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Fourth Estate London
To Plaxy
Table of Contents
Cover Page
Title Page
Dedication
La Convivialità
‘You’ll never be a chef, Locatelli!’
Food, love and life…
Antipasti Starters
Pellegrino Artusi
The traditional Italian meal
Italian food today
Reinterpreting the classics
Insalate e condimenti Salads and dressings
Olio d’oliva Olive oil
Aceto Vinegar
Dressings
Giorgio’s vinaigrette
Aspretto di zafferano Saffron vinaigrette
Condimento allo scalogno Shallot vinaigrette
Condimento all’aceto balsamico Balsamic vinaigrette
Olio e limone Oil and lemon dressing
Maionese Mayonnaise
Seasoning
Prezzemolo e aglio Parsley and garlic
Caponata
Deep-frying
Insalata di radicchio, prataioli e gorgonzola piccante/dolce Radicchio salad with button mushrooms and Gorgonzola dressing
Insalata di porcini alla griglia Chargrilled cep salad
Acciughe Anchovies
Insalata di puntarelle, capperi e acciughe Puntarelle salad with capers and anchovies
Capperi Capers
Insalata di endivia e Ovinfort Chicory with Ovinfort cheese
Carciofi Globe artichokes
Insalata di carciofi alla Parmigiana Artichoke salad with Parmesan
Insalata di fagiolini, cipolle rosse e Parmigiano Green bean salad with roast red onion and Parmesan
Insalata di fagiolini gialli, patate e tartufo Yellow bean, potato and black truffle salad
Insalata di asparagi e Parmigiano Asparagus salad with Parmesan
Insalata di cardi alla Fontina Swiss chard envelopes with Fontina
Olive Olives
Accompaniments for salumi Zucchine all’olio Grilled courgettes in olive oil
Sottaceti Pickled vegetables
Cipolline all’aceto balsamico Baby onions in balsamic vinegar
Carciofi Artichokes
Peperoni Peppers
Barbabietole Beetroot
Melanzane Aubergine
Finferli Girolle mushrooms
Mozzarella and Burrata ‘Pearly-white treasure’
Burrata
Seafood antipasti
Sgombro all’aspretto di zafferano Mackerel with saffron vinaigrette
Sardine alla rivierasca Fried stuffed sardines
Carpione di pesce persico Escabeche of perch
Insalata di polpo e patate novelle Octopus salad with new potatoes
Carpaccio di polpo Octopus carpaccio
Calamari Squid
Calamari ripieni alla griglia Chargrilled stuffed squid with tomato
Insalata di seppia alla griglia Chargrilled cuttlefish salad
Gamberi e borlotti Prawns with fresh borlotti beans
Capesante all’aspretto di zafferano Pan-fried scallops with saffron vinaigrette
Razza al balsamico Skate wing with aged balsamic vinegar
Insalata di borlotti, tonno e cipolle rosse Tuna salad with borlotti beans and red onion
Bottarga
Insalata di ravanelli e bottarga di muggine Grey mullet roe and radish salad
Salumi Cured meats
Salami
Prosciutto
Slicing and serving salumi
Prosciutto e fichi Parma ham and figs
Bresaola di cervo e sedano di Verona Cured venison with celeriac and black truffle
Bresaola di manzo al caprino Thinly sliced cured beef with goats’ cheese dressing
Carpaccio di manzo Beef carpaccio
Sformato di patate, pancetta e Taleggio Layered potatoes and pancetta with cheese sauce
Mondeghini Stuffed cabbage
Lingua di manzo in salsa verde Ox tongue with green sauce
Testina di vitello Calf’s head salad
Insalata di piedino di vitello Calves’ foot salad
Pane Bread
The flour
The colomba
Baking
Yeast
Water
Parmesan grissini
Pizzette
Schiaccata di San Zenone
Focaccia classica
A more complex focaccia
Flavoured bread
Flavourings All’aglio Confit garlic
Alle melanzane Aubergine
Al pomodoro secco e salvia Sun-dried tomato and sage
Al grano saraceno, patate e verze Cabbage, potato and buckwheat
The biga
Pane di mais Polenta bread
Pane di zucca e uva Pumpkin and raisin bread
Pan tramvai Raisin bread
Pane al farro Spelt bread
Like grandmother, like grandson
Zuppa Soup
Old Italian proverb
Zuppa di cannolicchi e fregola Razor clam and fregola soup
Minestrone alla genovese Minestrone verde with pesto
Minestrone agli scampi Minestrone with langoustines
Zuppa di pesce Fish soup
Zuppa fredda di pomodoro Chilled tomato soup
Aglio Garlic
Zuppa all’aglio novello New season’s garlic soup
Zuppa di lenticchie Lentil soup
Fagioli Beans
Soaking and Cooking Beans
Zuppa di borlotti e farro Borlotti bean soup with spelt
Zuppa di cannellini Cannellini bean soup
Zuppa di ceci e pancetta Chickpea soup with pancetta
Zuppa di broccoli e gnocchetti di ricotta Broccoli soup with ricotta cheese dumplings
Tortellini in brodo Chicken parcels in clear broth
The great escapist
Risotto
Elizabeth David, Italian Food, 1954
Riso The rice
Brodo The stock
The technique
Ideal proportions
The cheese
Parmigiano Reggiano Parmesan
Risotto alla lodigiana Classic risotto with grana cheese
Making the soffritto
The tostatura – ‘toasting’ the rice
Adding the stock
Resting
The mantecatura
Tartufi bianchi White truffles
Tartufo nero Black truffles
Truffle oil
Preparing truffles
Risotto al tartufo bianco White truffle risotto
Zafferano Saffron
Risotto allo zafferano Saffron risotto
Risotto agli asparagi Asparagus risotto
Risotto alle ortiche Nettle risotto
Ceps Porcini
Buying and preparing porcini
Risotto ai porcini Cep risotto
Risotto ai carciofi Artichoke risotto
Risotto alla zucca e noce moscata Pumpkin and nutmeg risotto
Risotto al Barolo e Castelmagno Risotto with Barolo wine and Castelmagno cheese
Risotti di pesce Seafood risotti
Risotto alle vongole Clam risotto
Risotto alle code di gamberi Prawn risotto
Risotto agli scampi Langoustine risotto
Risotto al Prosecco con capesante Prosecco risotto with scallops
Risotti di carne Risotti with sausage and game
Risotto luganiga e piselli Risotto with sausage and peas
Risotto alle quaglie Quail risotto
Risotto another day
Arancini
Brodi Stocks
Chicken stock
Veal stock
Pork, lamb and venison stock
Fish stock
Vegetable stock
Soho nights
Pasta
‘Everything you see I owe to spaghetti’ Sophia Loren
Marco Polo?
More than macaroni
A pasta for every sauce
Fresh or dried
A plate of pasta…
Dried pasta
The soul of the pasta
Six minutes of your life…
The formula
Dried pasta: long
Dried pasta: short tubes
Dried pasta: shapes
Spaghetti al crudo Spaghetti with tomatoes, olives, capers and anchovies
Spaghetti al polpo Spaghetti with octopus
Pomodori Tomatoes
Linguine al pesto Linguine with pesto
Pesto
Pesto
Linguine all’ aragosta Linguine with lobster
Linguine agli scampi Linguine with langoustine
Linguine alle vongole Linguine with clams
Linguine alla bottarga Linguine with bottarga
Linguine con sardine e finocchietto selvatico Linguine with sardine and wild fennel
Peperoncino Chilli
Orecchiette alle cime di rapa e peperoncino Orecchiette with turnip tops and chilli
Orecchiette con piselli, pancetta e tartufo nero Orecchiette with peas, pancetta and black truffle
Malloreddus al pomodoro e ricotta salata Sardinian-style pasta with tomato and mature ricotta
Homemade walnut paste
Garganelli in salsa noci Tubular pasta with walnut sauce
Garganelli pesto e pomodoro Tubular pasta with tomato and pesto sauce
Garganelli con triglia e olive nere Tubular pasta with red mullet and black olives
Fresh egg pasta
Making the pasta
Rolling the pasta
Egg pasta: long
Egg pasta: short
Egg pasta: flat
Egg pasta: filled
Pappardelle alle fave e rucola Pappardelle with broad beans and rocket
Pappardelle ai fegatini di pollo e salvia Pappardelle with chicken liver and sage
Pappardelle ai porcini Pappardelle with ceps
Tagliatelle alle sarde in saor Tagliatelle with marinated sardines
Tagliatelle di castagne ai funghi selvatici Chestnut tagliatelle with wild mushrooms
Tagliolini alle zucchine e bottarga Fresh egg pasta with courgettes and fish roe
Tagliolini con cicoria Tagliolini with chicory
Pasta with ragù
Ragù alla bolognese
Ragù di maiale Pork ragù
Ragù di cervo Venison ragù
Ragù di cinghiale Wild boar ragù
Pasta al forno Baked pasta
Not only lasagne…
Fazzoletti alla purea di legumi e basilico Layered pasta with spring vegetables and basil purée
Filled pasta
Ravioli di patate e menta con peperoni Potato and mint parcels with pepper sauce
Ravioli di erbe con salsa di noci Herb ravioli with walnut sauce
Ravioli di patate e funghi selvatici New potato ravioli with wild mushrooms
Tordelli di cipolla rossa e salsa al Chianti Red onion parcels with Chianti sauce
Tordelli di zucca agli amaretti Pasta parcels with pumpkin and amaretti
Tordelli di melanzane e mozzarella Aubergine and mozzarella parcels
Malfatti di ricotta, melanzane e noci Ricotta parcels with aubergine and walnuts
Melanzane Aubergines
Ravioli di gamberi Prawn ravioli
Ravioli all’osso buco Veal shank ravioli
Ravioli di coda di manzo Oxtail parcels
Ravioli di fagiano Pheasant ravioli
Strozzapreti alle tre cipolle Pasta twists with onion
Spaghetti alla chitarra con polpettine di tonno Handmade spaghetti with balls of tuna
Potato gnocchi
Potato gnocchi dough
Gnocchi di patate al pepe nero e salsa al caprino Potato dumplings with black pepper and goats’ cheese sauce
Gnocchi di patate pomodoro e rucola Potato dumplings with tomato and rocket
Gnocchi di patate al pesto Potato dumplings with pesto
Gnocchi di patate ai funghi porcini Potato dumplings with ceps
Gnocchi di patate con carciofi e Murazzano Potato dumplings with artichoke and Murazzano cheese
Gnocchetti di funghi al burro e salvia e tartufo nero Small mushroom dumplings with butter, sage and truffles
Paris
Pesce Fish
Anna Del Conte, Entertaining all’Italiana
What kind of fish?
The smell of the sea
A note on cooking fish
Parsley, sage, rosemary – but not thyme
Branzino alla Vernaccia in crosta di pomodoro Sea bass with tomato crust and Vernaccia wine
Branzino in crosta di sale e erbe Sea bass in sea salt and herbs
Branzino al basilico Sea bass with basil potato purée
Trancio di tonno alla griglia Chargrilled tuna
Limone Lemons
Nasello in scabeccio Steamed hake with parsley and garlic
Sgombro alla griglia con crosta di erbe Chargrilled mackerel with herb crust
Anguilla Eel
Trancio di merluzzo con lenticchie Cod with lentils
San Pietro con patate e olive Fillet of John Dory with potato and olives
Coda di rospo in salsa di noci e agrodolce di capperi Monkfish with walnut and agrodolce
Trancio di rombo ai funghi porcini con purè di patate Roasted turbot (or brill) with ceps and potato purée
Sogliola arrosto con patate, fagiolini e pesto Roast Dover sole with potatoes, beans and pesto sauce
Orata al balsamico Pan-fried sea bream with balsamic vinegar
Trancio di rombo liscio all’acquapazza Roast brill with green olives and cherry tomatoes
Filetti di passera al basilico con patate e olive Plaice with basil, potatoes and olives
Pangrattato Breadcrumbs
Filetti di passera con castelfranco finocchi e bagna càôda Roast fillet of plaice with fennel and anchovy sauce
Sardine con panzanella Sardines with bread salad
Paella on a motorbike…
Carne Meat
Matthew Fort, Eating Up Italy
Save the butchers
Nose to tail
Long and slow
Vitello Veal
La Chianina
The hunt
A note about cooking meat
Agnello primaverile alla griglia con peperonata e melanzane Chargrilled lamb with peppers and aubergine purée
Stufato di agnello con peperoni Lamb stew with peppers
Polenta
Filetto di manzo, spugnole e patate Beef fillet with morels and potatoes
Sottofiletto di manzo alla griglia con radicchio trevisano tardivo e polenta Chargrilled beef sirloin with trevisano and polenta
Radicchio/cicoria Chicory/endive
Filetto di cervo, porcini e crema fritta Loin of venison, ceps and fried pastry cream
Costoletta di vitello con carciofi e patate novelle Veal chop with artichoke and new potatoes
Scallopine
Paillard di pollo con spinaci Chargrilled chicken breast with spinach
Pollastra bollita al tartufo nero di norcia, vegetali bolliti e salsa verde Poached chicken stuffed with black truffle, with boiled vegetables and salsa verde
Filetti di maiale con cavolo nero e fagioli Pork fillet with black cabbage and cannellini beans
Filetto di maiale con crosta di mostarda e borlotti Pork fillet with mustard crust and borlotti beans
Mostarda di Cremona Mustard fruits
Fegato di vitello al balsamico Calves’ liver with balsamic vinegar
Rognone di vitello con lenticchie e carciofi Veal kidney with lentils and artichoke
Anatra con broccoli Duck breast with broccoli
Pernice con lenticchie e purè di patate Partridge with lentils and potato purée
Piccione, tartufo nero e purè d’aglio Roast pigeon, black truffle and garlic purée
Cervello Brains
Animelle di vitello in agrodolce Veal sweetbreads with sweet-and-sour sauce
Basic sauce for meat
London to stay
Dolci Desserts
Elizabeth David, Italian Food, 1954
Frutta Fruit
Torte e pasticceria Cakes and pastries
Frittelle
Festival time
Biscotti
The art of the pastry chef
Sorbetto di melone, fragole selvatiche, salsa all’arancio Wild strawberries with melon sorbet and orange sauce
Lasagne di fragole e mango Strawberry and mango lasagne
Dulce de leche caramel
Pere cotte al vino rosso e bianco Poached pears in red and white wine
Pere cotte e crude con zabaione a moscato Moscato zabaglione with confit and fresh pears
Pesche Peaches
Pesche sciroppate, semifreddo di menta e gelatina d’Amaretto Poached peaches with fresh mint nougat glace and Amaretto jelly
Macedonia di nespole e sanguinelle, gelatina di violetta e schiuma allo yogurt Blood orange and fresh loquat salad with violet jelly and yoghurt foam
Catalan cream foam with berries
Sorbetto di menta, frutto della passione e schiuma di cocco Mint sorbet, passion fruit jelly and coconut foam
Pasta frolla Sweet pastry
Torta di ciliege Cherry tart
Torta di pesche all’Amaretto Peach and Amaretto tart
Torta di mele Apple tart
Torta di limone e mascarpone Lemon and mascarpone tart
Ricotta
Torta di ricotta Ricotta tart
Cannoli di ricotta
Pastiera Napoletana Easter tart
Rusumada
Zuppa di pomodoro dolce, gelatina di balsamica e sorbetto al basilico Sweet tomato soup, balsamic jelly and basil sorbet
Souffle di riso carnaroli al limone Carnaroli rice and lemon soufflé
Tiramisu with banana and liquorice ice cream
Gelati e sorbetti Ice creams and sorbets
The science of ice cream
A note about the sugars
Sorbetto di melone Melon sorbet
Sorbetto di menta Mint sorbet
Sorbetto di basilico Basil sorbet
Gelato alla vaniglia Vanilla ice cream
Gelato al latte Milk ice cream
Gelato di crema Catalana Crème Catalan ice cream
Gelato al mascarpone Mascarpone ice cream
Gelato al timo limonato Lemon thyme ice cream
Gelato all’Amaretto Amaretto ice cream
Gelato al mirto Myrtle ice cream
Gelato al Limoncello Limoncello ice cream
Gelato al tartufo e miele Truffle honey ice cream
Gelato al caffè Coffee ice cream
Gelato alla liquirizia Liquorice ice cream
Gelato alle nocciole Hazelnut ice cream
Gelato al pistacchio Pistachio ice cream
Gelato al te Marco Polo tea ice cream
Gelato alla cannella Cinnamon ice cream
Gelato al panettone Panettone ice cream
Panettone
Amaretti biscuits
Almond tuiles
Hazelnut tuiles
Frangipane crisps
Hazelnut crisps
Mandorle, nocciole, noci e castagne Almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts and chestnuts
Special sablé biscuits
Salted special sablé biscuits
Biscotti al latte Milk crisps
Lemon thyme caramel crisps
Le guarnizioni Garnishes
Apple crisps
Candied mint
Candied vanilla pods
Cioccolato Chocolate
Chocolate parfait and foam
Torta al cioccolato e mandorle Chocolate and almond tart
Zuppa di cioccolato e yogurt White chocolate and yoghurt soup
Saffron and chocolate fondant
Chocolate fondant with Bicerin di Gianduiotto
Sformato d’arancia e cioccolato, pannacotta all’acqua di rose Orange and chocolate sformato sponge with rose water pannacotta
Frittelle di cioccolato e banana Chocolate and banana beignets
Formaggi Cheese
This life
Index
Photos
Acknowledgements
Also by Giorgio Locatelli
Copyright
About the Publisher
La Convivialità
I wanted to call this book Made of Italy, because that is what I am – but I could as easily have called it La Convivialità – because that is the word I use most to explain the way Italians feel about food. For us the sign of welcome is to feed people. At the heart of all cooking, whether you are rich or poor, is the spirit of conviviality, the pleasure that comes from sharing a meal with others. And there is no enjoyment of food, without quality.
The way I think about food is entirely in tune with the Slow Food movement, started in Italy back in 1986 by Carlo Petrini in defiance of the opening of a McDonalds outlet in the Piazza di Spagna in Roma. Now a world wide force, Slow Food champions local, traditional produce with real flavour, made by caring people with skill and wisdom, which is celebrated every two years – with wonderful conviviality – at the Salone del Gusto, the famous food fair in Torino.
In the UK it is easy to blame supermarkets for clocking up air miles, for persuading us that we want fruit and vegetables that look perfect, but often have little flavour; for luring us on to diets of things that are salty, fatty, sugary and easy to eat; for packaging everything into convenient parcels so that we almost forget where our food comes from; and conditioning us to think that as long as our food is cheap, we are satisfied. But we have responsibilities too, and we have the power to change things. Of course I understand when you have kids you want to go to the supermarket, not traipse for miles trying to find a good butcher and fishmonger and green-grocer, and I’m not sitting here in my restaurant saying, you must do this and that, only remember that every time you pick up food in a supermarket, you are making a choice that has consequences. Where do you want to invest your money? In the profits of a supermarket, or in a farm rearing fantastic old breeds of pigs, or a small dairy making beautiful cheese?