With God in the Yellowstone

CHAPTER V

NORRIS GEYSER BASIN

When we arrived at Norris (formerly Gibbon) Geyser Basin, I was so cold I could scarcely use my limbs. The first attraction was a great, boiling spring at the left as we entered the basin. I immediately felt the change in the atmosphere, and soon got warm after reaching the board walk under which the boiling water was flowing, the hot steam everywhere being forced out through apertures.

Here was my first sight of the clear water geysers. The Constant, with a maximum height of twenty feet, plays at intervals of from thirty to sixty seconds. The Minute Man plays at intervals of from one to three minutes with a duration of about the same length of time. In this basin are also the Echinus, the Fearless, the Monarch, with a maximum height of fifty feet, playing at intervals of twenty-five to sixty minutes, the New Crater, the Whirligig, and the Valentine. The maximum height of the Valentine is a hundred feet and the time of eruptions varies from twenty-two to thirty hours.

The Black Growler Steam Vent growled continually, sending forth great volumes of steam. The deposit around the crater is black in some places. The vent north of the Black Growler is called the Hurricane. It looks much like the former, but is not so active. The Bath Tub does not erupt, but is in constant agitation. Emerald Pool is a large lake of boiling water, green in appearance.

New Crater Geyser is surrounded by large blocks of yellow rock. In the vicinity of this geyser, in 1891, a commotion occurred, very much like an earthquake, when great volumes of water were forced out. Since then there have been only ordinary eruptions, about every three minutes. The form of the crater is such that the water is prevented from attaining any great height.

Monarch Geyser, near the base of the hill, is almost surrounded by beautifully colored rocks. The crater has two openings, the larger of which is twenty feet long and three feet wide. Eruptions occur without warning, and water is thrown a hundred feet high. The intervals between eruptions are about six hours.

The Fearless Geyser throws water in every direction, apparently defying those who wish to approach it. Norris is a new geyser, and is probably changing more rapidly than any other in the basin. One never knows what changes a season may bring forth.

The Minute Man is always interesting, especially on account of its regularity. Its crater seems originally to have been merely a fissure in a rock.

A few miles from Norris Basin is Elk Park, a valley surrounded by timbered hills. Across the river from the road is Chocolate Spring, which has built a cone of chocolate color.

Monument Geyser Basin is on the summit of Mt. Schurz. There is not much to justify the tourist in making the ascent, as there are only a dozen or two of crumbling geyser cones, some of which steam and rumble, while others are apparently extinct.

On the east side of the river we entered Gibbon Canyon, and for several miles were shadowed by towering cliffs, in some places a thousand feet high.

Beryl Spring is the largest boiling spring in the canyon. It is fifteen feet across, and about a mile from the entrance. While our touring car was dashing around the mountainside, suddenly we came to Gibbon Fall. Here, from a height of over eighty feet, bubbling and foaming torrents of water tumble down the steep cascades.

At National Park Mountain, our driver announced that we were at the confluence of the Gibbon and Firehole Rivers. It was here that the famous Washburn exploring party, in 1870, decided that the Yellowstone region should be set aside as a National Park, and from that time put forth their efforts to this end. Among the most enthusiastic were Cornelius Hedges, David E. Folsom, Lieut. Doane, and Nathaniel P. Langford. How providential it was that these unselfish, public-spirited men should have taken up the subject at that time!

I did not know that the junction of the Gibbon and Firehole Rivers was an historical place, but was so fascinated with the scenery, I felt that I should like to camp there for a week, and have an opportunity to make notes preparatory to publishing an account of my trip. To me, there was unusual attraction, and something very romantic, about the Firehole River. I had heard how it was fed by the geysers and boiling springs, and this added enchantment to its many charms. At one place I saw a great boulder in the river, from the sides of which were growing two spruce or pine trees.

At the Lower and Midway Basins are the Great Fountain and Excelsior Geysers. The Excelsior, better known as "Hell's Half Acre," ceased to play in 1888. Previous to this it was known to throw water to a height of 300 feet, the time of the eruptions varying from one to four hours. Great Fountain expels the water to a height of 100 feet, playing for thirty minutes, and its eruptions are from eight to twelve hours apart. At the present time Excelsior Geyser is a boiling lake, where the steam often prevents one from getting a good view of it.

The Mammoth Paint Pots held my undivided interest for the limited time that I had. This is a boiling mass of mud, white at the center, and gradually developing into a beautiful pink, or flesh color toward the outer edges. The caldron of waxen mixture has a basin forty by sixty feet in size, with a rim about five feet high. The mud in the center bubbles up continually, "plop, plop," under the pressure of heat, and cools off toward the outer edges.

David E. Folsom witnessed a display of the Great Fountain Geyser in 1869:

"The hole through which the water was discharged was ten feet in diameter, and was situated in the center of a large circular shallow basin into which the water fell. There was a stiff breeze blowing at the time, and by going to the windward side and carefully picking our way over convenient stones we were enabled to reach the edge of the hole. At that moment the escaping steam was causing the water to boil up in a fountain five or six feet high. It stopped in an instant, and commenced settling down—twenty, thirty, forty feet—until we concluded that the bottom had fallen out, but the next instant, without any warning, it came rushing up and shot into the air at least eighty feet, causing us to stampede. It continued to spout at intervals of a few moments for some time, but finally subsided."

Prismatic Lake fairly dazzled me with its beauty. In the center it is a deep blue, blending into green toward the edges. In the shallow portion it is yellow, blending into orange at the edges. The water sparkles and flows off in every direction over the slightly raised rim of the lake. Its beauty and delicacy of coloring are impossible to describe. It is heated to nearly 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

Biscuit Basin and Sapphire Pool are places of much interest, also Jewel Geyser, Artemisia Geyser, etc.

Morning Glory Spring, near Riverside Bridge, presented to me an idea of what the earth will be when the curse is lifted and it is clothed in Edenic glory. It is twenty-three feet in diameter, with a temperature of 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and with an apparent depth of about thirty feet.

I had not previously made a study of the Park, and never knew what was coming next, but before I reached Old Faithful Camp at the Upper Geyser Basin, I felt that I had seen enough to repay me a thousand-fold for any expense or effort that was being made in the tour of the Yellowstone, which to me was truly a world of wonders.

CHAPTER VI

UPPER GEYSER BASIN

It was about noon when we reached the Upper Geyser Basin, and I felt that it would be profitable to take a little rest before going any further into the mysteries of this "wonderland." Old Faithful was due to play shortly after we reached the camp, but I was too far away when it was announced she was in action to get the full benefit of the display, and went back to the camp to wait another seventy minutes. The long drive in the forenoon, and the exposure to the cold, caused me to feel weary and dull, nevertheless I made an effort to be on hand at every eruption, which to me became more and more fascinating.

Old Faithful Inn accommodates 400 guests. It is constructed of boulders and logs, with peaks, angles, dormers, French windows, etc. This most restful and impressive abode of the tourists is only two or three minutes' walk from Old Faithful Geyser, and so located as to give from its balconies a splendid view of the display.

The office-room is 75 feet square and 92 feet high, and reaches to the roof, with a massive chimney that rises to the top. The building is surrounded with beautiful grounds, furnished with rustic seats. The chimney is fourteen feet square with eight fireplaces, and balconies are built around three sides. While everything is of the rustic order, there is nothing commonplace about the hotel or its furnishings. "It is a creation of art from the foundation to the peak of the roof."

Old Faithful Geyser in the forefront of Old Faithful Inn is like a sentinel, and so named because of the regularity of its eruptions. Its crater, from which the water is expelled to a height of 150 feet, is an oblong opening, two by six feet, at the top of a mound of geyserite. Its eruptions sometimes vary a few minutes, in the meantime giving warning with two or three short spurts, increasing in volume until the maximum height is reached. The display is short, most of the water falling back into the crater, but no more fascinating or impressive scene could be found. The formations around are brilliant in color, resembling the more subdued tints and hues seen at the Mammoth Hot Springs.

In the early part of the afternoon, a number of tourists, including my brother and sister, went with a guide to Geyser Hill. After their return, they had much to say about what they had seen and heard. Later in the day I felt rested and wanted to make the trip, and my brother and sister went with me. They had learned all they could from the guide and were ready to name the various geysers, springs, and pools, and describe their operations to me. Of these, the Giantess, Beehive, and Sponge Geysers, were the most interesting. The Giantess occupies the most prominent position on the hill. Its displays attain a height of about 100 feet, and are accompanied by shocks and tremors much like earthquakes. The entire eruption lasts from twelve to twenty-four hours. The crater appears to be about thirty feet in diameter, and after each eruption a steam period ensues. In 1911, the eruptions varied from four to twelve days. Some years previous to this, the eruptions took place about once a month. It is believed that while activity, as a whole, is decreasing in the geyser regions, a century brings only a slight change.

I stood near the crater of the Giantess during the steam period. For a moment the vapor cleared away, and I could see down the great neck of the crater into a yawning chasm, so angry and terrible, as to make me feel that I had seen with the eye what the Bible describes as the bottomless pit, where the sulphurous flames belch forth, and "where their worm dieth not, and the fire is not quenched" (Mark 9:44).

If there are those who have doubts as to the reality of the lake of fire, of which Jesus told His disciples, in the 16th chapter of St. Luke, they should by all means go to the regions of the Yellowstone: for here, vividly presented to the vision, are the realities of a burning underworld, with only a thin crust between it and the habitation of human beings.

The Bible clearly teaches that hell is located in the center of this earth, and therefore it must be conceded that the ebon throne of Diabolus is somewhere in the heated regions below, the intensity of which the geysers, pools, springs, and volcanoes are continually demonstrating.

Whatever may be involved in the separation of soul and body, it is nevertheless true that the immortal spirit that has not appropriated the atoning blood must dwell in the confines of the bottomless pit, which is described in the Scriptures as being in the center of this earth. Here are the flames by which Dives was tormented when he begged Abraham to send Lazarus with a drop of water to cool his parched tongue, and made an appeal for some one to go to his father's house to warn his five brothers not to come to that place of torment. Abraham had to refuse both requests, saying, "Son, remember that thou in thy lifetime receivedst thy good things, and likewise Lazarus evil things: but now he is comforted, and thou art tormented. And beside all this, between us and you there is a great gulf fixed: so that they which would pass from hence to you cannot; neither can they pass to us, that would come from thence." Then, when he wanted some one to go to his father's house to warn his brothers, Abraham said, "They have Moses and the prophets; let them hear them." But still the doomed man continued and said, "If one went unto them from the dead, they will repent," but he was told, "If they hear not Moses and the prophets, neither will they be persuaded, though one rose from the dead." How true this is! After all the influence that can be brought to bear upon people, they rebel against God and follow their own precepts; and true to fallen human nature, ask for greater evidence of His power. "The wicked shall be turned into hell, and all the nations that forget God" (Ps. 9:17). This and other plain scriptures should be sufficient to warn men to flee the wrath to come. Optimism and presumption everywhere characterize the multitudes when it comes to this most important question concerning the future welfare of the soul.

The man who had allowed the devil to deceive him and take him at last to his abode in the regions of torment, was still presumptuous and persistent. He wanted help, which it was impossible for him to receive, and also warning given to his father's house, which they had refused to take through Moses and the prophets.

It is necessary at this period of the world's history to have an object lesson like that of the Yellowstone National Park to convince people of the infallibility of God's word. It is the time of the fulfilment of prophecy concerning the last days, of which Paul says,

"This know also, that in the last days perilous times shall come. For men shall be lovers of their own selves, covetous, boasters, proud, blasphemers, disobedient to parents, unthankful, unholy, Without natural affection, truce-breakers, false accusers, incontinent, fierce, despisers of those that are good, Traitors, heady, highminded, LOVERS OF PLEASURES MORE THAN LOVERS OF GOD" (2 Tim. 3:1-5).

Many pleasure seekers are now thronging Yellowstone Park, and in ten thousand demonstrations are having to face the realities of God's word and the life that is to come. I saw some of them standing near the yawning craters of the geysers under deep conviction, and no doubt silently resolving to live different lives, while others frankly stated that the depths of their beings had been disturbed, and that it was no time to trifle with the soul.

There is no such thing as shirking the responsibility, where Nature co-operates with the Almighty on such a tremendous scale in the display of His power. A person may try to stifle his conscience and refuse to yield to the voice that speaks from above, but he can not evade the fact that the issue must be met; and why not yield to the pressure and make the decision now? Life at best is short, and it is perilous to crowd into some future time the things that should be taken under consideration now.

The Teakettle and the Vault give warning before the Giantess erupts. The Vault plays eight feet high, twenty-four hours before the Giantess.

Topaz at the base of the Giantess mound is a pool of remarkable beauty. I was much interested in the Pump near the Sponge Geyser. It is a hole eighteen inches across, out of which comes a thumping sound, resembling a hydraulic ram.

The Sponge Geyser has a beautiful cone of flinty formation resembling that of a sponge. Eruptions are about four feet high, occuring a minute and a quarter apart.

The Beehive Geyser has a cone four feet high and three feet across, and plays to the height of 200 feet. Its indicator, a small fissure north of the cone, foretells its eruptions. It is supposed that there is some relationship between the Beehive and the Giantess from the fact that the Beehive plays at intervals of from eight to twelve hours after the Giantess and has been seen to play before the Giantess.

The Doublet Pool is near the Giantess and is marked "Dangerous." The geyser formations accumulate very slowly and the water here flows out over a thin crust.

The Lion Geyser, with the Lioness and two Cubs, occupies a prominent place not far from the Giant. Its eruptions occur usually in series of three, about two and one-half hours apart, after which follows a quiet period of about twelve hours. The first eruption is the highest and most charming in appearance. The water is forced up fifty or sixty feet high, the eruption lasting about five minutes.

During some seasons the Lioness has not played at all. In 1903 it is said that the Lioness and both Cubs played at the same time to a large party of tourists. The larger Cub plays with the Lioness to a height of about thirty feet, the smaller one plays oftener, but only a few feet high.

Castle Geyser is on a prominence opposite Geyser Hill. The mound on which it is situated covers about three acres, rising more than forty feet above the river. It has the most prominent cone in the Upper Basin, resembling an old castle. At intervals the steam escapes and throws out jets of water, though it erupts only every two days. Near Castle Geyser is Castle Spring, a beautiful pool of water, highly colored.

The Sawmill Geyser gets its name from the peculiar noise it makes during an eruption. It plays at intervals of three or four hours and at a height of about forty feet. Its indicator is near-by; they both start together and suddenly begin to throw water in all directions.

The Grand Geyser discharges water in forked columns 200 feet high. It is said to play much more frequently in the spring than in the fall. This is because the water supply is greater in the mountain regions at this season.

Turban Geyser is near the Grand. The early explorers believed that internal fires were seen in its crater; if so, it was caused, no doubt, by the light playing on bubbles of gas. Firehole Lake furnishes a good example of this phenomenon. The Turban Geyser plays about twenty-five feet high. Sometimes its eruptions occur with the Grand Geyser.

The Economic Geyser gets its name from the fact that during its eruptions nearly all the water flows back into its crater. In form it resembles Old Faithful, but plays only about fifteen feet high.

Beauty Spring attracts much attention. It is a large, silent pool remarkable for its coloring. Almost every person, when approaching it for the first time, remarks about its beauty, hence, our guide said, it received its name. A rusty color predominates in various shades from the richest brown, blending into green and yellow tints.

Butterfly Spring is about four feet across and has an opening in each wing. It looks like a butterfly in both color and shape. These double springs, of which I saw a number, as heretofore stated, have a spiritual significance, illustrating the two works of grace, justification and sanctification, so clearly taught in both the Old and the New Testament.

The Ear is a most remarkable small spring. Not only is it in the shape of an ear, but its lobe seems to be pierced, and the earring is a tiny geyser. "It is here that messages are transmitted, so the story goes, to regions below."

Beach Spring reminded me of an oyster, the opening in the center corresponding to the dark spot. It is surrounded by a flat, submerged beach.

After we had visited the springs and geysers on the hill, we returned to the camp to await the next number on the day's program.

CHAPTER VII

UPPER GEYSER BASIN (CONT.)

Shortly after dinner the news was circulated that a religious service was to be held in the office of the camp, where the guests assembled around the large fireplace. I learned from some friends that our party was expected to conduct the meeting. Later, the manager asked me to take charge of the service. She said that it would be impossible to get the people in until after 8:30 o'clock, as Old Faithful would be due to make a display about that time, and that the great searchlight from the hotel would be turned on the geyser when the water reached its maximum height. This caused much excitement among the guests, and every person sought the best position to get a view of the display.

Immediately afterward the people gathered in for the service. Song books were passed around and a lively interest was taken in the singing, in which nearly every one joined. My brother and his wife sang a number of pieces together which greatly pleased the audience. My brother then preached a short sermon and I followed, giving them some interesting history concerning the Pillar of Fire church. This seemed to be the subject in which most of them were interested, and I was glad to be able to give them the information they desired. There is so much akin to the supernatural in the Yellowstone it made the preaching of the Gospel easy on this occasion.

The day, after having been full of interest and inspiration, closed with a message of salvation for the people, which was best of all. Many gathered around us to express their appreciation of the service.

The next morning I arose refreshed and ready to finish the tour of the Upper Geyser Basin, which contains twenty-six geysers and more than four hundred hot pools and springs. A party of "hikers," with a guide, started out about nine o'clock to make the rounds before luncheon. I was not quite sure that I could keep up with them, but as many of the places are not accessible to vehicles I had to make the attempt or miss my opportunity.

The basin is drained in the center by the Firehole River. Everywhere steaming hot springs are seen, also mounds and cones of geyserite. In this basin, within a square mile, are the grandest and mightiest geysers in the world. There are pools of scalding water whose marvelous beauty and delicacy of coloring cannot be described. Everywhere are undulations crowned with geyser cones, or hot spring vents of a grayish white appearance. In places, the earth trembles, strange rumblings are heard, and the air is heavy with sulphurous fumes. How could it be otherwise but that a person should feel that he is in close proximity to the Inferno which Dante so vividly described!

The Riverside Geyser, on the banks of the Firehole River, plays, we were told, "Over the River" at intervals of six or seven hours. Sometimes eruptions occur more frequently for a period of several days.

Grotto Geyser has the most attractive formation of any geyser in the park. The Washburn party named it in 1870. Its eruptions are irregular, occurring at intervals of two to eight hours and lasting from fifteen minutes to eight hours. Sometimes the Grotto ceases and the Rocket plays to a height of fifty feet. After it has ceased, the Grotto resumes action.

The Giant Geyser, south of the Grotto, is the highest in the world. We found a person near it in soldier's uniform who said he had been waiting there a week to see it play. Its maximum height is 250 feet, which is reached during the first twenty minutes of its eruption. Its cone is ten feet high with one side partly broken off. Eruptions occur every seven to twelve days.

Near the Giant are three "boiling caldrons," Catfish, Bijou, and Mastiff. These are supposed to be indicators, but it is uncertain whether the eruptions of the Giant are foretold by them.

The Daisy is a very beautiful and reliable geyser, erupting every one and a half to two hours. Seventy-five feet is its maximum height.

The Bonita Pool, across the road, acts as an indicator.

The Brilliant is a beautiful blue hot spring and near to it is the Comet, which has built up a small cone of geyserite.

When our party reached Castle Geyser on a hill opposite the Giantess, our guide called attention to the fact that the Giantess was in action. Our time was limited, but every member of the party wanted to cross the bridge and go to Geyser Hill and get as near to its crater as possible. We did so, and it was at this time, during the steam period, when the water had receded, that I got a glimpse into its awful depths; and trembled at the yawning chasm which threatened to engulf us. It looked as if it might be connected with the place where the king of darkness dwells and his organized forces operate. We had only a few minutes to tarry, and hastened back to the vicinity of Castle Geyser to renew the journey.