The Hummingbird Bakery Life is Sweet: 100 original recipes for happy home baking

Copyright

Fourth Estate

An imprint of HarperCollinsPublishers 1 London Bridge Street London SE1 9GF

www.harpercollins.co.uk

First published in Great Britain by Fourth Estate in 2015

Text copyright © Tarek Malouf 2015

Photography © Kate Whittaker 2015

Tarek Malouf asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, downloaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins

Source ISBN: 9780007564590

Ebook Edition © JANUARY 2015 ISBN: 9780007564606

Version: 2015-02-10

Contents

Cover

Title Page

Copyright

Introduction

Cakes

Cupcakes

Layer Cakes

Pies

Cookies & Candies

Traybakes

Pancakes

Ice Cream

Puddings

Bread & Savouries

Baking Essentials

List of Recipes

Acknowledgements

About the Author

About the Publisher

Introduction

When I opened the door of The Hummingbird Bakery in Portobello Road in 2004, and let the first customer in, I didn’t realise that I was also opening the door onto a journey that would take me into the almost endless world of American baking. A handful of loyal customers accompanied me, at that first bakery, in discovering new American-style goodies. They were soon joined by many home-bakers, indulging their sweet tooths, honing their whisking and frosting skills, wowing their friends, colleagues and families with impressive multi-layer cakes, fluffy cupcakes and abundant sweet bakes. As more Hummingbird Bakery branches opened in London, our reach expanded much further thanks to our recipe books and social media pages. What we all share is a love of baking and an appreciation for the quirky fabulousness that is the American baked good!

Americana can be loud – all neon lights and shiny colours. There are those American goodies we’re all familiar with: they stand out, demand to be noticed and they almost seem to know they’re famous. But there’s more to the United States and its sweet treats than that. Whilst every American region has its specialties, there’s no place like the South if you want to enter a unique world of baked goods. These goodies will draw you in and envelop you like the sweet scent of a pie cooling in an open window.

Down south, things are slower and most definitely sweeter. When I started to think about what kind of recipes I wanted to gather and write for this book, my mind kept turning back to some of the tantalisingly special things that I had eaten on my trips to the United States and especially to the South. I knew that beyond the Pecan Pies and Red Velvet Cakes there were so many other recipes, unknown in the UK, that were begging to be discovered by our wonderful home-bakers.

I decided to go on a journey that would take me from New York City down to Durham in North Carolina, on to Atlanta and New Orleans, and end up in Dallas. Visiting relatives and old friends, I had come armed with only one demand: take me to the best desserts in town! And everyone duly helped out – after all, who could turn down the chance to eat dessert in the name of research?

In eating my way southwards, I discovered the rich, spicy tastes of old-fashioned recipes known only in specific regions; treats that were show stoppers; cakes that needed many steps and careful consideration (people had more time for baking in the past); but also easy recipes that could be mixed up in minutes but tasted just as good.

Running through all the recipes was a history of the South, and indeed the United States as a whole. Ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg from the Old World, liberally used, blending together with pecans and pumpkins from the New World. Fruits that need the hot sun, such as peaches from Georgia and oranges from Florida, to freshen things up and give a zing to cakes and pies. The peanuts and sweet potatoes used by African slaves in their daily cooking, along with cornbread and molasses, that influenced American baking in a unique way. Peanut butter in particular is so familiar to the American palate that it is strange to think it seemed crazily exotic to British bakers a generation ago. The Southern baker has never shied away from experimentation, with vintage recipes made with odd ingredients sitting alongside the traditional goodies made with the Holy Trinity of Southern ingredients: pumpkins, pecans and bourbon. Throw in a lot of chocolate, some marshmallows and maybe a little more bourbon and you’re on your way to discovering how Southerners like their desserts!

Most of all, I am excited to introduce readers to recipes that they have probably not seen before. I know how excited they will be to progress that one step further into the rich history and techniques of American baking – to treat their friends and family with delicious creations. At The Hummingbird Bakery we love the fact that we’ve brought our readers on an American baking journey, and we’re excited to say that we think we’ve reached the final destination. We’re kicking back on the rocking chair with our plate of pie and declaring that Life is Sweet.

Tarek

Cakes

Gooey Butter Cake

Oatmeal Spice Cake

7Up Pound Cake

Black Fruitcake

Molasses Pecan Crumb Cake

Kentucky Bourbon Cake

Chocolate Bundt Cake

Ozark Pudding Cake

Gingerbread Cake

Tunnel of Fudge Cake

Upside-down Pear Cake

Gooey Butter Cake

This cake of two parts, a yeast dough base and soft, gooey topping, originates in St Louis, Missouri. Remember to take it out of the oven while still very slightly wobbly – it will firm up and set as it cools.

Makes one 23 x 32cm (9 x 13in) cake, to slice as desired

For the cake

55ml (2fl oz) whole milk

55ml (2fl oz) water

50g (2oz) unsalted butter

2½ tsp dried active or instant yeast

265g (9½oz) plain flour

50g (2oz) caster sugar

½ tsp salt

1 large egg

For the gooey butter filling

310g (11oz) unsalted butter, softened

160ml (5½fl oz) condensed milk (sweetened)

160g (5½oz) golden syrup

2 large eggs

90g (3oz) plain flour

1½ tsp vanilla extract

Pinch of salt

Icing sugar, to decorate

One 23 x 32cm (9 x 13in) tin

1. To make the cake, preheat the oven to 175°C (350°F), Gas mark 4. Grease the tin with butter and dust with flour.

2. Heat the milk, water and butter in a small saucepan over a low heat until the butter has melted. Allow to cool until lukewarm, sprinkle the yeast over the top and stir. Leave for 10 minutes.

3. Put the flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a freestanding mixer or a bowl you can use an electric whisk in and mix together with a fork. Pour in the yeast mixture and egg and mix for 2 minutes at a medium speed, making sure you scrape down the sides of the bowl as you go, until combined. Switch to the dough hook and knead for 10 minutes on a medium speed.

4. Pour the dough into the prepared tin – it will be soft and sticky. Press the dough into the tin so that it fills it up completely, pressing it up the sides of the tin. Set aside while you make the filling. The dough will rise a little in the tin as you prepare the filling – this is normal.

5. Using a freestanding electric mixer with the paddle attachment or a hand-held electric whisk, beat the butter for around 5 minutes on a medium-high speed until light and fluffy. Add two-thirds of the condensed milk and beat on a medium-high speed until light. Add the syrup and mix thoroughly.

6. Add the eggs, one at a time, on a lower speed, mixing in between each addition, and then continue beating on a medium-high speed for about 2 minutes until the batter is light and fluffy. Mix in the flour and remaining condensed milk, a little at a time, alternating between the two ingredients. Add the vanilla and salt at the end and mix well.

7. Spoon and spread the filling over the yeast dough and bake for 30 minutes or until golden. The filling will be slightly wobbly, but it will set as it cools. Dust the cake with icing sugar once cool.

Oatmeal Spice Cake

A moist, spiced sponge, rich with molasses and brown sugar and topped with a lovely coconut and pecan crust. Be careful when finishing the crust under the hot grill – you want it bubbly and brown, but not burnt to a crisp!

Makes one 23 x 32cm (9 x 13in) cake, to slice as desired

For the spice cake

90g (3oz) rolled oats

290ml (10fl oz) boiling water

200g (7oz) plain flour

1½ tsp bicarbonate of soda

1½ tsp ground cinnamon

½ tsp salt

½ tsp ground nutmeg

115g (4oz) unsalted butter, softened

200g (7oz) soft light brown sugar

110g (4oz) caster sugar

2 large eggs

2 tbsp pure cane molasses, such as Meridian

For the coconut topping

55g (2oz) unsalted butter

200g (7oz) soft light brown sugar

120ml (4fl oz) whipping cream

100g (3½oz) shredded or desiccated coconut

120g (4oz) chopped pecans

One 23 x 32cm (9 x 13in) tin

1. To make the cake, preheat the oven to 175°C (350°F), Gas mark 4. Line the tin with non-stick baking parchment.

2. Mix the oats and boiling water together in a bowl and set aside. In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, bicarbonate of soda, cinnamon, salt and nutmeg.

3. Using a freestanding electric mixer with the paddle attachment or a hand-held electric whisk, cream the butter and sugars together for around 5 minutes on a medium-high speed until light and fluffy.

4. Add the eggs, one at a time, on a lower speed, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition. Add the molasses and mix until just incorporated. Next, add the dry ingredients on a low speed, making sure not to overbeat, until just incorporated and mixed through. Stir in the oats and water mixture by hand.

5. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin and bake for 30–35 minutes, until a skewer inserted into the cake comes out clean. Allow to cool in the tin for about an hour before you put the topping on.

6. To make the coconut topping, gently heat the butter, brown sugar and cream in a saucepan until the sugar is dissolved, and then take off the heat. Add the coconut and pecans and mix well.

7. Spread the topping over the cake and put under a hot grill for 2–3 minutes, until the topping is bubbly and browned. Do not step away from the grill – it can burn very easily.

7Up Pound Cake

Recipes using various carbonated soft drinks abound in vintage American recipe booklets. Most church groups and school parent-teacher associations still produce these spiral-bound booklets, with recipes donated by their members. This simple pound cake is made moist and slightly citrusy by using 7Up, but you can substitute your own favourite lemony fizzy drink.

Makes one 900g (2lb) loaf cake, to slice as desired

165g (6oz) unsalted butter

320g (11oz) caster sugar

3 large eggs

200g (7oz) plain flour

1 tsp grated lemon zest

½ tsp vanilla extract

90ml (3fl oz) (less than a third of a can) 7Up or other lemon-lime carbonated drink

One 900g (2lb) loaf tin

1. Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F), Gas mark 3. Line the loaf tin with non-stick baking parchment.

2. Using a freestanding electric mixer with the paddle attachment or a hand-held electric whisk, cream the butter and sugar together for around 10 minutes on a medium-high speed until very light and fluffy.

3. Add the eggs, one at a time, mixing after each addition, beating only until just incorporated. Remember to scrape down the sides of the bowl occasionally. Mix in the flour, lemon zest and vanilla extract until thoroughly mixed, but do not overbeat. Fold in the 7Up or equivalent by hand.

4. Spoon the mixture into the prepared tin and level the surface. Bake for about 1 hour or until a skewer inserted into the cake comes out clean and the top bounces back when lightly touched. Cool briefly in the tin and then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

Black Fruitcake

We couldn’t resist including this traditional Southern recipe, rich with boozy fruits, molasses, dark sugar and spices. As with all fruitcakes, if you make this a few months in advance and season it with rum every few days, it’ll be so much better.

Makes one 25cm (10in) ring cake or two 900g (2lb) loaf cakes, to slice as desired

100g (3½oz) prunes, pitted and chopped

125g (4½oz) dates, pitted and chopped

100g (3½oz) currants

100g (3½oz) raisins

60g (2oz) each candied orange and lemon peel

60g (2oz) candied pineapple

75g (2½oz) glacé cherries, halved

300ml (10½fl oz) ruby port

160ml (5½fl oz) dark rum

270g (9½oz) plain flour

2 tsp bicarbonate of soda

1 tsp each ground allspice

and cinnamon

¾ tsp each ground nutmeg, mace and cloves

½ tsp salt

150g (5½oz) unsalted butter, softened

200g (7oz) dark muscovado sugar

3 large eggs

80g (3oz) pure cane molasses, such as Meridian

1½ tsp vanilla extract

115g (4oz) pecans or walnuts, coarsely chopped

One 25cm (10in) ring mould or two 900g (2lb) loaf tins

1. In a large Tupperware or glass container with a lid, combine the dried, candied and glacé fruits with 200ml (7fl oz) of the port and all the rum and cover. This should be kept at room temperature for at least 2 days – stirring twice a day. It can be left for up to 6 weeks.

2. Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F), Gas mark 2 and grease the ring mould or loaf tins with butter.

3. In a large bowl, sift together the flour, bicarbonate of soda, spices and salt.

4. Using a freestanding electric mixer with the paddle attachment or a hand-held electric whisk, cream the butter and sugar together for around 5 minutes on a medium-high speed until light and fluffy.

5. Add the eggs, one at a time, on a lower speed, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition and beating well. Mix in the molasses and vanilla on a low speed, and then add the dry ingredients, a few tablespoons at a time. Stir in the fruit and nuts by hand, with any leftover soaking liquid. The fruit and nuts and liquid can be puréed if you prefer a more smooth-textured cake.

6. Scrape the batter into the prepared ring mould or loaf tins and bake for 1 hour 30 minutes–1 hour 50 minutes, until a skewer inserted into the cake comes out clean. Cool the cake in the tin, then skewer little holes on top and pour in the remaining port. You can also sprinkle with more dark rum if desired. Turn out the cake once the extra liquid has soaked in and cool completely.

7. Wrap the cake tightly with baking parchment and foil and store at room temperature for at least a week before eating. If fully sealed, the cake can be stored for a further two to three months, and ‘seasoned’ every few days with some more rum.

Molasses Pecan Crumb Cake

Molasses was historically imported into America from the Caribbean and continued to be the main form of sweetener until around World War I, as normal sugar was very expensive. Still commonly used in American baking, it makes things moist and rich and irresistible.

Makes one 23cm (9in) cake, to slice as desired

For the crumb topping

70g (2½oz) dark muscovado sugar

100g (3½oz) plain flour

55g (2oz) unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

50g (2oz) pecans, finely chopped

For the cake

200g (7oz) golden caster sugar

170g (6oz) unsalted butter, melted

175g (6oz) pure cane molasses, such as Meridian

2 tsp vanilla extract

2 large eggs

355g (12oz) plain flour

2 tsp ground ginger

1 tsp ground cinnamon

1 tsp ground allspice

1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

½ tsp salt

235ml (8fl oz) warm coffee (filter or instant)

75g (2½oz) pecans, chopped

One 23cm (9in) deep spring-form cake tin

1. Base line the spring-form cake tin with non-stick baking parchment. Preheat the oven to 175°C (350°F), Gas mark 4.

2. To make the crumb topping, mix the muscovado sugar and flour in a bowl. With cold, dry fingers, rub the cubes of butter into the sugar and flour to make crumbs. With a fork, mix in the pecans. Put into the fridge while you make the cake.

3. Using a freestanding electric mixer with the paddle attachment or a hand-held electric whisk, mix together the sugar, butter, molasses and vanilla on a medium speed until very well mixed and smooth.

4. Add the eggs, one at a time, on a lower speed, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition. Sift together the flour, ginger, cinnamon, allspice, bicarbonate of soda and salt. Mix in the flour and spices and the coffee, alternating between the two, starting and finishing with the flour and spices. Add the pecans and mix in by hand.

5. Pour the batter (it will be thin) into the prepared spring-form tin. Sprinkle evenly with the crumb topping that has been chilling in the fridge.

6. Bake for about 50 minutes–1 hour until the top is firm and springy and a skewer inserted into the cake comes out clean. Best served warm after cooling for 30–45 minutes.

Kentucky Bourbon Cake

You don’t have to use actual Kentucky bourbon for this cake – any whiskey will do, but bourbon does make it that extra bit authentic. Close your eyes after a few slices and you could actually be in the Bluegrass State!

Makes one 25cm (10in) ring cake, to slice as desired

For the cake

375g (13oz) plain flour

1 tsp baking powder

½ tsp bicarbonate of soda

1 tsp salt

225g (8oz) unsalted butter, softened

300g (10½oz) caster sugar

100g (3½oz) soft light brown sugar

4 large eggs

60ml (2fl oz) Kentucky bourbon or whiskey

235ml (8fl oz) buttermilk

For the glaze

85g (3oz) unsalted butter

150g (5½oz) caster sugar

60ml (2fl oz) Kentucky bourbon or whiskey

One 25cm (10in) ring mould

1. To make the cake, preheat the oven to 175°C (350°F), Gas mark 4. Grease the ring mould with butter and dust with flour and set aside.

2. In a bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and salt. Set aside.

3. Using a freestanding electric mixer with the paddle attachment or a hand-held electric whisk, cream the butter and sugars together for around 5 minutes on a medium-high speed until light and fluffy.

4. Add the eggs, one at a time, on a lower speed, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition. In a small jug, mix together the bourbon and buttermilk by hand. Add the flour mixture to the bowl in three additions, alternating with the bourbon and buttermilk, adding the flour first. Only mix until the ingredients are just incorporated. Finish mixing in the last addition by hand.

5. Pour the batter into the prepared ring mould and bake for 40-45 minutes. When the cake is golden on top and bounces back when lightly touched, remove from the oven and leave in the mould.

6. To make the glaze, combine the butter, sugar and bourbon in a saucepan. Place over a low heat and cook just until the butter melts and the sugar is dissolved, then whisk vigorously to combine.

7. Take the cake, which should still be in the mould, and poke holes all over the top of the cake with a skewer. Pour three-quarters of the glaze slowly over the cake, letting it soak in carefully. Save the remaining quarter of the glaze.

8. Allow the cake to cool for 30 minutes, then flip over and turn out of the mould. Brush the remaining glaze over the top of the cake.

Chocolate Bundt Cake

Yes, you read correctly, this cake contains mayonnaise! Many vintage American recipes substituted processed shortcuts for separate ingredients. In this extremely delicious chocolate cake, the oil or butter is replaced with mayonnaise – and before you panic, it works beautifully. American Bundt tins, which make for a prettier cake, can be ordered online and will last you for years.

Makes one 25cm (10in) Bundt cake, to slice as desired

For the cake

270g (9½oz) plain flour

1¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda

½ tsp baking powder

¼ tsp salt

295ml (10½fl oz) buttermilk

70g (2½oz) cocoa powder

235g (8oz) mayonnaise

2 large eggs

165g (6oz) soft light brown sugar

160g (5½oz) caster sugar

1½ tsp vanilla extract

60g (2oz) dark chocolate (minimum 70% cocoa solids), coarsely chopped

For the chocolate glaze

2 tbsp golden syrup

2 tbsp water

55g (2oz) caster sugar

85g (3oz) dark chocolate (minimum 70% cocoa solids)

One 25cm (10in) Bundt pan or ring mould

1. To make the cake, preheat the oven to 175°C (350°F), Gas mark 4. Grease the Bundt pan or ring mould with butter and dust with flour and set aside.

2. In a bowl, sift together the flour, bicarbonate of soda, baking powder and salt. Set aside.

3. Using a freestanding electric mixer with the paddle attachment or a hand-held electric whisk, mix together the buttermilk, cocoa, mayonnaise, eggs, both sugars and vanilla. Mix until smooth. Fold in the dry ingredients and chocolate by hand and make sure everything is well mixed.

4. Pour and scrape the batter into the prepared mould and bake for 45–50 minutes. When the cake bounces back when lightly touched, remove from the oven and leave in the mould to cool for about 20 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely.