THE PUPPY LISTENER

Understanding and caring for your new puppy

JAN FENNELL

I dedicate this book to the dogs I have had the joy of sharing my life with, and thank them for their patience which made it possible for me to really understand them

Contents

Cover

Title Page

Introduction

Chapter 1 - What is a Dog?

Chapter 2 - Your Puppy’s First Weeks of Life

Chapter 3 - Choosing your Dog

Chapter 4 - Making your New Puppy Feel at Home

Chapter 5 - A Healthy Diet: The Essentials

Chapter 6 - The Foundation Stones of Training

Chapter 7 - Grooming: The Key to Good Health

Chapter 8 - Behavioural Problems and Solutions

Chapter 9 - Health Checks in the Early Weeks

Chapter 10 - The Home VET: Checking your Dog’s Health

Chapter 11 - Pushing the Boundaries

Chapter 12 - Understanding your Dog’s Body Language

Chapter 13 - Monitoring the Physical Changes in your Puppy

Conclusion

Further Information

Index

Also by Jan Fennell

Copyright

About the Publisher

Introduction

For sheer joy and excitement, there is nothing quite like a new puppy. The pleasure these bouncing, bright-eyed balls of energy can bring into your life is immense, beyond words at times. I know this from personal experience.

As someone who has been surrounded by dogs since an early age, I’ve been lucky enough to have shared my life with dozens of puppies. They have come in all shapes and sizes, all sorts of breeds, and they have all been memorable canine characters. Many of them have provided me with some of my happiest memories as a dog owner.

As anyone who has ever owned a puppy knows, however, introducing a young dog into your home is never, ever easy. In fact it can be the precise opposite of that – it can be hard work. A puppy’s energy and exuberance can produce mayhem if let loose in the wrong direction, as any dog owner who has witnessed a hyper-active pup run amok in their living room will testify.

So it’s been no surprise to me that, ever since I began helping owners to understand and communicate with their canine companions more than a decade ago, puppies have always been high on the agenda. Indeed, while running my courses, offering consultations or giving talks around the world, questions about living with puppies arise more often than any other dog-related issues. Owners want to know about every aspect of puppy ownership: from choosing a new dog to introducing it to the home, from vaccinating to worming, grooming to training.

The answers to their diverse questions vary, of course, but there is always a common thread. Almost always I discover that the roots of any problems lie in the fact that owners have made mistakes at the beginning of their lives with their puppies. They have got off to the wrong start.

In their defence, I have to say that it is very easy to go wrong. The first six months are, without doubt, the most important in a young dog’s life, and they are also the most challenging for an owner. For all their innocence and pure charm, puppies are not as straightforward as they seem.

SHOW ME THE DOG OF SIX MONTHS …

Comparing the age of a dog to that of a human is not straightforward. The old rule of thumb that one dog year is equivalent to seven human years isn’t really accurate. But it is safe to say that the first six months of a puppy’s life is roughly the equivalent of between four and seven human years. In other words, it’s a significant part of their life.

Think how important these years are in forming a young child’s personality. ‘Show me the boy of seven and I will show you the man,’ the old saying goes, and it is the same with a puppy. Show me a puppy of six months old, and I will show you the dog it is going to become. This is why this period is so crucial for you, the dog owner.

Good dog ownership is always about getting off to the right start, no matter how old your new dog, but this is especially true with puppies. Your puppy needs to learn to eat, sleep and go to the toilet properly. It needs to learn how and when to play, how to interact with its human companions and – crucially – how to listen to those companions when required. Most importantly of all, it must understand its place in the human world in which it lives. And it must know how to accept you, its owner, as the leader of its domestic pack.

The lessons a puppy learns during these six months will remain with it for the rest of its life. They will dictate what kind of dog it will become in adulthood. So if you, as an owner get things right now, you will be able to look forward to a happy, contented and hopefully long relationship with your new dog. If you get them wrong, on the other hand, your problems are only just beginning.

This book is a guide to the first six months of your puppy’s life. It will tell you what is going on physically and mentally in the dog’s body and mind and it will take you step-by-step through the important stages you, as an owner, will have to deal with – in particular, from eight weeks of age when the vast majority of you will be taking charge of your new puppy.

Of course, there is nothing more exhilarating and life-affirming than spending time with the buoyant force of fun-loving nature that is a puppy. Puppyhood should be a time for both dog and owner to enjoy their lives together. Not to do so would be a crime! So there is also plenty of information about how to play and have fun with your puppy too. I hope this book helps you make sure that life is as long and happy as it possibly can be.

Jan Fennell, Lincolnshire, October 2010

Chapter 1 - What is a Dog?

To communicate with your puppy properly you need to understand what makes it tick. And to understand that, you must first understand the answer to what might seem like a simple question: what is a dog? The answer is more complicated than you might imagine. But it will explain everything you need to know about the animal that is about to become your new best friend.

Of all the animals on earth, the dog is by far man’s oldest and closest domestic partner. Our remarkable friendship dates back some 14,000 years. It was around then, so scientists believe, that wolves were first taken in by humans living in early communities. It was a good deal for both sides, as they both got something out of the new alliance. Wolves provided humans with their superior senses, which gave them an early warning system as well as powerful hunting and tracking abilities. Man provided their new partners with easy access to that precious commodity, food.

As the wolf learned to live in close proximity to humans, it evolved into a different kind of animal. It no longer had to rely on hunting and killing other animals for food. It amended its behaviour to gain acceptance in human society. As its diet changed from raw meat to human leftovers, its skull and teeth became smaller relative to the rest of its body. Its brain shrank too. Slowly the wolf became the first species to be domesticated by mankind. The wild animal became a tame one; Canis lupus became Canis familiaris.

In the thousands of years that have passed since then, selective breeding on the part of man has turned the dog into the most varied species on the planet. If dogs had been left to survive in the natural world, they would have evolved very little. Instead, over the centuries man has crossbred dogs with different traits and talents, creating what are in effect hybrids. And these dogs have reflected the different physical demands, as well as the aesthetic tastes and fashions, of humans through the ages and around the world.

THE MAIN GROUPS OF DOG

Dogs have been bred to specialise in a variety of roles, from running down prey to retrieving shot birds, from guarding houses to acting as guides for blind people.

Their DNA, and even their basic skeletal structure, remains identical to that of the wolf. But the several hundred different breeds of dog that now exist come in every conceivable shape, size and design. And while some dogs, such as the Siberian Husky or Alaskan Malamute, closely resemble the prototype of the species, other breeds bear little resemblance to their forefather. You certainly wouldn’t automatically assume that the Miniature Poodle and the Old English Sheepdog have common ancestors.

Broadly speaking, there are seven main groups of dogs. Descriptions of each follow, along with a list of the main breeds within each group.

GUNDOGS OR SPORTING DOGS

A large number of dog breeds evolved according to the jobs humans needed them to do. When the invention of the gun provided a new way of hunting, new varieties of dogs were bred to perform very specific tasks. Dogs with sensitive noses were bred to locate or ‘point’ to the hunters’ targets. Other breeds were developed to flush out or ‘spring’ the prey, usually birds. Yet more dogs were bred to retrieve the prey once it had been shot. Specific traits were bred into each of these dogs. Retrieving dogs, for instance, were bred to have ‘soft mouths’, which ensured there was no damage to the birds they recovered.

Common breeds within this category include the Golden Retriever; German Shorthaired Pointer; the Irish, Gordon and English Setters; the Cocker, American Cocker, English Springer and Field Spaniels; and the Labrador and Chesapeake Bay Retrievers. The group also includes the Weimaraner and the Hungarian Vizsla.

WORKING DOGS

Over the centuries, humans have bred dogs to do a huge range of different jobs. Breeds have been produced specifically to rescue people from drowning, guide them across snow-covered mountains, alert them to intruders, sniff out explosives and guide the blind. This diverse collection of working dogs includes the Alaskan Malamute and the Bernese Mountain Dog, the St Bernard and the Dobermann, the Boxer and the Bullmastiff. Each of these was bred to excel at specific activities.

HOUNDS

Some of the earliest breeds developed by man were used as ‘sight’ or ‘gaze’ hounds. Such dogs are described in ancient Persian manuscripts and appear in Egyptian tomb paintings. Their special skill was to hunt down prey that humans and their horses, bows and arrows couldn’t reach in open country. Often helped by trained falcons, these dogs had the ability to creep up swiftly and silently, running down the prey so that the hunters could close in for the kill. The Saluki and the Afghan are amongst the oldest examples of this group of dog. More modern versions include the Irish Wolfhound and the Greyhound. Centuries later, Europeans developed ‘scent’ hound breeds that were able to trail quarry over long distances, eventually exhausting it. Some killed the prey, others kept it cornered while baying to attract the hunters to them. The Elkhound was a typical example of this type of dog. More modern versions include the Bloodhound and the Basset Hound.

It is a measure of the diversity of the demands humans have placed on their dogs that this group contains some of the greatest contrasts within the canine world: from the tallest of breeds, the Irish Wolfhound, to one of the shortest, the Dachshund; from the fastest, the Greyhound, to the most silent, the only non-barking breed, the Basenji.

TERRIERS

The name Terrier comes from the Latin terra, meaning earth. As the name suggests, the original terriers were bred to hunt creatures considered by humans as vermin that lived both above and below the ground, such as foxes, badgers, rats and otters. Terriers date back many centuries and are believed to have originated largely in Britain. Popular breeds include the Airedale and the Bull, the Cairn and the Fox, the Irish and the West Highland.

TOY DOGS

Dogs haven’t only been bred for working purposes, however. Throughout history, man has produced dogs that have provided him with nothing more than warmth and companionship, affection and aesthetic pleasure. Lapdogs, for instance, were – as their name suggests – bred specifically to sit on the laps of Tibetan monks. Elsewhere, aristocrats produced breeds that appealed only for the admiring looks they won in and around the royal court. Toy breeds include the Maltese and the Pomeranian, the Pekingese and the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, the Yorkshire Terrier and the Bichon Frise.

UTILITY OR NON-SPORTING DOGS

Such is the range of breeds man has created, there are many that don’t fit conveniently into any of the main categories in terms of sport or work. Unsurprisingly, the dogs within this group have hugely contrasting appearances. They include such diverse dogs as the Japanese Akita and the Miniature Poodle, the Dalmatian and the Chow Chow, the Mexican Hairless and the Lhasa Apso.

PASTORAL OR HERDING DOGS

Among the most useful and intelligent dogs ever bred are those traditionally used for herding. They have been bred to work in different climates and with different animals, from cattle and sheep to reindeer. Because they work in the face of the elements, they have evolved tough, weatherproofed double coats to protect them from even the most severe weather conditions. The most popular breeds of this type are the German Shepherd and the Border Collie, the Old English Sheepdog and the Samoyed. In different parts of the world, breeds range from the Australian Shepherd and Cattle Dogs to the Belgian Shepherd Dog, from the Finnish Lapphund to the Norwegian Buhund, from the Polish Lowland Sheepdog to the Pyrenean Mountain Dog.

THE WOLF IN YOUR PUPPY

Given their physical differences and the very different environments into which they will be introduced, modern dogs live lives more diverse than those of any other species on earth. Some will work, whether as sheepdogs or guide dogs, sniffer dogs or police dogs, some will breed and raise families, while others will simply provide companionship and pleasure. Whatever breed they are – and whatever life they lead – two things are certain. They all share the same DNA and the same basic programming as their ancient ancestor, the wolf. And because of this each of their lives will conform to a distinct pattern.

It may not seem as though your adorable ball of fluff is a wild animal as it curls itself up in front of your fireplace but, deep within its DNA, that’s precisely what it is. You can take the dog out of the wolf pack, but you can’t take the wolf pack out of the dog. To understand what your puppy is going through during its first six months, you first need to understand what happens in the natural world.

A wolf pup spends the first part of its life, around six months, in close proximity to the den where it is raised. During these months it passes through the first distinct phases of its life.

For the first three weeks or so, the wolf pup is utterly dependent on its mother. It remains close to her at all times, suckling from her bosom in the den. During this time, the family unit remains undisturbed by the rest of the pack. Despite being the leader of the pack, even their father, the alpha male, stays away during this time.

After three weeks or so, the puppies will be able to walk and make their first, furtive movements away from their mother. At the same time their father, the alpha, and the rest of the pack begin interacting with them. A wolf pack is a well-oiled machine, a tightly knit team in which each member knows its place and its job. And from the very beginning each wolf is groomed to take its position in that chain of command.

During the pups’ first weeks every adult wolf has become ‘broody’, producing a hormone called prolactin. They know the newcomers represent the pack’s future survival. They know too that more than half of the new litter will not survive into adulthood. Disease, starvation and predators claim 60 per cent of young wolves before they reach the age of two. So as the pups emerge into the den, the pack begins the job of educating their new members about the day-to-day realities of surviving lupine life.

The messages the pups receive during this phase are powerful and formative ones. They see how facial expression and body language convey important signals about status. They learn how their elders use these signals to avoid confrontations. They see that rank is determined by a combination of experience and personality, with the stronger characters rising to the top of the pack. And by watching the way the grown-up wolves interact, particularly with the alpha male, the pups get their first glimpses of how the very top of that hierarchy works.

But the most immediate lessons they learn come from play. As they begin chasing, retrieving and play-fighting with their siblings, they develop their physical abilities and begin to see where their strengths – and ultimately their place in the pack – lie. This is the very beginning of their preparation for fully-fledged membership of the pack. In time the natural herders, stalkers and attackers will emerge.

By the time it is eight weeks or so old, a wolf pup will be ready to venture a little further afield. It will begin to chase insects, birds or other creatures that gather around the pack. The play rituals it undergoes with its siblings and other members of the pack will intensify. The young wolf will develop its abilities to run and jump, wrestle and bite, skills that it will come to need when it joins the hunters. Any ideas a young wolf might have of heading off on the hunt will be quickly dispelled, however. Leaving the den at this stage would make it vulnerable to attack by predators. The senior wolves will give pups a signal, delivered in clear, unequivocal terms: ‘Stay at home; you’re not ready to join us yet.’ They will also choose one senior wolf to remain with the pups. Once again, the hierarchy of the pack – and the young wolf’s place within that structure – is driven home.

By the time it reaches its fifth and sixth months, the wolf pup is developing fast both physically and mentally. Inside the den and around its perimeter, the building blocks are continuing to be laid for its emergence – eighteen months or so down the line – as a mature, adult wolf.

It may seem hard to equate the life of a wild animal to that of the lovable creature that shares your life but it is crucial that you do. The stages of their development are very similar, as are their capabilities at each age. Certain wolf instincts are hard-wired into the brains of domestic dogs, and it is only by seeing your pet as a domesticated wolf that you will be able to understand its behaviour and learn how to deal with it effectively.

In this book, I’ll explain all about looking after dogs from birth up to six months, and show the ways in which your puppy’s ancestors continue to affect it today.

Chapter 2 - Your Puppy’s First Weeks of Life

Most people will acquire a puppy some time after it is eight weeks old. For you to understand your puppy properly, it is important that you understand what goes on during those first eight weeks. How has it developed? What have been the most important moments so far? What factors do you need to bear in mind as you take over ownership of a puppy?

THE EARLY HOURS – BIRTH AND BEYOND

The first few moments of a dog’s life are traumatic. The newborn puppy emerges from the warm, safe, dark environment that is the womb into a world filled with new smells and sensations.

Fortunately its mother will be there to reassure and care for it. She will be fixated on its welfare for the crucial first two to three weeks to come.

Because it can’t hear or see, the newborn puppy has very little concept of what is happening during the first ten days. It does not yet have any concept of its self or its siblings. It can do little more than sleep, drag itself on to its mother’s teat when it feels the need for food and whine when it is feeling cold, hungry or in pain.

The mother’s role is all-encompassing during this phase. As well as feeding her pups, she also stimulates them to defecate and urinate then eats their faeces and licks up the urine so as to keep the den clean and free from germs. Not only is she the sole source of food but she is also the only means of keeping warm. A newborn pup can’t generate or retain heat so contact with its mother is vital for its survival. This is why the mother hardly strays more than a couple of feet from her newborns during this phase of their young lives.

Yet even at this point, the first signs of personality and status are emerging within the litter. The mother’s teats are arranged in pairs along the length of her belly, with the best supply of milk available from the middle teats. Already the litter will have begun jostling for access to these prime feeding stations. Some will have forced themselves on to the best teats, while others will have been forced to feed off the less available outer and forward teats. Some may even have been pushed away from the teats altogether and it’s possible they might die.

TEN DAYS TO THREE WEEKS OLD

The first major turning point in a dog’s development comes at about ten days. Around this time the eyes begin to open, ungluing themselves from the inside to the out over a period of three to four days. They then learn to focus. At the same time their hearing is beginning to come into operation as well.

With these senses functioning, puppies become aware of the environment around them. Although they spend a huge proportion of their time sleeping they are also noticing – to their surprise – that they are not alone: they have siblings. They learn to recognise their mum by look and by sound as well as by smell. They start sniffing the perimeter of the whelping box as if signalling their readiness to explore the wider world. They will begin getting up on their legs, trying to find their balance and co-ordination and make their first tentative steps. There is a lot of investigation of what they are capable of – and what others are capable of. The puppies will begin climbing over each other, trying to gain height advantage over their siblings. There is a lot of sparring and blatting at this point. There are practical lessons to learn too. At this time, for instance, they learn to lap water from a bowl.

All this activity comes in short bursts, however. Within a maximum of five minutes they will be asleep again.

THREE TO EIGHT WEEKS

By the three-week point in puppies’ development, with their eyes, ears and nose all now functioning, they are reacting more to sight, smell and sound. They start to bark and make more sounds. They start to wag their tails. They start scratching themselves and shaking their heads. And they start play fighting with their siblings. This is an extension of the interaction that’s been going on already, as they bite each other and try to climb up to give themselves a height advantage. They are developing answers to some key questions. Where do I fit into this pack? What am I capable of doing physically? But they are also asking the question, what – and who – is outside the immediate confines of the whelping box. They are ready to claim a little independence for themselves.

In the wild, it is now that the pack really comes into its own. While the pups were being suckled by their mother, the alpha female, the excitement has been building in the rest of the pack. The other wolves – both male and female – have been producing prolactin, which makes them ‘broody’ too. Now, as the mother invites the father and the rest of the extended family to join her, they start to perform their role as surrogate parents.

Wolves from all parts of the pack hierarchy will do their bit to educate, assimilate and act as mentors for the new pup. This is how the pup gains the important information it will need in order to be a properly functioning – and happy – adult member of the pack. They will set boundaries – gently dragging the pups back when they wander too far from the den. In short, they are teaching them the rules and the language of the pack.

A domestic dog is living in a very different social organisation – but it is still vital that the dog begins to get the information it will need to function within that organisation. And it is vital that that knowledge is imparted now, when its most important imprinting is happening. It is up to us, as humans, to perform the same role as the pack that would be its teachers in the wild.

HANDLING PUPPIES

It is around three weeks old that breeders should start handling puppies, getting them used to the sight, smells and sounds of humans. This is vitally important for the rest of the puppy’s development so from the outset the aim is for the puppy to associate human contact with warmth, comfort and above all safety. While a little stress is good for the dog’s development – making it ask ‘What happens now?’ – too much stress has to be avoided at all costs.

To pick up a puppy, follow these steps:

1. Crouch down to ground level.

2. Place your hands underneath the puppy and scoop it up gently but confidently.

3. Remaining in the crouched position, raise it up off the ground to eye level.

4. Reward the puppy by placing it in your arms, stroking it gently and making calm, reassuring noises.

If this is done correctly, the puppy will make the association that you are a safe zone. When it feels unsafe in the future and begins to ask questions about where it should go, you will already have provided one potential answer.

This is why you should never pick up a puppy by the scruff of its neck, as some people advocate. This habit is based on a misconception by humans who have seen dogs picking up their young with their teeth. They miss two important points: firstly, the dog clamps its teeth on the pup’s back area, not on the neck; and secondly, it only does so because it doesn’t have hands to do the job. If it did, it wouldn’t be using its teeth. We do have hands and we should use them. By picking the puppy up by the scruff of its neck, you are inflicting pain on it. This creates a totally negative association, which will be a barrier to you bonding with the dog in the days and weeks to come.

Carers who don’t interact with their puppies during this crucial phase of their development are losing valuable time. Indeed, there is strong scientific evidence that a puppy’s instinct to investigate and socialise is at its peak during this early five-week period, after which it begins to fall away. Dogs who haven’t been exposed to humans and their environment by the age of 14 weeks find it problematical to do so in later life.

Go through this picking-up process twice a day from the age of three weeks onwards. As the puppy gets to trust you more you can extend and develop this interaction. This will allow you to pave the way for its interaction with other humans, vets in particular.

1. Place the puppy on a raised surface, like a table. Make sure it is covered and stable, as sudden movement will frighten them.

2. Begin a little bit of grooming, running a very soft brush through its coat.

3. Begin placing your fingers in its mouth, so as to open the jaw and inspect the mouth.

4. Begin holding its head so as to inspect its ears.

5. Teach the puppy to roll on its side in a submissive position. This will achieve two things: preparing the dog for future visits to the vet and also underlining the dominance it has already begun to associate with you.

6. Get the puppy used to you touching its feet. A lot of dogs don’t like having their feet touched, so it’s a huge benefit to get over this hurdle early on. This is best done when the puppy is tired so it is easier to work with.

TEACHING RECOGNITION OF ITS NAME

The most important thing you want to instil in your dog during this first eight weeks is the belief that there is nothing threatening in a human voice. When you or anyone else speaks, you want the dog to associate the sound with all things warm and positive. It is too soon to start teaching it specific commands, such as ‘sit’ or ‘come’, but the puppy will soon have to learn some discipline and self-control. For now it is important that it delights in your company and that it makes a positive association with your voice.

There is one important thing you can do at the moment, and that is to get the puppy to recognise its own name. In doing this you are laying in place some important groundwork for when you get down to training it properly.

The first thing you need to do is choose a name. Once the puppy’s name has been chosen it’s a good idea to use it from the very first time you are picking it up and showing it affection at around three weeks of age. It will be possible to change the dog’s name when it moves home, but if it is destined for another home and you know the likely owner, it is helpful if they choose the name you start working with from an early stage.

The next thing to do is start addressing the puppy within its litter, using that name. At this point the dog doesn’t see itself as an individual so much as a litter member, so it is possible it may not respond immediately. But if it does, your goal is to get it to stop, look at you and – for the first time – ask ‘Are you talking to me?’

There are a few key points to remember when doing this.

• Eye contact is crucial. When you call one of the puppies they may all look at you but you must only look at the individual you are addressing.

• Make sure your eyes are soft and inviting; don’t glare or look anxious.

• When you call the name, do so in a happy way; the tone should be soft, as should the body language.

• If the dog comes to you on its own, praise it warmly, repeating the name.

• If the whole litter comes, make a point of only praising the one dog; you are also trying to teach the pups that it is not their name, and this will help reinforce that message.

The beauty of this is that it is something you can build on. When you are teaching the dog to make a positive association with something during weaning or toilet training, for instance, repeating the name warmly as you reward it will help.

All this should have a drip effect on the dog. It should soon recognise the distinctive sound of its own name, providing you – and its future owners – with a foundation on which to work.

WEANING

Between three and five weeks of age, the puppy is ready to be weaned off its mother’s milk.

In the wild, this is the point at which the alpha female will relinquish her duties as the sole provider of sustenance and take a back seat to the rest of the pack. A mother of domestic puppies behaves in this same instinctive way, standing up to feed rather than lying down, thereby allowing herself to move away if she feels she has finished or if she is being hurt by the puppy’s pin-sharp baby teeth or claws.

It will take the puppy around three weeks to make the transition off its mother’s teat. During that time it may still suckle and feed, but as the demands of her puppies slowly decrease, the female’s milk will dry up so owners will notice that feeding times shorten in length. During the early stages of weaning the puppy’s diet may be divided 50–50 between its mother’s milk and other food, but by the end of the sixth week a puppy should be eating independently of its mother.

Many people begin weaning with a cereal, such as porridge mixed with milk. Some opt for tinned puppy food. Others go for kibbles of ‘complete food’ made up of carefully selected ingredients that constitute an ideal diet. Many people opt for raw meat.

The puppy will by now have a full complement of teeth coming through, but their jaws are still too weak for it to crunch anything and its throat is still too narrow to swallow food of any size. It is vital that whatever food you choose to introduce, it is of the right consistency. Porridge with milk should be as smooth as possible, while kibbles should be soaked in cold water overnight then mixed in a food processor for better consistency. Tinned food must also be softened so that it is palatable for the puppy. If you go for the raw-meat option, make sure it is minced well.

Follow these instructions for the first feed.

1. Pick up the puppy gently, speaking to it softly. Don’t make any sudden movements.

2. Pinch together your thumb and third and fourth fingers. Scoop the food onto your fingers, then put it under the puppy’s nose for a moment or two so it can smell it.

3. How quickly it accepts the food depends on personality. Some will only need to smell it and they will be digging in, while others will be cautious and unsure. If they are enthusiastic, be careful they don’t bite. If they are reluctant, be patient.

4. When the puppy has eaten, stroke it softly with one finger and give it some gentle words of praise.

This is the first time the puppy will have associated you with the providing of food. It is vital that you make it a good association by taking things slowly and doing all you can to make it as pleasant an experience as possible. Time spent getting this right can make the difference between a relationship that works and one that doesn’t. Don’t rush it.

TOILETTING

Until now, as we have seen, the mother both stimulates defecation and cleans up afterwards. This is no longer the case. By the start of the third week, the puppy will have begun to make its first moves away from the whelping box. Generally the front of the box is removed around this time, allowing them to move a few feet away from their sleeping area towards the boundary of the den.

They will begin to defecate and urinate on their own. This new independence coincides with the mother’s gradual removal of herself from the scene.

A puppy of three to four weeks will urinate 12 or more times a day and will open its bowels five to six times a day.

At first the puppy will probably do its toiletting around the den. Dogs are by nature clean creatures so the puppy will try to put as much distance as it can between its sleeping and feeding area and its toilet area. You must ensure you have something in place for puppies to go to the toilet on. There are plenty of alternatives: newspapers or absorbent padding or perhaps wood shavings (make sure they are dust-free).

The puppy isn’t going to get to this area every time, of course, so during this phase it is vital you keep the bedding area immaculately clean. You can buy absorbent bedding that takes wetness through to the bottom. A lining of newspaper between this and the floor will provide another layer to take up moisture. This should be changed as often as need be, perhaps even two or three times a day during the early stage of toilet training.

Dogs prefer to do their toiletting in a natural environment so it is good for both you and your dog if you progress the training to a garden or outdoor area as soon as possible. You should start doing this at about four weeks of age. They should have got the hang of walking by then.

• Accompany the dog to the toilet first thing in the morning, after meals and when it wakes from a sleep.

• Stay with it in the garden or outdoor area. When you see it squatting, give it a food reward and use a word such as ‘empty’ or ‘clean dog’.

There are going to be occasions when it catches you out, so be careful to line the dog’s route from the sleeping area to the garden with whatever it is you are using to absorb the mess. The ideal thing would be a flap leading straight from the den to the garden.

If the puppy has accidents away from the toilet area, the important thing is not to chastise it. Clear it up without a word. The key to toilet training is making it a good association, so anything negative at this stage is unhelpful. With a positive association being built all the time, it won’t take the puppy long to make the connection between wanting to go to the toilet and going outside.

* * * * * * *

By eight weeks of age, the puppy will be ready to move on to a new home without its mother and siblings. The better the care it has received in these early weeks, the more easily it will cope with the trauma of the change of environment. In the next chapter, you’ll find advice for new owners on choosing a puppy at this stage.

Chapter 3 - Choosing your Dog

Before looking at the details of how to introduce a puppy into your home, it is important to discuss how you acquire a new dog. To my mind, there are only two sources from which we should buy dogs: respectable, responsible breeders and registered rescue centres or dogs’ homes.

There is, I know, a wide range of alternative sources – from pet shops and so-called licensed kennels, classified ads or even from a chance encounter with a seller in a pub or at a fairground.

The problem with buying from a stranger is obvious, in that you will have no comeback if anything goes wrong. A friend of mine once saw a batch of dogs for sale at a horse fair. There were no clues as to where these dogs had come from. Their owners had only one interest: making money. My friend was a soft touch and took pity on one dog in particular. During the next two years she spent more than £2,500 on vets bills, because it turned out the dog was riddled with worms and suffered from a variety of stomach problems. The crucial point here is that she had no way of seeking compensation from the people who sold her that dog. She didn’t even get a contact name.

This type of trade is sadly on the increase. The growth of so-called puppy farms, where dogs are bred in a factory-style environment, is something I abhor. Here in the UK the vast majority of pet dealers and licensed kennels are supplied by puppy farms, and owners who buy from them will often be allowed no more than 48 hours in which to return their dogs. How on earth is anyone supposed to decide whether they will be able to share their life with a dog in that space of time? Health problems may not have emerged within that period, and the dog’s true personality might be masked beneath its anxiety about the new surroundings.

It is my firm belief that if at all possible an owner should be able to meet – at least – the puppy’s mother before taking the dog away. This is something I will explain in more detail in a moment. You should be able to visit the breeder and see the puppy interacting with its mother and siblings. Be suspicious if you can’t; in puppy farms, mother and pups are separated early on. The absence of the mother may mean that the seller is a third party, whose motives are purely to do with money rather than the welfare of the dogs in their protection.

No reputable breeder or rescue centre would sell a dog without guaranteeing that the owner could return the animal to them if they were unable to keep the dog for whatever reason. The dog cannot lose under this arrangement. If it fits into a happy home it will enjoy a long and hopefully rewarding life there. If not, it will return to a place where its best interests are safeguarded.

Owners who leave themselves with no comeback are not able to return an unwanted dog. Many will, of course, ensure they are given good homes but, sadly, many more will not. And that is something I cannot condone.

BUYING A PUPPY

Falling in love with a puppy is the easiest thing in the world. We’ve all experienced the aaaaaaah factor, that moment when we’ve stared for the first time into the saucer-sized eyes of a cute young dog and gone hopelessly gooey. It’s for this reason that I recommend people begin their search for a puppy by steering clear of these charmers to begin with.

We know that owners are going to fall head over heels in love with the puppy. It’s a given. Far better for them to deal with the realities before beginning the romance. And the best way to do this is by first meeting the parents.

Producing a litter of puppies involves a collaboration between the human breeder and the dogs. The dogs deliver this new life into the world, but it is the former who must shoulder the ultimate responsibility. I passionately believe that the best way to assess whether a dog is coming from a good home is by getting to know both sets of ‘parents’ – human and canine.

Given that many breeders go to stud to begin their litters, it is more than likely that only the mother will be available. Her personality, temperament and general demeanour will reveal much. If you are able to meet the father as well, this will provide the clearest possible idea of the sort of dog its offspring is going to become.

Just as importantly, the attitude of the breeder is highly revealing. Is their home well-kept? How does the breeder behave towards the dogs? The extent to which the breeder interrogates all potential new owners is a good indication of the quality of the home. You should expect to be grilled by a good breeder. Personally, I insist on knowing as much as I can about anyone who wants to take one of my puppies into their home. It’s like an adoption society; reputable breeders – and registered rescue centres – are very careful about where they place the ‘children’ entrusted to their care. A good breeder is responsible for innocent young lives and they should want to know everything about the home into which they are considering releasing the puppy. They should always ask what the domestic situation is at home.

• Are there people around all day to look after the dog?

• Are there many small children in the home?

• Have they owned this type of dog – or indeed any dog – before?

• Have the prospective owners thought about whether the particular breed is right for their home?

The fact that the breeder, or rescue centre, asks these questions should be seen as a positive sign. If they are not asking these questions, they are probably more interested in making a sale than the dog’s welfare and should, therefore, be treated with caution.

By the same token, a good breeder should be open to questions from a potential owner. They should be willing to reveal anything and everything about the dog’s history and background – from the details of its parentage and its age, to its favourite food and toys. I’ve suggested a list of questions to ask below. Again, owners should be wary of anyone who is vague or unhappy about answering these questions.

Questions to ask a breeder or rescue centre

• What is the dog’s background?

• Who are its parents (if known)? Can you meet them?

• What age is the dog?

• Favourite foods?

• At what times is it fed, and what quantities of food?

• Favourite toys?

• What medical checks has it had?

• Has it been wormed?

• Has it had any vaccinations?

• Has it had its eye test to check for inherited conditions?

• Have any health problems been identified?

• Are there any procedures required by the breed standard, such as removal of a dew claw? If so, have they been done?

• Do its parents suffer from any hereditary problems that could have been passed on?

• Can you have the breed certification documents?

Potential owners should be particularly careful about checking for hereditary problems within some breeds. Cavalier King Charles Spaniels are prone to heart problems, for instance. Long-backed breeds like Basset Hounds and Dachshunds have a tendency to suffer from back pain and slipped discs. In German Shepherds and Labradors, potential buyers should look out for hip dysplasia, a genetic problem in which the ball and socket joint of the hip can be deformed or even non-existent. It is a condition that is extremely painful and ultimately crippling for dogs that are afflicted and something that good breeders monitor closely. Dogs are routinely x-rayed at the age of one and given a ‘hip score’ – which ranges from zero for perfect hips to 18 and higher, a mark which indicates the dog should not be used for breeding. Signs of hip dysplasia can manifest themselves even earlier than this, so it is wise to observe puppies for any tell-tale signs of discomfort in walking, such as ‘hopping’ when they walk.

So as to make informed and appropriate choices, potential owners are advised to research the breeds they are interested in. This is easily done through the Kennel Club or its equivalent organisation overseas and after that the various breed experts. The importance of this cannot be over-stressed. No one goes out to make a major purchase such as a new car or a house without researching the subject thoroughly. When they choose a dog, owners are introducing into the family a new member that will hopefully remain with them for 12 to 14 years. It is not something to be taken lightly.

BREEDS APART: WHAT DIFFERENT DOGS DEMAND FROM THEIR OWNERS

Hundreds of years of selective breeding by humans has produced a bewildering array of different dogs. And, for all their essential similarities, these dogs bring with them their own set of special needs. Some will need more exercise than others. Some will need much more grooming. Others will have a significantly shorter lifespan and will, therefore, incur the inevitable medical costs associated with old age that much sooner. Size is a factor too. The giant breeds need enough space in which to move and grow. Anyone considering acquiring a dog should take all these factors into consideration.

The demands of the different breeds fall into the following broad categories.

PHYSICAL DEMANDS

Some dogs have been bred to be more athletic and energetic than others. Gundogs or sporting dogs, for instance, will tend to demand a lot of exercise. These Springers, Pointers and Setters were, after all, bred to work on the hunt and are able to run for long periods during a normal hunting day. They also tend to love water and may be drawn to retrieve or chase birds, because of generations of breeding. Similarly, pastoral or herding breeds tend to be attracted to other species of animals and may instinctively try to herd them. Not every owner is going to have a flock of sheep for their Collie or German Shepherd to round up, but they should be prepared to give these dogs a proper outlet for their considerable energies. They need homes that are going to be up to the challenge of giving them plenty of exercise and play time.

At the other end of the scale, the toy dog group includes many breeds that were designed to provide little more than companionship and warmth, sometimes literally. Toy breeds such as the Chihuahua, Pekingese, Pomeranian and Maltese don’t need huge amounts of exercise.

SPATIAL DEMANDS

The size of a dog is a factor that needs to be taken into consideration. While toy dogs will not take up much space, large working dogs will fill almost any space they occupy. If they are active dogs as well, this could cause owners problems in a small or restrictive space. Everyone, of course, has the right to own the breed of their choice, but allowances should be made for the living space they require.

GROOMING DEMANDS

Dogs are naturally clean animals, and take a great deal of care of their condition. As a result, some breeds require next to no grooming. Smooth-coated dogs such as the Labrador Retriever or the Great Dane, for instance, are low maintenance compared to other breeds. By contrast, there are some breeds that have been bred purely for their look and consequently have exceedingly long, high-maintenance coats. Breeds that spring to mind here include Afghan Hounds, Spaniels, Old English Sheepdogs, the Bichon Frise and Poodle breeds. Dogs in the Terrier group can also require ‘hand stripping’ (see page 32) to keep their coats looking good.

DOGS WITH MEDICAL/LIFESPAN DEMANDS

The average life expectancy of different breeds varies enormously. Working breeds tend to be bigger dogs so they usually live shorter lives. Smaller toy dogs, on the other hand, tend to live to more advanced ages. Dogs with shorter lifespans are going to need medical care earlier than those with longer lifespans. Old age tends to be the period when the most visits to the vet are required. If the dog isn’t going to live much beyond seven years then, inevitably, this period is going to arrive sooner than if they live to 15 or beyond. They need owners who are willing to meet this challenge.

DIFFERENT BREEDS, DIFFERENT DEMANDS

The tables on the following pages illustrate the different demands of dogs within each of the seven main groups.

KEY

SIZE

S Small

M Medium

L Large

X Extra large

GROOMING AND EXERCISE

L Little needed

M Moderate needed

C Considerable needed

LIFESPAN

A under 9 years on average

B 9–15 years on average

C over 15 years on average

DIFFERENT BREEDS – DIFFERENT DEMANDS

THE DIFFERENT REQUIREMENTS OF THE MOST POPULAR BREEDS

GUNDOGS/SPORTING

TYPE OF DOG: English Setter

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: German Longhaired Pointer

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: German Shorthaired Pointer

SIZE: L

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: German Wirehaired Pointer

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Gordon Setter

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Hungarian Vizsla

SIZE: L

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Irish Red & White Setter

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Irish Setter

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Pointer

SIZE: L

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Retriever (Chesapeake Bay)

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Retriever (Curly Coated)

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Retriever (Flat Coated)

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Retriever (Golden)

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Retriever (Labrador)

SIZE: L

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Spaniel (American Cocker)

SIZE: M

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Spaniel (Cocker)

SIZE: M

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Spaniel (English Springer)

SIZE: M

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Spaniel (Field)

SIZE: M

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Spaniel (Irish Water)

SIZE: M

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Spaniel (Sussex)

SIZE: M

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Spaniel (Welsh Springer)

SIZE: M

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Spanish Water Dog

SIZE: M

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Weimaraner

SIZE: L

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

WORKING

TYPE OF DOG: Alaskan Malamute

SIZE: L

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Bernese Mountain Dog

SIZE: X

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: A

TYPE OF DOG: Bouvier Des Flandres

SIZE: L

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Boxer

SIZE: L

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Bullmastiff

SIZE: L

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Canadian Eskimo Dog

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Doberman

SIZE: L

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: German Pinscher

SIZE: M

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Giant Schnauzer

SIZE: L

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Great Dane

SIZE: X

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: A

TYPE OF DOG: Mastiff

SIZE: X

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: A

TYPE OF DOG: Newfoundland

SIZE: X

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Rottweiler

SIZE: L

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: St Bernard

SIZE: X

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: A

TYPE OF DOG: Siberian Husky

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TERRIER

TYPE OF DOG: Airedale

SIZE: L

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Australian

SIZE: S

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Bedlington

SIZE: M

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG

TYPE OF DOG: Border

SIZE: S

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Bull

SIZE: M

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Bull (Miniature)

SIZE: M

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Cairn

SIZE: S

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Fox (Smooth)

SIZE: M

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Fox (Wire)

SIZE: M

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Irish

SIZE: M

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Kerry Blue

SIZE: M

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Lakeland

SIZE: M

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Norfolk

SIZE: S

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Parson Russell

SIZE: M

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Scottish

SIZE: M

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Skye

SIZE: M

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Staffordshire Bull

SIZE: M

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Welsh

SIZE: M

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: West Highland White

SIZE: S

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

HOUNDS

TYPE OF DOG: Afghan

SIZE: L

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Basenji

SIZE: M

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Basset Hound

SIZE: M

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Beagle

SIZE: M

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Bloodhound

SIZE: L

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: A

TYPE OF DOG: Borzoi

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Dachshund (Long or Wire Haired)

SIZE: M

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Dachshund (Miniature Long or Wire Haired)

SIZE: S

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: C

TYPE OF DOG: Dachshund (Smooth Haired)

SIZE: M

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Dachshund (Miniature Smooth Haired)

SIZE: S

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: C

TYPE OF DOG: Norwegian Elkhound

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Foxhound

SIZE: L

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Greyhound

SIZE: L

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Irish Wolfhound

SIZE: X

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: A

TYPE OF DOG: Pharaoh Hound

SIZE: L

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Rhodesian Ridgeback

SIZE: L

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Saluki

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Whippet

SIZE: M

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

PASTORAL/HERDING

TYPE OF DOG: Anatolian Shepherd

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Australian Cattle

SIZE: M

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Australian Shepherd

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Bearded Collie

SIZE: L

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Border Collie

SIZE: M

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Collie (Rough)

SIZE: L

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Collie (Smooth)

SIZE: L

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: German Shepherd

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Old English Sheepdog

SIZE: L

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Pyrenean Mountain Dog

SIZE: X

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: A

TYPE OF DOG: Pyrenean Sheepdog

SIZE: M

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Samoyed

SIZE: L

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Shetland Sheepdog

SIZE: M

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Welsh Corgi (Cardigan)

SIZE: M

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Welsh Corgi (Pembroke)

SIZE: M

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TOYS

TYPE OF DOG: Affen Pinscher

SIZE: S

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: L

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Australian Silky Terrier

SIZE: S

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: L

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Bichon Frise

SIZE: S

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: L

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

SIZE: S

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Chihuahua (Long Coat)

SIZE: S

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: L

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Chihuahua (Smooth Coat)

SIZE: S

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: L

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: English Toy Terrier (Black and Tan)

SIZE: S

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: L

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Maltese

SIZE: S

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: L

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Miniature Pinscher

SIZE: S

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: L

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Papillon

SIZE: S

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: L

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Pekingese

SIZE: S

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: L

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Pomeranian

SIZE: S

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: L

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Pug

SIZE: S

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: L

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Yorkshire Terrier

SIZE: S

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: L

LIFESPAN: B

UTILITY

TYPE OF DOG: Akita

SIZE: L

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Boston Terrier

SIZE: S

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Bulldog

SIZE: M

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: A

TYPE OF DOG: Chow Chow

SIZE: L

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Dalmatian

SIZE: L

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: French Bulldog

SIZE: S

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: German Spitz (Klein)

SIZE: S

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: L

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: German Spitz (Mittel)

SIZE: M

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: L

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Japanese Shiba Inu

SIZE: M

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Japanese Spitz

SIZE: M

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Lhasa Apso

SIZE: S

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: L

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Mexican Hairless

SIZE: M

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Miniature Schnauzer

SIZE: S

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Poodle (Miniature)

SIZE: M

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: C

TYPE OF DOG: Poodle (Standard)

SIZE: L

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: C

LIFESPAN: C

TYPE OF DOG: Poodle (Toy)

SIZE: S

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: C

TYPE OF DOG: Schnauzer

SIZE: M

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Shar Pei

SIZE: M

GROOMING: L

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Shih Tzu

SIZE: S

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

TYPE OF DOG: Tibetan Spaniel

SIZE: S

GROOMING: M

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: C

TYPE OF DOG: Tibetan Terrier

SIZE: M

GROOMING: C

EXERCISE: M

LIFESPAN: B

CHOOSING A PUPPY

You’ve selected the breed of dog you want, you’ve found a good breeder or rescue centre, and now it’s time to pick the individual puppy you will take home with you. A good breeder will be able to brief you on the personalities of the puppies in a litter and will try to help you choose a dog that will suit your lifestyle. They don’t want to place an extrovert dog with an owner who is looking for a quiet companion; nor do they want to place a very docile, shy dog with someone who intends leading a very active outdoor life with that dog. The consequences of mismatching dogs and their owners can be awful.

Broad personality types are often apparent early on when the litter is first formed. There are the strong characters who dominate the best feeding positions when suckling from the mother’s teats, and there are the weaker members who have been knocked away from these positions and literally have to fight for their food – and their survival. But personality is a more complex matter than this and requires a little study. With the first part of their development well under way, the five or six week mark offers the perfect opportunity to conduct a simple personality test that will answer many of your questions.

There are all sorts of theories about how to conduct personality tests on dogs – many of them bordering on the barbaric. For instance, some people advocate pinching the dog to see how it reacts. I can think of nothing worse. The following three simple tests will give you all the information you need, without resorting to violence or cruelty.

TESTING BY EYE

The first clues about character come early on. By watching which puppies get to the teat first you can spot the dominant characters as well as the shy, retiring ones that get pushed to the back of the litter. This continues as the puppies emerge from under their mother’s wing. As they begin to play and interact, you may notice that one takes toys from another. Is there one that just sits there and watches while the others play? You can see that this dog is a thinker, one who will always weigh up its options in life before making its move.

There are signals in terms of body language too, with some dogs looking to assert themselves by placing their bodies over pups they consider to be subordinate. Of course, testing by eye isn’t going to tell you everything, so there are a couple of physical tests you can try to fill in the picture.

TESTING IN THE PALM OF THE HAND

This is designed to test the puppy’s reaction to being lifted. It will, of course, be used to this by now, but the way it reacts each time speaks volumes.

Lift the puppy off the ground. Place it in the palm of one hand (or two hands if it is a larger breed) and leave it there for ten seconds or so.

• If it goes limp in your hand, it is likely to be a more relaxed personality.

• If it starts to struggle immediately that indicates it is more stubborn and more likely to challenge you. It might also be a sign of a nervous dog.

• If it stays there for a little while then starts to struggle, that indicates a dog who thinks about things first before acting.

TESTING BY LYING THE PUPPY ON ITS BACK

This is designed to test the puppy’s reaction to being turned on its back. As with the palm of the hand test, it is not something you should do for long – ten seconds at the absolute maximum.

Lift the puppy and carefully cradle it in your arms. Placing a hand on each side, lift it up and turn it so it is lying on its back in your arms. Five distinct personality types will reveal themselves as follows.

The defiant one

Some puppies simply will not have it. The moment you turn them over they will immediately right themselves, and they will repeat the process every time you try. This dog is going to grow into a strong character, an alpha type. It will take strong, firm and clear leadership to keep it on the straight and narrow.

The resistance fighter

This one will fight you at first, but will eventually comply and lie on its back, under protest. This again is a dog that may present a few problems, but one who will respond to the right signals.

The thinker

Some puppies will initially lie down willingly. They will stay there for a couple of seconds then spring back upright. This indicates a dog that has weighed up the situation, come to a decision – that it doesn’t like this – and acted upon it. This is a dog that has a lot of courage and intelligence.

The cool customer

Some pups present no resistance whatsoever; they simply go limp and lie there. This is a chilled-out, laid-back individual. With the right guidance, this is going to be a relatively trouble-free dog.

The bundle of nerves

Some puppies will curl up in a ball almost foetally. This is a sure sign of nervousness in the dog. A dog that reacts this way is going to be prone to anxiety attacks when they hear loud noises or are faced with strange situations. In the worst cases, they may develop problems such as wetting themselves. By identifying them as nervous dogs, however, you can factor this personality into your life with the dog and act accordingly, hopefully avoiding problems.

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Choose a dog with a personality type that is going to fit with the lifestyle you want to introduce it to, whether that be noisy city life or a quiet country existence, and you’ll have a head start in getting it to adapt to its new home when it gets there.

CANINE COMPANIONSHIP

Dogs share the human’s sense of family values. In general, they enjoy company, whether human or canine, in the home. This sociable nature may be rooted in their ancient past, when they were forming the first communities with our ancient ancestors. But it may go deeper than that. Why else would man have chosen the wolf above any other creature to domesticate first? Did they see them as more companionable than any other animal? It is food for thought.

If you already have a dog at home and want to introduce a new one, it should be planned with care. Introducing an eight-week-old dog to an existing pack is a relatively straightforward process, but you might have more difficulty with a slightly older dog. Bringing a nine-month-old puppy into a home is the equivalent of introducing a hyperactive 12-year-old child. Older dogs, in particular, may not take kindly to their peace and quiet being disturbed.

There are other factors to consider too, as dogs can find it hard to read signals from breeds that are physically different from them. While a toy Poodle and an Irish Wolfhound will get along together eventually, there may be a great deal of friction because of the huge differences in their physical make-up before they settle into a routine together. There’s more about dogs’ abilities to understand each other’s signals on pages 172–8.

For all these reasons, it is advisable to introduce the new dog to its prospective pack as soon as possible. It would be ideal if you could take the existing dog or dogs to the breeder from where the eight-week-old puppy is coming and introduce them there. This has several obvious advantages. In territorial terms, it is neutral ground. The new arrival will also be amongst people who know and can control it in the event of problems. Most importantly of all, if after a few meetings there is clearly a high degree of friction between the old and new dogs, the potential owner will have the chance to think again.

There’s more on introducing your puppy to any other dogs at home on pages 48–50.

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The vast majority of owners take delivery of their puppy around the age of eight weeks. This is the ideal age for it to make the transition from its litter to a new human environment. As we have seen, a good breeder will have begun the process of weaning the puppy on to solid food and also toilet training it. They will have introduced the puppy to human company by handling and playing with it, and it should respond to its own name. It is now up to you to continue the good work.

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