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3 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, peeled and sliced
1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed
1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes (or 450g/1lb tomatoes, peeled and chopped)
2 tbsp chopped herbs, such as basil, parsley, marjoram or tarragon
Salt, freshly ground black pepper and sugar
TO SERVE
450g (1lb) dried pasta, such as penne, fusilli or farfalle
1 x 150g (5oz) ball of mozzarella, broken into little pieces of 1cm (½in)
1 Preheat the oven to 230°C (450°F), Gas mark 8. Rub some olive oil over the peppers, then pop on a baking tray or glass plate and put into the hot oven. Cook for about 40 minutes or until very soft and a bit black. Take out of the oven, put into a bowl, cover with cling film and let cool. When cool, peel the skin off the peppers. Don’t rinse in water, or you’ll lose the flavour. I find it helps to have a bowl of water nearby in which to rinse my hands. Using a butter knife, scrape out the seeds. Tear or slice the peppers into strips.
2 To make the tomato sauce, heat the olive oil in a medium-sized saucepan. Add the onion and garlic, toss until coated, cover and sweat over a gentle heat until soft and a tiny bit golden. Add the tomatoes and half the chopped herbs, mix and season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Gently simmer, uncovered, for approximately 30 minutes or until softened. Add the remaining chopped herbs at the end.
3 Cook the pasta in a large pot of salted boiling water until just cooked, then drain and toss with the tomato sauce, add the roast peppers and mozzarella, season to taste and serve.
Slow-cooked Lamb Shanks with Piperonata
There are times when perfectly cooked lamb seems the cure for just about anything. I love lamb shanks for their tender, succulent texture and sweet, delicious flavour. They’re best cooked at a low temperature for a long time, about 3–4 hours, by which time the meat will be falling off the bone. The piperonata is a wonderful pepper and tomato stew that is very versatile. Serve it as a vegetable accompaniment to a roast as here, or with egg dishes such as omelettes. It can be made in advance and frozen. I often serve this dish with mashed potato (see page 27).
SERVES 4
FOR THE LAMB SHANKS
125g (5oz) streaky bacon, chopped into 1cm (½in) pieces
2 tbsp olive oil
4 lamb shanks
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
4 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed or grated
2 stalks of celery, chopped
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes
225ml (8fl oz) red wine
225ml (8fl oz) lamb or chicken stock
2 sprigs of fresh rosemary or 4 sprigs of fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
2 strips of orange peel (removed with a peeler)
Caster sugar
FOR THE PIPERONATA
3 tbsp olive oil
1 small onion, peeled and sliced
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed or grated
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 small red peppers
1 small yellow pepper
1 x 400g tin of chopped tomatoes or 4 large ripe tomatoes, peeled and sliced
1–2 tsp sugar
2 tbsp torn fresh basil or chopped fresh marjoram
1 First prepare the lamb shanks. Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F), Gas mark 2.
2 Boil the bacon in boiling water in a small saucepan for 1 minute, then rinse in cold water.
3 Place an ovenproof medium–large casserole pot or heavy large saucepan on a medium heat, pour in the olive oil and put in the lamb shanks, season and allow to brown slightly on all sides. Add all the remaining ingredients, season with salt, pepper and a couple of good pinches of sugar.
4 Bring up to the boil, then place in the oven and cook for 3 hours or until very tender – the meat should be almost falling off the bone.
5 While the lamb is cooking, make the piperonata. Heat the olive oil in a medium-sized casserole or saucepan. Add the onion and garlic, season with salt and pepper and cover (see the handy tip on page 15). Allow to cook gently on a low heat until the onion is soft, about 8 minutes.
6 Meanwhile, slice the peppers. Cut the peppers into quarters from top to bottom, remove the stalk and seeds, then cut into short slices crossways or cut into squares about 3cm (1¼in).
7 When the onion is soft, add the peppers, toss to mix, replace the lid and cook for another 8 or so minutes until the peppers are very soft.
8 Add in the tomatoes and season with salt, pepper and sugar. Cook uncovered for 15–20 minutes on a low heat until the sauce has
thickened and all the vegetables are cooked. Add the chopped herbs and season to taste.
9 When the lamb is cooked, take it out of the oven. I like to remove half of the sauce and liquidise it before adding it back into the pot.
10 Season to taste and serve together with the piperonata and mashed potato or bread, or allow to cool and reheat gently the following day.
Rachel’s handy tips
Perfect Mash
Sometimes there is nothing better than plain old mash, even just on its own! Of course, it’s delicious with so many foods, best of all with stews or roasts. You can leave it plain, or add buttered cabbage to make traditional Irish Colcannon, or add peas boiled in milk to make Irish Champ. Mash is incredibly versatile and marries well with so many flavours, so experiment with your additions, such as grated cheese, chopped herbs, spices (such as turmeric), crushed garlic, mustard, even horseradish! Mash also makes a great topping for pies and casseroles (see the recipe for Smoked Fish Pie on page 213).
SERVES 4
VEGETARIAN
1kg (2lb 4oz) floury potatoes (new potatoes are too waxy for mashing)
50g (2oz) butter
200ml (7fl oz) boiling milk, or 150ml (¼ pint) boiling milk and 60ml (2fl oz) single cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Clean the potatoes, but do not peel them. Place in a saucepan of cold water with a good pinch of salt.
2 Bring the water up to the boil and cook for 10 minutes. Then pour out all but about 4cm (1½in) of the water and continue to cook the potatoes on a very low heat. Do not be tempted to stick a knife into them – the skins will break and they will just break up and get soggy if you do. About 20 minutes later, when you think the potatoes might be cooked, test them with a skewer; if they are soft, take them off the heat. I find that cooking potatoes in their skins is the best way to make fluffy potatoes, ideal for mashing.
3 Peel the potatoes while they are still hot, holding them in a tea towel to prevent scalding your hands. Mash them immediately. Add the butter, but don’t add any milk until they are free of lumps. When the potatoes are mashed, add the boiling milk (or milk and cream) – you may not need it all, or you may need more, depending on the texture of the potatoes. Add some salt and pepper to taste.
Rachel’s handy tip
If you want to make the mash in advance, add a little extra milk, as the potatoes dry out as they sit. The mash keeps well in a warm oven as long as it is covered with a lid, plate or tin foil.
Pork and Mushroom Pie with Gentle Spices
Savoury pies always rank very high on people’s lists of soothing foods. This is a great dish to make in advance, giving the aromatic spices even more time to infuse into the meat.
SERVES 4
FOR THE ROUX
100g (4oz) butter
100g (4oz) plain flour
FOR THE FILLING
25g (1oz) butter
2 onions, peeled and chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
680g (1½lb) pork, cut into 1–2cm (½–¾in) cubes (shoulder or leg, fat removed)
250ml (9fl oz) chicken stock
1 tbsp olive oil
300g (11oz) button mushrooms, wiped and sliced or left whole or quartered if they are small
250ml (9fl oz) single cream
1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
FOR THE TOPPING
300g (11oz) puff or flaky pastry, rolled to 5mm (¼in) thick
1 egg, beaten
OR
1.25kg (2lb 12oz) mashed potato (see page 27)
1 To make the roux, heat a medium-sized saucepan over a medium heat and melt the butter, then add the flour, continuing to stir. Allow it to cook for 2 minutes. Pour into a small bowl and use straight away, or allow to cool and put in the fridge. Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F), Gas mark 3.
2 Melt the butter in a medium-sized casserole and add the onions and seasoning. Cover and sweat on a low heat for 5 minutes. Turn up the heat, add the ground spices and pork. Toss for a few minutes until the pork changes colour, then add the stock. Cover and cook in the oven for 45–60 minutes or until the pork is tender.
3 While the pork is cooking, heat the olive oil in a pan on a high heat and toss in the mushrooms. Cook for a few minutes until they are pale golden and then add to the pork after 30 minutes.
4 When the pork is cooked, remove the pork and mushrooms from their cooking liquid and set aside in a dish in a warm place. Add the cream to the juices in the pot and boil with the lid off for a few minutes until the flavour strengthens. To thicken the sauce, slowly whisk in about 2 tablespoons of roux while the mixture is boiling. Add the chopped parsley and return the pork and mushrooms. Season to taste and place in individual dishes or a large pie dish.
5 For a pastry topping, preheat the oven to 230°C (450°F), Gas mark 8. For a mashed potato topping, preheat it to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4.
6 For a pastry top, cut the pastry to the same size as the top of the pie dish and arrange over the filling. Make a hole in the centre for steam to escape. Brush with the beaten egg to glaze. Cook in the oven for 10 minutes, then turn down the temperature to 190°C (375°F), Gas mark 5 and cook for about 20 minutes, until the pastry is golden brown.
7 For a mashed potato top, arrange the mashed potato on top of the filling and lightly score the surface. Cook in the oven for 30–40 minutes or until golden brown on top and bubbling hot.
Greek Lamb, Onion and Butter Bean Stew
This is a rich and wonderful recipe from my mother-in-law, Darina, that I absolutely adore. We often make it at the cookery school. Like many other stews, it becomes even more delicious if made a day or two in advance. Serve with just a green salad, some mashed or boiled potatoes, or rice.
SERVES 4–6
2 tbsp olive oil
1.1kg (2½lb) shoulder of lamb, cut into 4cm (1½in) cubes
700g (1½lb) baby onions, peeled, or large onions, peeled and cut into quarters
6 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped
2 x 400g tins of cooked butterbeans, drained, or 225g (8oz) dried butter beans (see the handy tip for cooking instructions)
2 bay leaves
Generous sprig of fresh thyme
450ml (16fl oz) lamb or chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp coarsely chopped fresh parsley
1 Heat the olive oil in a medium-sized frying pan. Toss the meat, onions and garlic in the hot pan in batches until light golden, then transfer to a medium–large ovenproof casserole.
2 Drain the butter beans and add to the casserole with the bay leaves and thyme. Pour in the stock, to come about halfway up the meat, and add some salt and pepper.
3 Bring to the boil and simmer for 1–1½ hours, either on a low hob or in an oven preheated to 160°C (325°F), Gas mark 3, until all the ingredients are tender and juicy. Taste the stew – it may need more seasoning. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.
Rachel’s handy tip
If you are using dried butter beans, soak them in water for 5–6 hours or overnight. Drain and cover with fresh cold water and simmer in a medium-sized saucepan for 35–40 minutes until they are cooked through. Do not add salt because this will toughen the beans’ skin.
Bacon and Sausage Stew with Beans
This is simply heaven in a casserole dish! It is a hearty meal, and the perfect reward after a long winter walk.
SERVES 4
75g (3oz) dried black turtle beans (or black-eyed beans)
75g (3oz) borlotti beans or kidney beans
75g (3oz) cannellini beans or haricot beans or 2 x 400g tins of cooked beans, drained
8 rashers smoked bacon (about 300g/11oz), sliced into lardons
2 tbsp olive oil
4 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped
2 x 400g tins of chopped tomatoes or 800g (1lb 12oz) fresh tomatoes
1.2 litres (2 pints) chicken stock
225g (8oz) cabbage (preferably green, such as Savoy), thinly sliced
300g (11oz) smoked sausage, sliced into 5mm (¼in) thick pieces
2 tsp chopped fresh thyme
1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 If using dried beans, soak them in cold water for 5–6 hours or overnight, then drain, cover with fresh cold water and simmer for 35–40 minutes until they are cooked through.
2 Sauté the bacon in 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a flameproof casserole on a medium–high heat for a few minutes until golden. Add the garlic and cook for a few seconds, then add the tomatoes and the stock and simmer for 10 minutes.
3 Add the cooked, drained beans, then add the cabbage and sliced sausage and cook for a further 4 minutes. Add the chopped herbs, taste and correct the seasoning.
Childhood Favourites
We all have those special foods that conjure up warm, nostalgic feelings of childhood – meals that instantly transport you back in time in just one bite, whether they’re the favourite dinners you begged your mum to make (and still do), or the treats that you used to create with cherished family members. For me, every time I eat poached egg on buttery toast I think of nothing but my dad’s great weekend breakfasts before I went off to a hockey match. It’s amazing quite how powerful and wonderful these taste memories can be. These are a few favourites from my own family – perhaps they’ll become yours too.
Dad’s Brown Bread
My dad cooked few things when we were growing up, but he was famous for his amazing brown bread. I love big, thick slices of it, buttered and spread with jam. Though you can halve the quantities to make just one loaf, I usually make two loaves and freeze one.
MAKES 2 X 900G (2LB) LOAVES VEGETARIAN
Sunflower oil, for greasing
350g (12oz) wholemeal flour
350g (12oz) plain flour
75g (3oz) bran
50g (2oz) wheatgerm
50g (2oz) pinhead oatmeal or oats
50g (2oz) brown sugar
1½ tsp salt
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
2 eggs
1 litre (1¾ pints) buttermilk
1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6.
2 Grease 2 x 900g (2lb) loaf tins with sunflower oil or line with parchment or non-stick paper.
3 Place the flours, bran, wheatgerm, oatmeal, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Sift in the baking powder and bicarbonate of soda. Mix thoroughly.
4 Whisk the eggs in a separate bowl and add the buttermilk. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients and pour in the eggs and buttermilk. Using one hand with your fingers open and stiff, mix in a full circle, bringing the flour and liquid together. The dough should be soft and sloppy.
5 Divide the dough between the prepared tins and place in the centre of the oven. Bake for 1 hour, then remove the bread from the tin and place back in the oven again without the tins for another 10–15 minutes until the loaves sound hollow when you tap them on the bottom.
Rachel’s handy tip
If you slice your bread before you freeze it, then all you have to do is take a piece out of the freezer whenever you want toast.
Baked Cheesy Pasta
My sister and I absolutely loved this kind of cheesy pasta when growing up, and now I make it for my children. Sometimes I add chopped parsley. This can be prepared in advance and baked just before you are ready to eat.
SERVES 4–6
VEGETARIAN
375g (13oz) dried pasta, such as conchiglie shells, fusilli or macaroni
300ml (½ pint) single cream
125ml (4fl oz) vegetable or chicken stock
1 tsp Dijon mustard
150g (5oz) Gruyère cheese, grated
150g (5oz) Cheddar cheese, grated
50g (2oz) Parmesan cheese, grated
Freshly ground black pepper
MAKES 750ML (1¼ PINTS)
VEGETARIAN
150g (5oz) honey
600ml (1 pint) water
Juice of 4 lemons
TO SERVE
Ice
1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4.
2 Cook the pasta according to the instructions on the packet. Drain.
3 Meanwhile, place the cream and stock in another saucepan and bring to the boil. Take off the heat and add the mustard, the Gruyère and Cheddar cheeses and half of the Parmesan. Stir to melt all the cheese. Season with some pepper (it may not need any salt). Pour into the drained pasta and stir to mix.
4 Pour into a 25cm (10in) square or similar rectangular ovenproof gratin dish and sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan cheese. When you are ready to eat, place the dish in the oven and cook for 15–20 minutes or until brown on top and bubbling around the sides.
Old-fashioned Lemonade
This lemonade always reminds me of long, hot summers spent outdoors without a care in the world. The honey adds a much more interesting flavour than sugar. You can add fresh lime juice if you wish, but I love the simple lemon and honey flavours.
1 Place the honey and 60ml (2fl oz) of the water in a saucepan and heat up just enough to liquefy the honey. Then pour into a jug and allow to cool slightly.
2 Add the rest of the water together with the lemon juice and serve with ice.
Sesame Goujons of Fish with Mushy Peas and Oven Roast Chips
Fish ’n’ chips are a rite of passage. They’re such a great and simple combination, and so universally loved. How can you eat mushy peas and not feel like a six-year-old again? The finger-size goujons and the sesame seeds just add a little twist to this old favourite.
SERVES 4
4–6 fillets (about 450g/1lb) of plaice or lemon sole
Sunflower oil, for frying
300ml (½ pint) milk
100g (4oz) plain flour
Pinch of salt
3 tbsp sesame seeds
FOR THE OVEN ROAST CHIPS
4–8 potatoes, peeled
30ml (1fl oz) olive oil
FOR THE MUSHY PEAS
225g (8oz) peas (can be frozen)
15g (½oz) butter or 1 tbsp olive oil
1 Prepare the fish by cutting it lengthways or at an angle into goujons (finger-sized pieces), about 1cm (½in) wide and 10cm (4in) long. Place the fish in a small bowl with the milk. Place the flour, salt and sesame seeds in another bowl. Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas mark 7.
2 To make the oven roast chips, cut the peeled potatoes into chips, about 1cm (½in) wide. Place in a medium–sized saucepan, cover with boiling water from the kettle and boil for 1 minute, drain and spread out on kitchen paper to dry. Put the dried potatoes in a bowl and toss with the olive oil, spread out in a single layer in a baking tray and cook in the oven for 15–20 minutes or until golden and cooked.
3 Meanwhile, make the mushy peas. Bring a medium-sized saucepan with 500ml (18fl oz) water to the boil, drop in the peas, cover with the lid just until the water comes back to the boil on a high heat. Then remove the lid and boil for 1–2 minutes until the peas are just cooked but still bright green. Immediately drain them (reserving some of the liquid) and whiz them in a food processor with the butter or olive oil; you may need to add a tiny drop of the cooking liquid or cream if the mixture is too thick. Return the mushy peas to a saucepan for reheating later.