The Overland Guide-book

Passengers by these boats and their baggage. – 17 days after landing at the lazaret; 14 days only when the baggage shall have been plombé at the consulate of France at the port of embarking, and that this operation be legally certified.

Art. 2. French or foreign men-of-war. – 17 days after the landing of passengers and their baggage.

Passengers on board these vessels. – 17 days without spoglio, 14 days with spoglio.

Art. 3. Vessels with pilgrims. – 25 days.

Pilgrims. – 25 days after landing.

Art. 4. Every other description of sailing-vessel or steam-boat. – 21 days after landing suspected articles.

Passengers by these vessels. – 17 days without spoglio, 14 days with spoglio. Merchandise. – 21 days after landing at the lazaret.

WITH DOUBTFUL BILLS OF HEALTH

Art. 1. French post-office packets. – 15 days after debarking effects and passengers.

Passengers by these boats and their baggage. – 14 days after landing; 12 days only when the baggage shall have been plombé at the consulate of France at the point of embarking, and that this operation be legally certified.

Art. 2. – French or foreign men-of-war. – 14 days after the landing of passengers and their baggage. Without passengers, 12 days.

Passengers on board these vessels. – 14 days after landing without spoglio, and 12 days with spoglio.

Art. 3. Vessels with pilgrims. – 20 days.

Pilgrims. – 20 days after landing at the lazaret.

Art. 4. Every other description of sailing vessel or steam-boat. – 15 days after landing suspected articles.

Passengers by these vessels. – 14 days without spoglio, after landing at the lazaret; 12 days with spoglio.

Suspected goods. – 15 days after landing at the lazaret.

WITH CLEAN BILLS OF HEALTH

Art. 1. French post-office packets. – 12 days after debarking effects at the lazaret.

Passengers by these boats and their baggage. – 9 days after landing, and their baggage exposed to the air.

Art. 2. French or foreign men-of-war. – 9 days, with or without passengers.

Passengers on board these vessels. – 9 days after landing, and their baggage exposed to the air.

Art. 3. Every other description of vessel or steam-boat. – 12 days after landing suspected goods.

Passengers by these vessels. – 9 days.

Suspected merchandise. – 12 days after landing at the lazaret.

Of the Syra (Athens) quarantine, it is enough to say that it is more commodious and agreeable than the same establishment at Marseilles, and not so convenient as the one at Malta.

The Syra lazaretto is, according to the report of the latest visitors, exceedingly commodious and clean, and facing, as it does, the sea, where there are continual breezes, it is infinitely cooler than the city of Athens. The charges of the Trattoria are not greater than those at Malta (about eleven shillings per diem), and the detention in quarantine never exceeds seventeen days, and when a clean bill of health is brought by the French steamer from Alexandria, the duration of the imprisonment is very much less.

THE VOYAGE TO SOUTHAMPTON

Quarantine, on arrival in England, being done away with (unless some special cause arise on the voyage home to render precaution necessary), the direct route is greatly to be preferred; and the ease and comfort which it offers as contrasted with the annoyances of continental travelling needs no comment.

On reaching Southampton, the steamer goes into dock; the whole of the luggage is forthwith conveyed to the dock warehouse, and the examination commences with that of the first person on the list.

Passengers are not required to attend in person when their luggage is examined. Those who desire to leave Southampton by train immediately upon arrival, or who do not wish to subject themselves to the annoyance of being kept in the docks waiting their turn, are recommended to deposit their keys (including name and address) with Mr. Hill's clerk,12giving him, at the same time, a list of the packages, distinguishing such as contain articles subject to duty. For want of proper arrangement on the part of the passenger, we have known three hours pass in the examination of one gentleman's baggage, with upwards of eighty of his fellow-travellers anxiously waiting for their turn. This arises, in the first place, from the large quantity of luggage which many bring; and, in the second, from the want of system in packing, distinguishing that which is immediately requisite from that which is unnecessary.

As passengers will be required to keep pace with the mails in either route, unless they arrange for a fortnight's stay in Egypt, the system of having a larger quantity of luggage than is actually necessary cannot be too much deprecated.

The traveller is also apt to mix "duty goods" with personal luggage, in anticipation of their escaping notice. This is a "forlorn hope," and leads invariably to the most rigid scrutiny of every package, thereby causing great delay. If the goods be such as trinkets, Bombay work-boxes, Dacca or Cuttack silver, China or India filligree packed in cotton, a still greater commotion arises at the custom-house, and we are not quite sure whether the circumstance does not render the articles liable to seizure and confiscation, under the quarantine laws.

The better plan by far, whether the traveller attend the examination of his luggage or not, is to separate all goods liable to duty, and put them in a case or trunk, with an inventory of its contents, and the value of each article separately stated,13and then leave them in charge of Mr. Hill, with instructions to forward them without delay. They can, of course, be examined at once; but we think it unfair to subject others to the inconvenience and loss of time that must consequently ensue. If the plan here recommended be followed, we venture to submit that it would be satisfactory to all parties.

A general tariff of East India fabrics will be found in the Appendix; but it is not generally known that all British manufactures that have been exported, and purchased out of Great Britain, are subject to a duty if re-imported. Being private property, however, they are generally released on petition to the Board of Customs, the petition being accompanied by a solemn declaration made by the owner before a magistrate, that the claim set forth in the petition is true. The reason assigned for this law is, that it protects and promotes English manufacture, by preventing a return of goods to the country that have once been exported for sale.

Parties who, from necessity or choice, bring servants from India, have too frequently so indefinite an agreement, that disputes and unpleasantnesses in settling with them frequently arise. We, therefore, earnestly recommend passengers to endeavour to do without personal servants, if possible; but if it be impracticable to dispense with them, we would suggest that the engagement should specify whether services cease on arrival, – if the servants are to be returned to India at the expense of the employer and – whether it shall be viâ the Cape or Overland. The agreement should likewise state the allowance that will be made for board-wages. Sixteen shillings per week is the sum charged at the lodging-houses for this class.

Persons arriving from India, particularly families, incur great expense by proceeding, on their arrival, direct to hotels or to furnished lodgings. In most cases they would do better by resorting to a boarding-house. There are many suitable establishments of this nature throughout England, where comfortable accommodation is afforded at a moderate charge. A letter of inquiry, written on the passage from Alexandria to Malta, and dispatched viâ Marseilles, would be answered, and wait the writer's arrival at Southampton.

EXPENSE

We must not omit to advert to the total expense of an Overland journey, for it is an important question to all who must go to India. We think it will be found, on a fair calculation, that this is, by no means, so much in excess of the cost round the Cape of Good Hope as people are led to imagine.

Independently of the cost, there are other important points worthy of consideration, which are frequently forgotten by those who suffer themselves to be engrossed by the mere pecuniary view of the question. For example, there is an amazing difference in the time consumed in the two routes. Proceeding Overland, there will be two months gained which may be either passed at home, or, if the attractions of England have ceased, can be employed in anticipating the stipulated period of a return to, or arrival in India. In the latter case – for we presume the traveller to be in the East India Company's service – the Indian pay will be received two months sooner, and what is of greater moment, by far, two months' time is gained in "actual service," a consideration which, at some future day, may be of the last importance to the civil or military officer.

If to these advantages we add the difference in the cost of the equipment for a six weeks' and a four months' trip; the knowledge acquired by witnessing variety of scenery and diversity of manners; the effect on the health and spirits of perpetual change; the slight risk of delays from accidental want of water and provisions, damage in gales of wind, and other casualties which often drive sailing vessels into intermediate ports and prolong their voyage, there can, we should think, be no difference of opinion as to the superior claims of the Overland Route.

As the nature of the currency with which the traveller should supply himself is a question of great importance, we consider it within our province to remark, that sovereigns are, by far, the best coin that can be carried, for purposes of general supply. Letters of credit may be obtained, however, to be used in the event of accident rendering additional funds necessary; but it is prudent to endeavour to avoid a resort to them, for the exchange and commission on advances made upon such letters of credit, subject the drawer to considerable loss, an observation that applies particularly to Egypt. At Ceylon the sovereign is at a premium, frequently fetching twenty-one shillings.

MISCELLANEOUS

For the information of such travellers as purpose varying their journey, by visiting the various places which occur en route, we subjoin the following particulars: —

England to Gibraltar, by the Peninsular Steamers, calling at Vigo, Oporto, Lisbon and Cadiz.– These steamers start from Southampton on the 7th, 17th, and 27th of every month, at 3 o'clock in the afternoon. They proceed, in the first instance, to Vigo, to land the mails for that part of Spain, affording to the traveller a view of the magnificent scenery of Vigo Bay and the Bayona Islands. Thence the steamer proceeds close along the coast, which presents a splendid panoramic view of "mount and dale," with numerous towns and villages interspersed, until she arrives off Oporto, where she stops to land mails and passengers, but does not enter the port. The passengers, however, will have a good view of the Fortress of San Joa da Foz, the Convent of the Sierra at Villa Nova, &c., so celebrated in the war between Don Pedro and Don Miguel; also the city of Oporto, which looks very picturesque from the sea. Leaving Oporto, she holds her course on for Lisbon, and, passing the Burlings Rocks, and Rock of Lisbon, will enter the Tagus generally on the fourth day from leaving Southampton.

Lisbon, &c.– The view of Lisbon, on entering the Tagus, is beautiful beyond description. The steamer usually remains here a day, before starting again on her passage southward for Cadiz and Gibraltar, and this will enable travellers to take a cursory view of the Lusitanian capital; but it is recommended that they should, if time permits, stop ten days here, proceeding to Cadiz or Gibraltar by the following steamer.

There are very good hotels now at Lisbon, and the town is greatly improved in cleanliness, no longer deserving the character for filth, &c., bestowed upon it by Lord Byron and others. Among the various interesting excursions which may be made in the neighbourhood of Lisbon, of course the spot where will not be forgotten, and will amply repay the trouble of a visit.

"Cintra's glorious Eden intervenes,In variegated maze of mount and glen,"

From Lisbon to Cadiz the passage is made, in ordinary circumstances, in about twenty-six to thirty hours, and from Cadiz to Gibraltar in about eight hours.

Cadiz, Seville, &c.– The steamer remains at Cadiz only from three to four hours; but even this will enable the passenger to see the principal part of the town, which is exceedingly clean and handsome; and its appearance in approaching the bay of Cadiz singularly beautiful and striking. If the traveller can afford to stop for the next steamer, he may make an excursion to Seville, between which and Cadiz steamers run almost daily. Xerez de la Frontera, and Puerto de Santa Maria, with the extensive Bodejas of the wine merchants, are also well worthy of a visit.

At Gibraltar, the steamer on the Indian line will receive the traveller and convey him to Malta. In forming a calculation, it will be prudent to reckon on having not less than seven or more than nine days' stay at each place, provided it be intended to go forward by the next steamer. Again, should a party desire to remain a fortnight in Egypt, previous to joining the steamer at Suez, he can be accommodated by the Peninsular and Oriental Company, who will convey him to Alexandria, and cause him to be taken up by the vessel on the Indian side at any later period.

The additional cost of a stoppage at any of the intermediate places would depend upon the tastes, habits and means of the traveller; it need not be much, and, to a party of friends proceeding thus, the journey, at the proper season, would be instructive and delightful.

From Malta the traveller can diverge to Constantinople; or a few hours will take him to any of the chief points of interest, either in Italy or Greece. It would far exceed our limits to give details of all the various trips that might be made from so central a point as Malta; luckily, however, there is no want of guide-books to classic ground – indeed, from the nature of the subject, any such guide, to be really useful, must in itself be much larger than the present volume.

Correct information as to the means of locomotion will be furnished by Mr. Holton, the Peninsular Company's Agent at Malta, who can advise the traveller how to save much valuable time, and also how to avoid trouble and expense.

A FORTNIGHT IN EGYPT

In a previous page we have pointed out the principal objects of interest in the vicinity of Cairo and Alexandria, which are accessible in the ordinary transit through Egypt. In the event, however, of a prolonged residence in that country, either from necessity or choice, the list of videnda may manifestly be much extended.

Supposing the traveller, then, to start from Cairo, after inspecting the pyramids and other sights near that city, he can, by application to an agent on the spot, procure a boat, well supplied with provisions, &c., and proceed a considerable distance up the Nile. We have stated elsewhere that there is little besides the Pacha's palace, Pompey's pillar, and Cleopatra's needle, to be seen at and in the neighbourhood of Alexandria, and therefore call the attention of the sojourner in Egypt to the interesting antiquities he will have an opportunity of examining on the borders of the Nile. Should he purpose limiting his trip to a fortnight, in order to be in time for the packet from Suez or Alexandria, it must be borne in mind that he can only visit a few of the places mentioned below, and must make arrangements accordingly; but, in case he should desire to extend his travels, we subjoin some notes from the best authorities, of the manifold wonders to be seen on the banks of the mighty Nile, and, if the reader require even further information, we commend to his perusal the admirable work on Egypt by Sir Gardiner Wilkinson.

The great pyramid of Sacarah contains a small chamber with a few hieroglyphics, differing in this respect from all others. The arched tombs (now nearly destroyed) proving the pre-Augustan existence of the masonic arch, is of the time of Psammeticus II., about B.C. 604.

Mit Raheny, a large colossus of Rameses II., the supposed Sesostris. Mounds and indistinct remains of Memphis. On the right bank are the quarries from which a portion of the stones for the pyramids were drawn. In one part, oxen are represented drawing a block placed on a sledge. A little to the south of the modern village is an inclined plane, leading from the quarries to the river.

Thirty miles farther to the south, at Atfeh, mounds of Aphroditopolis, but without ruins.

Left bank, false pyramid (Meidoum), difficult of access, on account of the canal.

Three miles beyond Feohm, and on the opposite side (right bank), remains of crude brick walls, with hieroglyphics on the bricks.

Right bank, eight miles N. of Meneijeh, is Fehnah, the ancient Acoris. Greek Ptolemaic inscription. Tombs cut in the rock with inscriptions. Roman figures in high relief. Quarries on top of mountain, with a tank for water.

Right bank, seven miles beyond Meneijeh, is Rohn Ahman, some grottoes and ruins of an old town.

Nine miles farther (right bank) Beni Hassan; remarkably interesting grottoes of the time of Osortixen (about B.C. 1740), in whose reign it is calculated that Joseph arrived in Egypt. The plans, explanatory of the trades, amusements, domestic arrangements, &c., of the ancient Egyptians, merit particular attention. In the columns of the best grotto we recognise the Doric Order. In the entablature over the doorway, observe that the ends of rafters are sculptured, instead of mutules and tryglyphs.

About a mile and a half S. is another grotto, a temple of Pasht, Bubastis, or Diana, the Speos Artemidos (date Thotmeh III., 15th century B.C.) The Speos is known by he name of Stable Antar. Near it are deposited cat mummies.

Right bank, at Shekh Abadeh, are a few remains of Antinöe, built by Adrian. The principal streets may be traced, as well as the hippodrome, towards the east, out of the walls. Grottoes in rock, &c.

This whole district has been famous for thieves, from the time of Bruce to the present day.

Right bank. El Rasheth, grotto in the mountain, with a statue represented on a sledge.

The ruins of Hermopolis, at Ashmonnoyn, have been destroyed.

The Pacha's sugar-factory at E'Roamoon merits a visit.

Left bank. Ibayda, at the corner of the mountain, crude brick walls, and some grottoes not very remarkable.

After Shekh Said, the mountains go off to the E., leaving the river. A little beyond is Til el Amama, to the S. of which are the ruins of an ancient town, of which only the brick houses remain.

To the S. are grottoes in the mountain, with curious sculpture, and upon the mountain is an alabaster quarry. The sculptures represent a king and queen offering and praying to the sun, which shoots forth rays terminating in human hands, one of which gives the emblem of life to the king.

Six miles before Maufalouat, at El Hareib, are ruins of an old town in a ravine, in which are dog and cat mummies.

Near Maabdeh, opposite Maufalouat, are crocodile mummy-pits, difficult of access and dangerous.

E'Siout, the capital of the Said, and standing on the site of Lycopolis, merits a visit. The gardens are celebrated. Visit the grottoes in the mountain, if it be only to enjoy the beautiful view, which is, perhaps, unequalled in Egypt. The mummies of the wolf are occasionally found.

The remains of the splendid temple of Antaopolis have been sapped and carried away by the stream. A few stones only serve to point out its site at Gau (right bank).

Right bank. Shekh Eredi, where a Moslem saint, transformed into the form of a serpent, still performs very wonderful cures upon those who can pay. Some small grottoes on the left bank. To the west, Loohag, near the corner of the mountain, are remains of Athribi. Inscription in stone, in a ruined temple. Grottoes in the mountain.

To the west of this is the white monastery, Deira-bow Sehwoodee. It has very much the appearance of an Egyptian temple, having a cornice and tomb, and is supposed to have been founded by the Empress Helena. Like the other Deirs, it is inhabited by Christian peasants.

Right bank. At Ekhmin, nearly opposite Loohag, are remains of Panopolis. A large mass of stone contains a Greek inscription of the temple of Pan.

Left bank. Menshie, eight miles beyond Ekhmin, remains of a stone quarry. Ptolemais Hermii.

Left bank. Abydus, three hours' ride from Girgeh, and two hours from Bellianeh. Take donkeys at Girgeh and send the boat on to Bellianeh. When last at Abydus, I was entertained for the night at the "Deir," to the north or north-west of the village. The most remarkable monument is what Strabo has described as a "Memnonium," a very singular building, consisting of several parallel arches or arcades, leading, he says, to a tank, now concealed. The arches are not masonic, but cut out of large masses of stone and it is this circumstance which has, in a great measure, given rise to the error, as to the arch not having existed previous to the Augustan era. The building was begun by Osirien, the father of Sesostris, and finished by his son.

To the north of the Memnonium, is the small temple of Osiris, built, or at least finished, by Ramses II., and remarkable for having a sanctuary made of alabaster, for the reception of the famous tablet of the kings, which, next to the Rosetta stone, has been of the greatest assistance to the students of hieroglyphics. The Necropolis has been robbed to form the collections of Salt, Drouetti, and others.

Right bank. How (Diospolis parva) – few remains – vestiges of a temple of late date, and about a mile and a half to the S., of other mounds.

Left bank. Dendera (Tentyris) opposite Genneh. The principal temple was consecrated to Hathor, the Egyptian Venus, and not to Isis. The most interesting, as well as most ancient sculptures, are outside, at the western extremity, where we see Cleopatra and her son Casasion. The sculptures above are of the time of Augustus, as are those of the lateral walls of the Naos. The pronaos presents the portraits and names of Caius, Claudius, and Nero, as well as Tiberius, by whom it was constructed. The pylon, leading to the temple, is of the time of Domitian and Trajan. The Peripteral temple to the right, is the Typhonium, and immediately behind the great temple is a small one consecrated to Isis. The pylon towards the south is connected with the latter, and was raised in the reign of Augustus. The walls of the town, and a second wall for the sacred edifices, may be traced, and there are, I believe, some tombs in the mountain behind the town, that have not been properly explored.

Right bank. Quoph, the ancient Coptas – ruins of town and temple – small Roman-Egyptian temple, in the village of El Qalah, towards the N., forming once a part of Coptas, (Qoos, Apollinopolis parva). No more remains left, but a monolith converted into a tank, and to the north of the town is a well.

Thebes (Diospolis magna), on the eastern side, consisting of Karnak and Luxor: the Lybian Suburb on the west bank, consisting of Gormah, Medinet Haboo, the tombs of the kings, queens, &c.

Karnak. – At least fifteen centuries combined to raise the great temple, the different ages of the various portions of the edifice being distinctly traceable, from the time of Osortiren I. (B. C. 1740) to the Ptolemies. On approaching the great western propylon, observe the holes (almost like windows, and by some described as such) for fixing the flag-masts, as well as the recesses below, in which they were planted. After looking at the great hall of columns, and the obelisks, &c., notice particularly the granite sanctuary, which is a restoration of one destroyed by the Persians. It was raised by Alexander, in compliance with a vow of Philip. On the sandstone wall that encloses and protects this sanctuary, observe (north wall) a very curious and rich offering, in which a Pharaoh presents to the temple, obelisks, flag-masts, gold, silver, &c. The sculptures deserve particular attention. Those on the outside of the southern wall relate to the conquests of Shishah, who plundered the temple of Jerusalem. The name of the place (Joudamallah) is legible on a cartouche, – one of thirty led captives before the god of Thebes.