My Kitchen
James Martin

Table of Contents

Cover Page

Title Page

Introduction

Spring

Spring onion potato cakes with fried duck eggs

Cream of Jerusalem artichoke soup with bacon

Frisée, radish and orange salad

Bibb lettuce salad with radishes

Montgomery cheese balls with rosemary

Seared sea bass with blood orange and spring onion salad

Dill-marinated salmon with lime and rhubarb salad

Grilled halibut with champ and lemon caper butter

Mackerel with caramelised radishes

Cod with clams, curly kale and wild garlic

Trout with green beans and almonds

Wok-fried chicken with ginger, chilli and wild garlic

Sautéed chicken livers and mushrooms on toast

Rack of lamb with vegetable broth

Lamb, mint and Little Gem salad

Côte de boeuf with watercress and black beer mustard

Black beer mustard

Juniper-pickled cucumbers

Sliced Yorkshire ham with poached leeks and spring onions

Scotch eggs with curried salad cream

Pressed ham terrine

Rhubarb and ginger syllabub

Orange cheesecake with roasted rhubarb

Crème caramel with strawberries

Pancakes with pistachio gremolata

Baked Alaska with elderflower meringue

Elderflower fritters with maple syrup

Elderflower and lemon cordial

Summer

Pea soup with Little Gem and marjoram

Sweetcorn soup with crab and basil cream

Deep-fried tomato fritters with red onion salad

Tomato, basil and mozzarella pizzas

Slow-roasted tomatoes with Worcestershire sauce

Soused herrings with red chilli and chive cream

Smoked haddock, globe artichoke and lemon risotto

Scallop and squid salad with fennel and rocket

Spicy crab linguini

Grilled sardines with panzanella

Classic chicken chasseur

Sticky chicken wings

Cold chicken breast with warm red onion and grape salad

Chicken with peach and watercress

Beef and fennel koftas

Lemon and rosemary lamb with tahini aubergines

Marinated loin of lamb with warm figs, coriander and honey

Potted salt beef with gherkins

Spatchcock duck with spicy tamarind glaze

Chargrilled rabbit loin with sweetcorn and chilli relish

Pork spare ribs with coleslaw, star anise and whisky glaze

Pan-fried pork fillet with smoky tomato sauce

Poached cherries with almond glaze

Black cherry brownies

Eggy croissants with fresh raspberries and zabaglione

Oven-roasted apricots with honey madeleines

Lemon verbena cake with strawberries and cream

Teacakes with warm strawberries and clotted cream

Spiced redcurrant jelly

Sweet and sour pickled plums

Autumn

Pumpkin soup with chestnut cream

Hazelnut-coated goat’s cheese with lemon and beetroot salad

Cromer crab toastie

Scrambled duck eggs with crispy bacon and watercress

Marinated mackerel with horseradish and crusty bread

Pan-fried lemon sole with clams, coriander and tomato

Herb-crusted cod with spicy cauliflower cheese

Smoked haddock, leek and mascarpone tart

Salmon and pumpkin risotto

Pot-roasted chicken with pumpkin, sage and star anise

Pan-fried chicken with Waldorf salad

Fillet of beef with beetroot and parsley

Rib-eye steak with stick fries and Chateaubriand sauce

Pan-fried calf’s liver with cider-battered onion rings

Roasted grouse with potato, celeriac and parsnip rosti

Roast duck breast with sherry vinegar plums

Rabbit casserole with white wine and grapes

Venison with parsnip purée and roast beets

Pheasant breasts with onion purée and sautéed greens

Pork escalopes with wild mushrooms, juniper and mash

Swiss-style hazelnut meringues with coffee cream

Welsh cakes with poached pears

Baked custard tart with mulled spiced plums

Damson clafoutis

Pistachio coffee cake

Sloe jam

Winter

Chunky vegetable soup with cheesy herb toasts

Leek and potato soup with smoked salmon and poached eggs

Onion soup with Lincolnshire Poacher

Gnocchi with winter pesto

Scallops with black pudding and apple puree

Spicy mussels with coconut and lime

Deep-fried cod cheeks in beer batter

Pigeon with fried green cabbage and almonds

Roast turkey with Guinness glaze

Breaded turkey with spinach, walnuts and honeyed parsnips

Beef fillet with bacon, cep purée and Jerusalem artichokes

Braised oxtail with beer and red wine

Beef and shallot hotpot

Sliced duck breast with winter stir-fry

Honey-glazed quail with beetroot, apple and hazelnut salad

Breaded pork chops with celeriac purée and herb spätzle

Pork loin with sherry-roasted parsnips and chestnuts

Mango, coriander and apple chutney

Spiced apple chutney

Caramelised pear and almond strudel

Caramelised quince and Cox apple tart

Christmas pudding ice cream with satsumas and caramel sauce

Four-minute figgy pudding with custard

Hot spiced cranberry punch

Stocks, sauces and dressings

French dressing

Vinaigrette

Mint sauce

Creamed horseradish

Mayonnaise

Quick Hollandaise sauce

Tartar sauce

Chicken stock

Fish stock

Vegetable stock

Supplier list

Acknowledgements

Index

Copyright

About the Publisher

Introduction

“It’s all in a season.” That’s what my granddad used to say to me. A keen gardener, he would to take me to his allotment and greenhouse whenever I went to visit. That was my first real insight into fresh food and where it comes from – before that it had just been microwaved jacket potatoes or steak with onion rings from a Berni Inn. So, I’m sure it was there – right there – aged five, that the seeds were planted in my mind, and I knew I was going to be a cook.

Many people in the UK grow up in urban areas with little or no awareness of where their food comes from and when it is actually in season. In my opinion, this is mainly down to the supermarkets offering the same food week-in, week-out. But the seasons are the planet’s natural cycle and they exist for a reason, so it makes no sense to try and beat them. Think of each changing season as ‘out with the old and in with the new’, welcome the next lot of produce and don’t go searching for out-of-season food. There are so many good reasons to eat what we produce locally, the obvious ones being to support the British farmers, to reduce CO₂ emissions from transport, and above all else to get the best possible taste. You only have to try Jersey Royals or British strawberries to understand what I mean.

In a country obsessed with cheaper and cheaper food, we should take a step back and re-assess. If we want great food on our plates we have to be willing to pay for it. I’m not saying it has to be expensive – we’re still talking pence, not pounds and, in fact, food is at its cheapest when in season – even luxury foods like asparagus. Things are already changing for the better, with people learning more about food from books and TV programmes and paying closer attention to what they are eating. But more can still be done. We just need to get out of the habit of expecting what we want whenever we want it. It has always been my mission to champion the food that’s on our doorstep, and this is exactly the food I cook at home, in my own kitchen.

Those who have their own garden or allotment will always have access to the utmost in fresh produce. They will also know that it’s a great teaching tool for young and old alike, and that growing your own food can be a source of much satisfaction. Most importantly, if we eat seasonal food it will be at its cheapest because of its abundance, and the flavour will be at its best. This book is all about celebrating this island of ours, and the food that grows on it, and the best way I can get you excited about cooking this way in your own home is to give you the recipes I cook in my own throughout the year.

Enjoy,

James

Spring

Radishes • Asparagus • Spring onions • Leeks Jerusalem artichokes • Spinach • Elderflowers Rhubarb • Parsley • Lamb • Sea bass • Salmon

Spring brings a garden to life with the promise of delicious crops to come. In Britain we can enjoy seasonal produce such as wild garlic, Jerusalem artichokes and watercress. Radishes and spring onions push up through the soil and elderflowers fill the hedgerows. Sea bass and salmon are a real treat for seafood lovers, while for meat eaters the end of the season brings with it succulent spring lamb. And I wouldn’t be a true Yorkshireman if I didn’t mention the best bit of all – rhubarb! Harvest from the garden or enjoy the tender pink forced variety, still available at this time of year.

Spring onion potato cakes with fried duck eggs

Serves 4

Vegetarian

4 large floury potatoes, peeled and quartered

½ bunch of spring onions, finely chopped

2 tbsp chopped chives

110g (4oz) flour, for dusting

150ml (5fl oz) olive oil

110g (4oz) butter

4 duck eggs

200g (7oz) watercress

50ml (2fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil

20ml (¾fl oz) white wine vinegar

Salt and black pepper

Potato cakes are excellent as a starter or as a filling snack. They can be prepared in advance and kept in the fridge until needed. Duck eggs are a Saturday Kitchen favourite. Cook them just like hens’ eggs; however, they’re too rich to use in baking.

Place the potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with water and add a good pinch of salt. Bring to the boil and cook for 20–25 minutes, then drain and return to the pan. With the pan on a heatproof surface, mash the potatoes well, then transfer to a large bowl and season with salt and pepper. Mix in the spring onions and chives and divide the mixture into eight balls.

Lightly dust a work surface with flour, place a potato ball on it and shape into a round, flat cake about 1cm (½in) thick and 5cm (2in) wide. Repeat with the rest of the potato and place the finished cakes in the fridge for about an hour to firm up.

Add the olive oil to a non-stick frying pan, dust the potato cakes with flour and fry over a medium heat for 3–4 minutes on each side. Depending on the size of the pan, you may have to cook them in batches.

While the potato cakes are cooking, melt the butter in another non-stick frying pan, set over a medium heat, and once it is hot and bubbling, crack the duck eggs into the pan and cook them until the edges are crispy but the centres remain soft.

Dress the watercress with the extra-virgin olive oil and the vinegar and season with salt and pepper, to your taste. Place 1–2 potato cakes on each plate, top with a fried egg, drizzle with the leftover butter from the egg pan and serve with some watercress on the side.

Cream of Jerusalem artichoke soup with bacon

Serves 4

300g (11oz) Jerusalem artichokes

1 large shallot

1 small potato

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed

500ml (18fl oz) Vegetable Stock (see page 218)

3 rashers of smoked streaky bacon

110ml (4fl oz) double cream

Salt and black pepper

Crusty bread, to serve

Jerusalem artichokes are the roots of a plant related to the sunflower. They come into season very early in spring, sometimes even earlier, at the tail end of winter. Despite having the same name, the globe artichoke comes from a completely different plant and isn’t in season until the summer. Jerusalem artichokes make excellent soup; I also love them in purées, salads or simply sautéed.

Peel the artichokes, shallot and potato and chop into 1cm (½in) cubes. Set a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat and add 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Tip in the vegetables and fry gently for 2–3 minutes, without browning.

Add the garlic and pour in the vegetable stock. Bring to the boil and cook for 8–10 minutes or until the artichokes and potato are cooked through and soft.

Meanwhile, heat the grill to high and grill the bacon on both sides until crispy, then set aside. Once cool, cut into pieces.

Add the cream to the soup, bring back up to the boil and cook for another 2–3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, then pour the soup into a blender and puree until smooth. Alternatively, puree the soup using a held-held blender.

Return the soup to the pan, reheat gently and add salt and pepper, to taste. Pour the soup into bowls and sprinkle with small pieces of the bacon. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil and serve with fresh crusty bread.

Frisée, radish and orange salad

Serves 4

Vegetarian

3 oranges

½ head frisée lettuce

4 radishes, sliced

½ bunch of chives, in 2.5cm (1in) lengths

1 tbsp white wine vinegar

5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and black pepper

This refreshing salad makes a great accompaniment to fish, especially smoked salmon. The outer leaves of frisee lettuce can be bitter, so use the inner leaves only.

Zest two oranges, then peel and break the segments into a large bowl. Add the lettuce leaves, radish slices and chives.

To make the dressing, put the zest in another bowl with the juice of the third orange and the vinegar. Whisk in the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Pour the dressing over the salad, toss the leaves to coat evenly and serve immediately.

Bibb lettuce salad with radishes

Serves 4

Vegetarian

4 heads of Bibb lettuce

6 tbsp chopped mixed

fresh herbs

2 shallots 8 radishes

1 tbsp Dijon mustard

2 tbsp red wine vinegar

5 tbsp rapeseed oil

Salt and black pepper

A simple salad, ideal with grilled chicken or fish. If you can’t get Bibb lettuce, use Little Gem instead; and feel free to replace the rapeseed oil with a good-quality extra-virgin olive oil.

Cut away the base section from each lettuce and place the leaves in a large bowl. Add all the herbs to the bowl and mix well together. Peel and thinly slice the shallots, slice the radishes and layer both with the salad leaves onto plates.

In a separate bowl, mix together the mustard and vinegar and slowly add the rapeseed or olive oil. Season well with salt and pepper, drizzle the dressing over the salad leaves and serve.

Montgomery cheese balls with rosemary

Serves 4

Vegetarian

450ml (16fl oz) milk

125g (4½oz) Montgomery’s Cheddar or any good-quality, mature Cheddar cheese

20g (¾oz) butter, plus extra for greasing

150g (5oz) plain flour

2 whole eggs, beaten

6 eggs, separated into whites and yolks

2 tbsp finely chopped rosemary leaves

300g (11oz) dried breadcrumbs, such as Japanese panko

1.2 litres (2 pints) vegetable oil, for deep-frying

Salt and black pepper

These are excellent as canapés, as a starter or, in larger quantities, as a vegetarian main course. Serve simply with salad, such as the Bibb Lettuce Salad with Radishes (see page 13).

Gently warm the milk in a small saucepan over a low heat – do not let it boil. Grate the cheese into a bowl and set aside.

Place the butter, flour, beaten eggs and the six yolks in a large saucepan, add the grated cheese and set over a low heat. Gradually add the warm milk, stirring continuously with a whisk to prevent lumps. Once all of the milk has been added, keep stirring until the mixture begins to thicken.

When the mixture starts to come away from the sides of the pan, season with salt and pepper and pour out on to a greased baking tray to cool. Once cool, mould the mixture into balls each about the size of a golf ball and place in the fridge for 30 minutes to firm up.

Beat the egg whites in a bowl and mix the rosemary and breadcrumbs in another bowl. Dip the cheese balls first into the egg white, then the rosemary breadcrumbs and either cook straight away or return to the fridge and cook later.

If using a deep-fat fryer, heat the vegetable oil to 190°C (375°F). Alternatively, fill a deep, heavy-based frying pan to a depth of 2cm (¾in) with oil and use a sugar thermometer to check that it has reached the correct temperature.

Remove the balls from the fridge and lower into the fryer or pan. Cook for 4–5 minutes until golden brown, then carefully lift out with a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen paper and serve.

Seared sea bass with blood orange and spring onion salad

Serves 4

4 blood oranges

1 bunch of spring onions, cut into 2.5cm (1in) lengths

200g (7oz) mixed salad leaves

1 tbsp olive oil

4 × 125g (4½oz) sea bass fillets, all bones removed

1 bunch of basil, leaves only

Salt and black pepper

For the dressing

25ml (1fl oz) white wine vinegar

Pinch of caster sugar

110ml (4fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil

Farmed sea bass has become widely available in recent years, but if you can get hold of line-caught bass it’s definitely worth the extra cost. Blood oranges are a beautiful deep red colour and have a much more distinctive flavour than regular oranges (although you could use these as an alternative). They go well in savoury dishes and salads.

Peel three of the oranges and break the segments into a large bowl along with the spring onions. Season with salt and pepper, then add the salad leaves and toss together. Set aside.

To make the dressing, squeeze the juice from the remaining orange into another bowl and mix with the vinegar and sugar. Whisk in the extra-virgin olive oil until fully incorporated. Drizzle a little of the dressing over the prepared salad and toss together to coat.

Pour the olive oil into a non-stick frying pan set over a high heat. Place the sea bass fillets in the pan, skin side down, and sear for 3–4 minutes or until the sides of the fish start to brown. Turn over, cook for 1 more minute, add half the basil and remove from the heat, keeping the fish in the pan to allow them to carry on cooking in the residual heat. Set aside.

Divide the salad between plates, then lift the sea bass fillets from the pan and place on top of the salad. Scatter with the remaining basil, drizzle over the rest of the dressing and serve.

Dill-marinated salmon with lime and rhubarb salad

Serves 4

2 sticks of rhubarb, any leaves removed

25g (1oz) pickled ginger, finely chopped, and juice

Zest and juice of 1 lime

50ml (2fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil

15g (½oz) chives, chopped

2 × 250g packets of dill-marinated salmon or smoked salmon

Salt and black pepper

1 lemon, cut into wedges, to serve

Crusty bread, to serve

My chef, Chris, came up with this idea while experimenting in the kitchen. I liked the combination of these ingredients so much that I put it on the menu at my bistro. If you can’t find dill-marinated salmon, just use regular smoked salmon instead.

Thinly slice the rhubarb lengthways and cut into very fine sticks, the size of matchsticks. Place in a bowl of iced water and leave for 20 minutes.

Place the pickled ginger and juice in a bowl, add the lime zest and juice along with the olive oil, then season, to taste, with salt and pepper.

Remove the rhubarb from the iced water, mix into the bowl with the dressing and stir in the chives. Slice up the salmon and arrange on a board or platter, or divide between plates. Serve with the rhubarb salad, some lemon wedges to squeeze over the salmon, and chunks of crusty bread on the side.

Grilled halibut with champ and lemon caper butter

Serves 4

500g (1lb 2oz) floury potatoes, peeled and cut into quarters

110ml (4fl oz) milk

50g (2oz) butter

150g (5oz) spring onions, chopped

4 × 150g (5oz) halibut fillets, all bones removed

1 tbsp olive oil

110g (4oz) caper berries or capers

Peeled segments of 4 lemons, plus the juice of 1 lemon

1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley

Salt and black pepper

Halibut is a meaty fish, full of flavour and with very few bones. If you can’t get caper berries, use small capers (caper buds) instead, but if they’re in salt or brine, rinse well in hot water before using.

Put the potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with water and add a good pinch of salt. Bring to the boil and cook for 20–25 minutes, then drain the potatoes and return to the pan, which should no longer be over the heat.

Pour the milk into a small saucepan and heat until nearly boiling. Crush the potatoes with a fork or potato masher until they form a chunky mash, then slowly add the hot milk, stirring all the time.

Melt half the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat, tip in the spring onions and sauté for about 2 minutes. Add these to the mash, then season well with salt and pepper and set aside.

Season the halibut with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Place in a non-stick frying pan over a high heat and cook for 3–4 minutes on each side, or until the fish starts to turn golden-brown. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Add the remaining butter to a medium-sized saucepan set over a high heat. When it has turned nut brown in colour, add the caper berries and the juice of one lemon. Season, then remove from the heat and add the lemon segments and parsley.

Place some champ on each plate with a piece of halibut at the side. Spoon the lemon caper butter over the top and serve.

Mackerel with caramelised radishes

Serves 4

16 baby white onions, peeled and left whole

16 radishes

1 tbsp runny honey

2 tsp cumin seeds

4 mackerel, gutted and washed

2 banana shallots, peeled and sliced

2 lemons, sliced

1 bunch of coriander

1 bunch of chives

½ bunch of thyme

50ml (2fl oz) olive oil

This recipe was inspired by a trip to France, where I visited a great market right on the seafront. The fishing boats were moored up alongside the market stalls, which were laden with fresh fish – in particular, mackerel, which is unbeatable when eaten fresh and cooked simply. I was also impressed by the crisp, vibrant radishes on sale. Here I’ve found a way to combine the two.

Place the onions and 110ml (4fl oz) water in a large non-stick saucepan. Bring to the boil and allow to cook for 5 minutes, or until tender, then add the radishes and cook for a further 2–3 minutes.

Add the honey and cumin seeds and cook for a further 5–6 minutes. The colour of the radishes will gradually start to run and form a glaze. When nearly all the liquid has evaporated, remove the pan from the heat.

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas 4. To prepare the mackerel, place 4 sheets of foil on a work surface – each sheet about the size of a newspaper. Divide the shallots, lemons and herbs between the pieces of foil, placing a pile in the middle of each sheet. Place the mackerel on top and score the fish with a sharp knife. Drizzle with the olive oil and a tablespoon of water and fold the foil over to form small parcels.

Place the parcels on a baking tray, put in the oven and cook for about 8–10 minutes. Remove from the oven, open up the parcels and transfer the fish to plates. Gently reheat the onion and radish mix, divide between the plates and serve.

Cod with clams, curly kale and wild garlic

Serves 4

4 tbsp rapeseed or extra-virgin olive oil

150g (5oz) butter

4 × 150g (5oz) cod fillets, skin on

400g (14oz) small, fresh clams, in shells

2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped

200ml (7fl oz) perry (cider-like drink made from pears) or cider

225g (8oz) curly kale, stalks discarded

110g (4oz) wild garlic leaves, or 110g (4oz) fresh spinach and 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped

Zest of 1 lemon

3 tsp finely chopped chives

Salt and black pepper

When buying cod, go for thicker fillets from larger fish, as these have the best flavour and don’t break up too much during cooking. Wild garlic can be found in woodland and by the side of the road; the leaves should be picked before the heads flower. If you can’t find it, use spinach and chopped cloves of garlic instead.

Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F), Gas 5. Set an ovenproof pan or roasting tin on the hob over a high heat and, when the pan is hot, add the rapeseed or olive oil and 25g (1oz) butter. When the butter has melted, fry the cod fillets for 2–3 minutes on each side, until they are golden-brown all over.

Transfer the pan to the oven and roast the fish for 5 minutes until just cooked through. Remove the pan from the oven, cover with foil and set aside to rest.

Meanwhile, put the clams in a colander and wash thoroughly under running water, discarding any with broken shells or those that don’t close when they are tapped against the side of the colander.

Set a large saucepan over a high heat and, when hot, add the clams, shallots and most of the perry or cider. Lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 2–3 minutes, until the clams have opened and the liquid has slightly reduced.

Clean out the colander and place it over a similar-sized bowl. Pour the clams and cooking liquid into the colander so that the liquid drains through to the bowl. Return the liquid to the pan and set the clams aside. Discard any which haven’t opened during cooking.

Bring the liquid to the boil and cook until reduced and thickened. To finish the sauce, add half of the remaining butter to the pan and whisk to combine. Season with salt and pepper and then keep it warm until you are ready to serve the dish.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and add the curly kale. Cook for 2–3 minutes until just tender. Drain the kale well and place in a frying pan. Add the remaining butter, wild garlic leaves (or spinach and garlic) and lemon zest, and cook over a medium–high heat for just 20 seconds, to wilt the wild garlic. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

To serve, divide the kale and wild garlic leaves between plates and place the cod on top. Add the final splash of perry and the chives to the clam sauce. Then spoon some of the mixture over the cod and arrange the clams on top. Pour the remaining sauce over the fish and clams, and serve.

Trout with green beans and almonds

Serves 4

4 fresh trout, gutted but with the heads left on

150g (5oz) butter, melted

75g (3oz) whole, shelled almonds

300g (11oz) French beans, topped and tailed

Salt and black pepper

With trendy new varieties of fish arriving from all over the world, we tend to forget how good our own locally-sourced species can be. Trout is a prime example – it’s available all year round and, served with almonds, it’s a classic fish dish.

Place each trout on its back and open up the ribcage with a knife. Using sharp kitchen scissors, cut the backbone in two places – at the highest point near the head and the lowest point by the tail. If you prefer, you can ask your fishmonger to do this for you.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas 6. Brush each fish, inside and out, with half the butter and season with salt and pepper. Butter a roasting tin and place the fish in the tin, pressing each one down with its ribcage pointing up.

Bake in the oven for 6 minutes and then add the almonds to the tin. Cook for a further 5–6 minutes, then remove from the oven. You can tell when the fish is cooked when you can pull out the backbone easily. Do this for all four fish.

While the fish is cooking, bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil, add the beans and cook for 4–5 minutes, or until just tender. Drain the beans and place in a warmed bowl.

Place the fish on plates and add the remaining butter to the hot roasting tin. Remove the almonds from the tin and add to the beans. Season well with salt and pepper. To serve, place the beans and almonds into the cavity of each trout and spoon over the hot butter from the tin.

Wok-fried chicken with ginger, chilli and wild garlic

Serves 4

4 × 175g (6oz) boneless, skinless chicken breasts

4 tbsp cornflour

1 tbsp corn oil

2 tbsp finely chopped root ginger

6 spring onions, sliced on the diagonal into 2cm (¾in) pieces

1 red chilli, finely chopped

2 bunches of wild garlic leaves or 225g bag of baby spinach

1 clove of garlic, peeled and chopped

4 tbsp dark soy sauce

Salt

Steamed rice, to serve

The chicken in this recipe is coated in cornflour and poached in water, a cooking method known as ‘velveting’. Pork can be done in the same way. It’s great for a stir-fry, in which the meat is cooked quite quickly, because it really does help to give it a softer texture.

Place a large wok or non-stick frying pan and a large saucepan of salted water on the hob, both set over a high heat. While they are heating, slice the chicken breasts thinly.

Coat the chicken pieces in the cornflour, then place in the water, once it has come to the boil, and blanch for 2 minutes. Remove the chicken from the water and set aside.

Add the corn oil to the wok or frying pan, followed by the chicken, ginger, spring onions and chilli, mixing well together. Cook for 1 minute, then add the remaining ingredients and season with a pinch of salt. Cook for about 1 minute, or until the wild garlic or spinach leaves wilt down.

Serve in bowls with helpings of steamed rice.

Sautéed chicken livers and mushrooms on toast

Serves 4

4 slices from a white bloomer

30g (1¼oz) butter

6 rashers of back bacon, cut into lardons

400g (14oz) chicken livers

200g (7oz) brown cap mushrooms, cut in half

50ml (2fl oz) white wine

110ml (4fl oz) double cream

3 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley

Salt and black pepper

Chicken livers are one of the few remaining inexpensive meats and we should use them in cooking a lot more than we do. Make sure the green parts of the livers are removed and don’t overcook them or they will become bitter-tasting and grainy. Mushrooms and double cream make this dish smooth and rich, a perfect opposite to the crunchy toast.

Toast the bread either in a toaster or under the grill, preheated to medium–high, and set aside.

Melt half the butter in a frying pan set over a high heat, add the bacon and fry until it starts to crisp. Add the livers and mushrooms and saute for 1 minute.

Pour over the wine and cream and stir all the ingredients together for 2–3 minutes, but no more, to ensure the livers stay pink in the middle, then remove the pan from the heat.

Add the parsley and season with salt and pepper. Serve with slices of toast, plain or buttered with the remaining butter.

Rack of lamb with vegetable broth

Serves 4

20g (¾oz) shelled hazelnuts

4 large, floury potatoes, peeled and quartered

4 racks of Frenchtrimmed lamb (ask your butcher to prepare these)

1 tbsp olive oil

12 baby onions, peeled but left whole

800ml (29fl oz) beef stock

200g (7oz) broad beans

250g (9oz) asparagus tips

110g (4oz) French beans, topped and tailed

40g (1½oz) butter

110ml (4fl oz) double cream

2 tbsp chopped flatleaf parsley

4 tsp hazelnut oil (optional)

Salt and black pepper

My favourite lamb supplier is Colin Robinson, a family butcher from Skipton, North Yorkshire. If you’re in the area, pay him a visit. I promise you won’t be disappointed.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas 6. Roast the hazelnuts on a baking tray for 15–20 minutes, or until the skins split. Take out of the oven, tip into a clean tea towel and rub to remove the skins. Once cooled, chop the nuts in half.

Place the potatoes and a good pinch of salt in a large saucepan of water. Bring to the boil and cook for 20–25 minutes.

Season the lamb with salt and pepper. Put the olive oil in a roasting tin, place over a high heat and add the lamb. Seal on all sides, especially the side with the fat. Add the onions to the tin and put in the oven for 6 minutes. Remove from the oven, add the hazelnuts and return to the oven for 6 minutes more.

Pour the stock into another large saucepan, bring to the boil and reduce by half. Add the broad beans, cook for 3–4 minutes, then remove them (reserving the stock) and refresh in cold water. Peel off the skins. Just before the lamb is ready, add the asparagus tips and French beans to the stock to cook. Remove the lamb from the oven and allow to rest in the tin. Meanwhile, drain the potatoes, return to the pan and mash with butter and cream. Add salt and pepper and keep warm.

Drain the fat from the lamb and add the hazelnuts and onions to the stock. Return the peeled broad beans, add the parsley, and season with salt and pepper. Slice each rack of lamb in half and place with the mash in the centre of bowls. Spoon the broth around and drizzle with hazelnut oil, if you wish.

Lamb, mint and Little Gem salad

Serves 4

2 racks of lamb, bones removed (ask your butcher to do this)

1 tbsp olive oil

3 sprigs of rosemary

50g (2oz) butter, cut into cubes

2 Little Gem lettuces

Salt and black pepper

For the dressing

1 tsp caster sugar

25ml (1fl oz) Chardonnay vinegar or other white wine vinegar

75ml (3fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp chopped mint

Salt and black pepper

This simple and delicious salad can be eaten hot, warm or even cold, whichever way you prefer. It reminds me of my gran – like me, she loved fresh mint in salads or eaten with lamb. So, Gran, this recipe is in memory of you.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas 6.

Trim the lamb, removing excess fat if you wish, and, using a piece of string, tie up into a tight roll. Season with salt and pepper.

Set an ovenproof pan or roasting tin over a high heat, add the tablespoon of olive oil and then the lamb, turning it in the pan for 2–3 minutes to seal on all sides, so that it is an even golden colour. Add the rosemary and the butter and remove the pan from the heat.

Roast in the oven for 8 minutes, basting from time to time with the butter, then remove from the oven. When the lamb has cooled slightly, remove from the pan, wrap in cling film tightly with the rosemary and set aside on a chopping board.

Place the sugar and the vinegar in a bowl, mix well then add the extra-virgin olive oil and the mint. Season with salt and pepper, to taste, stir together and pour into a serving jug.

Place the leaves from the lettuces in a serving bowl. Remove the lamb from the cling film, slice very thinly and serve with the salad leaves and the jug of dressing on the side.

Côte de boeuf with watercress and black beer mustard

Makes 2 large portions or 4 smaller ones

1kg (2lb 2oz) rib of beef with the chine bone removed (ask your butcher to do this for you)

2 tbsp olive oil

Salt and black pepper

110g (4oz) Black Beer Mustard (see page 36), to serve

For the watercress salad

1 tbsp cider vinegar

3 tbsp rapeseed or extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp Black Beer Mustard (see page 36)

110–150g (4–5oz) watercress, thick stalks removed

Salt and black pepper

Côte de boeuf is a large cut of beef with a big, thick rib bone. If you can’t get it, use a thick rib-eye steak instead. This is equally delicious cooked on a barbecue in summer for 10 – 15 minutes on each side.

Season the beef with salt and pepper and brush with the olive oil. Set a frying pan over a high heat and, when it starts to smoke, add the beef and cook for 4–5 minutes on one side, then turn over and cook for a further 4–5 minutes. Turn the beef to seal the edges and cook for a further 4 minutes on each side, or 8–10 minutes per side if you prefer your meat well done.

Remove the beef from the pan, place on a chopping board and allow to rest for 5 minutes before carving.

To make the watercress salad, whisk the vinegar, rapeseed or olive oil and mustard together in a bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper. Place the watercress in another bowl and drizzle over the dressing, tossing the leaves to coat evenly. Place in a serving bowl and set aside.

To serve, cut the beef into fairly thick slices and serve the mustard and the watercress on the side.

Black beer mustard

Makes 425g (15oz)

Vegetarian

25g (1oz) white mustard seeds

110g (4oz) black mustard seeds

75g (3oz) light soft brown sugar

1 tsp allspice berries

1 tsp paprika

½ tsp turmeric

2 tsp sea salt

1 tsp crushed black peppercorns

175ml (6fl oz) red wine vinegar

40ml (1½fl oz) balsamic vinegar

3 tbsp runny honey

110ml (4fl oz) bottled Black Sheep Ale or other traditionally-made British beer

Mustard is very easy to make and handy to keep in your store cupboard. It goes well with many types of meat – try it with the Yorkshire ham on page 39.

Put all the dry ingredients into a food processor or blender and blend until the seeds are roughly crushed. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the two vinegars, honey and ale.

Cover the mustard with cling film and place in the fridge for 2 hours. If you want to keep the mustard longer, put into sterilised jars (see page 166) and store in a cool, dark place. The mustard should then keep for 3–6 months.

Juniper-pickled cucumbers

Makes 400g (14oz)

Vegetarian

250ml (9fl oz) pickling malt vinegar

1 tsp juniper berries

125g (4½oz) caster sugar

1 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp mustard seeds

2 large cucumbers, deseeded and cut into 2cm (¾in) cubes

Salt and black pepper

This will keep for 3–4 days in the fridge if stored in sealed, sterilised jars (see page 166). The pickle can be seen in the picture on page 47.

Place the vinegar, juniper berries and sugar in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat. Pour the olive oil into a frying pan set over a medium–high heat, add the mustard seeds and cook until the seeds start to pop.

Add the cucumber and fry for 2–3 minutes. Season, to taste, with salt and pepper. Place in a bowl, pour over the vinegar mixture and stir well. Allow to cool completely, then place in the fridge.

Sliced Yorkshire ham with poached leeks and spring onions

Serves 4

6 black peppercorns

Pinch of salt

1 bay leaf

1 medium leek, trimmed and outer leaves removed

8 spring onions

400g (14oz) York or any other roast ham, ready-sliced if you prefer

Chervil leaves, to garnish

For the glaze

4 tbsp English mustard

2 tbsp runny honey

150ml (6fl oz) rapeseed or extra-virgin olive oil

Zest of 2 oranges

4 tbsp white wine vinegar

Salt and black pepper

Until recently, one of the few places you could buy a real ‘York ham’ was Scott’s butchers in York, but sadly, after 150 years of trading, it is now closed. Despite this, the UK still produces the best pork in the world and we should make the most of it. This recipe is best served warm; however, if you choose to serve it cold, make just half the quantity of the glaze to drizzle over the ham in the final step.

Half fill a large saucepan with water, add the peppercorns, salt and bay leaf and bring to the boil. Once the water is boiling, add the leek whole (if it doesn’t fit, cut in half widthways). Reduce the heat and cook for 6–8 minutes on a gentle simmer. Add the spring onions and cook for a further 3 minutes, then drain the vegetables and allow to cool.

To make the glaze, place the mustard and honey in a bowl, slowly whisk in the rapeseed or olive oil, then add the orange zest and vinegar, season with salt and pepper and set aside.

If you wish to warm the meat, place the whole ham or the slices on a baking tray and spoon half of the glaze over the top. Put in a preheated oven at 170°C (325°F), Gas 3, for 1 hour if the ham is whole or, if it is ready-sliced, until heated through. Remove from the oven and, if necessary, carve the ham into slices.

Place the sliced ham on a board or platter, then slice the leek into 1cm (½in) rounds and the spring onion into bite-sized lengths. Arrange these on the ham, drizzle with the rest of the glaze, place a few chervil leaves on top and serve.

Scotch eggs with curried salad cream

Serves 4

8 small eggs and 4 medium eggs (reserve 2 for the salad cream)

450g (1lb) good-quality pork sausages or sausagemeat

300g (11oz) dried breadcrumbs, such as Japanese panko

1.2 litres (2 pints) vegetable oil, for deep-frying

For the salad cream

2 hard-boiled egg yolks (see above)

2 tsp English mustard

150ml (5fl oz) rapeseed oil or extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp white wine vinegar

75 ml (3fl oz) double cream

1 tbsp mild curry powder, or to taste

Salt and black pepper

We’re all kids at heart, so who wouldn’t love these delicious eggs? The curried salad cream adds a nice spicy touch and will keep for two days in the fridge, although it’s best used fresh.

Fill a large saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Place the eight small eggs and two of the medium eggs in the boiling water. Remove the eight small eggs after 2–3 minutes and the two medium eggs after 7–8 minutes. Run under cold water immediately to stop them cooking any further, then peel them whole, and set the two medium ones aside.

Remove the skin from the sausages (if using), then dip your hands in cold water and divide the meat into eight balls. With wet hands, press the centre of each ball to make a well. Place a small cooked egg in each well and carefully close the meat around it. Place them on a large plate in the fridge and leave for about 2 hours to firm up.

Place the two uncooked eggs in a shallow bowl and whisk with a fork. Pour the breadcrumbs onto a plate. Dip each Scotch egg in the whisked egg, then roll in the crumbs and return to the fridge for 30 minutes. Repeat the process until each egg has a double layer of crumbs.

Meanwhile, make the salad cream. Push the yolks from the two hard-boiled medium eggs through a sieve into a bowl, then beat in the mustard, season with salt and pepper and place in a blender or food processor. Alternatively, use a hand-held beater for whisking the ingredients together.

Continued overleaf…

Whisk in the rapeseed or olive oil while the machine is on, pouring in a few drops at a time. When smoothly amalgamated, whisk in the vinegar, again a little at a time, and then slowly add the cream. Add the curry powder and season with more salt and pepper, to taste, if needed.

If using a deep-fat fryer, heat the vegetable oil to 150°C (300°F) – not too hot or the eggs will explode and the meat will not cook through. Alternatively, fill a deep, heavy-based frying pan to a depth of 2cm (¾in) with oil and use a sugar thermometer to check that it has reached the correct temperature. Carefully lower the Scotch eggs into the oil and cook for 5–7 minutes.

When cooked, serve hot or cold, with salad cream on the side.

Pressed ham terrine

Serves 4

1.5kg (3lb 4oz) ham hocks

1 onion, peeled and roughly chopped

½ tsp black peppercorns

1 tsp salt

2 sprigs of rosemary

2 bay leaves

3 leaves of gelatine

6 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley

Extra salt and black pepper

Crusty bread, to serve

From the base of a pig’s leg bone, a ham hock is an inexpensive cut of meat that is often overlooked. There isn’t loads of meat on it, so you’ll need several for this recipe. Serve with cucumber pickle (see page 37) and a pile of crusty bread or warm boiled potatoes.

Place the ham hocks in a large, deep saucepan, along with the onion, peppercorns, salt, rosemary and bay leaves. Cover with water and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 2 hours. Remove from the heat and allow to cool in the pan.

Take the hocks from the pan and set aside. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine sieve and pour 250ml (9fl oz) of it into a saucepan set over a medium heat. Place the gelatine leaves in a bowl of cold water and soak for 5 minutes until pliable, then drain the water off and add the gelatine to the hot liquid. Stir well and allow to cool.

Remove the ham from the bones and cut into 2.5cm (1in) pieces, tearing if needed. Mix with the parsley and season lightly with salt and pepper. Line a glass bowl or terrine dish about 1.2 litres (2 pints) in size with a large piece of cling film and spread a quarter of the ham pieces over the base.

Spoon over some of the gelatine liquid, add another quarter of the ham and more gelatine, repeating for two further layers and pouring over the remaining gelatine with the final layer. Stretch cling film loosely over the top, then a layer of foil, and place in the fridge – on a plate, to catch any drips – for 2 hours with a weight or weights pressing on the top.

To serve, take the terrine from the fridge, remove the cling film and accompany with pickled cucumber and crusty bread.

Rhubarb and ginger syllabub

Serves 4

2 sticks of rhubarb (preferably forced variety), cut into lcm (½in) cubes

2.5cm (1in) piece of root ginger, peeled and chopped

4 tbsp caster sugar

50ml (2fl oz) white wine

75g (3oz) mascarpone

250ml (9fl oz) double cream

2–4 tbsp icing sugar

1 piece of crystallised ginger, finely chopped

I wouldn’t be allowed back over the Yorkshire border if I didn’t put some rhubarb recipes in this book. Yorkshire is famous for parkin and puddings, but above all else, it’s celebrated for its rhubarb. The famous ‘rhubarb triangle’ is an area of land between Leeds, Wakefield and Bradford. This is where most of Britain’s forced rhubarb comes from.

Place the rhubarb, root ginger and sugar in a medium-sized saucepan and add the white wine. Set over a low–medium heat and bring to a simmer, not allowing it to boil. Cook for 4–5 minutes, or until the rhubarb is softened, then remove from the heat and set aside.

When the mixture has cooled, remove 2 tablespoonfuls to a separate bowl and mash with a fork. In another bowl, whip the mascarpone and cream together with the icing sugar and when the mixture forms soft peaks, fold in the mashed rhubarb and ginger mixture.

Spoon the rest of the poached rhubarb into bowls or glasses, then spoon over the mascarpone mixture and sprinkle the crystallised ginger over the top.

Orange cheesecake with roasted rhubarb

Serves 4

450g (1lb) full fat cream cheese

Zest and juice of 4 oranges (zest and juice kept separate)

250g (9oz) caster sugar

400ml (14fl oz) double cream

250g (9oz) crème fraîche

200g (7oz) forced rhubarb, or tender pink stems from the garden, cut into 5cm (2in) lengths

50g (2oz) butter, cut into cubes

4 shortbread biscuits

I’ve tried many cheesecake recipes over the years, but this is my favourite. It can be made with different flavours, too, such as vanilla, chocolate, strawberry or raspberry. The cakes look best when made in professional chef’s rings, which can be bought from a good cookshop or over the internet.

To make the cheesecake filling, place the cream cheese in a bowl and combine with the orange zest and 200g (7oz) of the sugar, then in another bowl whip up the double cream until it forms soft peaks.

Carefully fold together the whipped cream, the cream cheese mixture and the crème fraîche – don’t over-mix or the mixture will split. Then spoon into 6cm (2½in) chef’s rings and place on a baking tray in the fridge for 2 hours to firm up.

Preheat the oven to 240°C (475F), Gas 9. Put the rhubarb in an ovenproof dish, cover with the remaining sugar, the butter and the orange juice, and place in the oven for 8–10 minutes. Cooking in a very hot oven should cause the juice to turn to a nice syrup, but don’t overcook as rhubarb turns to mush very quickly. Check to see if it is cooked by squeezing one of the pieces, then remove and allow to cool to room temperature.

To serve, crush the shortbread to fine crumbs and remove the cheesecakes from the fridge. Roll the top and bottom of each cake in the biscuit crumbs and place on a plate. Then, using either a warm tea towel or a cook’s blowtorch, warm the rings slightly and they should just lift off. Serve with the rhubarb on the side and drizzle with some of the juices from the dish.

Crème caramel with strawberries

Serves 4–6

150ml (5fl oz) milk

300ml (11fl oz) double cream

1 vanilla pod, cut in half

4 large eggs

40g (1½oz) caster sugar

400g (14oz) fresh strawberries, hulled

For the caramel

110g (4oz) caster sugar

2 tbsp hot water

Every nation has its own version of crème caramel, using different types of milk and cream. It keeps well in the fridge, so can be made well ahead of time. Although strawberries are recognised as a summer fruit, they do start coming into season at the very end of spring. If you’re making this dessert any earlier in the year, however, you could substitute with poached forced rhubarb.

First make the caramel. Put the sugar in a medium-sized saucepan set over a medium heat. When the sugar begins to melt and darken, stir from time to time and continue to cook until it becomes a uniform syrup and a deep caramel colour.

Take the pan off the heat and carefully add the 2 tablespoons of hot water – it will spit quite a bit at first but will soon settle. Stir for 3–4 minutes and once the water is combined, quickly pour into the bottom of 4–6 × 250ml (9fl oz) ramekins, tipping it around to coat the sides of each dish.

Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F), Gas 2. Pour the milk and cream into another saucepan, along with the vanilla pod and scraped-out seeds. Set the pan over a low heat and allow the milk and cream to heat up gently while you whisk together the eggs and sugar in a large bowl.

When the milk and cream are steaming hot, but not boiling, pour onto the egg and sugar mixture, whisking well. Pass though a sieve, then pour the liquid into the ramekins and place them in a large roasting tin. Transfer the tin carefully to the oven, then pour enough hot water into the base of the tin to surround the ramekins up to two-thirds in depth. Bake for 1 hour.

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