Chronological Retrospect of the History of Yarmouth and Neighbourhood

PREFACE

Few words only are necessary to introduce this Third Edition to our readers, beyond expressing a hope that the contents will meet with general approbation, and that much pleasure will be derived from its perusal, now and for many years to come. We would ask, as a SPECIAL FAVOUR, in order to ensure a wider circulation, that our friends will recapitulate the comments of the Press, by recommending this History of Yarmouth as “worthy of a place in every library.” It is seven years since the Second Edition, without supplement, was published.

No greater honour could have been conferred upon the Author than when the Heir Apparent to the Throne of England (His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, K.G.), on his visit to Yarmouth in 1882, expressed his pleasure, through Colonel Teesdale, in the acceptance as a present, of a copy of this History; and the placing of this work, with supplement (A.D. 46 to 1879) in the principal stone of the New Town Hall in 1880 by the then Mayor (C. C. Aldred, Esq.) was also gratifying.

Edward Birkbeck, Esq., M.P., writing to us from the House of Commons, on March 19th, 1884, says: – “I do not think my name is worthy of having a book dedicated to me, but I shall nevertheless be proud to have it placed where you suggest.” The people of Yarmouth will endorse our sentiments when we say, for his zeal and untiring energy in promoting many special objects in the “good old town,” that he is worthy of greater eulogiums than we can bestow, and therefore tender our best thanks to that gentleman for his courtesy in allowing this volume to be dedicated to him – a privilege that was also given us in a first issue, by his predecessor in the Imperial Parliament, the lamented Colonel Duff. Neither must we forget to express our obligation to a select list of subscribers to the work.

Great Yarmouth, April, 1884.

LIST OF MAYORS

The following dates refer to the time of election, November 9th, after the year 1836.

Note – Those with an *, see Historical Pages.

From 1688 to 1700, two Bailiffs were chosen instead of a Mayor.

Crisp’s History Of Great Yarmouth

The Romans entered this part of Britain when the valleys of the Yare, Waveney, and Bure, as well as the sand-bank upon which Yarmouth stands, were covered by the ocean.

Burgh Castle, a Roman encampment, supposed to have been founded.

Cerdic, a Saxon Prince, and Qenrick his son, with five ships, entered the port of Yarmouth and named in Cerdic Shore. This Cerdic Shore seems to have been a great sand-bank formed along the shore between two branches or channels of the Yare called Havens, by which two channels the river entered the sea, one running near Caister and the other near Gorleston.

Between this and the year 640, a Saxon Monastery was founded at Burgh, by Fursey, an Irish monk.

Lodbrog, the Dane, driven by a sudden tempest from Denmark across the sea, and, entering the Yare, landed at Reedham, where the Court of Edmund, King of East Anglia, was then kept. Lodbrog is said to have been received into Court favour, but was soon afterwards murdered in a wood by the King’s huntsman (Bern) through jealousy. This led to the imprisonment and execution of Edmund, and put an end to the Saxon dynasty in East Anglia, after Hinguar and Hubba, two Danish chieftains, at the head of 20,000 men, had ravished all East Anglia.

First houses and habitations erected in Yarmouth on Fuller’s Hill, that being then the only dry land in Yarmouth.

Yarmouth belonged to the King in the reign of Edward the Confessor, and had 70 burgesses, besides a number of soccagers.

Bishop Herbert born; and in 1091 was consecrated Bishop of Thetford.

Cocklewater, or Grubb’s Haven, stopped up with sand.

St. Bennet’s Church pulled down. It was built in the time of Edward the Confessor.

Yarmouth governed by a Provost, the first constituted magistrate, whose public office was in the Congé, North Quay. Foreigners were only allowed to come to Yarmouth at the annual free-fair.

Bishop Herbert de Lozinga, the first Bishop of Norwich [translated from the See of Thetford in the 7th year of William II. (Rufus), whose Chamberlain he was], founded St. Nicholas’ Church, and re-built a Chapel on the North Denes. He was made Lord High Chancellor to Henry I. of England in 1104, and died August 11th, 1119.

St. Nicholas’ Church consecrated. Enlarged 1123, 1250, and 1338. The last attempt after 10 years’ labour in trying to build a west aisle, failing, the ruins were used in the building of a Chapel-of-Ease.

Forty thousand lives lost at sea during the war between King John and the Barons; a great multitude washed ashore on Yarmouth beach.

Monastery of Black Friars founded by St. Dominica.

Yarmouth had three galleys or vessels of war. Two were manned with seven score mariners.

First charter granted by King John, and Yarmouth incorporated as a borough. The document is still preserved (1834).

All vessels in the port with Scottish property on board were arrested.

Henry III. granted certain franchises. In 1261 he granted licenses for fortifying the town; and on Sept. 28th, 1262, granted a Charter for enclosing the town with a wall and moat, so as to resist the power of an invading enemy. (See 1396.)

The Tolhouse Hall, Middlegate Street, erected.

Yarmouth first called Magna (Great) in the reign of Edward I., to distinguish it from Little Yarmouth, or Southtown.

The town wall and fosse commenced at the north end of town.

St. Mary’s Hospital founded. It was a free Grammar School in 1551, and fitted up as a school for poor children in 1634.

The Carmelites, or Whitefriars, founded at Yarmouth, and took the north and some other parts of the town under their charge. (See 1509.)

King Henry’s Tower erected at the north-east corner of St. Nicholas’ churchyard.

St. Nicholas’ Church and churchyard consecrated by Bishop Middleton, of Norwich.

The sea flowed into St. Nicholas’ Church 4 feet deep, and the town was inundated.

A beautiful ship built at Yarmouth for King Edward II., and sent to Norway for the King’s daughter, upon her proposed marriage with the then Prince. She was heiress of Norway and Scotland.

No one allowed to draw wine after the Curfew bell had rung.

Yarmouth first summoned to send four Burgesses annually to Parliament.

Sir J. De Botetourt, a Norfolk Knight, had command of a Yarmouth fleet of fifty-three vessels. Fresh herrings sold for 37s. per last.

Simon Blaking, of Martham, fled into St. Nicholas’ Church, and confessed to having broken open a house at Hemsby and the prison at Southtown, and to having killed W. F. N. Blaking. The law in those days was, if a murderer could reach a church or churchyard before being apprehended, and confessed his crime to a coroner, justice, &c., he was set at liberty without taking a trial.

William Fastolf and H. Rose, Esqs., returned to Parliament, held at Lincoln.

Leather was not only used for various military purposes, but formed a considerable part of the common dress of the people before the introduction, and during the infancy, of the woollen manufacture.

Yarmouth claimed a free Borough by the Burgesses.

William Fastolf and H. Rose, Esqs., again returned to Parliament, held at Nottingham.

Price of pipe (120 gals.) of “red wine,” 20s.

During the reigns of Edward II. and III., Richard II., Henry IV., V., and VI., and Edward IV., upwards of 160 Burgesses were returned to Parliament, 72 of which were held at Westminster, 6 at York, 1 at London, Ripon, and New Sarum, and 2 at Gloucester.

Two Parliaments held, but not represented by the same Burgesses.

A Castle stood on the site of the King Street Independent Chapel, but was demolished in 1621.

Great disputes between the Barons of the Cinque Ports and the Bailiffs of this Borough, concerning the free fair which the former attempted to remove.

Burgesses exempted from serving on Juries, Inquests, or at Assizes, within the Borough.

Blackfriars’ Tower completed.

Forty ships of war ordered to Yarmouth roads.

The Yarmouth navy, comprising 20 men-of-war, had orders to proceed to the port of Dort, to convoy the King’s four plenipotentiaries to the Court of Hainault from those parts to England. On their return they took two Flemish ships and their cargoes. The Bishop of Glasgow, who was on board one, died of his wounds at Sandwich.

Thomas De Drayton, a Yarmouth man, who had held the office of bailiff fifteen times, was appointed Admiral of the North Fleet.

Yarmouth magistrates, &c., fitted out a fleet of men-of-war, well equipped, at their own cost and charge, to go against the enemy at sea for the space of a month.

John Perebrown, a burgess of Yarmouth, led the King’s North Sea Fleet in the great battle of Sluys, and did great service; 230 ships and 30,000 Frenchmen were lost.

Oct. Edward III. embarked on board the Yarmouth squadron in his unsuccessful expedition to Brittany.

The principal inhabitants fined 1000 marks for committing trespasses, &c., on the sea coast.

The first Haven cut.

Yarmouth assisted Edward III. at the siege of Calais with 43 vessels of war and 1,075 mariners, which was 18 ships more than London sent, and more than any other port, except Fowey.

Plague carried off 7,052 persons out of the then population of 10,000.

Yarmouth gave to the St. George’s College of Windsor by charter, a last of red herrings, to be delivered annually for ever on St. Andrew’s day, concerning which many disputes have since arisen.

Passenger boat from Yarmouth to Norwich sunk near Cantley, and 38 persons drowned.

Fastolf, father of the renowned Sir John Fastolf, one of the bailiffs.

Six Yarmouth vessels captured and burnt in the Bay of Brittany.

John Lawers hung for not paying the Custom House dues.

Yarmouth first appointed a staple port.

August 22nd. Kirkley Road united to the town and port of Yarmouth by charter of Edward III., but repealed four years afterwards.

Price of coal, including freight, 5s. 6d. per chaldron.

The memorable rebellion of Wat Taylor. The town attacked by 20,000 rebel archers or bowmen, who plundered houses and did much damage, but who were defeated after much bloodshed.

June 20th. Violent shock of an earthquake, and much damage done.

June. King Richard II. visited Great Yarmouth.

Market Place paved, and a Cross and Pillory built.

William Bardolf, Baron Bardolf, died. He had large estates near Yarmouth.

Sir Henry Percy and Fauset Percy sent to Yarmouth with 300 men-at-arms and 600 archers, to guard the coast, an invasion from France being apprehended.

A Horse Ferry at Gorleston existed.

The second Haven made, and a third in 1408.

Several small Yarmouth and other ships taken by Danish pirates in a sharp conflict off the coast. Lost £20,000 in specie.

After a lapse of 111 years the fortifications of the town were completed – 20 towers, 10 gates, and the wall, 2,280 yards in extent. (See 1544.)

Coals first imported here from Newcastle. Wood was used as fuel before this.

Henry IV. granted, by the consent of Parliament, that the shipping, weighing, and packing of wool, hides, and skins, should be done at Yarmouth, it being a frontier town.

Third Haven cut.

The annual election of four Bailiffs, reduced to two, and so continued until a Mayor was appointed in their stead.

Yarmouth Bridge, with 8 arches, built, before which a horse, cart, cattle, and foot ferry-boat existed. This was replaced by 4 successive drawbridges, i.e., 1553, 1570, 1785, and 1836. (See 1849.)

About 60 pilgrims sailed from Yarmouth in the ship “Falcon,” for the shrine at Santiago, in Spain; and in 1434, 20 more left.

The freedom of the Borough purchased for two marks.

Ralph Wadiswyke was made Comptroller of the Customs for taking Lord Doisemond, a French lieutenant, prisoner.

Caister Castle supposed to have been founded by Sir John Fastolf, K.G. He was born in 1377, and died in 1459 in his Hall at Caister, aged 82 years, and was buried in the Abbey Church of St. Bennet, at Holme, leaving his estate to John Paston, Esq.

July 24th. Lord Lieutenants of Counties first appointed.

Sacred Dramas and Mysteries performed in St. Nicholas’ Church.

John Pedle, labourer, of Yarmouth, executed for coining and uttering 18 groats, made of copper and lead, as good and lawful money of England.

Our Lady’s organ in St. Nicholas’ Church built; the old and new organs in 1485; great old organs in 1486; and Jesus’ organ in 1550.

John Paston died in the Fleet Prison, after the seizure of his estates.

Fourteen persons hanged at one time upon a gallows erected on the beach.

The Duke of Norfolk, at the head of 3,000 men, laid siege to Caister Castle, which was surrendered to his Grace. He died in 1475, and Caister Castle again reverted to the Paston family.

Yarmouth threatened by the French fleet. 200 armed men sent from Norwich.

A whale came ashore south of Grubb’s Haven, which was cut to pieces and carried away in carts.

The Bailiffs feasted Sir John Paston, son of the late John Paston, on porpoise, then a royal fish.

May 16th. By charter of Henry VII., Burgesses were empowered to constitute Justices of the Peace.

The fourth Haven made; and the fifth Haven cut in the reign of Henry VIII., 1529.

House of Carmelites, or White Friars, destroyed by fire; founded in Edward I.’s time, 1278.

Southtown united with Gorleston.

Queen of France and her husband, Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, entertained here three days.

Church of the Dominicans burnt down.

Great dearth of corn. The extravagant sale price then was 26s. 8d. per quarter. Several men were hanged for taking part in a riot arising from the same.

Gorleston began to be built upon. (See 1511.)

The first Yarmouth crane erected by Richard Bishop.

Duke of Suffolk suppressed a riot arising from the dearness of corn.

Nov. 1st. Tumult in St. Nicholas’ Church; twenty-four persons, with William Swarton, the chaplain, at their head, disturbed the congregation while the Rev. D. R. Cotton was preaching.

The high altar of St. Nicholas’ Church, remarkable for its richness and beauty, with the saints’ figures and pictures, broken and destroyed.

Oct. 28th. Four merchant heretics entered St. Nicholas’ Church, and created a great disturbance during the service.

Nov. 2nd. A merchant and shoemaker were fined 2s. each for bargaining and selling a last of white herring in the Church.

Sir Humphrey Wingfield returned to Parliament, held at Westminster.

Ordered that Aldermen should wear scarlet gowns, with fur tippets and straight hose, at assemblies and festivals.

Height of town wall, 23 feet. On war being declared the following year with France, a large rampire was thrown up on the eastern side, and afterwards extended along the north and south walls. (See 1396.)

Sir H. Wingfield again returned to Parliament.

At Corporate meetings no member allowed to depart without leave of the Bailiffs; otherwise was fined for disorderly conduct. Members of the Corporation compelled to wear scarlet gowns and straight hose, under penalty of fines.

Two French ships and 120 prisoners taken by the town.

A house for country butchers built.

The sixth Haven made. It was agreed that the money, plate, ornaments, robes, vestments, tunicles, albs, ameffes, belonging to St. Nicholas’ Church, should be disposed of, together with the bells in the steeple and other property in the Church, and the proceeds (£1,816 9s. 7d.) devoted to its construction. The Haven was then commenced, 100 men being employed daily upon it.

A rebellion in the town. Kett’s adherents advanced and destroyed all the materials for the Haven, and laid it in ruins; and the work of the Harbour was stopped till the following year. The next attempt also proved as unsuccessful. Another report says – The Norfolk rebellion, under Kett, the tanner, commenced; but their designs were frustrated by Yarmouth men, who, setting fire to a stack of hay on the west side of the Haven, were able to attack the enemy unseen, and defeated them, many insurgents being killed, 80 taken prisoners, and six pieces of ordnance secured. They were afterwards defeated by the Earl of Warwick at head-quarters in Norwich, and lost some 4,500 men; their leaders, William and Robert Kett, being suspended alive in chains on a gibbet.

Another great Plague. (See 1349.)

The Castle used as a Borough Gaol. During subsequent periods of alarm, it was again repaired. The upper part of it was taken down in 1620, and the following year the whole fabric was ordered to be dismantled and demolished.

Many of the brasses enclosing the inscriptions on the walls of St. Nicholas’ Church sent to London to be cast into weights and measures for the town’s use.

John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, K.G., High Steward of the Borough.

A Grammar and Free School in existence in Yarmouth, the “Parson of Haddiscoe” being appointed for a quarter of a year on trial. He was succeeded the same year by an “expert man;” and it was agreed that each of the four-and-twenties (Aldermen) should pay towards his living 18d., and each of the eight-and-forties (Common Councilmen) 8d. a-year over the stipends, upon the well-doing of the schoolmaster. From 1551 till 1757, twenty-eight gentlemen were appointed to the Mastership. In 1757 the school appears to have been closed, for we find the master quitting possession and resigning his office; and on Feb. 5th, 1773, the chamberlains were directed to do necessary repairs, and to let the school to Mr. Richard Eaton, the younger, for £4 a-year. The school was re-established in 1863.

Sir W. Wodehouse, Knt., and N. Frymage, Esq., returned to Parliament. Every inhabitant found smoking tobacco or overcome with drink in any tippling-house was apprehended.

Oct. 1st. Robert Eyre and Simon More were chosen Burgesses of the Parliament.

Drawbridge erected to connect Southtown with Great Yarmouth, in place of the one built in 1427, but which was carried away in 1570 by the tide.

Beer sold at 3s. 4d. per thirty-two gallons.

This year and two following, six Aldermen were returned to Parliament.

Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, High Steward of the Borough.

Fifty vessels wrecked off Yarmouth within 24 hours.

A fire beacon placed on the top of the Castle, as the Haven was very dangerous.

No brewer allowed to brew in the town unless by the appointment of the Bailiffs.

Another attempt to form a Haven, a ship being sunk at the mouth to stem the tide. But this project was abandoned the following year, and it was stopped up with furze bundles in 1557.

The Hermitage on the west side of the Haven given to the town.

Dec. 1st. The town inundated. Men rowed up and down the streets in boats, and several ships were drawn over the Denes with windlasses.

The ground on the south side of Town Hall was, in the time of Queen Elizabeth, called “The South Foreland,” or “Furlong’s End.” In 1568 the houses there standing were given by William Garton to the churchwardens for the use of the Church. In 1622 they were repaired, and in 1674 rebuilt. John Fastolf, the father of Sir John Fastolf, of Caister Castle, had a house in the “Foreland,” but whereabouts cannot now be discovered. These houses were re-fronted by the present owner in 1866.

Sir T. Wodehouse, Knt., and William Barker, Esq., returned to Parliament.

The Market Cross repaired.

May 26th. Queen Elizabeth granted a Charter for the better security, defence, and protection of the town.

Jan. 8th. The present (seventh) Haven commenced. Joyce Johnson, the eminent Dutch engineer, who superintended the construction, was paid 4s. a day. This Haven was cut near the spot of the one made in 1529. Nearly 1,000 persons, including women and children, were employed about the works, which were completed on March 4th to the satisfaction of the inhabitants. In 1566 the water broke through, and made its old channel towards Newton Cross.

First Jetty erected, having a crane at the end to facilitate the landing of goods from boats. Re-built in 1767.

Three town wells opened.

Thomas Timperley and William Grice, Esqs., were returned to Parliament; the latter was also returned in 1570 with William Barker, Esq.; in 1571 with John Bacon, Esq.; and in 1584 and 1585 with Thomas Damett, Esq.

Three small silver maces, belonging to the Corporation, made.

Herrings very scarce, and sold for £9 a last.

Piers built on both sides of the Haven’s mouth.

The London Privy Council lent the town of Yarmouth £1,000 without interest, for repairing the Haven, which was refunded by instalments of £100 a-year.

Three ships of war compelled to leave by the town guns.

Haven expenses for the year, £1,230 12s. 4d.

The Paston family sold Caister Castle to meet their embarrassments.

Herrings sold for £8 a last; a tun (4 hogshds.) of wine was also of the same value.

Part of the town wall fell through being overcharged.

Mr. Vincent Goodwin first preacher appointed at St. Nicholas’ Church.

Drawbridge carried away by high tide, and another constructed in 1785, at a cost of £403 15s. 9d., notwithstanding £225 had been expended the year previous in repairs.

Thatched roofs to houses forbidden, and wood was substituted.

Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, K.G., High Steward of the Borough.

Brewers ordered to brew with coals instead of wood.

Every ale-house licensed by the Bailiffs.

Regulations made to prevent goods lying on the Quay longer than necessary.

A Bill introduced to Parliament to enroll Yarmouth as a Cinque Port; but this was not properly carried out. In 1702 the Government of Yarmouth was settled under Anne in its proper and present form.

Feb. 10th. Mr. Harbrowne elected to Parliament in place of John Bacon, Esq., but only served one day, the latter being re-elected.

Edward Owner born. He represented the town in Parliament four times, and died August 13th, 1650.

A part of the Hospital, Market Place, converted into a House of Correction.

Burgh Water Frolic first spoken of, being a grand event, and patronized by the Mayor and Corporation.

Inhabitants prohibited from washing their clothes near the public wells.

Lord Burleigh and the Earl of Leicester paid Yarmouth a visit, and were entertained at the Priory. Queen Elizabeth was expected, and a silver cup, in the form of a ship, costing £16, made for presentation to her Majesty, but she reached no further than Norwich.

Scratby Sand became entirely dry land, and raised its head so much above high-water mark, that grass, &c., grew on it, and sea birds built their nests. It was called “Yarmouth Island,” and was a favourite resort in the summer season for Yarmouth people.

May to Sept. Great plague; 2,000 persons died, and the Grammar School shut up for six months. (See 1349 and 1550.)

August 2nd. Dinner provided for 43 gentlemen on a sandbank out at sea, called Scratby Sand. In 1582 it was swept away by a strong easterly wind and tide, much to the disappointment of Sir Edward Clare, Knt., who had made a claim to it. Valuable wreckage was often found there.