The Antiquities of Constantinople
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Chap. IV.
Of the present Figure, Compass, Length and Breadth of Constantinople
THE Figure of Constantinople is triangular, the Base of which is that Part of it which lies Westward: The top Angle points to the East, where the Peninsula begins. But both the Sides of this Triangle are not equal; for that Side which lies westward winds round the Angle of the Bay in the Figure of a Half-Moon. At a great Distance from thence, it winds about again from North to South. But the South Side of this Triangle veers about to such a Breadth, that if you should draw a strait Line from one Angle of it to the other, it would cut off a Creek, which, in the Middle of it, is at least a quarter of a Mile over. But that Side which faces the North, and is call’d Ceras, the Bay or Horn, should you draw a strait Line over it from one Angle to another, it would cut off not only the whole Bay, but also a part of Galata. For this Side inflects inwards in such a manner, that from each Point it circulates in the Form of a Bow, having two smaller Windings of the same Figure in the Middle of it, but lies inwardly into the Continent so far, that the two Horns or Ends of the Bow, which includes them, no ways intercept the Prospect of the Angles of the larger Arch. ’Tis upon this Account that Constantinople may rather seem to be of a triarcular, than a triangular Figure. For right Angles never project beyond their Sides, nor do they inflect inwards. But all semicircular Figures are in a manner both convex and concave also. So that if these three Angles, so far as they project beyond the main Body of the City, were divided from it, Constantinople would form a square oblong Figure, little more than a Mile broad, and almost three times as long. But be that as it will, all are of Opinion, that this City ought to be look’d upon to be of a triangular Figure, because it has three Sides; one of which that faces the Propontis, and the other on the side of the Thracian Continent, are of an equal Length; the third, adjoining to the Bay, is about a Mile shorter than the other two. This City is computed to be near thirteen Miles in Compass, although Laonicus Chalcondylus, in his History of the Ottomans, assures us, that Constantinople contain’d in Compass an hundred and eleven Furlongs; the Length of it, extending itself over the Promontory with six Hills, is no more than thirty Furlongs; but if the Figure of it was an equilateral Triangle, it would not be much above nine Miles in Circumference; and could we suppose its hilly Situation to be widen’d into one large Plain, yet then it would not be so large in Compass as the Inhabitants generally reckon it, viz. eighteen Miles. It is observable, that Constantinople does not contain more Bays of Building, as it is situate upon Hills, than it would if it were built upon a Plain; because you cannot so conveniently build upon a Declivity, as you can upon a Level. Nor does the Reason equally hold good, as to the Number of its Houses, and the Number of its Inhabitants. For Constantinople can contain more Men as it is seated upon Hills, than it could if it were seated on a Plain. The Breadth of this City varies in several Places. From the East to the Middle of it, ’tis at least a Mile in Breadth, but in no Place broader than a Mile and a half. It divides itself afterwards into two Branches, where ’tis almost as broad as ’tis long. I can compare it, as to its Figure, to nothing more properly than to an Eagle stretching out his Wings, and looking obliquely to the left, upon whose Beak stands the first Hill, where is the Grand Seignor’s Palace. In his Eye stands the Church of St. Sophia; on the lower part of the Head is the Hippodrom; upon his Neck are the second and third Hills, and the remaining part of the City fill up his Wings, and his whole Body.
Chap. V.
A general Description of Constantinople
Constantinople takes up in Compass the whole Peninsula, which contains seven Hills, of which the eastern Angle of the City includes one, having its Rise at the Promontory, which Pliny calls Chrysoceras, and Dionysius a Byzantian, Bosporium. The first Hill is divided from the second by a broad Valley; the Promontory of Bosporium contains the other six, extending itself from the Entrance of the Peninsula on the East, full West with a continued Ridge, but somewhat convex’d, and hangs over the Bay. Six Hills and five Valleys shoot from the right Side of it, and ’tis divided only by the third and fifth Valleys on the left Side of it, which is all upon the Descent, and has only some small Hills and Vales, which are more steep than the Hills themselves. It has also two Windings which take their Rise from the Top of the first Hill, from whence it ascends by Degrees almost to another Winding, which begins from the Top of the third Hill, where sinking into a gentle Descent, it admits the Valley, which lies between the third and the fourth Hill. From thence it rises again with a moderate Ascent, and continues upon a Level westward almost to the Urbicion, where it rises again. The Plains adjoining to the Promontory differ as to their Level. Those that divide the Promontory at the Top, and those at the Foot of it, are very uneven in many Places. The Plain at the Top of the first Hill is seven hundred Paces in Length, and two hundred in Breadth. Shooting hence, it rises almost insensibly to the Top of the second Hill, where ’tis five hundred Paces in Breadth, and is all upon the Descent to the Top of that Hill, where the second Valley, which is also shelving and very narrow, takes its Rise. On the third Hill the Plain is above six hundred Paces in Breadth, but somewhat more upon the Level at the Entrance of the third Valley, which is six hundred Paces broad. From hence you rise by a gentle Ascent to the Plain on the Top of the fourth Hill, which is not above two hundred Paces wide. On the fifth Hill it dilates itself to the Breadth of seven hundred Paces. On the Hill, from whence the fifth Valley takes its Rise, ’tis more narrow; and on the sixth Hill ’tis a little upon the Ascent again. As to the Plain, which extends itself between the Sea and the Bottom of the Promontory, that also is not so even in some Places as it is in others; for it is narrower under the Hills, in the Vales ’tis half as wide again. For winding itself from the Promontory, where it begins, over three Valleys, it is widen’d at that Distance into the Breadth of a thousand Paces, though at the Foot of the Hills it is not above an Acre, or a hundred and twenty Foot in Breadth, except at the Bottom of the third and fifth Hills, where ’tis very narrow, but extends itself over the fourth Valley both in Length and Breadth to a great Degree. At the Foot of the sixth Hill it contracts itself again, except at the Foot of two lesser Hills, situated behind the first and second Hills; one of which projects almost to the Sea, the other is at no great Distance from it. But to describe Constantinople in a more easy and comprehensive Manner, I will give the Reader a particular Account of all its Hills and Vales, which indeed make a very lovely and agreeable Prospect. For the six Hills which shoot from the Promontory, (and which for their Likeness you might call Brothers) stand in so regular an Order, that neither of them intercepts the Prospect of the other; so that as you sail up the Bay, you see them all hanging over it in such a manner, that quite round the City you see before you both Sides of every one of them. The first of these Hills jets out to the East, and bounds the Bay; the second and third lie more inward to the South; the others lie more open to the North, so that at one View you have a full Prospect of them. The first lies lower than the second; the second than the third; the fourth, fifth and sixth are in some Places higher, in others somewhat lower than the third, which you may discover by the Level of the Aqueduct. That the first Hill is lower than the third and fourth, may be discover’d by the Tower which supports the Aqueduct, by which the Water is raised into the Air above fifty Foot high. To make this more intelligible, I will divide the City, as to the Length of it, from the Land’s Point on the Shore of the Bosporus, to the Walls on the Neck of the Isthmus, and consider the Breadth of it, as it widens from the Propontis to the Bay called Ceras. The Reason why I divide the City, as to its Breadth, into six Parts, is the natural Situation of the Promontory, which itself is divided into six Hills, with Valleys running between them. It was no great Difficulty to distinguish the Roman Hills, because they were entirely disjoin’d by Valleys; but ’tis not so easy to distinguish those of Constantinople, because they are conjoin’d at Top; and besides, the Backs of them do not project in so mountainous a manner as they do in the Front; so that I cannot better describe them, than by calling them a continued Ridge of Hills, divided each of them with Valleys. And therefore to proceed regularly, I shall first give the Reader a Description of the right Side of the Promontory, with its Hills and Vales, and then take Notice of the left Side of it, which stands behind them.
Chap. VI.
Of the Situation of all the Parts of the City describ’d
THE first Part of the Breadth of the Promontory is the Front of it, which opening to the Distance of a thousand Paces Eastwards adjoins to the Chaps of the Bosporus. For this Sea winds round the Back of the Promontory in such a Manner, that from the Point where the Bosporus is divided, to the Bay called Ceras, and the Land’s Point of that Sea, it extends itself from North to South to the Distance of fourteen Furlongs; and from thence to a farther Distance of four Furlongs, it winds round from the South-east to the South-South-west, even to the Mouth of the Propontis, which joining with the Bosporus, winds round the City to South-west, to the Distance of two Miles more. This Side of the Hill is bounded at the Bottom of it with a Plain of the same Breadth with itself, which is two hundred Paces. There rise upon the Plain some lesser Hills, which are not above four hundred Paces in Height. On the Top of the left Side of these Hills stands the Hippodrom; on the right Side, which faces the South-west, is the Palace of the Grand Seignor. I might not improperly call it the Front of the Promontory, as being almost of an equal Ascent in all its Parts, having a Plain running along it, of an equal Length with itself; besides, it adjoins to the first Hill: I say, for these Reasons I might call it a part of the first Hill; but to understand it more distinctly, I shall treat of it by itself.
Chap. VII.
Of the first Hill, of the Palace of the Grand Seignor, of the Church of St. Sophia, and the Hippodrom
THE first Hill, extending itself from the South-east to the South-west, opens at the Entrance of it to the Breadth of thirty Paces; from thence it widens gradually, and so on, till at last ’tis almost as broad as ’tis long. It rises at the Nook of the Isthmus, which joins the Peninsula to the Continent. It projects itself in the Form of a Cymetar, or a Hawk’s Beak, and almost divides the Straits of the Bosporus, and the Bay called Ceras. The whole Hill projects beyond the others almost to the Mouth of the Bay. ’Tis all upon a Descent, except the Top of it, where there’s a Plain which joins to the Plain of the Promontory. The lesser Eminences which stand upon it, and which face the East and the North, have a moderate Descent, others of them are more steep, so that in some Places you are obliged to climb them by Steps, but the tallest of them is not above four hundred Paces high. The Plain, at the Foot of this Hill, is very different. The Eastern Part of it is much widen’d by the Sea Shore, which jets out in a semicircular Manner. The Breadth of the South-east and northern Part of it is encreased by the Valley, which divides the first from the second Hill. The Plain on the Top of the Hill is about seven hundred Paces in Length. This Hill is not only fortified by Nature, as being encompassed on the East by the Bosporus, on the North by the Bay of Ceras, and on the West by a cool Valley; but ’tis also inclosed within the Walls of the Seraglio, which are guarded with numberless Ramparts and Towers, which are equal in Strength to the Walls of the City. Towards the Foot of the Hill, and the Plain near the Sea, lie the Gardens of the Grand Seignor. The Imperial Palace, which is partly situate on the Top of the Hill, and partly on the Eminences below it, affords almost an unmeasurable Prospect, both by Sea and Land. In this Plain there are two Imperial Areas or Courts; the first of these Courts is seven hundred Paces long, and two hundred broad. You pass through this into another inner Court, which is a Quadrangle two hundred Paces long, and has round it a magnificent Portico, supported with a Multitude of fine Marble Pillars curiously variegated. In the Middle of the Court there’s a fine shady Walk of Plane and Cypress-Trees for the Lawyers, and in the North Angle of the City is the Forum Judiciale, which the Ottomans call their Divan. On the South-east Side of a large Court stands the magnificent and stately Palace of the Grand Seignor, on the North Side of which are built many Imperial Bagnio’s, and Kitchens with eight arch’d Roofs, rising like a Cupola, in an hemispherical Manner; each of these Cupola’s representing the Figure of a little House, is nothing else but a Chimney with Windows, light at Top, made in the Likeness of a Lantern. There is a two-leav’d Iron Gate which lets you into the first Court, the Leaves of it, when opened, stand at twenty Paces Distance. The Porters or Capoochees stand always upon Duty at these Gates. Just above them the Hill rises up to a smooth Level with the Ridge of the Promontory. The Porch or Gate-house is lined on each Side with glittering Armour, and shines, as do also the Jambs of the Gate with rich Marble. Over the Porch there rises a square Building cover’d with Lead, as are all the other Edifices of the Palace. There’s a Passage out of the first Court through another two-leav’d Gate into the second inner Court. This is the Station of the Drudging Porters. The Gate-house here also blazes with refulgent Arms. This Gate, without side of it, has nothing like a Porch, though within side it has. ’Tis supported with ten Pillars of different Kinds of Marble; the Roof of it proudly glitters with Gold, and is beautify’d with the most rich and lively Colours of Persian Work. At the third Gate, where the Entrance opens into the Seraglio, there are other Porters or Capoochees attending. These are under the Command of the Capoochee-Basha, or Captain of the Porters, who is also Chamberlain to the Grand Seignor. No body is suffer’d to enter the Palace without his Permission, but the Servants and Officers of the Houshold, unless it be his Noblemen, who while he is sitting near the Door of the Seraglio, may freely enter to pay their Homage to him. All Ambassadors, when introduced into his Presence, are allow’d to kiss his Hand, who receives them sitting upon a low Couch, but curiously embroider’d, in a little Apartment built with Marble, adorn’d with Gold and Silver, and sparkling with Diamonds and precious Stones. This Room of State is incircled with a Portico, which is supported with Pillars of the finest Marble, the Capitals and Pedestals of which are all gilded. Besides these I have mention’d, there are many other Gates round the Seraglio, through which none are admitted, but such as are in the highest Favour with the Emperour. If I mistake not, I counted twelve, which were all Iron-work; seven of them were near the City; two of them, through which they carried their Hay to the Seraglio, were near the Sea; on the Sea Side there were five more: The first of these stands to the North of the Seraglio, towards the Bay; the second stands upon the Ridge of a Hill: ’Tis very large, has a Porch with an arch’d Roof before it, is gilded, and adorn’d in a surprizing manner with Persian Paintings, supported with Pillars of Ophitick Marble, and looks into the Bosporus. At some Distance Eastward there is another Gate facing Chalcedon. Just before it the Vessels are moor’d, in which the Grand Seignor sails to some distant Shore, when he goes a hunting, or is inclined to divert himself in his Gardens. The fourth Gate stands South-east near the Ruins of a Christian Church, some Tokens of which are still remaining in a Wall, to which the Greeks to this Day, by their frequent Visits, continue to pay a kind of devotional Reverence. Beyond this there is a fifth Port or Gate, where is built a Room, though it is only rafter’d, whence you may have the Diversion of seeing the Fish catch’d; as it is also a kind of Repository, where the Grand Seignor’s Fishermen lay up their Tackle. I would observe by the By, that though all the Hills of Constantinople afford a very pleasing Prospect, yet there is none which entertains you with such peculiar Delectation as the first Hill, where the Sultan lives in a licentious and luxurious manner. He has before him, whether he is walking in his Gardens, or in his Chambers of the Seraglio, a full View of the Bosporus and both its Shores, which are green, and flourishing with Woods belonging to the neighbouring Farms. On the right Hand he beholds a spacious Field of Chalcedon, cover’d with his own Gardens; he sees the Propontis, Islands without Number, and the woody Mountains of Asia. If he looks at an immense Distance, behind him he beholds the Olympus always cloath’d in Snow. If he takes a shorter Prospect, he views before him the Wonders of his own City, the Church of St. Sophia and the Hippodrom. If he casts his Eyes to the left Hand, he beholds the seven Hills on which the City is seated, and more remotely, he looks round the unmeasurable spacious Fields of Thracia. If he extends his Prospect over the Seas, he views a moving Scene of Ships passing and repassing before him; some sailing from the Hellespont, or the Black Sea, others again coming into his Port from all the Coasts of the Propontis, while other Vessels at the same time are sailing up and down the Bay of Ceras, where there are also abundance of Wherries and small Boats always oaring from Side to Side. And if he looks below him, he has the agreeable Pleasure of beholding the three Sides of the first Hill, dressed with Trees, Flowers and Plants of all Kinds. But he has not only a fine Prospect from the Palace, but is entertain’d with several delightful Visto’s from the Top of the Gardens rising on the Hills. If he has an Inclination to take a View of his Seraglio, from that Point of Land which projects so far into the Sea, and which, as I observ’d, divided the Bosporus; here he beholds it in all its Glory, strengthen’d with large Pillars of Marble, and fann’d with gentle refreshing Breezes, where he often sits with small Osier Lattices before him; so that, like another Gyges, he discerns all that sail near him, though he himself is visible to none: And if at any time he is weary of the Company of his Domesticks, he can divert himself with the ridiculous Drollery of the Watermen, when fixing their Oars and Boat-poles to the Shore, they tug against the violent Stream of the Bosporus, which is much more rapid than the Rhone. Without the Seraglio stands the Church of St. Sophia, which is about seventy Paces distant from the Gate of the first Court. ’Tis situate on the Brow of the first Hill, upon an Eminence that hangs over the Garden of the first Valley: From thence you ascend by Stone Steps to the Gate of the Seraglio, and the Church of St. Sophia, which from the South-east falls with so easy a Descent, that it almost imperceptibly terminates on a Plain both above and below it. In short, all the Descents from the Imperial Palace to the Hippodrom, are moderate and gentle. South-west of the Church of St. Sophia, a Plain extends itself to the End of the Hippodrom, which is above seven hundred Paces long. The Hippodrom is more than two Furlongs in Length, and one Furlong in Breadth. It stands upon a perfect Level; but this is more to be ascribed to Industry, than its natural Situation. The Middle Part of it, stretching as far as the Propontis, on three Sides of it, is a shelving Ground. On the East it falls with a small Declivity, on the West ’tis more upon the Descent, on the Side of the Propontis ’tis directly perpendicular to the Depth, more or less, of fifty Foot. The whole Front of the Hippodrom is built upon Arches, (which makes it stand upon a Level) and entertains the Spectator with a very delectable Prospect of the Propontis, so that you may not only see Men sailing to and fro before you, but may also see the Dolphins frequently tumbling about the Waters. The Steps on the North Side of the Hippodrom, which remained there but a few Years since, were demolished by Abraham the Bassa, and were used in building his own House. Between the Hippodrom and the Propontis there stretches a Plain, which widens to the Breadth of four hundred Paces, where the Churches of Bacchus and Sergius anciently stood; of both which I shall take Notice in the following History. Below the Hippodrom, to the South, is the Gate call’d Porta Leonis, which is situate without the City, upon the Ruins of the Palace of Leo Macellus; the Windows of which, of antique Workmanship, are still remaining in the Walls. The Palace was built upon a Hill adjoining to the Sea, which was about a hundred Paces high.
Chap. VIII.
Of the first Valley
FROM the uppermost Plain of the Promontory, on which, as I observed, stood the Church of St. Sophia and the Hippodrom, by an easy Ascent of a thousand Paces, you climb the Ridge of the second Hill up to the Porphyry Pillar, erected on the Top of the second Hill, which is bounded on the East by the first Valley, which divides the first from the second Hill. It rises at the Plain of St. Sophia, and extends itself from South to North. This Valley represents exactly the Figure of the Letter V; one of whose Sides extends itself full East, the other North. Thro’ the Middle of it runs the Wall, which divides the Grand Seignor’s Palace from the rest of the City. The lowermost Plain of the Promontory extends itself in Length and Breadth so far into this Valley, that from the Bay to the Church of St. Sophia, you may walk a thousand Paces almost upon the Level. From the Entrance of it on the Sea Side, ’tis all a plain Ground to the Length of five hundred Paces; afterwards winding itself into this Vale, it rises with a small Ascent, which is more easily perceivable by a gentle Fall of the Water, than by the Eye or Foot. At the Beginning of it ’tis somewhat wide, afterwards ’tis narrower, and at the End of it ’tis straighten’d into two lesser Valleys; one of which, near to the Church of St. Sophia, is four hundred Paces long. It rises gradually, and is so very narrow, that the publick Way takes up the whole Breadth of it.
Chap. IX.
Of the second Hill
THE Ridge of the Promontory rising a little higher, and the two Valleys adjoining to it, make the second Hill. The first Valley divides, at East, the first from the second Hill; the other Valley, Westward, divides the second from the third. On the North ’tis bounded by a Plain on the Sea Shore. The Ridge of the Promontory extends from South to North to the Distance of one thousand Paces in Length, and four hundred in Breadth. The different Breadth of the Vales varies the Breadth of the whole Hill. For where the Valleys which bound the Sides of it at the Top are more contracted, the Hill widens, and at the Foot of the Hill, where they are much wider, the Hill is less. The lesser Hills which stand upon it, extend its Length, two of which hang over the Bay. Its Height varies according to the different Height of the three Clifts, or small Hills which rise upon it. For the Clift lying to the South-east, rises moderately, from the lowest part of the Valley to the Top of the Hill, to the Height of about a thousand Paces; afterwards, as the Valley widens, it grows less, and is rendered more steep by two small Valleys (branching out of the great Valley) which indeed are somewhat upon the Descent, but not above a hundred Paces high. The different Heights of the Clifts which hang over the Bay, may be best discover’d by considering the different Heights of the five publick Ways, which reach from the Ridge to the Foot of the Hill. The first of these Ways rises to the Height of five hundred Paces, two hundred of which from the Foot of the Hill are very easy of Ascent, the other three hundred are very steep. The second Road is six hundred Paces high, a hundred of which rise through the lowest of the small Valleys by a gentle Ascent, the next hundred are almost perpendicular, so that you must climb them by Steps; the other four hundred rise gradually to the Top of the Hill, which is sixty Paces in Breadth. This Hill, on the Ridge of it, shoots Southward to the Distance of a hundred and fifty Paces, quite from the Church of St. Sophia to the Porphyry Pillar. The other three publick Ways, from the Bottom of the Hill, are for the first hundred Paces upon a gentle Rise, the next two hundred are a mighty Declivity, so that you are obliged to ascend them by Windings and Turnings; the remaining five hundred, up to the Plain upon the Hill, rise moderately. I would observe farther, that on the Side of the Clifts which project over the Bay, two small Hills jetted out, one to the North, and the other to the East; both which uniting form a little Valley, which is bounded on the East by a Hill which rises eighty Paces in Height, and has in some Places very agreeable Descents. This is the Reason that most part of the lesser Clifts, which bear upon this Hill, stand to the East, and that the Side of the Hill which looks Westward, is in some Parts of it more shelving than in other: For its Eminencies falling into the lowest Plain in the Valley, to the Length of three hundred Paces, from the Foot of the Hill up to the Middle of it, are almost perpendicular, and from the Middle to the Top they slope but little. As for those Hills which project over the Head of the Valley, they are not above two hundred Paces high, often of a different Ascent: For as the Valley rises, the Clifts seem lower. Indeed all the lesser Clifts of this Hill have a double Descent; one length-ways, and the other broad-ways: For those of them which stand East and West are seated in such a manner, that they also lye to the North. In short, all the Sides of this Hill, in the most steep Ascents of them, are not above a Furlong in Height; in other Places they fall into a moderate Declivity, and at the Bottom of them they gradually enlarge themselves into a Plain. The upper Clifts at the Top of them are half shelving, and half upon the Plain. The Plain adjoining to the Sea, and dividing the Hill from the Bay, spreads itself into a Latitude of three hundred Paces, but immediately widens again into a Breadth of five hundred Paces, and so visibly enlarges itself, the farther it extends itself into the Valleys.