COPYRIGHT

HarperCollinsPublishers

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First published by HarperCollinsPublishers 2019

FIRST EDITION

Text © Angela Kelly 2019

Cover layout design by Claire Ward © HarperCollinsPublishers 2019

Front jacket image is a composite of two photographs (© Nina Duncan) from the same series taken behind the scenes at a photoshoot by Chris Levine in 2003. Diamanté detail taken from a photograph of Her Majesty The Queen © Barry Jeffery. Back cover photograph supplied by the author.

A catalogue record of this book is available from the British Library

Angela Kelly asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work

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Source ISBN: 9780008368364

Ebook Edition © October 2019 ISBN: 9780008368371

Version 2019-10-28

CONTENTS

COVER

TITLE PAGE

COPYRIGHT

DEDICATION

DEAR READER

LETTER FROM SAMANTHA COHEN CVO

FOREWORD BY STEWART PARVIN MVO

PROLOGUE

Chapter 1: Dressing The Queen

Chapter 2: Our Working Year

Chapter 3: The Eyes of the Nation

Chapter 4: On the Move

Chapter 5: The Eyes of the World

Chapter 6: The Things We Do For Fun

CONCLUSION

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

PICTURE CREDITS

ABOUT THE PUBLISHER

DEDICATION

Your Majesty,

With humble respect I would like to dedicate my second book to you for allowing me to write about our personal working relationship that has grown over many years, and allowing me to share the details of it and to describe how we have come together on a trusted personal level. I will always be truly grateful. I cherish the time you have allowed me to have with you and the friendship you have shown me.

With love and gratitude,

Angela x

I would also like to dedicate this book to my wonderful family: Frank and Nicola Wylie, Paul and Sarah Wylie, Michelle and Simon Anson, and to my very special grandchildren – James and Scarlett Anson, Alex and Jacob Wylie. You have shared the experiences and the journeys with me and you have inspired me all the way to write this book. I could not have done it without you. I thank you so much for all the love, support and advice you give to me and in return I give you all my love and more.

The lesson you all taught me was: never underestimate young minds.

I love you, Granny x x x x

A letter from Angela’s grandson Jacob Wylie

Growing up in Windsor was an immense experience. The sheer bliss, peace and quiet and nature all around you. I am truly grateful to have been able to grow up in a place with such elegance and beauty, all thanks to my granny’s amazing accomplishment. Not many people can say, ‘My granny works for The Queen.’ Every time the subject is brought up I can’t help but brag about my tremendous gran and how proud I am of her. Her triumphs only get bigger and it renders me speechless; the stories and experiences she tells me about her working days astonish me, I could listen for hours. Words don’t even come close to describing how proud I am of my granny!

As I have grown up in Windsor since I was only a couple of weeks old, Windsor is a home for me, in the cosy cottage with the fire and the enormous grounds that lie around it. Ever since me and my brother were little kids, we were both curious about where the roads and paths would lead us, and we would go wandering off for hours exploring the river, bat caves, monkey puzzle tree, farm and bamboo trees. Staying in Windsor or Buckingham Palace is always the highlight of my week, and meeting The Queen is always a dream come true that I am grateful to enjoy. I am enormously proud of my granny and can’t wait to see her future endeavours.

Sincerely,

Jacob Wylie, age 15

A letter from Angela’s grandson Alex P. Wylie

I would just like to say how proud I am of my granny of what she has achieved. All through the fifteen years of my life, actually since my twin, Jacob, and I were a few months old, we have stayed in Marlborough House apartment, and then, when Granny moved to Windsor, into her cottage. We still stay to this day in Windsor and sometimes in Buckingham Palace.

As you can imagine I have the fondest memories that will never leave me. Visiting my gran in the summer is great. I remember on one occasion, when my brother and I were around twelve years old, every evening we would set out walking and I smile now thinking of how many alarms we set off in the grounds of Windsor Castle while we went exploring, looking into the bat caves and many other exciting places, steeped in history.

On another occasion we were playing in The Splash, which is a shallow part of a stream close to the cottage, although The Queen often goes there when she is in Windsor. As Her Majesty got closer she recognised us both, as she knew we were staying at Granny’s cottage. But so did the corgis. They came running up and started chasing us. They were very playful and they soon started playing in the water. Once again words can’t describe how proud I am of my granny for giving us so many magical moments.The memories will remain with me for ever and although we have grown up now, going to Granny’s is special.

Regards,

Alex P. Wylie, age 15

A letter from Angela’s grandson James Anson

When I read of or see my grandmother’s accomplishments, I feel both immense pride for her, and also a strong sense of inspiration in regards to my own goals. It often makes me realise how fortunate I am to be related to someone so talented in their work.

I was fortunate enough, in fact, to spend a lot of time in my childhood at places such as Marlborough House, Buckingham Palace, and Windsor Castle, and I’m thankful not only to be able to have access to such iconic institutions, but also to have made brilliant memories there. One of my favourite places to visit during my childhood was St James’s Park. I still enjoy going there in winter to see the Smews.

I am personally a massive fan of history; I aim to study history at university. In truth, I do owe a vast amount of my love for history to the fact that I have had access to some amazing places of great historical value for my entire life. I’ve formed my own memories in these places as well; memories I will treasure for many years. I realise how unique a position I am in and I’m very grateful to my grandmother for this.

James W. Anson, age 18

A letter from Angela’s granddaughter Scarlett Anson

I have always enjoyed watching Granny work and talking with her about her latest design or projects. I’ve been privileged to see and feel some of the fabrics that have gone on to become outfits. I also spend a lot my time drawing and painting, but I like concept art for video games. I enjoy character design and created my own characters based on myself and people I have read about in books. Granny has inspired me with her skills in colour matching and creating designs so I love to show her my art work to get her feedback.

Yours,

Scarlett Anson, age 13

DEAR READER

It took me some time to start writing this book. When I first asked The Queen if she would mind me writing another book, after Dressing the Queen in 2012, but this time about our close working relationship, I never thought in my wildest dreams that Her Majesty would say yes.

Once the initial shock was over, I found myself struggling. The Queen trusts me and she knows I would not write any intimate details or anything untoward about our friendship and working relationship, but, nevertheless, I still struggled.

I wanted to do this book justice. I wanted to be worthy of writing it, and to share with you the magical and engaging moments that have happened between Her Majesty and myself while we have been working together. The Queen may not have thought them magical, but I did and I still do.

During my twenty-five years to date of working with The Queen, many events and engagements have taken place. Her Majesty travels to and from Buckingham Palace, Windsor Castle, Sandringham House, the Palace of Holyroodhouse and Balmoral Castle, and spends numerous private weekends away, too.

With this book I would like to share with you the wonderful working life and relationship between Her Majesty and me. The Queen and I have fun and laughter, but there is a serious side to my work in which challenging and difficult decisions have to be taken – split-second decisions sometimes. I have to be quick and think on my feet. But it’s all in a day’s work. Someone has to do it – and I’m so glad it’s me.

I hope you enjoy reading this book as much as I did writing it. So, get yourself a cup of tea, sit down, put your feet up, and let me take you on a magical journey once again.

With love,

LETTER FROM SAMANTHA COHEN CVO

29 October 2019

This book documents the unique working relationship between Her Majesty The Queen and the woman who has been her Personal Assistant and Senior Dresser for more than two decades: Angela Kelly.

It gives a rare glimpse into the demands of the job of supporting the Monarch, designing Her Majesty’s clothes and hats, and matching them with exquisite Royal jewellery. Throughout her long reign, Her Majesty has become a fashion icon, renowned for her sense of style and understated elegance. Behind the scenes, Angela has worked quietly with her to create fashion that is unique, accessible to all, and allows The Queen to reflect the trends of the day subtly, and with grace.

The book also reveals the lengthy preparations needed before important State occasions, such as the State Opening of Parliament. Most importantly, though, we gain privileged insight into a successful working relationship, characterised by humour, creativity, hard work, and a mutual commitment to service and duty.

On the many occasions I have worked with Angela in preparing for an important overseas or regional visit in the United Kingdom with Her Majesty, I have been struck by Angela’s endless enthusiasm and original ideas. She tries to make each Royal engagement memorable for those who will be seeing The Queen for the first time

Angela is a talented and inspiring woman, who has captured the highlights of her long career with The Queen for us all to share.

Samantha Cohen CVO

Assistant Private Secretary to The Queen (2011–2018)

FOREWORD

by Stewart Parvin MVO

I first met Angela one morning in the summer of 2001. She had come into my shop in Motcomb Street and was chatting to our saleslady, Gill Edwards. From Angela’s questions it became apparent that she needed a conversation with me. In those days our workroom was in the basement of the shop at Number 14 (previously the home of Royal couturier Ian Thomas), so I was immediately available. I ran upstairs to meet her and discuss her mystery client’s needs. She wanted to look at the quality of our workmanship, and I agreed straight away.

A few days later Angela reappeared and we had a lengthy discussion about fabrics. Her client couldn’t be seen wearing any of the items that we had in the main collection. The easiest way around this, I thought, was for us to pop downstairs and go through our archive: Angela could look at fabrics we had never used or had made into just one or two garments in previous seasons. I saw her delight as we pulled out tweeds, crêpes and silks – our mutual enthusiasm was infectious!

After we had taken cuttings from several rolls, I suggested that a few simple sketches to go with the swatches might help her client decide if I was the person she was looking for. Unbeknown to me, that was the start of our Royal journey.

Shortly afterwards I heard from Angela, who told me that her client liked four fabrics in particular: would it be possible for me to do sketches for each one?

I produced a pile of sketches offering three or four alternatives for each of the selected fabrics and waited for Angela to collect them. A week or so later she telephoned, delighted to tell me that her client had chosen several outfits, and she could now reveal that she herself was Senior Dresser to The Queen. She asked if I would like to make clothes for Her Majesty. After a few seconds’ disbelief I replied with an enthusiastic ‘Yes!’

In the early days, on occasion there might be an urgent request, and the lack of technology in our studio meant that we’d sometimes have to fax a design to Angela’s office to be discussed over the phone. As our relationship developed, Angela would often come to the studio – we later moved to a larger sewing room in West London – and we’d have fun as I proposed fabric combinations, buttons and trims. I would make preliminary sketches, Angela inspiring me with ideas that Her Majesty might like.

By now Angela, who had been creating off-duty clothes for Her Majesty, had started designing more formal outfits with a team of seamstresses at the Palace. I would often pop along to the in-house workroom and offer a helping hand to ease the process along, sometimes suggesting different techniques, interlinings, and other tricks of the trade. Over coffee in her office, Angela would show me her latest finds – such as exquisite laces and embroideries that she’d sourced on her travels and at shops such as London’s Joel & Son. We would drape the beautiful fabrics on stands, coming up with ideas for gowns for Her Majesty. No one knows better than Angela Kelly what is required of a Royal wardrobe, and it makes my end of the process so much easier. While sketching and choosing the ideas to put before Her Majesty, it’s been fascinating to see how Angela’s guiding hand often tends towards a bolder, more glamorous look.

At Joel & Son Fabrics.

These days we often meet at Joel’s as soon as they have their latest collection in stock to select prints that we will propose to Her Majesty. Often we find we’ve chosen the same design. We know, though, that either of us will come up with something fabulous for Her Majesty to wear.

Angela not only creates many wonderful outfits, she’s responsible for The Queen’s complete look. It’s fun to be shown into her millinery workroom, where, under Angela’s watchful eye, Stella McLaren creates so many of the eye-catching hats that Her Majesty now wears.

In fact, on several occasions we’ve worked as a team. Between us, we created the outfit The Queen wore for Prince Harry’s wedding: I designed several options for the coat and dress from the stunning silks Angela had chosen for the event, while Angela created the show-stopping hat that finished the iconic outfit.

We share so many fantastic memories of our times together from the start of our working relationship – when I had no idea who Angela was or who she worked for – to the present day.

When I look back at some of the iconic outfits we have both created, I feel such pride in what Angela and I have achieved.

Me and my pal at Joel & Son in 2019.

The Queen, wearing a Stewart Parvin outfit, with The Duke of Edinburgh during Trooping the Colour in 2016.

The Queen at the State Opening of Parliament in 2014.

PROLOGUE

Crowning Glory

During my twenty-five years of working closely with Her Majesty The Queen, I am lucky enough to have travelled to some of the most amazing places in the world. But one moment in particular makes me emotional every time: the sight of The Queen putting on her Imperial State Crown at the annual State Opening of Parliament. It is a truly special moment for me, and I am so privileged to play a small part in it. Whenever I see Her Majesty in a Diadem or a tiara, I am composed, but when she puts on the crown, it touches my heart.

We are alone behind the privacy screen in the Robing Room in the Houses of Parliament just before The Queen enters the Chamber to make her speech on behalf of her government. We are silent and serious, concentrating hard, and The Queen is deep in thought. When I have positioned the State Robe on her shoulders, she takes the crown off its cushion, and I watch as The Queen raises it above her head. The magnificence of that moment takes my breath away every time. I watch in awe while I wait for her to secure it. Then Her Majesty turns, gives me a smile, and lets me know that she’s ready to go. And for a moment, I am speechless. Luckily I don’t need to say anything and The Queen always says thank you, and I smile back.

The Queen has seen my emotions get the better of me quite a few times. This happens particularly at special events, such as when I dress Her Majesty for important events and State occasions. Once The Queen has the robe on and places the crown on her head, I feel so proud to be serving Her Majesty in such a unique position. Normally The Queen rolls her eyes and playfully tuts at me when she sees my eyes fill up! Even after all these years, I still find it overwhelming to watch her lift the crown. It is the ultimate reminder of just how lucky I am to be in the presence of The Sovereign, Her Majesty The Queen.

The Queen attending Derby Day in 2019

The Ambassadorial Residence in Berlin in 1992.

HOW IT

ALL BEGAN

Well, here I am at a certain age and still running around thinking that I am thirty years old – which my body is telling me I am not! So much has happened in my life – decisions made, paths taken – so let me take you back to where it all began.

It’s hard for me to believe that I was first introduced to Her Majesty The Queen more than twenty-five years ago. I could never have imagined the significance of that meeting. It was my first step along the road to changing my life.

It was 1992, when I was working as Housekeeper for the British Ambassador to Germany, Sir Christopher Mallaby and his lovely wife Pascal, Lady Mallaby, in their Berlin Residence. In June of that year, the Ambassador told me we were expecting a few high-profile VIP guests who were to visit the Residence to see if the house was suitable and large enough to accommodate them all that autumn. The grounds were also to be assessed for security. This was not common practice at the time, so we suspected that someone truly special might be coming. The checks were to be carried out within the month – three months before the possible visit.

The Ambassador trusted me and soon informed me that the guests would in fact be Her Majesty The Queen and His Royal Highness The Duke of Edinburgh, with their accompanying staff. Never in my wildest dreams had I thought I would be looking after members of the Royal Household. During their stay, the guests would require bedrooms, of course, and all meals were to be served at specially agreed times. The Ambassador also explained that many private meetings would be held behind closed doors – meaning that the participants should not be disturbed, unless under extreme circumstances. My role was to ensure that Her Majesty’s personal staff were comfortable, equipped, and had a good working environment. Once I had familiarised myself with their requirements, in terms of any allergies, likes and dislikes with regard to food, I felt content that I could get the job done.

Service with a smile – Berlin, 1992.

October soon came around and the Royal visitors arrived at the Ambassador’s Residence. I remember being introduced to each member of the Royal staff: The Queen’s Page; The Duke’s Valet; the Travelling Yeoman and Miss Peggy Hoath, Her Majesty’s Senior Dresser. I was so impressed by their professionalism: everything was executed with efficiency and precision, from the delivery of the luggage to the unpacking of the cases. Over the course of the next four days, we all got to know each other well, and I spent quite a bit of time with Peggy, who was a lovely lady. She told me she had been The Queen’s Dresser for the last thirty-four years and was now considering her retirement. We agreed to keep in touch.

It wasn’t until the end of their visit that I finally got to meet Her Majesty and The Duke of Edinburgh. Just before our guests departed, The Queen and His Royal Highness said their farewells to the household. I now understand that this is common practice: they like to thank the staff for their assistance in making the visit a success. I remember what a privilege and honour it was to be presented to The Queen and The Duke. I was even given a lovely photograph of them, alongside a beautiful needle case with EIIR inscribed on it.

After I’d thanked them for their thoughtful gift, Her Majesty asked whom we expected next at the Residence. I replied that the information was confidential, and The Duke asked, slightly incredulous: ‘Surely you can tell Her Majesty The Queen?’ Again, I explained that I really could not disclose the information as I had signed the Official Secrets Act, now known as Confidentiality Agreements. I had taken the confidentiality surrounding their visit in a similar way – even carrying a bunch of flowers whenever I left the Residence to trick the surrounding media into thinking I was a florist and so would be unable to provide any intelligence on the high-profile guests inside. In light of this exchange, I offered the photograph and needle case back to Her Majesty and The Duke – I wasn’t sure if it was appropriate to keep them since I’d refused them the information they’d asked for. The Queen simply told me to keep it. I thanked her and His Royal Highness again, and said to Her Majesty The Queen, ‘I will remember this for the rest of my life.’

And the Queen replied, ‘Angela, so will I.’

A few weeks after the Royal visit to the Ambassador’s Residence, I was surprised to receive a phone call out of the blue from Peggy, who asked how I was. I assumed she was just being kind as I’d mentioned to her that I was hoping to come back to England later in the year to start a new chapter of my life after the recent breakdown of my marriage. It was lovely to chat to her and she said she would call me again before I left Berlin.

It was just a couple of days later when I next heard from Peggy. She said that Her Majesty had requested she get in touch to ask would I consider coming to work at Buckingham Palace? To say that I was shocked would be an understatement. I told Peggy I was still making arrangements to return to England but that I would consider the offer of a position carefully.

Several weeks later, when I was finally settled back in Sheffield with my family, Peggy rang to ask if I had an answer for her about applying for the Assistant Dresser role. I discussed the prospect at length with my family to make sure they were happy with my entering into this commitment, because it would be almost like a marriage and would therefore affect all of our lives. But there really was only one answer to give: a very enthusiastic yes from us all.

I could give one half of myself to my children, and the other half to the life I was about to enter.

MY LIFE

A couple of months after I had accepted Peggy’s invitation to interview for the position of Assistant Dresser, I found myself en route to Buckingham Palace to meet with Lady Susan Hussey and the Honourable Miss Mary Morrison, two of The Queen’s Ladies-in-Waiting. As with any interview, I had spent quite a lot of time thinking about what to wear. I was certain this interview was for these two ladies to look me over and check me out, and that everyone in the Palace would be an intimidating, impeccably dressed aristocrat. When I first received the letter inviting me to Buckingham Palace for the interview I went into panic mode. Those famous words of ‘what on earth will I wear?’ came to mind – I already had lovely clothes, but I thought that a more conservative outfit was needed. So I made the rather rash decision to sell my washing machine so that I could afford an appropriately smart outfit. I chose a crisp cream blouse with navy spots and a long skirt, and wore a string of pearls. Normally I wear dresses to my knees, but for the interview I thought a long skirt would be more appropriate. I did struggle to walk and I looked like a good take on Miss Marple, with my skirt wrapped around my legs. I arrived at the Privy Purse Door, which is the main entrance at the front of Buckingham Palace, at 11.30am and was welcomed in. Trembling with nerves, I was taken to the Ladies-in-Waiting sitting room.

As I waited, I couldn’t help but reflect on how I had ended up there: a divorced single mother from humble beginnings in Liverpool was on her way to interview for a position working with Her Majesty The Queen.

When I think about my early childhood, most of my memories seem to be anchored in and around the back room of our house. I was born in a small street in Liverpool, facing Stanley Park, between two famous football grounds: Everton and Liverpool. We lived in a two-up-two-down terraced house, and it was a very happy home. My mother sewed and my father was in the Merchant Navy.

The back room of our house was a hive of activity; a place for chatting, listening to the radio, eating, and, crucially, it was also frequently transformed into a sewing room. My mother, Teresa, was a very smart, elegant, and glamorous lady, although I remember her blushing and shying away from compliments. She was not shy when it came to the sewing machine, though, and she had a raw talent and natural flair for clothes design. I’m sure her skills were recognised by my maternal grandmother, who taught her the art of dressmaking when she was still very young. When she grew up, my mum joined the army’s Auxiliary Territorial Service. Funnily enough, then as the Princess Elizabeth, The Queen also joined the Auxiliary Territorial Service in 1945, and was the first female member of the Royal Family to join the Armed Services as a full-time active member. My mum worked with the Service until she fell in love with my father, Thomas, and left to marry him. They had two sons, my brothers Tommy and Tony, before I came along, then another two sons, John and Terry, and a second daughter, my sister Donna Maria. With so many young children to care for, my dad left the Merchant Navy and took up a job as a crane driver on the Liverpool docks so that he could be closer to home.

Clockwise: My first Holy Communion, age 7; my mum, Teresa, in the Auxillary Territorial Service; me and my dad at home in Liverpool.

My father was good-looking, quiet, and a gentleman. He was caring, loved, and respected by his family and all who knew him. When we were little, he was always tricking us. Perhaps he would shout, ‘Would you like a Quality Street?’ And we’d all come running, yelling, ‘Yes!’ And he would be standing in front of the television, and a Quality Street advert would be on, and he’d say, ‘Ah, you missed it.’ But every Friday, when he collected his wages, he’d go to the shop to buy the Liverpool Echo and a Mars Bar each for everyone.

We did not have much in the way of material possessions when we were growing up, but the house was filled with love, laughter, and kindness, and my mum insisted that our family take pride in everything we did. She was excellent at teaching by example and took meticulous care of every piece of clothing she created, which included my school uniform skirt and grey bib. She was endlessly generous with her time, and whenever the back room was not being used to entertain visitors, it became a fitting room, as well as a sewing room, for all those who came to her for new outfits. From wedding and bridesmaids’ dresses – beautifully crisp gowns, perfectly cut and adorned with little rosebuds – to school uniforms to help out the children in the neighbourhood, nothing was too challenging, and I vividly remember watching her work on that well-oiled Singer sewing machine. In fact, aged eight, maintaining that precious machine was my first task as an assistant dressmaker. I learned how to strip it down before cleaning it thoroughly and oiling certain components that were likely to stick. I would also check the rubber belt religiously, making sure it was not wearing out, and grease the treadle to make sure it moved up and down easily. When I had mastered all of this, I was finally shown how to load the shuttle, place it in the machine, and thread the needle.

Having perfected that important task, I was soon being shown how to cross-stitch for embroidering napkins, how to sew hems by hand and make elasticated waists – all crucial skills that still come in handy today. My mum was a thrifty woman (which I know Her Majesty would appreciate) and showed me how to make carpet rugs from old coats. We would cut the coats into strips, then double them and use an old peg to push the strips through the rug’s hessian backing to form a loop. However, it was when my mum was measuring her customers that I would pay close attention. I was fascinated to see how accurately she used her tape measure, which I still have to this day, and how confidently she cut and joined her patterns.

Not only did my mum have an extraordinary talent for dressmaking, she was generous when family and neighbours were in difficulty, especially when someone had passed away. I remember her visiting other people’s houses, and helping make their front room look beautiful for the family to mourn their loved one. She would take several white sheets with her and quickly get to work; I would watch her pleat the sheets and use small nails to keep them in place on the walls to make the room into a sort of chapel of rest into which the coffin would be brought. I also recall watching my mother lay out the body when a family member passed away. She was so gentle and caring, and it seemed such a natural thing to do, and it helped to ease the pain of the family and other mourners.

I wanted to be just like her, so it’s not surprising that my first paid job was in a sewing factory at the age of fifteen, working on the buttonhole machine. A few years later, when I got married and had children, I would make outfits for my family, but it was only when I started working with Her Majesty that I truly understood how indebted I am to the influence, knowledge, and guidance of my mum in those humble beginnings.

Me and Nettie at Windsor Castle before Royal Ascot in 2000.

Nettie

I value so many people in my life, whether they be close or acquaintances. Nevertheless, they are important to me. Throughout my time of twenty-five years working for the Royal Household, Annette Wilkin, also known as Nettie, was my true friend from day one when I first started at Windsor Castle.

Nettie was The Queen’s Housekeeper of Windsor Castle for over forty years. During Nettie’s time as Housekeeper, The Queen gifted her with a corgi pup called Larch, who became Nettie’s most loyal companion. After she retired as Housekeeper, Nettie came to work on the Dressers’ Floor the very next day. For the last five years of her life, Nettie worked for The Queen archiving and photographing The Queen Mother’s wardrobe.

I wish my friend was here today so that she could share with me the ending of this book. Sadly, Nettie passed away in May 2019. I was with her throughout her illness as well as being a support to her loving brother, Andre, who was always there for her.

It was an honour to care for Nettie during this difficult time, although she still had her wicked sense of humour about her. Even when she was first rushed into hospital, her humour was there. I was with Nettie when the nursing sister was asking for her name. Annette was having a hard time breathing, so I answered the question by saying, ‘Annette Wilkin’. It took all that Nettie had to say, ‘No! It’s Gwendoline Annette Wilkin.’ I almost fell out of the chair. I was shocked! For twenty-five years I had been calling her Annette or Nettie. So, Nettie had the last laugh.

When Nettie passed away I felt as though my mother was with me, keeping me calm and focused, as I helped prepare Annette’s body to be laid out. I gave her a big hug and kiss. I’ll never forget my best buddy. I miss you my friend.

Nettie and her corgi, Larch.

The gates of Buckingham Palace.

MISS KELLY

Dedicated to Miss Peggy Hoath – who was my mentor and taught me to reach for the highest of standards.

The interview at Buckingham Palace that day went well, and I felt confident in my new outfit. Lady Susan Hussey and Miss Morrison seemed satisfied that I was the right person for the job. I would be reporting to Miss Peggy Hoath. After a lovely chat I was taken along the red-carpeted corridor to The Queen’s private rooms, where I was to meet Her Majesty once again. This was where my life changed immediately. Obviously I cannot reveal the conversation, but I can say that it was lovely to see her again.

With all the arrangements made, I was soon walking through the gates of Buckingham Palace again, suitcase in hand, ready to start my new life.

My first day at the Palace was 31 March 1994, and I learned my first important lesson about life with Her Majesty: be prepared for anything. I was taken upstairs to the Dressers’ Floor by the Footman who was kindly helping me with my suitcases. I was going to start unpacking, but Peggy had other plans. She was waiting for me on the corridor, took one look at the Footman and another at my suitcases and told him to put them with the rest of the luggage. Peggy said, ‘Angela, don’t get comfortable. We’re off to Windsor for a month. There, I’ll introduce you to the ironing board!’ And I was! As soon as we arrived, Peggy said, ‘Ironing board, meet your new owner!’

After settling into my new job as an Assistant Dresser, my first task was to acquaint myself with Her Majesty’s wardrobe. Each piece was exquisitely made with such close attention to detail. I also discovered an abundance of material – beautiful silks and chiffons that had been presented to Her Majesty as gifts and stored away safely for future use.

Before long, I started to receive unwanted questions about my marital status from other members of the Royal Household. My predecessors had all been known as ‘Miss’ and were typically unmarried women. Although I was divorced, I was still known as Mrs Kelly. Feeling vulnerable and scrutinised, I decided to seek advice from The Queen. We had become more familiar with each other over the months and I felt comfortable in approaching her, not just because her guidance on the delicate matter would be the most authoritative but also because we had quickly established a rapport. So, I went to see The Queen and explained that I had been receiving prying comments because of my married title, which I had kept as an acknowledgement of my past relationship. Her Majesty advised that if I was known as Mrs Kelly, I should be prepared for questions about where my husband was, whether he minded me travelling and working away from home. It was time to look to the future and, on reflection, I realised that my role with Her Majesty was my new priority. From then on, I would be known as Miss Kelly.

With Miss Peggy Hoath on Britannia during the VE Celebrations in 1995.

Now, let me introduce you to the ironing board, dear reader! Taken in the workroom at Buckingham Palace.

EDUCATING

ANGELA

In those early years at Buckingham Palace, I remember feeling very aware that some people might look down on me. I was, after all, from Liverpool and had a Scouse accent, not to mention that I was divorced with three children, and possibly not the ideal candidate to be working for The Queen. Even though I knew Her Majesty had particularly requested me after her visit to the British Ambassador’s Residence in Berlin, I thought other people might not understand why I was chosen: they might think I did not belong, and I wanted to be able to hold my own.

I’ve always wanted to speak nicely. I’m not sure I can say why. It’s not because I want to improve myself, just that I’ve always admired people who speak clearly. I don’t have a strong Liverpudlian accent, but it is there. I had wanted elocution lessons since I was eight years old, and I remember asking the Ambassador in Berlin whether I could take them. He offered me a pay rise and a promotion instead, but I refused as I didn’t want money all I wanted was to feel more at ease with how I presented myself to others – especially now among members of the Royal Household.

Needless to say, when I first started working with The Queen, I became even more aware of how I sounded. Listening to and speaking with Her Majesty, I would think, how wonderful to be able to speak so nicely, and after a few months of working with her, I plucked up the courage to ask if she knew anyone who might give me the elocution lessons I’d wanted for so long. The look on The Queen’s face was a picture. She simply asked, ‘Why?’ After I had explained, she said that it was not necessary and that she’d heard about my plan – the Ambassador had told her. I asked again and again, but she still refused. After much back and forth, Her Majesty eventually told me to go upstairs and talk to the Duchess of Grafton about it.

I ran up straight away, and found the Duchess waiting for me in the corridor. ‘Your Grace, I was wondering if you could put me in contact with anyone you know who could give me elocution lessons,’ I said.

The Duchess started laughing and I realised The Queen had called her in the time it had taken me to run up the stairs. ‘Look, Angela,’ she said, ‘if you speak slowly, it means you speak clearly. Just keep The Queen laughing – that’s all I ask of you.’ But that still wasn’t enough for me.

Later that day, I went back to see The Queen and mentioned that I’d spoken to the Duchess. ‘Oh, and what did she say?’ she asked. I repeated the advice I’d been given and Her Majesty seemed content. ‘Well, there you go,’ she said.

‘But that’s not an elocution lesson,’ I responded, then told Her Majesty my new idea: ‘You can give me elocution lessons! You can tell me what I say that’s correct and what I say that isn’t.’

The Queen could probably sense that I wasn’t going to give up, so she instructed me to say one word: ‘furious’. ‘Fyer-ri-ous,’ I responded.

‘No, fee-or-ree-ous,’ said Her Majesty, in perfect received pronunciation. After several more attempts, I finally cracked it and Her Majesty exclaimed, ‘Yes!’ and her finger went up in the air, followed shortly by, ‘Not sick as a parrot’. And that was it – my one and only elocution lesson, and from The Queen herself. From then on, I listened and tried my best to speak properly – even adding an aitch to words where it didn’t exist – but in the end I gave up: it was just too much effort. Ever since I’ve stuck to being myself, a girl from Liverpool and a proud Liverpudlian, too.

In The Splash with the dogs in Windsor Home Park in 1998.

LET ME TAKE

YOU AMONG THE

NIGHT STARS

In August 1994, four months after I had started working for The Queen, it was time for my first trip to Balmoral. Needless to say, I was very excited whenever one of these ‘firsts’ came around: my first visit to Windsor, my first trip on the Royal Train, my first Trooping the Colour. But I was particularly looking forward to seeing Balmoral Castle, where the Royal Family take their holiday each year. I was intrigued to see whether Her Majesty would have time to relax – to me, it seemed that she never stopped working.

On our first night, I remember gazing up at the night sky and noticing how brightly the stars shone out from the darkness. I’d always loved star-gazing and I find it a very calming experience. I vividly recall thinking how lucky I was to be standing in the majestic grounds of that historic building. A few days later, I relayed this to Her Majesty, with whom I now felt quite comfortable to enjoy some casual chat, and told her how much I loved gazing at the stars. It turned out that The Queen shared this passion and we looked out of the window into the darkness together. She pointed out the various constellations – the Plough, Ursa Major and Cassiopeia – and I mentioned that I had brought a telescope with me, a present from my family for my fortieth birthday. Her Majesty suggested that as it was a very clear, cold night, I should wrap up, go outside, and stand in front of the Castle shortly before midnight for the best view. I pointed out that the police probably wouldn’t appreciate me setting off all the alarms in the middle of the night, so instead, I asked if I could take a car to drive up to the Glenshee – one of the Highlands’ highest peaks. The Queen thought I was crazy and was reluctant to let me drive there alone, so she asked one of her duty protection officers to escort me.

Equipped with my telescope, its stand, binoculars, and a flask of coffee, my slightly begrudging escort and I made our way into the night. On top of Glenshee, the view was breathtaking. With the headlights turned off and the protection officer freezing in the car, I started scanning the sky and admiring the stars and constellations. It was the very first time I ever saw the Milky Way and I remember feeling quite emotional. Eventually I was persuaded by the officer to return to the Castle, but I had my head through the sun roof throughout the journey back, wielding my binoculars, reluctant to say goodbye to the stars. The next morning, I was full of excitement. I rushed up to Her Majesty and could not stop talking about how wonderful the experience had been. She must have thought, thank goodness it will be a while before she does that again. But every time I return to Balmoral, before I go to sleep, I open my bedroom window and gaze at the sky for several minutes. It always reminds me of that conversation with Her Majesty when I discovered a shared passion and the fact that, because of her thoughtful gesture, I saw the Milky Way for the first time.

Taking a walk in Balmoral grounds in 1998 – note the high heels!

Beauty within the castle grounds.

The Queen at a State Banquet in 2011.

LEADING LADIES

As I began to settle into life in the Palace, I knew it was important to start standing my ground and fighting my corner. When I was asked to do something, I did it efficiently and thoroughly, but I soon became aware that I was also ruffling feathers.

Back then, the Royal Household was very male dominated. It had long been a place where traditions were upheld and routines were followed. On one occasion, I remember being told that only after twelve years as a staff member would I be allowed to have an opinion. Needless to say, I was not happy with this – I would only ever act in Her Majesty’s best interests and yet I often felt patronised and belittled.

As I began to get to know Her Majesty, I could not help but reflect on her role as a female monarch. I thought too of Queen Victoria, who ascended the throne at the very young age of eighteen, and the responsibility she bore. Victoria ruled alongside governments where all their members were men, and although Her Majesty’s reign has seen a greater female presence politically, she must also have felt the same pressure to prove herself as a young, recently married female monarch. In the face of condescension and old-fashioned attitudes, I found inspiration in The Queen and the women who ruled before her and was determined to defend my right to be heard as a member of the Royal Household.

I now know that my tendency to be forthright was a breath of fresh air for many of my colleagues, but it took me quite some time to learn the right approach when it came to expressing myself. In fact, I even became known as AK47 and The Queen’s Gatekeeper, which I take as a compliment as it demonstrates my determination to be taken seriously.

Even now, after twenty-five years, I still admire The Queen as a strong, powerful woman and I find great inspiration not only in her courage, but also in her humility and gentle humour. She has taught me so much over the years and has always encouraged me to stay true to myself while being open to the opinions of others, even if I don’t share them. I know that her guidance has made me a better person, and for that I am eternally grateful.

The Queen and King Yang Dipertuan Agong of Malaysia during the Commonwealth Games in Kuala Lumpur in 1998.

BACK TO FRONT

OR FRONT TO

BACK?

I’ve learned countless new skills and techniques during my years working for The Queen. Even now I face new challenges when it comes to creating Her Majesty’s outfits, but I always keep one thing in mind on a day-to-day basis: to trust my instincts. I learned this valuable lesson soon after I joined the Royal Household, and one memorable occasion will stay with me as a reminder of how important it is to speak up.

A year after Peggy Hoath retired, in the autumn of 1995, I was promoted to Senior Dresser. Peggy had worked for The Queen for over thirty-five years, and knew all the tricks of the trade. Her standards were so high that I thought I would never be able to reach them. But I listened and learned, and everything she taught me is still carried out to this day.

Then, in 1998, although I wasn’t yet in charge of designing The Queen’s wardrobe, I did assist in choosing appropriate outfits for each occasion. We were planning for Her Majesty’s upcoming tour of Malaysia, where she would be closing the Commonwealth Games in Kuala Lumpur. As the weather is so warm over there, it was decided that Her Majesty would wear a dress but no jacket or coat, and she chose a vibrant deep coral for the outfit and matching hat. Designs were drawn up and a brief was sent to the milliner. Sketches were done for the hat and, due to Her Majesty’s busy schedule, the hat was delivered at the last minute. Her Majesty didn’t have a chance to try it on and I didn’t have a chance to look it over before it was packed up.

On the day of the ceremony, I was helping Her Majesty get ready and went to take the hat out of the box in which it had been carefully packed. As soon as I had it in my hands, I knew, deep down, that it was not going to suit The Queen. With a commanding shell-like brim and a very large flower on the reverse, it was certainly an interesting and beautifully made piece, but I had a gut feeling that it would not complement the outfit or enhance Her Majesty’s features. I was also very aware that The Queen was going to give a speech that would be broadcast live on television and that the world’s media would be paying close attention, as always, to what she was wearing.

As the morning went on, I became increasingly worried, so I decided I had to raise my concern and face the consequences later. So, I waited for The Queen to come into the dressing room, took a deep breath, and said, ‘Your Majesty, I don’t think you should wear this hat. It is not the right design for you and it won’t suit you.’ A long silence followed before she eventually looked up and said, ‘Well, it’s a bit late now. What else can I wear? I must wear it.’

Although I admired her pragmatic approach, I was insistent. I told her I had been examining the hat from all angles and that it would be better worn back to front. The Queen couldn’t believe that this would work. I told her that, if she did not believe me, she should consult The Duke of Edinburgh, as he always tells her the truth. At this point, I left the room feeling somewhat terrified, as you can imagine.

Before long, Her Majesty called me back. She had consulted His Royal Highness and, after an amusing conversation, in which I imagine The Duke didn’t hold back, The Queen had decided to wear the hat the wrong way around, as I had suggested. She was, however, very concerned that the milliner might be upset. I told her not to worry and that I would think of an explanation for when we returned to London.

I remember feeling so relieved and proud when Her Majesty stepped out onto the stage to deliver her speech that day. The press admired her outfit: the hat had a wonderful 1940s feel to it, with the large flower sitting high at the top. During The Queen’s speech, I was holding my breath – not because I was concerned for her but because I was eager to hear whether she was happy with her last-minute decision to turn the hat. Sure enough, when she came to see me after the event, she greeted me with a lovely smile. No words were needed. It was in moments like these that I knew Her Majesty and I would make a great team. I was so proud that I’d voiced my concern, and I think The Queen appreciated it, too.

So, dear reader, what do you think? Was it back to front, or front to back? Or, in fact exactly the right way around?

Top: The ‘front’. Bottom: The ‘back’, but so much more stylish.

The Queen and Pope John Paul II during a State Visit to the Vatican in 2000.

MEETING HIS

HOLINESS

THE POPE

After the incident with the back-to-front hat at the Commonwealth Games closing ceremony, I became more determined to speak up when it came to matters of Her Majesty’s wardrobe. I had worked so hard to familiarise myself with what Her Majesty liked to wear and, crucially, what was appropriate for The Queen to wear to any given engagement. However, speaking up and being heard wasn’t always easy, as one particular incident taught me.

It was the year 2000 and Her Majesty was due to travel to Rome on a four-day State Visit. I wasn’t yet responsible for attending recces ahead of such trips, so it was the Private Secretaries who on their return outlined the provisional engagements that The Queen would be attending. On one day Her Majesty would be meeting with His Holiness the Pope, after which there would be a private engagement, and so they suggested The Queen would be fine to wear a normal day dress for both events. Straight away, I knew this would be a mistake. Whenever Her Majesty had visited the Pope previously she had always, without fail, worn a long black dress, a beautiful diamond tiara and a long mantilla lace veil. Having been brought up Catholic, I knew instinctively that a day dress simply would not be appropriate and so I expressed this to the Secretaries, who made it clear that my advice wasn’t welcome.

Feeling ignored and patronised, I decided to discuss the matter with Her Majesty directly. I told her that the Private Secretaries had advised that she should wear a colourful day dress to meet with the Pope as it could then also be worn to her next engagement. I insisted that this would not be appropriate for meeting with His Holiness. As always, The Queen listened, however, once she had discussed the matter again with her Private Secretaries, they still insisted that a colourful day dress should be worn. In response, I asked her to go back to the Secretaries and ask them to do their homework. I considered it to be bad advice. I sensed that Her Majesty was starting to feel torn as to whose advice to take.

Confident in the knowledge that I would be standing my ground, regardless of what the Secretaries said, I came up with a secret plan. While preparing for the upcoming tour, I selected one of Her Majesty’s favourite outfits – something I knew she would feel comfortable in – and requested that one of the dressmakers, Maureen Rose, create something in exactly the same style but in navy blue, and to send the invoice only to me. There would be no fittings on this occasion as I did not want to alert anyone to my plan. In addition, I approached Freddie Fox, the milliner at the time, and asked him to design a pillbox-style hat with a detachable veil and that the invoice must also be sent directly to me.

I spoke with Her Majesty one final time before the tour. Once again, I told her that I was certain the Vatican would not have suggested that a day dress would be appropriate. I remember The Queen asking if I had ever been to the Vatican before and how I could be so sure of my advice. I hadn’t, but said the reason I knew was because I was brought up a strong Catholic and that if The Queen turned up for such an important meeting in a day dress, where would it all end? I felt that standards would start slipping. Would guests just turn up to the Investitures in a cotton dress and pumps because they felt more comfortable? I insisted once more that the Pope would not expect guests to arrive in such informal dress. I simply would not dress The Queen this way and at this point, Her Majesty just wanted the matter to be sorted. I had to carry off my plan perfectly.

Three months later, we were in Rome and I went about unpacking Her Majesty’s clothes and arranging her outfits for the upcoming engagements. Soon enough, the day of her visit to the Pope arrived and I heard my name being called loudly down the corridor: I will never forget the sight of the Private Secretary frantically running down one of the longest corridors in the Quirinale Palace, bellowing my name, ‘Angela, Angela, quick!’, and wearing his brown jumper, brown corduroy trousers, brown socks but no shoes! He demanded to know what The Queen would be wearing that day. I calmly informed him that Her Majesty would be wearing a shocking pink outfit, as advised by him and the Assistant Private Secretaries, which did little to calm his panicked state. ‘Don’t you always travel with a black outfit?’ he asked, and I replied that I had not on this occasion. In fact, we do always travel with a black outfit in case of an unexpected sad occasion, but I wasn’t going to let him know that after what he had put me through. I told him not to worry and that Her Majesty would still look beautiful.

He then sent a message to The Queen asking what should be done, as the Vatican had said that the outfit must be dark. Shortly afterwards, The Queen sent for me and asked if we had any dark outfits that she could wear instead. ‘Okay, Your Majesty,’ I said, ‘I’ll show you something.’ And with that, I produced the navy-blue dress and pillbox hat that I had had secretly made before casually commenting that, ideally, the outfit would be black for a meeting with the Pope. Her Majesty agreed and without a moment of hesitation, I produced the exact same dress and veiled hat in black. ‘Luckily enough,’ I said, ‘I also had this made. So you’re absolutely fine.’ I vividly remember the brief look of relief on The Queen’s face.

The two versions of the dress that I had secretly had made.

Watching Her Majesty walk out in her stylish, modern and appropriate black outfit to meet His Holiness the Pope, I felt so proud of myself for having faith in my convictions. The Queen walked out dressed appropriately in her new black outfit as Head of the Church of England meeting another head of the church, His Holiness the Pope. I had known all along that my instincts about The Queen’s outfit that day were right, even though I wasn’t being listened to. From then on, I felt confident that my opinion would be heard.

Eventually I found out that the private engagement was a photograph of The Queen with members of the Royal Household outside the Sistine Chapel, and the Private Secretaries wanted Her Majesty to wear a normal day dress so that it looked like a fun day out, as the Royal Household wouldn’t be dressed in black. This photograph moment had been prioritised above that important private meeting with His Holiness.

In 2014, The Queen met privately with the Pope during a visit to Rome. I had the honour and privilege to be presented to His Holiness. This was extremely special for me. I was holding my rosary beads when the Pope touched my hands to bless them, and I knew my mother would have been so proud of me.

A little colour makes all the difference. At Joel & Son Fabrics in 2019.

FINDING

MY FEET

As my role progressed, I spent more and more time working on Her Majesty’s wardrobe and I started to notice that many of her outfits were made in similar colours. The Queen was wearing a lot of dark green, navy, and red, and I had also noticed that some of the older pieces – the stunning Hardy Amies evening gowns, for example – which had been the height of fashion a few years before, had begun to look a little tired. Spending time with The Queen had allowed me to understand better her likes and dislikes, and I sensed that she would enjoy more vibrant colours and some fresher designs. At this point Her Majesty’s outfits were still only made by designers and dressmakers outside the Palace.

On one occasion I mentioned to The Queen that the designers should be looking at brighter colours and new designs, but who was I to tell them? I had been Senior Dresser for a couple of years and in that time had become more confident, talking to The Queen more about her outfits. I think The Queen knew that I was loyal and would only ever be honest with her. I could not help thinking that The Queen’s style needed to change quickly, before she was made to look older than she was – which was what some of the old designs did. Some of the coats and dresses also had to be made shorter, as The Queen still had, and still does have, a good figure and excellent legs.

One day, The Queen invited me to join her the next time a designer, his team and the milliner came in for a fitting. I was slightly taken aback as I wouldn’t usually be present for fittings; usually I just saw the dressmakers into the room and would leave them to it, but this time I was asked to stay. I was also quite anxious as I knew I couldn’t hide my feelings very well: if an outfit did not suit Her Majesty, the expression on my face would make it clear to everyone what I thought. Even worse, if The Queen asked my advice, I would be forced to dismiss an outfit in front of its designer, or the hat in front of its milliner. Her Majesty would never want to hurt anyone’s feelings, even if I didn’t mind, and I would have to be honest about my opinion for her sake. Little did I know that this moment was yet another stepping stone for me, another door opening.

With the fitting under way, as I’d anticipated, the expression on my face started to give everything away and Her Majesty asked my opinion. This question didn’t go down well with everyone in the room. With bated breath they all turned to me for my answer and waited, and I could see the shock across their faces as I told them my thoughts: the hats were too masculine and their patterns too large. In terms of the outfits, The Queen needed something more chic, fitted and elegant. There was a shocked silence in the room after I spoke. I suspected that I would never be invited back, and I imagine the designer and milliner hoped as much, but Her Majesty continued to request my presence at fittings, to the dread of those designers. I became their worst nightmare.

I vividly remember one fitting where The Queen was draped in a very large piece of bold, jacquard material in a large print. Even a six-foot-tall model would have struggled to pull off something like that, and it absolutely drowned Her Majesty. Once again, I could not hide my disapproval when Her Majesty asked my thoughts. Without hesitation, I said, ‘No way! It doesn’t suit you at all and it is totally the wrong pattern.’ An awkward silence and an icy atmosphere descended on the room. Everyone in sequence turned their heads towards me with what felt like daggers in their eyes, except for The Queen who stared straight ahead and goodness knows what she was thinking. The atmosphere was ice cold. Just at that moment, The Duke of Edinburgh happened to walk past and Her Majesty asked what he thought of the material, knowing that, like mine, his feedback is always honest. ‘Is that the new material for the sofa?’ he joked, before continuing on his way. I excused myself, left the room, and privately punched the air with delight. I composed myself, then walked back into the dressing room where I noticed the material was being folded and put away unused. The Queen was thanking the designers and the milliner for their time and they left the room.

Shortly after that fitting, and experiencing my honesty, Her Majesty asked me to draw some of my own designs for what I thought she should wear. I told her I couldn’t – it had been a long time since I had sketched any outfits. ‘If I wanted an artist, I would hire one,’ The Queen said jokingly. And with that, I began rummaging through the parcels of gift materials, taking samples to show Her Majesty the wealth of beautiful silks and glorious patterns that she already had in her stockroom. Then I showed her some quickly drawn sketches of more fitted, stylish pieces. Thanks to my mum, I’d already had extensive training on the necessary skills but I was a little out of practice. I needed to refresh my memory quickly, considering that it was Her Majesty’s outfits I would be working on. Each was inspired by my own love of fashion and my mother’s elegant wardrobe – her perfectly tailored skirts and jackets. Sometimes I channelled the sensibility of my aunt Edwina – a designer, tailor, and dressmaker, who liked to dress more daringly. She was the first woman I saw in a transparent black chiffon blouse. The Queen saw my drawings of the designs, along with samples of the beautiful materials already being stored upstairs, and accepted them. The Queen liked the designs and suggested that we employ a machinist to help me. Before long, Her Majesty’s wardrobe was being revitalised as, piece by piece, vibrant colours and stylish cuts made their way onto the rails. More to the point, The Queen was happy. It is an honour to be the first ever in-house Designer to Her Majesty The Queen.

Her Majesty wore this for her 90th birthday in Windsor in 2016.

The symbolic 'Girls of Great Britian and Ireland' Tiara is one of my favourite pieces.

THE QUEEN’S

JEWELLERY

Before long, my role as Senior Dresser and Designer for Her Majesty evolved. Owing to the strength of my relationship with The Queen and the mutual respect we shared, in 1998 I was given the additional titles of Personal Advisor and Curator to Her Majesty The Queen. I still continued to design outfits for Her Majesty, and did this mainly in the evenings and at weekends. As Personal Advisor, I am in the privileged position of not only advising The Queen on her outfits and hats, but also looking after Her Majesty’s health and well-being, and communicating with her team of expert professors and doctors.

As Curator, I would be responsible for The Queen’s personal jewellery and certain pieces from the Crown Jewels, as well as The Queen’s Insignia. It is a great honour and privilege to be entrusted with the care of The Queen’s private jewellery and to help select items that are worn on a daily basis.

One of the first things I wanted to do in this new role as Curator was to find a jeweller with whom I could build a relationship, as the previous Crown Jeweller was due to retire. They would oversee one of the rarest collections of gems and historical pieces, some of which have never been seen, and would need to be extremely knowledgeable about the repair and restoration of antique jewellery. And, as is the case with all staff members in the Royal Household, they would need to be very discreet.

Having discussed this idea with Her Majesty, who agreed, I knew exactly where to begin my search; the Royal Palace itself, which often proved to be a fountain of knowledge. Not wanting to rouse anyone’s suspicions, I mentioned to several people that I was looking to commission a jeweller to design something for myself, and time and time again the same name was suggested: Mr Harry Collins from G. Collins & Sons, who was based in Royal Tunbridge Wells, Kent. Her Majesty often chooses smaller, family-run businesses to work with and was not in the slightest bit bothered by the fact that Mr Collins was based outside of London, so a date was soon set for him to come to Buckingham Palace and bring a selection of his work.

A week later, a very anxious Mr Collins arrived for his appointment, unaware that I had arranged for Her Majesty to join us. Shortly before The Queen’s arrival, I asked him to display his silverware on the table and wait outside the room. Understandably, Harry seemed a little unnerved as he left. Her Majesty joined me to review his work and she was keen to purchase a few salvers and trinkets, so I proceeded to go and bring Mr Collins back into the room. I had to put him under pressure to see how he would cope, especially if I gave him a particular piece of jewellery from The Queen’s collection. I needed to be sure that he would be able to work under stress if necessary.

I always find it fascinating to see how differently people respond on first meeting The Queen. Unsurprisingly, Mr Collins was rather taken aback, and after the formal introductions, he began to discuss his work with Her Majesty, going into detail about his style and techniques. The Queen kept glancing in my direction and I knew from the look on her face that she was happy – this was her seal of approval and a signal to present Mr Collins with a beautiful leather fitted case which contained the Vladimir Tiara.

The Vladimir Tiara is made up of fifteen intertwined diamond-set ovals from which hang pendant pearls. The pearls can be interchanged with emeralds.

I brought the case in and placed it on the table. Then I opened the box and took out the tiara, handing it to Mr Collins and explaining what was needed. Mr Collins delicately took the tiara from me and held it as gently as one would hold a baby. Carefully turning the headpiece to examine its diamonds and pear-shaped, cabochon-cut emeralds, he was clearly transfixed and I noticed that he kept staring at the tiara and Her Majesty in turn. It struck me that he was frozen to the spot – still smiling, but saying no words: it was as though he had stage fright. Luckily, The Queen is very adept in these situations and simply flashed Mr Collins a huge smile which helped snap him out of his trance.

‘Mr Collins,’ Her Majesty said calmly, ‘do you think you would be able to alter the casting on the drops of the emeralds?’ Harry agreed, so I asked how much the re-casting would cost. ‘Not much,’ was his response, so I asked again. Once again, his response was vague and he looked nervously towards Her Majesty, only for her to say, ‘Don’t look at me, Angela does the money’. Putting Mr Collins under pressure, I asked one final time, ‘Please can you give me an estimate, Mr Collins?’ and he finally quoted a price which was agreeable to everyone.

The pearls for the Vladimir Tiara are kept in numbered pouches and it can take nearly an hour to change them.

Mr Collins has been an integral part of our team over the years and in June 2000, The Queen had a special request for him – to design a special piece of jewellery for her mother, Queen Elizabeth, to mark her 100th birthday. Needless to say, he was thrilled to be asked, and when Mr Collins returned a couple of weeks later to discuss some ongoing restoration work, he told Her Majesty that he had, ‘come up with a lovely idea for your mum’s present’, producing a superbly designed brooch. It was a very unusual piece, handmade in 18-carat gold with a cabochon-cut centre of rock crystal and featuring a painstakingly fine hand-painted centenary rose set among 100 diamonds, to give the appearance that it is floating.

The Queen’s special handmade birthday gift for The Queen Mother.

The Queen was delighted. When I escorted Mr Collins out of the Palace that day, I thought it was important to point out that although it wasn’t a major issue, it was more correct to refer to members of the Royal Family by their full title, rather than ‘mum’. Mortified, he asked me to pass on his apologies and even informed me later that the next day he’d purchased a copy of the Debrett’s book on etiquette.

A few weeks later, the day came to present Her Majesty with the brooch, and upon his arrival, it was clear that Mr Collins had been carefully studying how one should supposedly behave around The Queen. He greeted Her Majesty and presented her with the magnificent fitted case in which the brooch sat and, having read somewhere that where possible, one should not turn their back on The Queen, he proceeded to walk away backwards. Unfortunately, Mr Collins failed to notice Linnet, one of Her Majesty’s corgis, lying on the floor behind him. He tripped over Linnet and ended up next to the dog, lying spread-eagled on the carpet. Terrified that he’d hurt one of The Queen’s dogs, Harry frantically rubbed Linnet’s chest, apologising profusely, but Her Majesty reassured Mr Collins and told him not to worry: it was not his fault as the corgis had a terrible habit of lying in the most awkward places.

From that point on, Mr Collins and I formed a fruitful working relationship which saw him tend to some of the most significant pieces in Her Majesty’s collection, including the alteration of the Vladimir Tiara and of the Countess of Wessex’s wedding tiara, which was recently redesigned for the State Banquet with President Trump. Mr Collins is truly an invaluable member of the team.

I have also had the privilege to work with various other jewellers, Swarovski Crystals and Mappin & Webb to name just a couple. The fourth of June 2013 was to be the sixtieth anniversary of Her Majesty’s Coronation and Mark Appleby, from Mappin & Webb, called me explaining that the company wanted to design a brooch to give to The Queen in honour of this special occasion. Mark and I discussed the idea and it was agreed that it should be an orchid brooch made from Waterford Crystal. I particularly liked the idea of using the crystal, as you would then be able to see the colour of The Queen’s outfit through it. The brooch consisted of four hand-cut Waterford Crystal orchid flowers surrounded by sixty-six diamonds, which would be attached to rose gold stamens. The brooch was lovely and Her Majesty wore it during the Irish State Visit at Windsor Castle, which was particularly fitting as Waterford Crystal is based in Ireland.

MY PRETTY

WOMAN MOMENT

By the year 2001, I had begun designing outfits for The Queen and I wanted to ensure that from then on Her Majesty always looked her best and was up-to-date on the latest trends. As part of my role as a designer, I was responsible for searching for another designer whose creations might be suitable for The Queen, as I knew I wouldn’t be able to do it all myself. Usually this is an enjoyable task, but on one occasion, things didn’t go as smoothly as I’d hoped.

On one of my first solo excursions, I was planning to visit some local designers, not far from Buckingham Palace. I dressed in smart-casual clothes, but comfortably, as anyone might do when they’re anticipating a morning of walking around the shops. The first shop I went into had a stale feel to it and the outfits in the window display seemed slightly old-fashioned. None the less, I was approached by a lady who smiled and asked if she could help. I explained that I’d come to have a look at their clothes and asked whether I could see the clothes on the rails to gain a better idea of the style and cut of their designs, as well as the finishing. As she agreed, I spotted a man at the back of the room who, even though he was in the middle of fitting someone, was staring at me as if I was the dirt on his shoe. He peered over the top of his black-rimmed glasses and condescendingly advised that the clothing was ‘couture, not retail’.

I was shocked by his rudeness and immediately turned to the woman who had greeted me and I said quietly, ‘I do know it’s couture, not retail, thank you. And he has just made a big mistake. Huge. I will be back to tell him who he missed designing for.’ In my mind I was Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman right then!

With that, I left the shop feeling humiliated and belittled. How rude of him to presume my status in such a way.

I made my way to the next shop, hoping for a more positive experience. I had been recommended to try Motcomb Street by one of The Queen’s Ladies-in-Waiting as a good area to find designers, so I went into Stewart Parvin Couture. As I stepped inside, it felt different from the last place – bright and modern with beautiful outfits everywhere. Again, a lady met me with a beaming smile and I asked the same questions as before: whether they’d mind me looking at the designs, the cut and the finishing of their clothes. ‘Not at all, take your time,’ was the very different response, and I went along the rails freely, looking at all the outfits. It was immediately clear to me that this was not only the work of a designer but of an excellent tailor. I was so impressed that I asked if it would be possible to meet Mr Parvin and, sure enough, the lady offered me a seat while she went to fetch him.

I had to wait only ten minutes for Mr Parvin, during which time I kept looking towards a particular blue cocktail outfit with the most lovely harlequin multi-coloured gem buttons. In fact, I was engrossed in these buttons when a young man in a pair of jeans and a white T-shirt greeted me warmly and enthusiastically. I explained to Stewart (for that was who he was) that, having looked at his designs, I had my eye on the blue cocktail suit with diamanté buttons, but that I would need to take the piece away for a short while to show my employer. I promised to bring it back within a few hours. Bear in mind that, at this point, Stewart had no idea who I was or for whom I worked, but he agreed: he really was the warm, friendly person he appeared to be.

Two hours later, I returned with the outfit, which I had shown to The Queen and had received her approval on Stewart’s style. Stewart was there to greet me again and, after thanking him, I asked if he had a stockroom. Sure enough, he took me straight downstairs to show me, seemingly unfazed by my endless questions about his work. Three of his materials leaped out at me as being appropriate for Her Majesty – a blue fleck tweed among them. With these in mind, I asked Stewart if he would do some quick designs there and then for a very high-profile female customer. Once again, Stewart was happy to oblige and we spent some time sketching potential designs. Safe in the knowledge that Stewart was a talented, trustworthy, and kind person, I finally disclosed that these designs would be for Her Majesty The Queen, but that he must be discreet and keep everything confidential.

And that was that. Since then, Stewart and I have been working together for The Queen, and our friendship and professional relationship have gone from strength to strength. Sometimes it’s hard to believe that we have known each other for over eighteen years. In 2007, Stewart was granted his Royal Warrant in recognition of his contribution to The Queen’s wardrobe. Little does that first designer know what he missed out on.

Happy times – Stewart and I collaborating together at Joel & Son. Look out for this material used in a cocktail dress to be worn in 2020.

Jackie and I working hard.

ALL IN A

DAY’S WORK

As my role evolved and became even more varied, I soon learned that there would be no ‘typical’ day for me, just as there is no ‘typical’ day in Her Majesty’s schedule, with its various engagements, Royal Tours and State Visits.

A couple of years ago, in 2017, a request from the Castle Administrator at Glamis Castle, Tommy Baxter, made its way to my desk in a handwritten letter from Angus, Scotland. Tommy was looking to organise an exhibition to mark the eightieth anniversary of King George VI’s Coronation and was wondering if The Queen would be willing to loan The Queen Mother’s wedding dress, her Coronation dress and Coronation robe for display, as well as the Coronation dresses, robes and coronets of Their Royal Highnesses The Princess Elizabeth and The Princess Margaret. Tommy mentioned that he thought it was unlikely: he had already been in touch with a member of the Royal Household and been offered two paintings for the exhibition, but no outfits.

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