Copyright

HarperCollinsPublishers

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First published by HarperCollinsPublishers 2016

FIRST EDITION

© Jack Cooke 2016, 2017

Cover design by Dominic Forbes © HarperCollinsPublishers 2017

Cover illustrations based on photographs © Jeff Gilbert/Alamy; Shutterstock.com (textures)

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Source ISBN: 9780008157609

Ebook Edition © April 2016 ISBN: 9780008153922

Version: 2017-03-14

Dedication

To my mother, who has a great love of trees and a mortal fear of heights

Epigraph

‘Back to the trees!’ shouted Uncle Vanya. ‘Back to nature!’

The Evolution Man, Or, How I Ate My Father, Roy Lewis

Contents

Cover

Title Page

Copyright

Dedication

Epigraph

Introduction

The Inner Gibbon

A Short History of Climbing Trees

Green Fingers

A Warning to the Curious

Canals & Rivers

Brothers in Arms, Bishop’s Park

The Helping Hand, Regent’s Canal

The Hideout, Beverley Brook

The Old Mill, Ravensbourne River

The Crow’s Nest, King Edward VII Memorial Park

The Sidewinder, Hertford Union Canal

The Golden Fleece, Little Venice

The Double Decker, Millbank

Ophelia’s Treehouse, The Bow Brook

The Fireman’s Pole, Meadowbank

The Fish Hook, River Wandle

City Parks

The Divine Tree, Holland Park

The Kraken, Clissold Park

The Cracked Ash, Victoria Park

Twin Peaks, Victoria Park

Bristowe’s Oaks, Brockwell Park

Plimpton’s Seat, Finsbury Park

The Flagpole, Wandsworth Park

The Tilted Tree, Ravenscourt Park

The Two Towers, Ravenscourt Park

House of Marvell, Waterlow Park

The Enchanted Oak, Ruskin Park

The Quarterdeck, Geraldine Harmsworth Park

The Chartist Tree, Kennington Park

The Magic Carpet, Normand Park

The Guardian Tree, Crystal Palace Park

The Corkscrew, Battersea Park

The Strangled Oak, Battersea Park

The Totem Pole, Roundwood Park

The Jigsaw Tree, Burgess Park

Species

Squares, Gardens & Greens

The Wooden Rose, Brunswick Square

The Black Horse, Temple Gardens

The Chrysalis, Fulham Palace Gardens

Bishop’s Rest, Fulham Palace Gardens

The Nostrils, Camberwell Green

Pankhurst’s Stave, Victoria Tower Gardens

The Catapult, Lincoln’s Inn Fields

The Mountain Top, Horniman Museum Gardens

The Vanguard Beech, Lucas Gardens

The Amplifier, Canada Square

The Gelding’s Tree, Golden Square

Cemeteries & Churchyards

The Three Crowns, Abney Park Cemetery

The Angel Pine, Brompton Cemetery

The Split Yew, All Saints Fulham

John Joshua’s Lime, Hammersmith Old

The False Prophet, St John’s Wood Church Grounds

The Old Crutch, Kensal Green Cemetery

The Black Hand, Nunhead Cemetery

The Granny Pine, Paddington Old Cemetery

The Pulpit, St Paul’s Cathedral Churchyard

Royal Parks

The Hermit Hole, Hyde Park

The Pedestal, Kensington Gardens

The High Bower, Greenwich Park

The Royal Perch, St James’s Park

The Tree of Knowledge, Richmond Park

The Lookout, Primrose Hill

Houdini’s Door, Regent’s Park

Streets, Roundabouts & Rooftops

The One-Way Willow, Swiss Cottage Roundabout

Tramp’s Corner, The Mall

The Spire, Highbury Island

The Burnt Treehouse, Lillie Road

The Traffic Warden, Park Lane

The Flying Oak, Kensington Roof Gardens

The Soldier Fig, Stratford Greenway

Seasons

Open Ground

A Strange Vision, Peckham Rye

The Oasis, Blackheath

The Turnip Tree, Tooting Commons

Lamp Post 33, Clapham Common

Gwain’s Bane, Wormwood Scrubs

The Talisman, Wandsworth Common

The Commentary Box, Hackney Marshes

The Fallen Oak, Hampstead Heath

The Dule Tree, Wanstead Flats

Secret Gardens

The Bowsprit, Rosmead Garden

The Holy Holm, Lambeth Palace Gardens

The Widow’s Veil, Chelsea Physic Garden

The Prince of Persia, Kew Gardens

The Lost Dragon, Kew Gardens

The Peacock Roost, The Hurlingham Club

A Night Aloft

The Sprouting City

Branching Out – A Tree Climber’s Glossary

Acknowledgements

About the Publisher

Introduction

One thing we rarely do in the city is look up. Only time and weather seem to invade our thoughts as we tramp the urban mile. We may raise our eyes to coming rain or the hours called by clocks, but little else breaks our focus on the way to and from – our eternal quest for convenience.

There is another dimension to the city, a world far removed but close at hand. It is a place of limitless space and light, and a simple antidote to the crowds. When we escape into this realm our senses are awakened; we taste cleaner air and see further than the end of the road. Where does this unlikely utopia lie? All around and above you, in the lofty, green canopy of the city’s trees.

The city I inhabit is not so very different from any other. Like all cities it is sculpted from the same fixed matter: steel and glass, stone and brick. But like all cities it is underpinned and overhung by nature. Everything man-made is dug into the soil, and beneath the street a vast network of roots threads the land.

I have climbed trees in London, but wherever you live you cannot be far from a low branch. The location of a tree is not as important as the act of climbing; you could be scaling a pine in Glasgow or an oak in Rome. Trees offer a way up and out of every city in which they thrive.

There are an estimated seven million trees growing across London, almost a tree for every man, woman and child living in the city. They are as varied and individual as the human inhabitants, from hoary old veterans to assertive young saplings, and as a would-be climber of their branches you have a lot of introductions to make.

The premium commodity in cities is space – space and the terrible lack of it. A recurring bass line in our media is the ever-increasing rent to be paid for one house, one flat, one room, one box. London’s real estate has become inflated beyond recognition, yet the city retains a set of residents who enjoy its most exclusive addresses, the best access and architecture, and the finest views. These lucky few are not the skyscraper elite in their capsules of glass and steel, nor the sprawling mansion dwellers of Hampstead and Chelsea. There exists another kind of penthouse, and its occupants – the humble bird and beast – live in it for free.

London is a verdant metropolis, with more parks and green spaces than any other capital of comparable size. At whatever compass point of the city you find yourself, you’re never far from a break in the asphalt and a climbable tree. Step a few feet up and out, and you’re suddenly suspended above the crowds, alone on your perch and enjoying a fresh breeze.

This book aims to give the reader a new A–Z, one that runs from Acer to Zelkova, offering escape wherever you find yourself. It is not a survey but a personal selection, representing the very tip of a deep arboreal iceberg. Variety is at the heart of climbing trees, and I hope to inspire others to go out and find their own citadels.

There are, of course, obstacles to us claiming the city’s forgotten paradise but, fortunately, they exist largely in our own heads. The two greatest of these, fear and shame, hinder and guard us at all times. Taken together they form a powerful anchor that keeps most of us firmly grounded.

The first emotion is natural and healthy. Fear is the backbone of survival and no bad thing. It seems rational to look up into a fifty-foot oak, the wind shaking its crown, and decide that you are better placed on terra firma. Although we no longer possess the mighty forearms of our hominid ancestors, human biology still makes us remarkably adept tree climbers. We came from the trees and we can return to them. Starting small, you’ll find that oak, ash, pine and cedar offer ladder-like ascents on firm boughs. Your balance and agility might be better than you suspect.

As we get older and grow out of many childhood fears, we develop others. We no longer dread what lies beneath the bed, but those who once sprung off trampolines now fear anything higher than a stepladder. Mounting the kitchen sideboard or reaching to close a window we find ourselves suddenly dizzy, reeling at a sheer drop of three feet. In such instances vertigo is an irrational response. Just like the rabbit in the headlights, it serves no evolutionary purpose; fear is there to be subordinated to our willpower. The humanzee may overcometh.

The second obstacle, shame, is the harder to surmount. This is because it’s so deeply ingrained, a tragic part of our social conditioning. There seems to be a common perception that climbing trees is not at all respectable. Like so many precepts that bind us as adults, it’s ‘just not what grown-ups do’. Long labelled the preserve of children by the unimaginative, an adult in a tree is drunk, deranged, suicidal – or a combination of all three. We are denied the pleasures of the trees by our own self-policing, by the roles we assume in this protective and circumscribing society.

For a grown man or woman, then, climbing a tree is out of the question. No matter how much he or she recounts green-at-the-knee tales of childhood adventure, no responsible citizen would shimmy up a willow. On the rare occasions adults do venture into the trees it’s usually to impress friends and show off, which should never be the inspiration or goal of climbing.

Conquering fear and shame is as much about rediscovering our beginnings as abandoning our tame maturity. The adult measures enjoyment against the future, pausing at the foot of the tree, while the child lives in the moment. The instant that you value a new set of clothes over a new experience you have forgotten how to enjoy yourself. We must grow as children, not shrink as adults.

If you are ready to master these emotions, a new haven lies waiting for you. Before long you can be ten, thirty or fifty feet above your surroundings. It is an addictive experience, and the best trees can be enjoyed from their lowest branch to their topmost. Swing out onto a low perch and dangle your legs a few feet off the ground. Climb a little higher and edge out of sight. Still higher, and you will find different windows opening on the world below, a new perspective on the city with every branch you grasp.

Many are the poets who have stood in the shade of a great tree and proclaimed its beauty, but what they behold is a mere fraction of the whole. By climbing, we engage all our senses. The textures of different barks and the suppleness of branches that bend under our weight are a stark contrast to the synthetic nature of the world we inhabit at ground level. Pausing in a tree top we can tune in to an alternative soundscape, a world of subtle variation unnoticed in the cacophony of the street; the heavy sigh of a branch buffeted by a lorry’s slipstream or a full head of leaves catching the wind off the river.

Only once, in all the trees I’ve climbed across the city, have I found someone sitting in the top of one. The man I encountered was small, grey and smiling. He was at least sixty, dressed in suit trousers with his shirt untucked and a jacket and tie hanging on the branch below him. Once we had gotten over our mutual surprise – and I’d taken a subordinate perch – we began talking. This man was no great libertarian, no anarchist or antichrist. He was simply a lawyer on a lunch break having his sandwich in an ash tree. This choice, to eat at altitude above the packed square of the park, was not a radical one. To me this man was following the most natural inclination in the world – a desire for breathing space and a different point of view.

London was built on a swamp, and it doesn’t take much height to achieve a good vantage point. But there are trees in the capital where, with little skill or strength but due care, the committed explorer can climb high above their surroundings. There is perhaps no feeling quite like sticking your head through the topmost branches of a tree, pushing through a pine canopy or reaching for the last bunch of oak leaves. You emerge from a dense network of branches below to an open sky and boundless views stretching away on every side. Beneath, filtered through summer green or the bare branches of winter, are the passing crowns of people’s heads: blonde, brunette, bald. The ground is flat and clean, and the world about is round.

It is these living lookouts – and the thousands of new views of the city they provide, open and free to all – that are at the heart of this book. Office blocks shimmer through the fronds of a cedar, skyscrapers loom above a green crown and the long lines of tenements dwindle into the distance.

Trees deliver us from the banal, and reaching the top of one is like coming up for air and breaking the bubble of our timetabled lives. Their physical complexity, together with the courage needed to climb them, liberates thought and offers a wealth of natural knowledge. The treeline acts as a defence against the darker parts of urban living and the canopy is an inviolate place, a still room for reflection amid the constant rush of city life.

There is nothing better for seeing the world more clearly than removing yourself a little distance from it. So the next time the city overwhelms you, when you feel hemmed in or shut out, remember to look up. Escape is at hand, reprieve is at foot; you are never far from ascension.