Fragments of Earth Lore: Sketches & Addresses Geological and Geographical

II

In the preceding article I have described the peculiar configuration of the Long Island – rounded and flowing for the most part – and have pointed out how that softened outline is not such as the rocks would naturally assume under the influence of the ordinary agents of erosion with which we are familiar in this country. The present contour has superseded an older set of features, which, although highly modified or disguised, and often well-nigh obliterated, are yet capable of being traced, and are, no doubt, the conformation assumed by the rocks under the long-continued action of rain and frost and running water. We have now to inquire what it was that removed or softened down the primal configuration I refer to, and gave to the islands their present monotonous, undulating contour.

Any one fresh from the glacier-valleys of Switzerland or Norway could have little doubt as to the cause of the transformation. The smoothed and rounded masses of the Outer Hebrides are so exactly paralleled by the ice-worn, dome-shaped rocks over which a glacier has flowed, that our visitor would have small hesitation in ascribing to them a similar origin; and the presence of the countless perched blocks and boulders which are scattered broadcast over the islands would tend to confirm him in his belief. A closer inspection of the phenomena would soon banish all doubt from his mind; for, on the less-weathered surfaces, he would detect those long parallel scratches and furrows which are the sure signs of glacial action, while, in the hollows and over the low-grounds, he would be confronted with that peculiar deposit of clay and sand and glaciated stones and boulders which are dragged on underneath flowing ice.

Having satisfied ourselves that the rounded outline of the ground is the result of former glacial action, our next step is to discover, if we can, in what direction the abrading agent moved. Did the ice, as we might have supposed, come out of the mountain-valleys and overflow the low country? If that had been the case, then we should expect to find the glacial markings radiating outwards in all directions from the higher elevations. Thus the low-grounds of Uig, in Lewis, should give evidence of having been overflowed by ice coming from the Forest of Harris; the undulating, rocky, and lake-dappled region that extends between Loch Roag and Loch Erisort should be abraded and striated from south-west to north-east. Instead of this, however, the movement has clearly been from south-east to north-west. All the prominent rock-faces that look towards the Minch have been smoothed off and rounded, while in their rear the marks of rubbing and abrading are much less conspicuous. It is evident that the south-east exposure has borne the full brunt of the ice-grinding – the surfaces that are turned in the opposite direction, or towards the Atlantic, having been in a measure protected or sheltered by their position. The striations or scratches that are seen upon the less-weathered surfaces point invariably towards the north-west, and from their character and the mode in which they have been graved upon the rock, we are left in no doubt as to the trend of the old ice-plough – which was clearly from south-east to north-west. Nor is it only the low-grounds that are marked in this direction. Ascend Suaina (1300 feet), and you shall find it showing evident signs of having been abraded all over, from base to summit. The same, indeed, is the case with all the hills that stretch from sea to sea between Uig and Loch Seaforth. Beinn Mheadonach, Ceann Resort, Griosamul, and Liuthaid, are all strongly glaciated from south-east to north-west.

North and South Harris yield unequivocal evidence of having been overflowed by ice which did not stream out of the mountain-valleys, but crossed the island from the Minch to the Atlantic. A number of mountain-glens, coming down from the Forest of Harris, open out upon West Loch Tarbert, and these we see have been crossed at right angles by the ice – the mountains between them being strongly abraded from south-east to north-west. It is the same all over South Harris, which affords the geologist every evidence of having been literally smothered in ice, which has moved in the same persistent direction. The rock-faces that look towards the Minch are all excessively naked; they have been terribly ground down and scraped, and the same holds good with every part of the island exposed to the south-east.

Now, the mode in which the rocks have been so ground, scraped, rounded, and smoothed betokens very clearly the action of land-ice, and not of floating-ice or icebergs. The abrading agent has accommodated itself to all the sinuosities of the ground, sliding into hollows and creeping out of them, moulding itself over projecting rocks, so as eventually to grind away all their asperities, and convert rugged tors and peaks into round-backed, dome-shaped masses. It has carried away the sharp edges of escarpments and ridges, and has deepened the intervening hollows in a somewhat irregular way, so that now these catch the drainage of the land and form lakes. Steep rocks facing the Minch have been bevelled off and rounded atop, while in their rear the ice-plough, not being able to act with effect, has not succeeded in removing the primeval ruggedness of the weathered strata.

I have said that the movement of the ice was from south-east to north-west. But a close examination of the ice-markings will show that the flow was very frequently influenced by the form of the ground. Minor features it was able to disregard, but some prominent projecting rock-masses succeeded in deflecting the ice that flowed against them. For example, if we study the rocks in North Harris, we shall find that the Langa and the Clisham have served as a wedge to divide the ice, part of which flowed away into Lewis, while the other current or stream crept out to sea by West Loch Tarbert. The Langa and the Clisham, indeed, raised their heads above the glacier mass – they were islets in a sea of ice. It is for this reason that they and the Tarcull ridge in South Harris have not been smoothed and abraded, but still preserve their weathered outline. All surfaces below a height of 1600 feet which are exposed to the south-east, and which have not been in recent times broken up by the action of rain and frost, exhibit strongly-marked glaciation. But above that level no signs of ancient ice-work can be recognised.

We see now why it is that the hill-slopes opposite the Minch should, as a rule, be so much more sterile than those which slope down to the Atlantic. The full force of the ice was exerted upon the south-east front, in the rear of which there would necessarily be comparatively “quiet” ice. For the same reason we should expect to find much of the rock débris which the ice swept off the south-east front sheltering on the opposite side. Neither clay nor sand nor stones would gather under the ice upon the steep rocks that face the Minch. The movement there was too severe to permit of any such accumulation. But stones and clay and sand were carried over and swept round the hills, and gradually accumulated in the rear of the ice-worn rocks, just in the same way as gravel and sand are heaped up behind projecting stones and boulders in the bed of a stream. Hence it is that the western margin of Harris is so much less bleak than the opposite side. Considerable taluses of “till,” as the sub-glacial débris is called, gather behind the steeper crags, and ragged sheets of the same material extend over the low-grounds. All the low-grounds of Lewis are in like manner sprinkled with till. Over that region the ice met with but few obstacles to its course, and consequently the débris it forced along underneath was spread out somewhat equally. But wherever hills and peaks and hummocks of rock broke the regularity of the surface, there great abrasion took place and no till was accumulated.

Thus the position and distribution of this sub-glacial débris or bottom-moraine tell the same tale as the abraded rocks and glacial striæ, and clearly indicate an ice-flow from the south-east. This is still further proved by the manner in which the upturned ends of the strata are frequently bent over underneath the till in a north-westerly direction, while the fragments dislodged from them and enclosed in the sub-glacial débris stream away as it were to the same point of the compass. Not only so, but in the west of Lewis, where no red sandstone occurs, we find boulders of red sandstone enclosed in the till, which could not have been derived from any place nearer than Stornoway. In other words, these boulders have travelled across the island from the shores of the Minch to the Atlantic sea-board.

Having said so much about the glaciation of Lewis and Harris, I need not do more than indicate very briefly some of the more interesting features of the islands further south.

I spent some time cruising up and down the Sound of Harris, and found that all the islets there had been ground and scraped by ice flowing in the normal north-west direction, and sub-glacial débris occurs on at least one of the little islands – Harmetrey. But all the phenomena of glaciation are met with in most abundance in the dreary island of North Uist. The ridge of mountains that guards its east coast has been battered, and ground down, and scraped bare in the most wonderful manner, while the melancholy moorlands are everywhere sprinkled with till, full of glaciated stones, many of which have travelled west from the coast range. Benbecula shows in like manner a considerable sprinkling of till, and the trend of the glacial striæ is the same there as in North Uist, namely, a little north of west. There are no hills of any consequence in Benbecula, but the highly-abraded and barren-looking mountains that fringe the eastern margin of North Uist are continued south in the islands of Roney and Fuiey, either of which it would be hard to surpass as examples of the prodigious effect of land-ice in scouring, scraping, and grinding the surface over which it moves.

South Uist presents the same general configuration as North Uist, its east coast being formed of a long range of intensely glaciated mountains, in the rear of which ragged sheets and heaps of sub-glacial débris are thrown and scattered over the low, undulating tract that borders the Atlantic. No part of either Benbecula or North Uist has escaped the action of ice, but in South Uist that knot of high-ground which is dominated by the fine mountains of Beinn Mhor and Hecla towered above the level of the glacier-mass, and have thus been the cause of considerable deflection of the ice-flow. The ice-stream divided, as it were, part flowing round the north flank of Hecla, and part streaming past the southern slopes of Beinn Mhor. But the ice-flow thus divided speedily reunited in the rear of the mountains, the southern stream creeping in from the south-east, and the northern stream stealing round Hecla towards the south-west. The track of this remarkable deflection and reunion is clearly marked out by numerous striæ all over the low-grounds that slope outwards to the Atlantic coast. The till, it need hardly be added, affords the same kind of evidence as the sub-glacial deposits of the other islands, and points unmistakably to a general ice-movement across South Uist from the Minch to the Atlantic.

The influence which an irregular surface has in causing local deflections of an ice-flow is also well seen in Barra, where the striæ sometimes point some 5° or 10°, and sometimes 25° and even 35° north of west – these variations being entirely due to the configuration of the ground. This island is extremely bare in many places, more especially over all the region that slopes to the Minch. The Atlantic border is somewhat better covered with soil, as is the case with South Uist and the other islands already described.

Vatersey, Saundry, Papey, Miuley, and Bearnarey, are all equally well glaciated; but as they show little or no low-ground with gentle slopes, they have preserved few traces of sub-glacial débris. In this respect they resemble the rockier and hillier parts of the large islands to the north. Till, however, is occasionally met with, as for example on the low shores of Vatersey Bay, and on the southern margin of Miuley. Doubtless, if it were carefully looked for it would be found sheltering in patches in many nooks and hollows, protected from the grind of the ice that advanced from the south-east. I saw it in several such places in the islet of Bearnarey, where the striæ indicated an ice-flow as usual towards the north-west.

We have now seen that the whole of the Long Island has been ground, and rubbed, and scraped by land- or glacier-ice which has traversed the ground in a prevalent south-east and north-west direction. We have seen also that this ice attained so great a thickness that it was able to overflow all the hills up to a height of 1600 feet above the sea. It is needless to say that such a mass could not have been nurtured on the islands themselves. They have no gathering grounds of sufficient extent, and if they had, the ice would not have taken the peculiar direction it did. Instead of flowing across the islands it would have radiated outwards from the mountain-valleys. Where, then, did the ice come from?

Looking across the Minch we see Skye and the mountains of the north-west Highlands, and those regions, as we know, have also been subjected to extreme glaciation. From the appearances presented by the mountains of Ross-shire we are compelled to believe that all that region was buried in ice up to a height of not less than 3000 feet – the ice-sheet was probably even as much as 3500 feet in thickness. The evidence shows that the under portion of this vast ice-sheet flowed slowly off the country into the Minch by way of the great sea-lochs. Thus we know that an enormous mass crept down Loch Carron and united with another great stream stealing out from the mountains of Skye, to flow north through the hollows of Raasay Sound and the Inner Sound into the Minch. So deep was the ice that it completely smothered the island of Raasay (1272 feet high) and overflowed all the lofty trappean table-lands of Skye. From the Coolins, as a centre-point, another movement of the ice-sheet was towards the south-west, against the islands of Rum, Cannay, and Eigg. Further north similar vast masses of ice streamed out into the Minch, from Loch Torridon, Gairloch, Loch Ewe, and Loch Broom. The direction of the glaciation in the north of Skye, which is towards north-west, shows that the glacier-mass which overflowed that area must eventually have reached the shores of the Long Island. In short, there cannot be a reasonable doubt that the immense sheet of ice that streamed off the north-west Highlands must have filled up entirely the basin of the Minch, and thereafter streamed across the Outer Hebrides. But it may be objected that if the Outer Hebrides were overflowed by ice that streamed from the mainland across the north end of Skye, we ought to get many fragments of Skye rocks and Ross-shire rocks too in the sub-glacial débris or till of Lewis and Harris, and the north end of North Uist. But all such fragments are apparently wanting. True, there are bits of stone like the igneous rocks of Skye often met with in the Hebridean till, but as veins or dykes of precisely the same kind of rock occur in the Long Island itself, we cannot say that the stones referred to are other than native. A little reflection will show us, however, that it is extremely improbable indeed that stones derived from Skye and the mainland should ever have been dragged on under the ice, and deposited amongst the till of the Long Island. There is only one part of the whole Outer Hebrides where we might have anticipated that fragments from the mainland should occur; and there, sure enough, they put in an appearance.

But before I attempt to explain the non-occurrence of Skye rocks in the till of the Outer Hebrides, let me show in a few words what the glaciation of the Long Island, Skye, and the north-west Highlands teaches us as to the general aspect presented by the ice-sheet. The height reached by the surface of the ice in Ross-shire and the Long Island respectively indicates of course that the main movement was from the mainland. We must conceive of an immense sheet of solid ice filling up all the inequalities of the land, obliterating the glens, and sweeping across the hill-tops; and not only so, but occupying the wide basin of the Minch to the entire exclusion of the sea, the surface of the ice rising so high that it overtopped the whole of the Outer Hebrides, and left only the tips of a few of the higher mountains uncovered. The slope of the surface was persistently outwards from the mainland, and the striation of the Long Island indicates clearly that the dip or inclination of that surface was towards the north-west. Nay, more than this, we are now enabled for the first time to say with some approach to certainty what was the precise angle of that inclination. If we take the upper surface of the ice in Ross-shire to have been 3000 feet (and it was not less), then the slope between the mainland and the Outer Hebrides was only 25 feet in the mile, or about 1 in 210. It is quite possible, however, and even probable, that the actual height attained by the ice-sheet in the north-west Highlands was more than 3000 feet. I think it may yet turn out to have been 3500 feet, and if this were so it would give an inclination for the surface of the ice of about 35 feet in the mile. In either case the slope was so very gentle that to the eye it would have appeared like a level plain. Over the surface of this plain would be scattered here and there a solitary big erratic or two, while in other places long trains of large and small angular boulders would stream outwards. All these would be derived from such mountain in Skye and the mainland as were able to keep their heads above the level of the ice-flow; while a few also might be dislodged by the frost and rolled down upon the glacier from the tips of the Clisham and the Langa in Harris, and Hecla and Beinn Mhor in South Uist. Every such block, it is evident, would be carried across the buried Hebrides, out into the Atlantic in the direction indicated by the glaciation of the Long Island – that is, towards the north-west.

But while the upper strata of the ice doubtless followed that particular course, it is obvious that this could not be the case with the under portion of the great sheet, the path of which would be controlled in large measure by the form of the ground over which the ice moved. The upper strata that overflowed the Outer Hebrides, as we have seen, were locally deflected again and again by important obstacles, and it is quite certain that the same would take place with the deeper portions of the ice-flow.

It is well known that the sea along the inner margin of the Long Island is very deep. In many places it reaches a depth of 600 feet, and occasionally the sounding-lead plunges down for upwards of 700 feet. It would seem, however, that these great depths did not exist before the advent of the ice-sheet, but that the bottom of the Minch along the eastern borders of the Long Island was then some 250 or 300 feet shallower than now, the floor of the sea having since been excavated in the manner I shall presently describe. It is quite apparent, therefore, that the long ridge of the Outer Hebrides must have offered an insuperable obstacle to the direct passage of the bottom-ice out to the Atlantic. Here was a great wall of rock shooting up from the floor of the Minch, at a high angle, to a height ranging in elevation from 400 feet to upwards of 3000 feet. It is simply impossible that the lower strata of the ice that occupied the bed of the Minch could climb that precipitous barricade. They were necessarily deflected, one portion creeping to north-east and another to south-west, but both hugging the great wall of rock all the way. We see precisely the same result taking place in the bed of every stream. Let us stand upon an almost submerged boulder, and note how the water is deflected to right and left, and we shall observe at the same time that the boulder, by obstructing the current, forces the water downwards upon the bed of the stream, the result being that a hollow is dug out in front. Now, in a similar manner, the ice, squeezed and pressed against the Hebridean ridge by the steady flow of the great current that crossed the Minch, necessarily acted with intense erosive force upon its bed. Hence in the course of time it scooped out a series of broad deep trenches along the whole inner margin of the Long Island, the amount of the excavation reaching from 200 to 300 feet. Similar excavated basins occur in like positions opposite all the precipitous islands of the Inner Hebrides. Wherever, indeed, the ice-sheet met with any great obstruction to its flow, there excessive erosion took place, and a more or less deep hollow was dug out in front of the opposing cliff, or crag, or precipitous mountain. While, therefore, the upper strata of the ice-sheet overflowed the Outer Hebrides from south-east to north-west, the under portions of the same great ice-flow were compelled by the contour of the ground to creep away to north-east and south-west, until they could steal round the ridge and so escape outwards to the Atlantic.

This being the case, we have a very simple and obvious explanation of the absence of Skye rocks in the till of the Long Island. One sees readily enough that the sub-glacial débris dragged across the Minch would naturally be carried away to south-west and north-east by the “under-tow” or deflected ice. It is quite impossible that any Skye fragments or bits of rock from the mainland could travel over the bed of the Minch, and then be pushed up the precipitous rock wall of the Long Island. There is only one place in all the Outer Hebrides where we might expect to meet with extraneous boulders in the till, and that is in the north of Lewis, where the land shelves gently into the sea, and the great rocky ridge terminates. Here the under-strata of the ice would begin to steal up upon the land, favoured by its gentle inclination, and in that very place accordingly we meet with a deposit of till in which are found many boulders of a hard red sandstone, and some of various porphyries which are quite alien to the Long Island. Moreover, the till itself in that locality is much more of a clay than the usual sub-glacial débris in other parts of Lewis, and contains numerous fragments of sea-shells. All this is quite in keeping with the other evidence. The extreme north end of Lewis was overflowed by the under-current that crept up the bed of the Minch, hugging the Hebridean ridge, and dragging along with it a muddy mass interspersed with the shells and other marine exuviæ that lay in its path, and numerous stones, some of which may have come from Skye, while others were derived from the mainland.