 .     .   ,       
 


         , ,   ,         ,     .   ,      ,    ,      ,    , , ,  , , pH,  ,     .

    ,     , , ,     ,   .      ,   ,        .





 .     .   ,       








    ,            .        ,   ,   .      -       ,    .    . ,  ,         ,   ,    ,  :

      ;

  ,   ;

     , , , , pH;

         ,     .



 ,       .           ,         - . ,       ,          .             ,    ,   .



       ,    .



    :

     (, , );

    ;

    .



    ?

  ,          ;

           ;

,    ,   .





      .

  , ,       ,    .  ,      ,      -              ,      . ,    ,              ,      .



   :

     (J. Cosmet. Sci., Int. J. Trichology  .)

: Robbins, Draelos, OLenick  .

 (LOral, Henkel, Kao, Wella)

    ,     Injir Hair

  ,   .











 1.   .      .










1.1     


     ,   .     ,    .      ,    .    ,   , , ,     [1], [2].       ,       .   ,  ,  ,  ,   , , ,     [1], [2].

             .           ,     , ,   ,  ,      [1], [3], [4].

     ,  :     ,      .




1.2.     


    ,   .       .   .     ,       , pH,      [1], [4].

     .  .      .          .             ,        [4], [5], [6].

         .    ,      ,      ,            .

         .    ,      .






1.3.    


      : ,    [1], [2].








    .               .     , ,  ,        [1], [2].

    .     ,  ,    ,  ,    .      ,        ,    [1], [5], [6].

    .   ,     .            [1], [2].










       .  ,       ,     ,    -   .









1.4.      


        .    .      .   ,      ,      ,        [1], [4].






      .       ,       .    ,       ,        [1], [3].

      . Ÿ        ,      .               ,    .









1.5.   


  ,  CMC,      .            -  [3].






CMC    ,       .      ,      ,           [3].

  CMC   . CMC   ,                .  ,           .      ,       [3], [4].

        , ,        .                   [5].

 CMC   .         ,     ,       .






1.6.       


    .    ,  ,    .     ,     [1], [2].

     .             .         ,           [5].

       ,     .      ,             -  ,      [5], [6].

   nanoscale secondary ion mass spectrometry ,   ,    ,     ,          [6].  ,         .






1.7.    


     :      .






   .  ,  ,          .     , , ,  , , pH,     [4], [5], [7].

    .              .           .       ,      [5].

   ,      .       ,     ,   .    ,       .

        .         .






1.8.       


     .   ,     .         .






 , CMC     ,          .      ,      ,          [1], [3], [5].

     ,   ,   ,       .    ,               .






1.9.     -


            -    .

        .    ,        .

       ,        .       , ,    .

         ,  ,  CMC,  , ,     .

 ,      .      .       .




1.10  


        .       ,   CMC,      .

        ,      .      ,  ,      .

       .      :  ,  ,  ,  ,  , ,      .

   ,     .      ,        .

   ,       .      ,  ,  , CMC, ,    .






1.11. 


   ,     .       .

   ,          .

CMC    ,    ,  ,     .

         .

     ,        .

     ,         .

     -,        .

            .        ,  ,       .






 


Robbins C. R. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 5th ed. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer; 2012. DOI: 10.1007/978-3-642-25611-0.

Yang F. C., Zhang Y., Rheinst?dter M. C. The structure of peoples hair. PeerJ. 2014;2:e619. DOI: 10.7717/peerj.619.

Robbins C. The cell membrane complex: three related but different cellular cohesion components of mammalian hair fibers. Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2009;60(4):437465.

Gummer C. L. Elucidating penetration pathways into the hair fiber using novel microscopic techniques. Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2001;52(5):265280.

da Fran?a S. A., Dario M. F., Esteves V. B., Baby A. R., Velasco M. V. R. Types of Hair Dye and Their Mechanisms of Action. Cosmetics. 2015;2(2):110126. DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics2020110.

Kojima T., Yamada H., Yamamoto T., Matsushita Y., Fukushima K. Dyeing regions of oxidative hair dyes in human hair investigated by nanoscale secondary ion mass spectrometry. Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces. 2013;106:140144. DOI: 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2013.01.028.

Kelch A., Wessel S., Will T., Hintze U., Wepf R., Wiesendanger R. Penetration pathways of fluorescent dyes in human hair fibres investigated by scanning near-field optical microscopy. Journal of Microscopy. 2000;200(Pt 3):179186. DOI: 10.1046/j.1365-2818.2000.00774.x.

Rogers G. E. Known and Unknown Features of Hair Cuticle Structure: A Brief Review. Cosmetics. 2019;6(2):32. DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics6020032.

Fei-Chi Yang, Yuchen Zhang and Maikel C. Rheinstadter. The structure of peoples hair. Copyright 2014 Yang et al. DOI 10.7717/peerj.619

Qiaoyue Man,Lintong Zhang and Youngim Cho. Efficient Hair Damage Detection Using SEM Images Based on Convolutional Neural Network - Department of Computer Engineering, Gachon University, Seongnam 1342, Korea - Appl. Sci. 2021, 11(16), 7333; https://doi.org/10.3390/app11167333






 2. ,   .      .










2.1.     


      ,         .        .    ,  pH, , , , -      [1], [2].

       ,     .     , , , ,      .        ,  ,  ,       [1], [2], [3].

       ,    ,     .






2.2.   


     .      - .     ,   ,        [1], [2].

 ,    , ,    .      ,   ,     .       .     ,    .    .           [1], [2], [3].

      .   ,             .






2.3.   


     .        ,    .            ,     [1], [2].

    .      ,        .      ,     ,    redox- [1], [4].

         ,         .          ,        [4], [5].

 ,        .      .






2.4. ,   


        .

             .        ,  ,        [1], [4].

   ,  .      .       ,       [1], [2].

    pH .         ,     ,        [1], [2].

        .      ,          [2], [6].

       ,       .         ,    ,     .






2.5.   


      .     ,  ,      [1], [2].

      .       ,  ,         [1], [2].

     .         ,      .        ,         .      .

 ,          .    ,        .






2.6.  


      ,      .     , , ,      [2], [6], [7].

     ,       .   18- ,   18-MEA.          ,       [6].

  ,   18-MEA       ,   ,            [6].

   ,         .           .              .






2.7.   


  ,  CMC,    -    .     ,           [3].






CMC   .     ,    ,      ,         [3].

  CMC  ,           .        .  ,               [1], [3].  CMC   .    ,    ,          .






2.8.     


     ,       .  ,  , CMC     ,         [1], [3], [4].

       .       ,      ,        .      ,        .

       .        ,      .






2.9.    


     ,      .             ,   ,          [4], [5].






 cysteic acid      ,     .     ,     .          ,      cysteic acid.     ,          [9].



             .  ,      ,      [4].         . Ÿ                 [5].

       .       :  ,  ,     .






2.10.        -


            -       .

            .         .       ,    .       , ,    ,    .

        ,  CMC,      .     ,  ,      [1], [3], [4].

       .     ,     .






2.11.  


           .        . , , CMC,            [1], [2], [3].

          .       ,  ,  ,      .

    ,      .       ,     ,     [1], [3], [4].

          .    , ,  ,        [2], [6], [7].






2.12. 


     ,   , , , ,     .

    ,       .

   , ,     .

,  18-MEA,   , , ,      .

CMC    ,           .

     ,         .

     ,   -  .

       .      ,        , ,    .






 


Robbins C. R. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 5th ed. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer; 2012. DOI: 10.1007/978-3-642-25611-0.

Cruz C. F., Costa C., Gomes A. C., Matam T., Cavaco-Paulo A. Human Hair and the Impact of Cosmetic Procedures: A Review on Cleansing and Shape-Modulating Cosmetics. Cosmetics. 2016;3(3):26. DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics3030026.

Robbins C. The cell membrane complex: three related but different cellular cohesion components of mammalian hair fibers. Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2009;60(4):437465.

Grosvenor A. J., Deb-Choudhury S., Middlewood P. G., Thomas A., Lee E., Vernon J. A., Woods J. L., Clerens S. The physical and chemical disruption of human hair after bleaching: studies by transmission electron microscopy and redox proteomics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2018;40(6):536548. DOI: 10.1111/ics.12495.

Kuzuhara A. Evaluation of Cysteic Acid in Bleached Hair Using Infrared Spectroscopy. Journal of Fiber Science and Technology. 2016;72(1):17. DOI: 10.2115/fiberst.2016-0001.

Tokunaga S., Tanamachi H., Ishikawa K. Degradation of Hair Surface: Importance of 18-MEA and Epicuticle. Cosmetics. 2019;6(2):31. DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics6020031.

Coderch L., Alonso C., Garc?a M. T., Prez L., Mart? M. Hair Lipid Structure: Effect of Surfactants. Cosmetics. 2023;10(4):107. DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10040107.

George E. Rogers. Known and Unknown Features of Hair Cuticle Structure: A Brief Review - Molecular and Biomedical Sciences, University of Adelaide, Adelaide, SA 5005, Australia. Cosmetics 2019, 6(2), 32; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics6020032

Yang F.-C., Zhang Y., Rheinst?dter M. C. The structure of peoples hair. PeerJ. 2014;2. DOI: 10.7717/peerj.619. PMID: 25332846. PMCID: PMC4201279.






 3.   . ,   .










3.1.       


           .      :  ,    ,    ,  ,        [1], [2], [3].

             .       ,        .              ,             [2], [4].

         .    :     ,      ,   .        ,     ,    ,             [1], [5].






3.2.    


       ,    .             .    ,   ,     [2], [4].






       ,           .                 ,    : , , , , ,     [1], [6].

    .       .            ,     ,   .






3.3.    


         [3], [4], [7].











    - .      5,6-: DHI  DHICA.         ,       [4], [7], [8].

   -  - .       ,   ,           [4], [7].

        ,   .   , , ,          ,    ,       [3], [7].






3.4. 


     .   -            [3], [7].






      ,  .     ,     .         ,   DHI  DHICA [7], [8].     ,     . Ҹ      ,  ,                   [6].






     .            .           .     , -,   - ,            [1], [6].






3.5. 


    , -    .           [4], [7].






                .             .       ,   ,       [3], [7].






      ,    .    ,      ,         [6], [7].

   ,            .       ,          .






3.6. : ,   


         .       ,       [2], [4].

, ,         .  ,           ,      [8].

       .        ,     .       ,      [3], [8].

 ,             .      ,       .






3.7.       


       . ׸, , , ,       ,          [1], [5].

   .     .     ,    .      ,         [1], [5].

         -.       ,      .      ,    ,  ,  ,        [1], [5], [8].

     .     ,      .             ,    .






3.8.      


        .     ,        .






      ,   .        .             [3], [8].

           :   ,     ,   ,         [1], [3], [8].

         ,      .  ,    ,    ,         .






3.9.       


       .  ,     ,         : ,   .

           .          .   ,  ,            [1], [6].

             .      , ,       .

      .      ,       ,      .        ,      .






3.10. ,     


      ,   ,    .     ,          [3], [8].

         .      ,   ,        ,       [5], [8].

       .       ,      .     ,    ,      [1], [6].

 ,       .    ,      .






3.11.      


              .   ,        .   ,    ,          [2], [9].

        .       ,    .      , , ,       , ,  ,     [1], [5].

      .       -  , , ,     .             .






3.12.  


   ,       .      , ,      [3], [4], [8].

   ,       .       ,        [1], [6].

        .     - ,       .

      .      ,    ,       [1], [2].

   ,      .    ,          ,     [1], [6].






3.13. 


      ,       .

      .

   -  ,    -   .

       ,    .

, ,        .

      ,     .

       .      ,       .

     .   ,      -   .

       ,   ,     , ,      .






 


[1] Robbins C. R. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 5th ed. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer; 2012. DOI: 10.1007/978-3-642-25611-0.

[2] Slominski A., Wortsman J., Plonka P. M., Schallreuter K. U., Paus R., Tobin D. J. Hair follicle pigmentation. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 2005;124(1):1321. DOI: 10.1111/j.0022-202X.2004.23528.x.

[3] Ito S., Wakamatsu K. Diversity of human hair pigmentation as studied by chemical analysis of eumelanin and pheomelanin. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology. 2011;25(12):13691380. DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-3083.2011.04278.x.

[4] Wakamatsu K., Zippin J. H., Ito S. Chemical and biochemical control of skin pigmentation with special emphasis on mixed melanogenesis. Pigment Cell & Melanoma Research. 2021;34(4):730747. DOI: 10.1111/pcmr.12970.

[5] Huang X., Yu P., Tan O. B., et al. Review of human hair optical properties in possible relation to melanoma development. Journal of Biomedical Optics. 2018;23(5):050901. DOI: 10.1117/1.JBO.23.5.050901.

[6] Lee W. S. Photoaggravation of hair aging. International Journal of Trichology. 2009;1(2):9499. DOI: 10.4103/0974-7753.58551.

[7] dIschia M., Wakamatsu K., Cicoira F., Di Mauro E., Garcia-Borron J. C., Commo S., Galvn I., Ghanem G., Koike K., Meredith P., et al. Melanins and melanogenesis: from pigment cells to human health and technological applications. Pigment Cell & Melanoma Research. 2015;28(5):520544. DOI: 10.1111/pcmr.12393.

[8] Itou T., Ito S., Wakamatsu K. Effects of Aging on Hair Color, Melanosome Morphology, and Melanin Composition in Japanese Females. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2019;20(15):3739. DOI: 10.3390/ijms20153739.

[9] Tobin D. J. The cell biology of human hair follicle pigmentation. Pigment Cell & Melanoma Research. 2011;24(1):7588. DOI: 10.1111/j.1755-148X.2010.00803.x.

[10] Roldan-Kalil J, Zueva L, Alves J, Tsytsarev V, Sanabria P, Inyushin M. Amount of Melanin Granules in Human Hair Defines the Absorption and Conversion to Heat of Light Energy in the Visible Spectrum. Photochem Photobiol. 2023 Jul-Aug;99(4):1092-1096. doi: 10.1111/php.13744. Epub 2022 Dec 13. PMID: 36403200; PMCID: PMC10199145.






 4.     










4.1.     




      .   ,    .           .    :    , ,              [1], [2], [3].










        .      .    ,   ,     ,     ,     : , CMC,  ,      [1], [4], [5].

      .   ,               .






4.2.      




        .    ,    .         [1], [6].



      ,    .    ,      .       ,    .



           .         ,      [2], [3].



       ,     .






4.3.   




         ,        . ٸ   ,             [1], [2].



          .       ,  -   ,        [3].



        .     :  ,     ,            [1], [4].



          .   -    ,     .






4.4.      




        . Ÿ            [1], [2], [3].



       ,         . Smith        -      ,            [3].



    ,       ,    .      ,   ,        .



   ,     .       ,      [4], [5], [7].






4.5.       




          .                          [1], [4].



    ,         .        .           .



        ,                 lightener- [5].

          .        ,         .






4.6.     




    .       .         .    ,     ,      [2], [3], [6].



          : -, -, , -, , -.             .       ,         [1], [2], [6].



       . Ҹ                [2], [6].         -  .     ,            .






4.7.     ,    




       : ,   .      ,     .














      .     :

  ;

  ;

  ;

  ;

     ;

   .



         .           ,        -  ,          [1], [2], [6].



 ,               .         ,       .






4.8.      




        :     ,  -,    .                 [1], [2].



    . -,        . -,             . -,        ,   -   [4], [7], [8].



       :          ,    .



   ,           , ,    .      ,          .






4.9.       




     .     ,  , , CMC    [1], [4], [5], [7].






Grosvenor   ,  peroxide-persulfate bleaching      ,        ,   [4].        ,    .

Imai,       , ,         ,         [5].

Kuzuhara   Raman-              [8].   ,   :      ,      .






4.10.      




          .         [7].

Suzuta               ,       .     -    [7].

     .    ,       .       .    ,       .

    , ,        ,  , , ,    .               .






4.11.         


       .      ,  ,    ,  CMC,       [1], [4], [7], [8].

    .      ,      ,          .

    ,        .    ,             .

         ,    .     ,       -  ,    ,       .






4.12.       


        .   ,   .     ,         .



    :

   ;

  ;

 ;

  ;

   ;

  ,    ;

    .



         .    , ,      .

      , , ,      .






4.13.  




   ,     .             [2], [3].

   ,       .      ,      [1], [2], [6].

   ,      ,    .          ,     [4], [7], [8].

   ,        .             [1], [4], [5].

   ,       .        ,   , ,      [4], [7], [8].






4.14.  


      ,     .

     ,         .

      ,          .

       ,       .

    ,      .

      ,      ,     .

                 .

    ,   ,  , CMC,    .

         .

       :  ,     .






   


Robbins C. R. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 5th ed. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer; 2012. DOI: 10.1007/978-3-642-25611-0.

Ito S., Wakamatsu K. Diversity of human hair pigmentation as studied by chemical analysis of eumelanin and pheomelanin. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology. 2011;25(12):13691380. DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-3083.2011.04278.x.

Smith R. A. W., Garrett B., Naqvi K. R., F?l?p A., Godfrey S. P., Marsh J. M., Chechik V. Mechanistic insights into the bleaching of melanin by alkaline hydrogen peroxide. Free Radical Biology and Medicine. 2017;108:110117. DOI: 10.1016/j.freeradbiomed.2017.03.014.

Grosvenor A. J., Deb-Choudhury S., Middlewood P. G., Thomas A., Lee E., Vernon J. A., Woods J. L., Clerens S. The physical and chemical disruption of human hair after bleaching: studies by transmission electron microscopy and redox proteomics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2018;40(6):536548. DOI: 10.1111/ics.12495.

Imai T. The influence of hair bleach on the ultrastructure of human hair with special reference to hair damage. Okajimas Folia Anatomica Japonica. 2011;88(1):19. DOI: 10.2535/ofaj.88.1.

dIschia M., Wakamatsu K., Cicoira F., Di Mauro E., Garcia-Borron J. C., Commo S., Galvn I., Ghanem G., Koike K., Meredith P., et al. Melanins and melanogenesis: from pigment cells to human health and technological applications. Pigment Cell & Melanoma Research. 2015;28(5):520544. DOI: 10.1111/pcmr.12393.

Suzuta K., Watanabe K., Maeda T., Ito L. Evaluation of Cysteic Acid in Bleached Hair Using Infrared Spectroscopy. Journal of Fiber Science and Technology. 2016;72(1):18. DOI: 10.2115/fiberst.2016-0004.

Kuzuhara A. Analysis of internal structure changes in black human hair keratin fibers resulting from bleaching treatments using Raman spectroscopy. Journal of Molecular Structure. 2013;1047:186193. DOI: 10.1016/j.molstruc.2013.04.079.






 5.  .    .










5.1.       


        ,       .              :          .

      .       :   .      ,       ,     .               ,     [1], [2], [3].

         ,   . Ÿ     ,  , pH,  ,  , ,  , ,         [1], [2], [3].

     .       .     ,        .






5.2.    


        .











    .   ,    ,   , ,  ,  , , , , , ,    .

   ,  developer.          .       ,  pH, ,    .

      .   , ,      ,      .   ,    ,     .

     .           .       :  ,   ,  ,   ,         [1], [2], [3].






5.3.  :    


-      .      ,       .

      :

     .     .       .

    .   pH,    ,      .       ammonia/ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol    .

      .      ,          .

   ,   .       ,         .

    .   , ,  ,   ,   , ,        .



  ,        .   ,   ,      .











5.4. :    


,  primary intermediates,       .                  [1], [2], [3].

        ,    .              .               [1], [2], [3].






      ,    .  :

p-Phenylenediamine;

Toluene-2,5-Diamine;

p-Aminophenol;

 ;

  p-phenylenediamine  aminophenol- [1], [2], [3].



     . PPD    , PTD    , p-Aminophenol    .      :     ,   ,   pH,        .

        ,                .






5.5.      


        .  p-phenylenediamine         quinonediimine-   [1], [2], [3].

   .     .    ,     ,    .

   :

  ;

   ;

 ;

 ;

      ;

    .








          .      ,        .






5.6.   


      .      ,     ,   ,        .






     ,    .         .






5.7. : ,  


,  couplers,          .       .            ,          [1], [2], [3].



   :

Resorcinol;

2-Methylresorcinol;

m-Aminophenol;

1-Naphthol;

4-Chlororesorcinol;

4-Amino-2-Hydroxytoluene;

 pyridine-, indole-  pyrazole- [1], [2], [3].








   ,      .     coupler          .     precursor          couplers.

       .     .    ,           .

           .     .






5.8.   


    .











         .    ,     ,      .






5.9.    




       .

           .               [1], [2], [3].

    .  p-phenylenediamine         quinonediimine-   [1], [2], [3].

        .         .             [1], [2], [3].

        .   SCCP/SCCS    ,       ,      [1], [2], [3].



    :

 + H?O? ?  

  +  ?  



     .        ,     .    ,  .    ,   ,   ,       [1], [2], [3].
















        ,   .     .









5.10.      


      .

     .              [1], [2], [3].

       .            .     ,      [1], [2], [3].



 Kojima     nanoscale secondary ion mass spectrometry ,  ,    ,    ;            [4].  ,         .

       .     ,    CMC, , , pH , , , -    .






5.11.        


     .

         .

              [1], [2], [3].

          ,      .          :

  ;

   ;

 ,     .



    ,  ,      .         ,    ,    .

        .      .






5.12.         


      primary intermediates   couplers.      , , , ,    .

         + ,    ,     .      .   SCCS      ,         ,     [1], [2], [3].

   :       ,    ,     .     - :      ,   ,           .






5.13.      


    ,     .         :     ,          .

           .

     ,     .         ,             [1], [2], [3].

      :

              ,  ,    .

    ,    .






5.14.    


    ,   .  ,          . Ÿ       .






      ,     .          [1], [3], [6].






5.15.        


   ,     .  ,         :

 PPD     ;

 resorcinol    ;

 1-naphthol    ;

 p-aminophenol    ;

 direct blue     .



    , , pH, ,  ,    .



  :

PPD         ,      ;

resorcinol     , ,    ;

1-naphthol      - ,     ;

p-aminophenol     ,        ;

direct dyes   ,         .



     ,   .






5.16.     




      +         .

   ,      .    ,    .      couplers,     .    ,        ,     .

     PPD  resorcinol.   :   , pH, , , ,     .   ,       ,       .






5.17.        


     . ,        6  - .       -.      PPD/PTD-   resorcinol-.      ,      direct blue  violet   .          .

        .   1015     -.   .    direct-.   ,      [1], [3], [6].

        .






5.18.   


       .     ,    ,   ,     ,           [1], [2], [4].

     ammonia/ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol   .

 ,         .         .         .             .

    =   .        .    pH, , ,     .

      ,   : pH  ,  ,  ,  H?O?,  ,     .






5.19.    MEA   


      . :      . : MEA     .      .

  MEA    :   .    , ,   ,    ,          .

     ammonia-based  monoethanolamine-based   ,  MEA-          [1], [2], [4].      ,     MEA     .     : , pH, ,  , ,     .

    :         .       ,       ,      .






5.20.   


        .

      . H?O?  ,     ,      [1], [2], [4].

      .          ,      [1], [2], [4].



    .             .      , ,  , ,        .

    .  1:1, 1:1,5, 1:2      ,     , , ,    .        H?O?,        .






5.21.  :      


-        . Ÿ    ,      ,     ,          .



   :

;

  ;

 ;

;

- ;

;

 ;

;

.



      .          .         .         .         .      ,         .         ,     .






5.22.   


         developer.   ,      .

        ,  sodium sulfite, sodium metabisulfite, ascorbic acid   .                .

  ,        .   :       .

  ,     ,       .      ,   .






5.23.    


,   EDTA, EDDS, etidronic acid    ,          .

,    ,      .     ,   ,        [1], [2], [4].

      .         .      -        .

  .     .  ,           .






5.24. Direct dyes   


         ,    .     , , , , , ,    .

      .          .          ,  ,         [2], [4].

     ,          non-oxidative ,    oxidative hair dye formulations  non-reacting  direct colour components.    , , Basic Red 51, Basic Violet 2, HC Blue No. 15, HC Yellow No. 16, HC Yellow No. 2, HC Blue No. 17   nitro dye derivatives,  N,N-Bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine.           precursor/coupler-,      ,     [2], [4].

    .     ,          .    ,  ,      .

:  direct dyes     ,      .  ,    :     precursor/coupler-,          .  direct dye-      ,    .   direct dyes        ,  .






5.25.        -


               .

  :

;

;

 ;

  ;

pH;

 ;

;

;

 ;

  ;

 .



  7.1, 6.0  10.21           .        .   ,      ,    ,         .

 ,         .     ,         .






5.26.         


    ,    :   ,   ,   .

       :     .           . ,               ,    ,    .      ,            .

   -     .

        .       ,   .

     ,  ,   ,  , , , ,    .           .       ,  direct dye-,   ,       .

        .    , pH,  ,  , ,  , ,  ,        .

  ,         . ,       .           ,     , ,    .



     .       ,    ,        :

    ;

     ;

 pH   ;

   ;

 developer;

 ;

   ;

;

  .



     :

       ,   ,       .



        :

        ;

      ,     .



     .          ,           .






5.27. INCI:       


   INCI     .       :       .

 INCI  :

     ;

  ;

   ;

   ;

  ;

  ;

   ;

    oxidative, direct  hybrid-.



  INCI   :

        ;

         ;

      pH  ;

       ;

       ;

         ;

         ;

          .



 INCI    ,      .



  

,    INCI   :

Toluene-2,5-Diamine Sulfate, Resorcinol, m-Aminophenol, 1-Naphthol, 4-Amino-2-Hydroxytoluene, Sodium Sulfite, Disodium EDTA, Ammonium Hydroxide.



    .

Toluene-2,5-Diamine Sulfate    primary intermediate. Resorcinol, m-Aminophenol, 1-Naphthol  4-Amino-2-Hydroxytoluene    couplers    . Sodium Sulfite      . Disodium EDTA   . Ammonium Hydroxide    .



  :

    ;

    precursor/coupler chemistry;

    -, ,   -       ;

 ;

  ;

    -.



  :

 ;

 ;

   ;

   ;

        ;

     .



    .    ,     INCI,  ,      .






5.28.    


         ,     .    , , CMC,  , ,    .       ,     ,          .

           ,               [7], [8], [9], [10], [11], [12].



        . :

 ;

    ;

   /;

 ;

   ;

  ;

   ;

    ;

   ;

      .



      .   ,      .         .



   

            .       -: natural extra, intense natural, cover, resistant grey, grey coverage, double pigment, special natural, extra coverage   .



    ,      .      :

   ;

   ;

    ;

    - ;

    developer;

   ;

    ;

         .



      ,      ,                  .

        ,       .         ,  , ,   ,         .

        :    ,    .



      

          .  :       -      .



,        , , ,   ,        .           .



   .       ,    .  :

 ;

  ;

  ;

  ;

  ,   ;

  ;

   ,    .



      ,       .



  

  PRO.  3            :    .           .



   ,                ,         .        - ,         .



     ,   :

   ;

   ;

     ;

   ;

   ;

         ;

    ,    .



   ,       ,     :  ,  ,  ,  ,      .



      ,   

       .       .



    ,       ,       .        .     ,    .



    .         ,      .               .



    :

    - .         ,    .



    .    .           ,        ,     .



 

   .            .



:

   ;

  ;

   ;

    ;

 ;

    ;

 ;

   ;

-   .



   ,    ,  .            ,    ,    .



     .

       .  ,             .

     .     ,          .

      ,        PRO.  3.           ,       .



           ,    ,  ,  ,      .






5.29.     


     ,        .    ,      .

 ,  p-phenylenediamine  toluene-2,5-diamine,            [7], [8], [9], [10], [11], [12].   ,        .   ,     ,  , allergy alert test,     .

            PPD   .  :                ,       ,    .

       : ,    .






5.30.      




  :

   ;

   ;

  ;

   ;

     .



   :

   ;

     ;

     ;

   ;

  ;

   ;

     ;

 -   .



       .  ,      ,      .




  .


   .

   ,     (https://www.litres.ru/pages/biblio_book/?art=73994183)  .

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