Sauces in French Cuisine

Romeo Brodmann

Sauces in classical French cuisine according to Escoffier

Includes recipes of French Cuisine up and until the middle of the 20th Century

1st English Edition

© Edition Gastronomique

Specialist publishing house of GastroSuisse

Association for Hotels and Restaurants in Switzerland

Blumenfeldstrasse 20, 8046 Zurich

www.editiongastronomique.ch

ISBN 978-3-905834-24-6

Impressum

Design: James Communication AG, Waldeggstrasse 32, 6343 Rotkreuz, www.jamescom.ch Photos, production: martin friedli fotografie, CH-4052 Basel, www.friedli-fotografie.ch Photos, portraits: Tony Baggenstos, CH-4500 Solothurn, baggenstos@gmx.ch Translation: sein gmbh, CH-8630 Rüti ZH, www.sein.ch

Quote Paul Bocuse

«As sauces are an essential reference in French cuisine, it’s an excellent idea to update their creations in the kitchen. This preparation appears obvious to any self-respecting cook.»

Paul Bocuse

Table of content

Quote Paul Bocuse

Table of content

Preface Anton Mosimann

The schematic representation of the sauces

Georges Auguste Escoffier

Bouillon de Viande / Bouillon a l’Os (Meat Broth / Bone Broth)

Fond de Veau Brun (Brown Veal Stock)

Fond de Gibier Brun (Game Stock)

Fond de Veau Blanc (White Veal Stock)

Fond de Volaille (Chicken Stock)

Fond de Poisson Blanc (White Fish Stock)

Fumet de Poisson (Concentrated White Fish Stock)

Fond de Poisson Rouge (Red Fish Stock)

Glaces (Glazes)

Essence de Tomate (Tomato Essence)

Puree de Tomate (Tomato Puree)

THICKENING AGENTS

Farine (Flour)

Roux

Beurre Manié (Kneaded Butter)

Amidon de Ble (Wheat Starch [rice, corn, potato or arrowroot starch, and others])

LIANTS POUR SAUCE, PRODUITS INDUSTRIELLEMENT (Commercial Sauce Thickeners)

CREME – Double, SAUCES, AIGRE (Cream – Double, Whipping, Sour)

Jaune d’œuf (Egg Yolk)

Liaison (Thickening with Egg Yolk and Cream)

BEURRE (Butter)

Sang (Blood)

Demi-glace (Brown Basic Sauce / Demi-glace)

Fond Brun liE (Thickened Brown Veal Gravy)

Jus de veau lié (Thickened Veal Gravy)

Demi-glace de canard (Thickened Brown Gravy, based on Duck)

Demi-glace de gibier (Thickened Brown Gravy, based on Game)

VARIATIONS OF SAUCES BRUNES DE BASE – Brown Basic Sauces

Sauce bordelaise (Red Wine and Marrow Sauce)

Sauce bretonne (Sauce for Haricots à la Bretonne)

Sauce bourguignonne (Burgundy Wine Sauce)

Sauce aux champignons (Mushroom Sauce)

Sauce duxelles (Sauce with White Wine, Shallots and Mushrooms)

Sauce estragon (Tarragon Sauce)

Sauce financière (Financière Sauce with Truffle Esscence)

Sauce génoise (Sauce for Salmon and Trout)

Sauce Godard (Goes well with Godard Garnish)

Sauce gratin (Sauce for Fish au Gratin)

Sauce au poivre vert (Green Pepper Sauce)

Sauce hachée (Chopped Sauce)

Sauce hussard (Ham Sauce)

Sauce italienne (Italian Sauce – Herb and Ham)

Sauce chasseur (Hunter’s Sauce – Escoffier’s method)

Sauce aux fines herbes (Herb Sauce)

Sauce lyonnaise (Onion Sauce)

Sauce madère (Madeira Sauce)

Sauce matelote (Fish Sauce based on Red Fish Stock)

Sauce aux morilles (Morel Sauce)

Sauce poivrade (Pepper Sauce)

Sauce poivrade pour gibier (Pepper Sauce for Game)

Sauce piquante (Sauce for grilled or boiled Pork or Beef [picy, not hot])

Sauce bigarade (Bitter or Seville Orange Sauce for Duck)

Sauce chevreuil (Sauce for Game [with Game Stock] or Butcher’s Meat [with Bacon and Ham])

Sauce au porto (Port Wine Sauce)

Sauce Robert (White Wine, Onion and Gherkin Sauce)

Sauce romaine (Roman Sauce – for Venison or marinated Butcher’s Meat)

Sauce au vin rouge (Red Wine Sauce)

Sauce rouennaise (Red Wine Sauce with raw Duck Liver)

Sauce à la crème (Cream Sauce)

Sauce Salmi (Wild Fowl Sauce)

Sauce tortue (Turtle Sauce)

Sauce diable (Devilled Sauce for grilled Chicken and Pigeon)

Jus lié tomaté (Thickened Gravy – Tomato flavoured)

Sauce périgueux (Sauce perigueux)

SAUCE ZINGARA, Version 1 (Sauce for boiled Meat or Calf’s Head)

SAUCE ZINGARA, Version 2 (Sauce for fried White Meat and Poultry – with Truffle julienne)

Sauce portugaise (Sauce with Onions, Tomatoes, Parsley)

Sauce à la provençale (Sauce with Tomatoes, Garlic and Parsley)

Sauce tomate (Tomato Sauce)

Velouté de veau / de volaille / de poisson (Veal Veloute / Chicken Veloute / Fish Veloute)

LES PETITES SAUCES BLANCHES – Minor (compound) Basic White Sauces and their Vvariations

SAUCE ALLEMANDE AND ITS VARIATIONS

Sauce allemande (Also known as Sauce Parisienne)

Sauce bonnefoy (Marrow Sauce with White Wine)

Sauce curry (Curry Sauce)

Sauce curry à l’indienne (Indian Curry Sauce)

Sauce villageoise ou sauce blanquette (May be served with White Meat)

Sauce poulette (Ideal with boiled Lamb, in particular with Lamb’s Trotters)

Sauce smitane (Sour Cream Sauce – served with pan-fried Game)

Sauce hongroise (Hungarian Sauce)

Sauce Villeroy (Villeroy Sauce with Ham and Truffles)

SAUCE SUPREME AND ITS VARIATIONS

Sauce suprême (Poultry Cream Sauce)

Sauce Albuféra (Poultry Cream Sauce with melted Meat Glaze and Pimento Butter)

Sauce Chivry (For Poached or Steamed Poultry)

Sauce ivoire (For Boiled, Poached and Steamed Poultry)

Sauce ravigote (For Poached or Steamed Poultry)

Sauce estragon (Tarragon Sauce)

SAUCE AU VIN BLANC AND ITS VARIATIONS

Sauce au vin blanc (Fish Veloute and Cream [White Wine Sauce])

Sauce Bercy (May be served with Fish)

Poaching Stock as Basis

Fillet of Sole with Sauce Aurore

Sauce bretonne (Sauce with White Vegetables, White Wine and Cream)

Sauce aux crevettes (Shrimp Sauce)

Sauce homard (Lobster Sauce)

Sauce livonienne (Sauce livonienne)

Sauce normande (Fish Veloute, Cream, Cooking Liquor from Button Mushrooms, Sole and Oyster)

Sauce Normande

Sauce aux huîtres (Oyster Sauce)

Sauce diplomate (Sauce Normande with small dices of Lobster and Truffle)

Sauce Joinville (Sauce Normande with Truffle, Crayfish and Crayfish Butter)

Sauce régence (Velouté de Poisson, White Wine, Mushrooms, Truffle Peelings and Truffle Essence)

Sauce anchois (Sauce Normande with Anchovy Butter and Anchovy Fillets)

Sauce Véron (Sauce Véron)

Sauce Rubens (Madeira Wine and Red Compound Butter)

Sauce Saint-Malo (Sauce Saint-Malo)

Sauce marinière (Mussel Sauce – to gratinate Mussels and Fish)

Sauce souchet (Julienne of Carrot, Celeriac and Root Parsley, Fish Stock, White Wine)

Sauce vénitienne (Tarragon Vinegar, Shallots, Chervil Leaves, White Wine Sauce)

Sauce matelote blanche (Fish Court Bouillon, Mushroom Heads, White Wine Sauce, Silverskin Onions)

Sauce américaine (Lobster, Garlic, Brandy, White Wine, Fish Stock, Tomato, Parsley)

Sauce Américaine

Sauce Newburg au homard cru (With raw Lobster – ideal with poached Flatfish)

BECHAMEL SAUCE AND ITS VARIATIONS

Sauce béchamel (Béchamel Sauce)

Sauce Béchamel

Sauce cardinal (Sauce Béchamel with Fisch Stock, Truffle Essence and Lobster Butter)

Sauce aurore (Béchamel Sauce with Purée de Tomate)

Sauce Mornay (Béchamel Sauce with Sbrinz or Parmesan Cheese)

Sauce Nantua (Béchamel Sauce with Cream, Crayfish Butter and Crayfish tails)

Sauce écossaise (Scotch Sauce – with a Brunoise of Celeriac, Carrot, Onion and Green Beans)

Sauce Soubise (Sauce Soubise)

Sauce bavaroise (Bavarian Sauce with Crayfish Butter, Crayfish and Whipped Cream)

Sauce béarnaise (Béarnaise Sauce – Served with Fried or Grilled Butcher’s Meat)

Sauce Béarnaise

Sauce arlésienne (Arlésienne Sauce – Sauce Béarnaise [without Tarragon and Chervil] with Purée de Tomate and Anchovy Fillet)

Sauce Choron – Sauce Bearnaise Tomatée (Choron Sauce)

Sauce Foyot (Sauce Foyot – Glace de Viande in Sauce Béarnaise – served with Fried or Grilled Butcher’s Meat)

Sauce hollandaise (Hollandaise Sauce)

Sauce maltaise (Sauce Hollandaise with Blood Orange)

Sauce tyrolienne (Béarnaise Sauce prepared like a Mayonnaise)

SAUCES AU BEURRE LIEES – THICKENED BUTTER SAUCES

Sauce Batarde or Sauce au beurre, dite bâtarde (Butter Sauce)

Sauce groseilles (Gooseberry Sauce)

Sauce Laguepierre (Butter Sauce with Glace de Poisson [or Fish Essence] – for Poached or Steamed Fish)

Mustard Sauce (Sauce Moutarde)

SAUCES MOUSSEUSES AU BEURRE

Sauce mousseuse (Sauce with Butter, Lemon Juice and Whipped Cream)

Sauce Solférino (Solférino Sauce – Tomatoes, Lemon, Beurre d’Echalotes and Beurre Chivry – for Grilled Meat)

Sauce Albert (Sauce Albert)

Sauce aux pommes (Apple Sauce)

Sauce aux Aromates (Aromatic Sauce)

Sauce au Pain (Bread Sauce)

Celery Sauce (Sauce au Céleri)

Cranberry Sauce (Sauce aux Airelles)

Cream Sauce (Sauce Crème à l’Anglaise)

Devilled Sauce (Sauce Diable)

Egg and Butter Sauce (Sauce aux Œufs au Beurre Fondu)

Egg Sauce (Sauce aux Œufs à l’Anglaise)

Fried Bread Sauce (Sauce au Pain Frit)

Gooseberry Sauce (Sauce aux Groseilles)

Lobster Sauce (Sauce Homard à l’Anglaise)

Melted Butter Sauce (Sauce au Beurre à l’Anglaise)

Onion Sauce (Sauce aux Oignons)

Oyster Sauce (Sauce aux Huîtres)

Parsley Sauce for Fish (Sauce Persil pour Poissons)

Port Wine Sauce (Sauce au Porto)

Reform Sauce (Sauce Réforme)

Roebuck Sauce (Sauce Chevreuil)

Sage and Onion Sauce (Sauce Sauge et Oignons)

Scotch Egg Sauce (Sauce des Œufs Ecossaise)

VICTORIA SAUCE (Sauce Victoria)

Waterfish Sauce (Sauce Waterfish)

Yorkshire Sauce (Sauce Yorkshire)

Sauce bohémienne (Cold Béchamel Sauce prepared like a Mayonnaise)

Sauce ravigote or vinaigrette (Sauce for Poached or Steamed Poultry)

Sauce Ravigote / Vinaigrette

Sauce génoise (Cold Béchamel Sauce with Herbs and Pistachios, prepared like a Mayonnaise)

Sauce Gribiche (Sauce with Hard-boiled Egg Yolks, Capers, Gherkins, Parsley, Tarragon, Chervil)

Sauce verte (Green Sauce – Mayonnaise with Spinach, Watercress, Parsley, Tarragon and Chervil)

Sauce italienne (Mayonnaise with Purée of Calf’s Brain and Parsley)

Sauce Italienne

Mayonnaise – Classic Variation (Sauce Mayonnaise)

Mayonnaise – Modern Variation (Sauce Mayonnaise)

Sauce Mayonnaise

Sauce aïoli / beurre de Provence (Aïoli / Garlic Sauce with Garlic, Egg Yolk, Lemon Juice)

Sauce Rouille (Rouille Sauce – Mayonnaise with Chili Peppers, Harissa, Potatoes, and Saffron)

Sauce Rouille

Sauce suédoise (Sauce Mayonnaise with Apple-White Wine Purée and Horseradish)

Sauce Tartare – Classic Variation (Sauce Mayonnaise with Chives and Green Onions)

Sauce Tartare – Modern Variation

Sauce au thon (Tuna Sauce)

Sauce Vincent (Mayonnaise Sauce with Herbs)

COLD SAUCES BASED ON CREAM

Sauce raifort (Horseradish Sauce)

Sauce raifort aux noix (Horseradish Sauce with Nuts)

Sauce moutarde à la crème (Mustard and Cream Sauce)

COLD ENGLISH SAUCES

Cambridge Sauce (Sauce served with any kind of Cold Meat)

Cumberland Sauce (Sauce based on Red Currant Jelly, Port Wine, Zest of Orange and Lemon)

Cumberland Sauce

Horseradish Sauce (Sauce Raifort)

Gloucester Sauce (Sauce Gloucester)

Mint Sauce (Sauce Menthe)

Gelée de viande (Ordinary Aspic Jelly)

Gelée de volaille (Chicken Aspic Jelly)

Gelée de Volaille – Chicken Aspic Jelly

Gelée de gibier (Game Aspic Jelly)

Geleé de poisson (Fish Aspic Jelly)

SAUCES CHAUD-FROID BRUNES (BROWN)

Sauce chaud-froid brune (Brown Chaud-froid Sauce)

Sauce chaud-froid tomatée (Tomato-flavoured Chaud-froid Sauce)

SAUCES CHAUD-FROID ­BLANCHES (WHITE)

Sauce chaud-froid aurore (Pink Chaud-froid Sauce)

Sauce chaud-froid vert-pré (Green Chaud-froid Sauce [with Herbs])

Sauce chaud-froid Blanche (White Chaud-froid Sauce)

MAYONNAISES COLLEES

Mayonnaise collée (Jellied Mayonnaise)

Chaud-Froid

Sauce mayonnaise fouettée à la russe (Whipped Mayonnaise, Russian Style)

Mayonnaise, Russian Style

Beurre Bercy (Bercy Butter – White Wine, Shallot Butter, and Beef Marrow)

Beurre noir (Black Butter)

Beurre Chivry / Beurre ravigote (Chivry Butter / Herb Butter)

Beurre Chivry – Herb Butter

Beurre de curry (Curry Butter)

Beurre d’estragon (Tarragon Butter)

Beurre de crevette (Shrimp Butter)

Various Beurres Printaniers (Vegetable Butters)

Beurre colorant vert (Green Colouring Butter)

Beurre d’aveline (Hazelnut Butter)

Beurre à la maître d’hôtel (Herb Butter [Parsley])

Beurre de Homard, Variation 1 (Lobster Butter)

Beurre de Homard, Variation 2 (Lobster Butter)

Beurre de caviar (Caviare Butter)

Beurre d’ail (Garlic Butter)

Beurre d’écrevisse (Crayfish Butter)

Beurre d’amande (Almond Butter)

Beurre de raifort (Horseradish Butter)

Beurre de Montpellier (Butter with Herbs, Spinach, Shallots, Pickled Gherkins, Anchovy Fillets)

Beurre noisette (Hazelnut Butter)

Beurre de paprika (Paprika Butter)

Beurre de pimientos (Pimento Butter)

Beurre de pistache (Pistachio Butter)

Beurre de saumon fumé (Smoked Salmon Butter)

Beurre colorant rouge (Red Colouring Butter)

Beurre marchand de vins (Red Wine Butter)

Beurre d’anchois (Anchovy Butter)

Beurre d’échalote (Shallot Butter)

Beurre d’escargots (Butter for Snails)

Beurre de moutarde (Mustard Butter)

Beurre de tomate (Tomato Butter)

FLAVOURED OILS

Herb oils, seasoning oils and others

Huile de crustacés (Oil from Shellfish)

Huile de Crustacés - Oil from Shellfish

Explanations

Bibliography

About the author

Acknowledgment

Preface Anton Mosimann

Classical French cuisine is the firm foundation for most chefs’ training the world over. Auguste Escoffier’s summary in his “Guide Culinaire”, on stocks and sauces, is as true today as it was then: “You can never take too much care or pay too much attention to their preparation.”

Historically, in Britain, more importance was attached to the gravy, the meat juices that were served to accompany roast meat, poultry and game. This is still the case, but sauces to accompany fish dishes are very much in the French tradition. That said, both the Mediterranean diet and Asian influences have encouraged a diversity of styles – a wedge of lemon, a drizzle of olive oil or a stir fry involving herbs and spices – simple, fresh cooking that ensure the natural flavours are retained. In such instances, sauces are now less prominent than they once were.

Art presupposes solid craftsmanship. Salvador Dali learnt to paint in the true classical manner before he embraced surrealism and abstract art. The pianist Lang Lang interprets the most difficult pieces as lightly as a feather because he learnt classical piano playing from a sound base. You can only become a virtuoso by continually practicing the fundamentals.

Craftsmanship means working on the foundation repeatedly and understanding the reasons why the basics work so well; you cannot adapt them until they are second nature. According to Escoffier it is essential to truly understand the sauces and their structural composition as one of the most important bases of French cuisine.

Always start at the beginning to really learn the basics of the chef’s profession. You only become a star chef or chef to the royal household by constant practice, learning, extending your knowledge, and developing further. You can only become a virtuoso when you have really understood the basics and appreciate the science of cooking – why heat will produce one reaction and cold another. To be able to feel a passion for cooking, with heart and soul, is the intrinsic condition of being a great chef.

“I really welcome this book and know that, within a short space of time, the copy I will be putting in the kitchen at Mosimann’s will certainly become not only well-thumbed, but also sauce-splattered; surely the essence of a great and important book!”

Anton Mosimann, OBE

The schematic representation of the sauces

Georges Auguste Escoffier

Born on 28 October 1846 in Villeneuve-Loubet, France

Died on 12 February 1935 in Monte Carlo, Monaco

As far as is possible to tell from the records, Escoffier, the king of chefs, was a calm and equanimous chef de cuisine who spent a good 60 years of his life at the stove.