 : ,      ,    
 


      ?      ,     ?

        . ,    ,      :    (  3:1:1)  NMF  ,   .

 :

         .

    (INCI)      .

  ,   ,    -.

   ,            .





 

 : ,      ,    





 :   ,  ,     





.   :     



      (stratum corneum)    ,     .      :     ,    ,   ,  ,     .












          ( )     :    ,     (cornified envelope),     ,     .



        ,        100%     .          ,      .



 :



Elias P.M., 1983:  , ,          ,            .




 1.   ( )    in situ:   





            ( ),         (stratum granulosum).         .











1.1.    




          : ,   ,      (-,  ).



                .



                  .        ( ),        ( :  :      3:1:1).




1.2.    


     9    (  Ceramide 1, 2, 3  ..).    Ceramide EOS (     ),          .                (TEWL).



 :



Feingold K.R., Elias P.M., 2014:                 3:1:1   .




 2.     NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor):     





   ()    ,         (NMF),    15%  20%       . NMF       ,       .




2.1.    NMF   


NMF                          :



1.   ( 40%    NMF):      (, , , , , ).



2.   (PCA)   12%:    ,   .



3.   (UCA)   79%:   ,    -    pH.



4.  (    )   12%:   ,   .



5.     (, , , )   1825%:      .



6.  : , ,   -.











2.2.  :     - NMF




  NMF     (   400 ).              ,       .         (-14  -)     .   -14   ,    NMF.




2.3.      




   NMF     ,       .       :             1020%.    NMF  ,  ,      .



 :



Rawlings A.V., Scott I.R., Harding C.R., et al., 1994:  ,              PCA,    .




 3.  :





  KLK  LEKTI

           ,        .




3.1.     


         (  1,  1  ).



         (KLK5  KLK7).       pH- (  4.55.5).



        ( , -  LEKTI),          .            .












 :



Eissa A. et al., 2011:     ,   pH      LEKTI   ,   .




 4.        





  pH   (4.55.5),    ,       (  ),    (   )     (-  NHE1).











4.1.   


       (Staphylococcus epidermidis, Cutibacterium acnes, Malassezia).      (, )  ,       ( Staphylococcus aureus),      .



   (  , ,      )   ,    ,      ,   ,     .



 :



Schmid-Wendtner M.H., Korting H.C., 2006:  ,     pH               .




 5.     (AD)    





  (AD)        ,              .




5.1.   FLG   




              (loss-of-function mutations)   FLG,  .

       NMF,         .       ,         3:1:1.




5.2.    Th2-    




     ( ,  ,  )      .     ,       Th2-.

       IL-4, IL-13  IL-31.      ,        ,      .



  ,     ,        (Staphylococcus aureus      ).    :   \to   \to Th2- \to    \to    .



 :



Irvine A.D., McLean W.H., Leung D.Y., 2011:  ,          ,            .




5.3.         AD




      ,        ,          :










    : ,  (  23   )    (-),      3:1:1 (, ,   ),     (   , , ).      3     (  ),     ,      .



  ( ):    ( )   .     (, )    ,  Th2-    IL-4/IL-13,      .



    :     ,   (SLS/SLES)   .        ( )   pH (4.55.5).    Staphylococcus aureus               .



      :          5060%,        (     ),    (,     ).        7080%      .




 1:  ,     





 1.   :         



    

           :     ,        .          .      ,    ,     .








   ,      (stratum basale),          ,       7075%.     ,   .            ,    ,    ,       .

    (stratum corneum)       1015%.    ( 70%   10% )   ,     .          . ,  (,      ,     )       .       10%,  ,      ,   ,           .

 TEWL (  )

      (-,  ,  ),   .              .    TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss).         ( 48 /?/),          .

 :   

   ,        ,  ,      .         ,    ,       .

        .    ,       .         ( ,   ,     3040%),        :    .     .

  (,          )              ,   ,     ,      .    ,   ,           .          .




 2.   :        



  

 ,      ,      .          :

1.  (): , ,    .    NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor)    ,      ,  ,   ,      .

2.  (  ):    ,    .        ,      .

  3:1:1 ( )

          .      ( ),       .          ,        3:1:1:

 (~50%): ,    ,      .    ,   .    INCI: Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine.     .

 (~25%):       ,  ,     .   INCI: Cholesterol.

   (1520%):      ,            pH  (     pH 4.75.5).   INCI: Linoleic Acid, Stearic Acid.








   ,        (,    ),        .   ,      TEWL.




  .


   .

   ,     (https://www.litres.ru/book/amina-udzieva-34088513/biokhimiia-kozhi-vsio-chto-nuzhno-znat-o-protsessakh-vnutri-74548838/)  .

      Visa, MasterCard, Maestro,    ,   ,     ,  PayPal, WebMoney, ., QIWI ,       .


