Tile Problems Solved
Alexandr Kondakov

© Alexandr Kondakov, 2026

ISBN 978-5-0070-9009-4

Created with Ridero smart publishing system

Tile Problems Solved

Diagnose, Repair, and Save Your Floor

Introduction

You don’t need a new floor. You need a fix.

You’re reading this because something is wrong with your tile. Maybe it’s cracked. Maybe it’s peeling. Maybe the grout is falling out, or the stains just won’t go away.

You’ve looked at it a hundred times. You’ve thought: «I should do something about this.» But you didn’t know what. Or where to start. Or whether it would even work.

Over 9 years of working in homes, I’ve seen every possible thing that can go wrong with a tiled surface. And I’ve fixed most of them.

Here’s what I’ve learned: Most tile problems are repairable. You don’t need to tear everything out. You don’t need to call an expensive contractor for every crack or chip. And you definitely don’t need to live with it.

This book isn’t about design. It’s not about theory. It’s a repair guide — plain and simple. Each chapter tackles one specific problem. It tells you why it happened, how to fix it, and how to make sure it doesn’t come back.

You don’t need to read the whole book. Just go to the chapter that matches your problem. Fix it. Move on with your life.

Because here’s the truth: a good floor doesn’t have to be perfect. It just has to work. And you’re about to learn exactly how to make yours work again.

Chapter 1: Cracks in Your Tile

What That Line on Your Floor Really Means

You walk into your kitchen and notice a thin line running across your tile floor. It wasn’t there last week. You run your finger over it — it’s rough. Your heart sinks.

Cracks in tile are terrifying. But here’s the truth: most cracks are fixable. And in 80% of cases, they don’t mean you need to replace the whole floor.

I’ve seen hundreds of cracked tiles. Here are the 5 most common reasons — and exactly how to fix each one.

5 Common Reasons for Cracks:

— Uneven subfloor — tap the tile with a screwdriver; a hollow sound means there’s a void beneath it.

— No expansion gaps — check if there’s a gap between the tile and the wall (should be at least 8—10 mm).

— Stiff adhesive — did the installer use flexible adhesive? (Class S1 or S2).

— Temperature changes — is this a heated floor? How often does it cycle on and off?

— Building settlement — is your home less than 3 years old? New buildings move.

Quick Fix #1: Hairline Crack (Less Than 1 mm)

— Clean the crack with a vacuum using a narrow nozzle.

— Fill it with epoxy resin or a tile repair compound.

— Let it dry completely (check the label — usually 4—6 hours).

— Sand it gently with fine-grit sandpaper (400—600 grit).

— Polish with a soft cloth.

Time: 30 minutes. Cost: $10—$15. Result: The crack disappears.

Quick Fix #2: Wide Crack (1—3 mm)

— Remove the damaged tile (work from the center outward using a chisel and hammer).

— Clean the subfloor — remove all old adhesive.

— Apply fresh flexible adhesive (Class S1 or S2).

— Press the tile back into place (or place a new one if the old one is broken). Old tiles are almost never available for purchase. If an identical match isn’t possible, choose a tile of the same size but a different color or pattern. Replace not just the broken one, but a few nearby tiles — creating an intentional design feature that looks like it was planned from the start.

— Re-grout the seam.

Time: 2—3 hours. Cost: $20—$50. Result: Good as new.

When to Stop Fixing and Start Replacing:

— Cracks keep appearing in the same spot → the subfloor is moving, you need to stabilize it.

— Multiple tiles are cracked → the problem is systemic (wrong adhesive, no expansion gaps).

— The tile has shifted → the subfloor may be rotting or severely uneven.

Prevention:

— Always use flexible adhesive (Class S1 or S2) — never the cheap stuff.

— Leave expansion gaps (8—10 mm) around the perimeter of the room.

— For large areas (over 6 meters), add movement joints every 5—6 meters.

— Wait 24 hours before walking on newly tiled floors — and 72 hours before placing furniture.

— In new buildings, wait at least 12 months before tiling (let the house settle).

Your Checklist:

☐ Checked the subfloor for voids (tapped — no hollow sound)

☐ Confirmed expansion gaps exist (8—10 mm at walls)

☐ Confirmed flexible adhesive was used (Class S1 or S2)

☐ Checked the temperature (not higher than +30° C during installation)

☐ If unsure — I called a professional

Chapter 2: Peeling or Lifting Tile

Why Your Tile Is Losing Its Grip

You walk across your kitchen floor and notice something feels off. One tile moves slightly under your foot. You press it — it sinks just a little. Tap it with a screwdriver — it sounds hollow.