet chilli sauce, Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, balsamic vinegar and mustard. Mix until well combined. Thread the sirloin strips on to twenty 10cm (4in) soaked bamboo skewers and add the marinade, turning to coat. Cover with cling film and chill in the fridge for at least 6 hours, or for up to 24 hours.

Preheat the grill to medium. Drain the beef skewers, reserving any remaining marinade, and arrange on a grill rack. Cook for 5-6 minutes until cooked through and well caramelised, turning once.

Meanwhile, place the reserved marinade in a small pan and allow it to simmer over a medium heat until it is thick and syrupy and reduced by half. Stir in any cooking juices from the grill pan and then brush the sauce over the cooked beef skewers.

Arrange the sticky beef skewers on a large warmed platter around a bowl of Garlic and Chive Mayonnaise, for dipping.

Sausage Rolls with Sesame Seeds
Makes 40

25g(1oz) butter

2 tbsp finely diced onion

3 eggs

450g (1 lb) good-quality sausage meat

2 tbsp sweet chilli sauce 1 tbsp chopped fresh basil

1 tbsp double cream

500g (1lb 2oz) ready-rolled puff pastry, thawed if frozen

plain flour, for dusting

2 tbsp sesame seeds

salt and freshly ground black pepper

This is classic party food! These are ideal to prepare in advance as they can be frozen uncooked for up to one month. Layer between sheets of non-stick baking paper in a plastic rigid container and secure with a lid before freezing. Even more convenient, they can be cooked straight from frozen – simply increase the cooking time by about 10 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), gas mark 7. Melt the butter in a frying pan and sauté the onion over a medium heat for about 5 minutes until softened but not browned. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Break two eggs into a food processor or liquidiser and add the sausage meat, sweet chilli sauce, basil and cream. Blend for 2 minutes until smooth, then scrape out into a bowl and stir in the cooked onions. Season with salt and pepper and spoon the mixture into a piping bag fitted with a 2cm (¾in) plain nozzle. Chill in the fridge for at least 30 minutes to firm up a little.

Beat the remaining egg in a small bowl with a pinch of salt and set aside to use for glazing. Roll the puff pastry out on a lightly floured surface to a 40 x 30cm (16 x 12in) rectangle and then cut into four strips, each measuring 30 x 10cm (12 x 4in). Pipe the sausage meat mixture in a fairly thick line down the centre of each pastry strip and brush along one long edge of the pastry with a little of the beaten egg. Roll up to enclose and press down the edges firmly to seal.

Brush the four large sausage rolls with the remaining beaten egg and sprinkle lightly with the sesame seeds. Cut each roll into 2.5cm (1in) lengths, wiping the knife each time to clean off the sausage meat and arrange on two large baking sheets lined with non-stick baking paper. Bake for 15 minutes or until crisp and golden. Arrange on a warmed platter to serve.

Sesame Prawn Toasts

A Chinese takeaway favourite, these are shown in the picture on page 58. They are so easy to make – simply whiz the prawn mixture in a food processor before spreading on the bread. It is best to use bread that is a couple of days old, so that it has dried out slightly and is not too doughy. I like to serve these with a dipping sauce, but they are also great with just a squeeze of lime.

Makes 24

For the prawn toasts

225g (8oz) peeled raw prawns, cleaned

1 egg white

1 tsp cornflour

1 tsp fresh lemon juice

1 tsp dark soy sauce

1 tsp sweet chilli sauce

1 small garlic clove, peeled and crushed

½ tsp freshly grated root ginger

1 tsp Dijon mustard

6 slices of 1-2 day-old white bread (see recipe introduction)

4 tbsp sesame seeds

vegetable oil, for deep-frying

For the dipping sauce

6 tbsp light soy sauce

2 tbsp runny honey

1 tsp toasted sesame oil

1 tbsp sweet chilli sauce

To make the dipping sauce, place the soy sauce in a small bowl and stir in the honey, sesame oil and sweet chilli sauce. Cover with cling film. This will keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

Place the prawns in a food processor or blender with the egg white, cornflour, lemon juice, soy sauce, sweet chilli sauce, garlic, ginger and mustard. Blend to form a smooth paste. This can be made up to 24 hours in advance.

Spread the prawn paste over the bread slices (avoiding the edges as the crusts will be trimmed off later) and sprinkle the sesame seeds evenly over each slice, pressing them down gently with your fingertips. Arrange the slices of prawn-topped bread on a baking sheet or plastic tray, then cover with cling film and chill for up to 1 hour.

Preheat the vegetable oil to 180°C (350°F) in a deep-fat fryer or a large, deep-sided saucepan. Deep-fry the toasts in batches for about minutes on each side or until golden. Drain on kitchen paper and then cut off the crusts and cut each slice into four triangles. Cover loosely with foil, to keep warm, while the remaining toasts are being cooked.

Arrange the sesame prawn toasts on warmed plates or on one large serving platter with small bowls of the dipping sauce to serve.

Salt Cod Fritters

Salt cod is available from fishmongers, large supermarkets and some ethnic shops and needs to be soaked in cold water before use. Anhour or two should suffice if only lightly salted, or up to 24 hours if very dried out. If in doubt, check with your fishmonger or follow the packet instructions. The fritters are shown with the canapés on page 58, and are also delicious as part of a smoked fish platter.

Makes 20

450g (1 lb) potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

150g (5oz) salt cod, soaked (see recipe introduction)

olive oil, for cooking

1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped

1 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 egg, lightly beaten

plain flour, for dusting

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Aïoli, to serve (see page 209)

Cook the potatoes, covered, in a saucepan of boiling salted water for 15-20 minutes until tender. Drain well, mash until smooth and set aside.

Poach the soaked salt cod in a small pan, with just enough water to cover, for about 10 minutes, then drain and roughly flake the flesh, removing all the skin and bones. Place in a large bowl.

Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a small frying pan over a medium heat and cook the onion and garlic for about 5 minutes until soft but not browned. Stir the cooked onion and garlic, the flaked salt cod, parsley and egg into the mashed potatoes, mix to combine and season with black pepper. Taste the mixture at this stage to see if you need to season it with salt – you may not need any depending on how salty the fish is.

With floured hands, shape the mixture into twenty small balls. Flatten the balls slightly into 5cm (2in) round patties about 1cm (½in) thick. Arrange the patties on a large flat plate and cover with cling film. Chill in the fridge for about 30 minutes to allow the mixture to firm up a little.

Heat a thin film of olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the fritters in batches for 2-3 minutes on each side until crisp and golden brown. Drain the fritters briefly on kitchen paper and cover loosely with foil to keep warm while you cook the remainder.

Serve the fritters with a bowl of Aïoli on a large, warmed platter.

Spanakopita

These tasty morsels remind me of holidays on the Greek islands. Look out for authentic Greek filo pastry, a far superior product to the regular filo that you get in most supermarkets.

Makes 24

1 tbsp olive oil

1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped

250g (9oz) spinach, thick stalks removed and leaves finely shredded

75g (3oz) feta cheese

1 small egg

1 tsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese

pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

2 tsp chopped mint

75g (3oz) unsalted butter

275g (10oz) filo pastry, thawed if frozen (about 6 sheets in total)

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4. Heat the oil in a large saucepan and add the onion, then cook gently for 2-3 minutes until softened but not browned. Add the spinach a handful at a time, stirring constantly, until it has all wilted down. Tip into a sieve and drain well, pressing out all the excess liquid with a wooden spoon. Allow to cool.

Crumble the feta cheese into a bowl and then mix in the egg, Parmesan, cooled spinach mixture, nutmeg and mint. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Melt the butter in a small pan and allow to cool a little.

Unroll the sheets of pastry and cut the stack lengthways into strips about 6cm (2½ in) wide. Brush the top layer with melted butter. Place a heaped teaspoonful of the filling in the centre of one strip, at the nearest end to you, and fold one bottom corner of the top layer of pastry diagonally over the filling, so that the corner touches the opposite side to make a triangle. Then fold over the filled triangular corner, and continue folding it along the whole strip into a triangular parcel. Repeat to use all the pastry and filling – you should end up with 24 parcels in total.

Brush the underside of each spanakopita with a little of the melted butter and place on a baking sheet lined with non-stick baking paper. Brush the tops with the rest of the melted butter and bake for 15-20 minutes until crisp and golden brown. Allow to cool for a few minutes before arranging on plates or a large platter to serve.

Sang Choy Bow
Makes about 35

2 tbsp dry sherry

2 tsp cornflour

2 tbsp light soy sauce

4 tbsp hoisin sauce

1 tsp light muscovado sugar

175ml (6fl oz) chicken stock (see page 219)

2 tbsp sunflower oil

3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

6 spring onions, trimmed and thinly sliced, green separated from white

450g (1 lb) minced chicken

225g tin of water chestnuts, drained and finely chopped

3 tbsp chopped coriander

4 little gem lettuces, broken into individual leaves (see recipe introduction)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Sang Choy Bow are bite-sized pieces of food wrapped in lettuce before eating. Variations can be found in most Chinese restaurants. The secret to making them is to prepare all of the ingredients well in advance. I normally use the smaller inner crisp leaves of little gem lettuce but you could use iceberg lettuce or chicory leaves. Break the leaves into similar sizes, place in a plastic bag and keep in the fridge until you need them.

Place the sherry in a small bowl and stir in the cornflour to form a smooth paste. Stir in the soy sauce, hoisin sauce, sugar and chicken stock until well combined. This sauce can be made in advance and chilled for up to 24 hours until needed.

Heat the sunflower oil in a wok or large frying pan over a medium heat. Stir-fry the garlic and the whites of the spring onions for 2-3 minutes until softened and just turning golden. Increase the heat to high, add the minced chicken and fry for about 5 minutes until just cooked through and beginning to brown, breaking up the chicken using the back of a spoon to ensure there are no big lumps. Add the water chestnuts and cook for a further 1-2 minutes.

Push the mixture to one side and then pour the prepared sauce into the wok, stirring until it boils and thickens. This will take 1-2 minutes. When the liquid is bubbling and thickened stir in the chicken mixture and mix well to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste and stir in the green of the spring onions along with the coriander.

Arrange the lettuce leaves on a large serving platter. Spoon a small amount of the warm chicken mixture on to each lettuce leaf. Wrap up and eat with your hands.

Black Pudding Croûtes with Red Onion Marmalade

This canapé is not as unusual as it sounds! Black pudding is often served as a tapas dish in Spain, where it is known as morcilla, and is usually homemade from a family recipe that has been passed down over many generations. Don’t be tempted to make these too far in advance or the croûtes will go soggy.

Makes 30

1 French stick, cut on the diagonal into 30 evenly sized slices (ends discarded)

4 tbsp olive oil

450g (1 lb) black pudding, cut on the diagonal into 30 evenly sized slices

100g (4oz) Red Onion Marmalade (see page 209)

flat-leaf parsley sprigs, to garnish

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6. Arrange the French bread slices on large baking sheets in a single layer. Brush 2 tablespoons of the oil on the bread slices and bake for 6-8 minutes until the bread is pale golden and crisp. Allow to cool slightly.

Heat the remaining olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the black pudding slices over a medium heat for 1 minute on each side until cooked through. You may need to do this in batches. Drain on kitchen paper.

Place a piece of black pudding on each croûte and top with a small spoonful of Red Onion Marmalade. Arrange on a large platter, garnish each canapé with a little parsley and serve at once.

Parma Ham & Rocket Rolls
Makes 20

150g (5oz) ricotta cheese

2 tbsp Pesto (see page 208)

10 slices of Parma ham

50g (2oz) wild rocket, stalks removed

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Shown on page 59, these are very simple but look and taste quite special. They can be made an hour in advance and kept in the fridge until you are ready to eat them. When cutting the Parma ham, don’t worry if each slice is not perfect, you can neaten them up as you roll them. A great alternative to Parma ham is bresaola – very thin slices of air-dried, salted beef.

Mix the ricotta with the pesto in a small bowl and season generously with salt and pepper.

Carefully cut each slice of Parma ham in half across the width and arrange on a clean work surface. Spread a heaped teaspoon of the ricotta mixture in a thin even layer over each one, then lay a few sprigs of rocket lengthways across each slice, leaving the sprig ends hanging over the edges.

Roll each one up and arrange on a serving platter. Cover loosely with cling film and place in the fridge until you are ready to serve.

Pumpkin & Haricot Bean Soup

Haricot or cannellini beans work best for this – use the freshest you can find or they can take an age to cook. As this recipe makes such a large quantity you may wish to freeze some. Allow the soup to cool and then pour into freezer bags or containers with lids (leave enough space for expansion). To thaw the soup, leave overnight at room temperature and reheat until piping hot.

Serves 10-12

Vegetarian (if vegetable stock is used)

275g(10oz) dried white haricot beans, soaked overnight in cold water

2 tbsp finely chopped sage

4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

2 fresh bay leaves

2 thyme sprigs

2kg (4½lb) pumpkin or butternut squash

3 tbsp olive oil

2 onions, peeled and finely chopped

2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped

2 celery sticks, finely chopped

3 litres (5 pints) vegetable or chicken stock (see pages 218— 19)

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pesto, to garnish (see page 208)

rustic crusty bread, to serve

Drain the soaked beans and place in a large saucepan with plenty of cold water. Bring to the boil and boil fast for 15 minutes.

Drain the beans and rinse thoroughly in cold running water. Return the beans to the saucepan and cover them with 5cm (2in) of fresh water. Add half the sage, half the garlic, the bay leaves and thyme sprigs to the pan and bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour or until the beans are tender, topping up with boiling water if necessary. Drain and rinse briefly, discarding the bay leaves and thyme sprigs.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 230°C (450°F), gas mark 8. Cut the pumpkin or squash into wedges, not more than 7.5cm (3in) thick and scoop out the seeds using a large spoon. Brush all over using 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, place them in a large roasting tin and season generously with salt and pepper. Roast on a high shelf in the oven, for about 45 minutes or until softened and caramelised, turning once.

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the remaining sage and garlic, the onions, carrots and celery and cook for 10-15 minutes until soft but not browned, stirring occasionally. Pour in the stock and bring to the boil, then season with salt and pepper and simmer for 10-15 minutes until the vegetables are completely tender and softened. »

Allow the roasted pumpkin or squash to cool, then scoop away the flesh and discard the skin – you should have about 1kg (2lb 2oz) in total. Add to the saucepan and simmer for another 15-20 minutes until the pumpkin is tender and has started to break down. Whiz the soup to a purée with a hand-held blender or in batches in a food processor, then add the cooked beans, season with salt and pepper to taste and reheat gently.

To serve, ladle the soup into warmed bowls and top each serving with a teaspoonful of pesto. Serve hot with some crusty bread.

Carrot, Ginger & Honey Soup

I love everything about this soup – it’s really simple to make, the ingredients cost very little, the flavours are gorgeous and it ends up the most fantastic vibrant orange colour.

Serves 6—8

Vegetarian

75g (3oz) unsalted butter

1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced

20g (¾oz) root ginger, peeled and finely chopped

700g (1½lb) carrots, grated

1 tbsp runny honey

1 tsp fresh lemon juice

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground white pepper

lightly whipped cream and snipped chives, to garnish

Melt the butter in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion and ginger and cook gently for 8-10 minutes until soft but not browned, stirring occasionally. Stir in the grated carrots, honey and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste.

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