Expedition into Central Australia

MY LORD,

Although the services recorded in the following pages, which your Lordship permits me to dedicate to you, have not resulted in the discovery of any country immediately available for the purposes of colonization, I would yet venture to hope that they have not been fruitlessly undertaken, but that, as on the occasion of my voyage down the Murray River, they will be the precursors of future advantage to my country and to the Australian colonies.

Under present disappointment it must be as gratifying to those who participated in my labours, as it is to myself to know that they are not the less appreciated by your Lordship, because they were expended in a desert.

I can only assure your Lordship, that it has been my desire to give a faithful description of the country that has been explored, and of the difficulties attending the task; nor can I refuse myself the anticipation that the perusal of these volumes will excite your Lordship's interest and sympathy. I have the honour to be,

My Lord,

Your Lordship's

Most obedient humble servant,

CHARLES STURT.

London, November 21,1848.

NOTICE.

It might have been expected that many specimens, both of Botany and Ornithology, would have been collected during such an Expedition as that which the present narrative describes, but the contrary happened to be the case.

I am proud in having to record the name of my esteemed friend, Mr. Brown, the companion of Flinders, and the learned author of the "Prodromus Novae Hollandiae," to whose kindness I am indebted for the Botanical Remarks in the Appendix.

To my warm-hearted friend, Mr. Gould, whose splendid works are before the Public, and whose ardent pursuits in furtherance of his ambition, I have personally witnessed, I owe the more perfect form in which my ornithological notice appears.

I have likewise to acknowledge, with very sincere feelings, the assistance I have received from Mr. Arrowsmith, in the construction of my Map, to whose anxious desire to ensure correctness and professional talent I am very greatly indebted.

I hope the gentlemen whose names I have mentioned will accept my best thanks for the assistance they have afforded me in my humble labours. It is not the least of the gratifications enjoyed by those who are employed on services similar to which I have been engaged, to be brought more immediately in connection with such men.

London, November 21, 1848.

Chaining over the Sandhills to Lake Torrens

CONTENTS

VOLUME I.

CHAPTER I

CHARACTER OF THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT OF ITS RIVERS

PECULIARITY OF THE DARLING

SUDDEN FLOODS TO WHICH IT IS SUBJECT

CHARACTER OF THE MURRAY

ITS PERIODICAL RISE

BOUNTY OF PROVIDENCE

GEOLOGICAL POSITION OF THE TWO RIVERS

OBSERVATIONS

RESULTS

SIR THOMAS MITCHELL'S JOURNEY TO THE DARLING

ITS JUNCTION WITH THE MURRAY

ANECDOTE OF MR. SHANNON

CAPTAIN GREY'S EXPEDITION

CAPTAIN STURT'S JOURNEY

MR. EYRE'S SECOND EXPEDITION

VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE

MR. OXLEY'S OPINIONS

STATE OF THE INTERIOR IN 1828

CHARACTER OF ITS PLAINS AND RIVERS

JUNCTION OF THE DARLING

FOSSIL BED OF THE MURRAY

FORMER STATE OF THE CONTINENT

THEORY OF THE INTERIOR.

CHAPTER II

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE

ARRIVAL AT MOORUNDI

NATIVE GUIDES

NAMES OF THE PARTY

SIR JOHN BARROW'S MINUTE REPORTS OF LAIDLEY'S PONDS

CLIMATE OF THE MURRAY

PROGRESS UP THE RIVER

ARRIVAL AT LAKE BONNEY

GRASSY PLAINS

CAMBOLI'S HOME

TRAGICAL EVENTS IN THAT NEIGHBOURHOOD

PULCANTI

ARRIVAL AT THE RUFUS

VISIT TO THE NATIVE FAMILIES

RETURN OF MR. EYRE TO MOORUNDI

DEPARTURE OF MR. BROWNE TO THE EASTWARD.

CHAPTER III

MR. BROWNE'S RETURN

HIS ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRY

CHANGE OF SCENE

CONTINUED RAIN

TOONDA JOINS THE PARTY

STORY OF THE MASSACRE

LEAVE LAKE VICTORIA

ACCIDENT TO FLOOD

TURN NORTHWARDS

CROSS TO THE DARLING

MEET NATIVES

TOONDA'S HAUGHTY MANNER

NADBUCK'S CUNNING

ABUNDANCE OF FEED

SUDDEN FLOODS

BAD COUNTRY

ARRIVAL AT WILLIORARA

CONSEQUENT DISAPPOINTMENT

PERPLEXITY

MR. POOLE GOES TO THE RANGES

MR. BROWNE'S RETURN

FOOD OF THE NATIVES

POSITION OF WILLIORARA.

CHAPTER IV

TOONDA'S TRIBE

DISPOSITION OF THE NATIVES

ARRIVAL OF CAMBOLI

HIS ENERGY OF CHARACTER

MR. POOLE'S RETURN

LEAVE THE DARLING

REMARKS ON THAT RIVER

CAWNDILLA

THE OLD BOOCOLO

LEAVE THE CAMP FOR THE HILLS

REACH A CREEK

WELLS

TOPAR'S MISCONDUCT

ASCEND THE RANGES

RETURN HOMEWARDS

EAVE CAWNDILLA WITH A PARTY

REACH PARNARI

MOVE TO THE HILLS

JOURNEY TO N. WEST

HEAVY RAINS

RETURN TO CAMP

MR. POOLE LEAVES

LEAVE THE RANGES

DESCENT TO THE PLAINS

MR. POOLE'S RETURN

HIS REPORT

FLOOD'S CREEK

AQUATIC BIRDS

RANGES DIMINISH IN HEIGHT.

CHAPTER V

NATIVE WOMEN

SUDDEN SQUALL

JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD

VIEW FROM MOUNT LYELL

INCREASED TEMPERATURE

MR. POOLE'S RETURN

HIS REPORT

LEAVE FLOOD'S CREEK

ENTANGLED IN THE PINE FOREST

DRIVE THE CATTLE TO WATER

EXTRICATE THE PARTY

STATE OF THE MEN

MR. POOLE AND MR. BROWNE LEAVE THE CAMP

PROCEED NORTHWARDS

CAPT. STURT LEAVES FOR THE NORTH

RAPID DISAPPEARANCE OF WATER

MUDDY CREEK

GEOLOGICAL FORMATION

GYPSUM

PUSH ON TO THE RANGES

RETURN TO THE CREEK

AGAIN ASCEND THE RANGES

FIND WATER BEYOND THEM

PROCEED TO THE W.N.W.

RETURN TO THE RANGES

ANTS AND FLIES

TURN TO THE EASTWARD

NO WATER

RETURN TO THE CAMP

MR. POOLE FINDS WATER

MACK'S ADVENTURE WITH THE NATIVES

MOVE THE CAMP.

CHAPTER VI

THE DEPOT

FURTHER PROGRESS CHECKED

CHARACTER OF THE RANGES

JOURNEY TO THE NORTH-EAST

RETURN

JOURNEY TO THE WEST

RETURN

AGAIN PROCEED TO THE NORTH

INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES

ARRIVE AT THE FARTHEST WATER

THE PARTY SEPARATES

PROGRESS NORTHWARDS

CONTINUE TO ADVANCE

SUFFERINGS OF THE HORSE

CROSS THE 28TH PARALLEL

REJOIN MR. STUART

JOURNEY TO THE WESTWARD

CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY

FIND TWO PONDS OF WATER

THE GRASSY PARK

RETURN TO THE RANGE

EXCESSIVE HEAT

A SINGULAR GEOLOGICAL FEATURE

REGAIN THE DEPOT.

CHAPTER VII

MIGRATION OF THE BIRDS

JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD

FLOODED PLAINS

NATIVE FAMILY

PROCEED SOUTH, BUT FIND NO WATER

AGAIN TURN EASTWARD

STERILE COUNTRY

SALT LAGOON

DISTANT HILLS TO THE EAST

RETURN TO THE CAMP

INTENSE HEAT

OFFICERS ATTACKED BY SCURVY

JOURNEY TO THE WEST

NO WATER

FORCED TO RETURN

ILLNESS OF MR. POOLE

VISITED BY A NATIVE

SECOND JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD

STORY OF THE NATIVE

KITES AND CROWS

ERECT A PYRAMID ON MOUNT POOLE

PREPARATIONS FOR A MOVE

INDICATIONS OF RAIN

INTENSE ANXIETY

HEAVY RAIN

MR. POOLE LEAVES WITH THE HOME RETURNING PARTY

BREAK UP THE DEPOT

MR. POOLE'S SUDDEN DEATH

HIS FUNERAL

PROGRESS

WESTWARD

THE JERBOA

ESTABLISHMENT OF SECOND DEPOT

NATIVE GLUTTONY

DISTANT MOUNTAINS SEEN

REACH LAKE TORRENS

EXAMINATION OF THE COUNTRY N.W. OF IT

RETURN TO THE DEPOT

VISITED BY NATIVES

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE AGAIN INTO THE NORTH-WEST INTERIOR.

CHAPTER VIII

LEAVE THE DEPOT FOR THE NORTH-WEST

SCARCITY OF WATER

FOSSIL LIMESTONE

ARRIVE AT THE FIRST CREEK

EXTENSIVE PLAINS

SUCCESSION OF CREEKS

FLOODED CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY

POND WITH FISH

STERILE COUNTRY

GRASSY PLAINS

INTREPID NATIVE

COUNTRY APPARENTLY IMPROVES

DISAPPOINTMENTS

WATER FOUND

APPEARANCE OF THE STONY DESERT

NIGHT THEREON

THE EARTHY PLAIN

HILLS RAISED BY REFRACTION

RECOMMENCEMENT OF THE SAND RIDGES

THEIR UNDEVIATING REGULARITY

CONJECTURES AS TO THE DESERT

RELATIVE POSITION OF LAKE TORRENS

CONCLUDING REMARKS.

CHAPTER IX

FLOOD'S QUICK SIGHT

FOREST FULL OF BIRDS

NATIVE WELL

BIRDS COLLECT TO DRINK

DANGEROUS PLAIN

FLOOD'S HORSE LOST

SCARCITY OF WATER

TURN NORTHWARD

DISCOVER A LARGE CREEK

BRIGHT PROSPECTS

SUDDEN DISAPPOINTMENT

SALT LAGOON

SCARCITY OF WATER

SALT WATER CREEK

CHARACTER OF THE INTERIOR

FORCED TO TURN BACK

RISK OF ADVANCING

THE FURTHEST NORTH

RETURN TO AND EXAMINATION OF THE CREEK

PROCEED TO THE WESTWARD

DREADFUL COUNTRY

JOURNEY TO THE NORTH

AGAIN FORCED TO RETURN

NATIVES

STATION ON THE CREEK

CONCLUDING REMARKS.

PLATES TO VOLUME I.

Chaining over the Sandhills to Lake Torrens

Sketch of the Sturt's tracks and discoveries

Sunset on the Murray

Colonel Gawler's Camp on the Murray

Ana-branch of the Darling

Mus Conditor

Parnari

Lower part of the Rocky Glen

Geological formation of the Ranges

Part of the Northern Range

General appearance of the Northern Ranges at their termination

Native Village in the northern interior

The Depot Glen

Milvus Affinis

Water Hole

Red Hill, or Mount Poole

Mr. Poole's Grave

Lake Torrens

Pond with Fish

Native Well

Near the camp at Cawndilla

Mr. Arrowsmith, has prepared a large Map of Captain Sturt's routes into the centre of Australia, from the original protractions and other official documents, now in his hands.

On this Map are delineated the whole of the details resulting from his numerous route,--the dates marking his daily progress--the description of the country--its dip-the depressed Stony Desert, which is probably the great northern prolongation of the Torrens Basin of Mr. Eyre,--etc. etc. etc.

This Map in two sheets may be had in a cover, price 7 shillings.

VOLUME II.

CHAPTER II/I

REFLECTIONS ON OUR DIFFICULTIES

COMMENCE THE RETREAT

EYRE'S CREEK

PASS THE NATIVE WELL

RECROSS THE STONY DESERT

FIND ANOTHER WELL WITHOUT WATER

NATIVES

SUCCESSFUL FISHING

VALUE OF SHEEP

DECIDE ON A RETREAT

PROPOSE THAT MR. BROWNE SHOULD LEAVE

HIS REFUSAL TO DESERT THE PARTY

MR. BROWNE'S DECISION

PREPARE TO LEAVE THE CAMP

REMARKS ON THE CLIMATE

AGAIN LEAVE THE DEPOT

SINGULAR EXPLOSION

DISCOVER A LARGE CREEK

PROCEED TO THE NORTH

RECURRENCE OF SAND RIDGES

SALT

WATER LAKE

AGAIN STRIKE THE STONY DESERT

ATTEMPT TO CROSS IT.

CHAPTER II/II

THE HORSES

ASCEND THE HILLS

IRRESOLUTION AND RETREAT

HORSES REDUCED TO GREAT WANT

UNEXPECTED RELIEF

TRY THE DESERT TO THE N.E.

FIND WATER IN OUR LAST WELL

REACH THE CREEK

PROCEED TO THE EASTWARD

PLAGUE OF FLIES AND ANTS

SURPRISE AN OLD MAN

SEA-GULLS AND PELICANS

FISH

POOL OF BRINE

MEET NATIVES

TURN TO THE N.E.

COOPER'S CREEK TRIBE, THEIR KINDNESS AND APPEARANCE

ATTEMPT TO CROSS THE PLAINS

TURN BACK

PROCEED TO THE NORTHWARD

EFFECTS OF REFRACTION

FIND NATIVES AT OUR OLD CAMP AND THE STORES UNTOUCHED

COOPER'S CREEK, ITS GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION.

CHAPTER II/III

CONTINUED DROUGHT

TERRIFIC EFFECT OF HOT WIND

THERMOMETER BURSTS

DEATH OF POOR BAWLEY

FIND THE STOCKADE DESERTED

LEAVE FORT GREY FOR THE DEPOT

DIFFERENCE OF SEASONS

MIGRATION OF BIRDS

HOT WINDS

EMBARRASSING POSITION

MR. BROWNE STARTS FOR FLOOD'S CREEK

THREE BULLOCKS SHOT

COMMENCEMENT OF THE RETREAT

ARRIVAL AT FLOOD'S CREEK

STATE OF VEGETATION

EFFECTS OF SCURVY

ARRIVE AT ROCKY GLEN

COMPARISON OF NATIVE TRIBES

HALT AT CARNAPAGA

ARRIVAL AT CAWNDILLA

REMOVAL TO THE DARLING

LEAVE THE DARLING

STATE OF THE RIVER

OPPRESSIVE HEAT

VISITED BY NADBUCK

ARRIVAL AT MOORUNDI.

CHAPTER II/IV

REMARKS ON THE SEASON

DRY STATE OF THE ATMOSPHERE

THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS

WINDS IN THE INTERIOR

DIRECTION OF THE RANGES

GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS

NON-EXISTENCE OF ANY CENTRAL CHAIN

PROBABLE COURSE OF THE STONY DESERT

WHETHER CONNECTED WITH LAKE TORRENS

OPINIONS OF CAPTAIN FLINDERS

NO INFORMATION DERIVED FROM THE NATIVES

THE NATIVES

THEIR PERSONAL APPEARANCE

DISPROPORTION BETWEEN THE SEXES

THE WOMEN

CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES

THEIR HABITATIONS

FOOD

LANGUAGE

CONCLUSION.

AN ACCOUNT OF THE SEA COAST AND INTERIOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA;

WITH OBSERVATIONS ON VARIOUS SUBJECTS CONNECTED WITH ITS INTERESTS.

CHAPTER III/I

DUTIES OF AN EXPLORER

GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA

DESCRIPTION OF ITS COAST LINE

SEA MOUTH OF THE MURRAY

ENTERED BY MR. PULLEN

RISK OF THE ATTEMPT

BEACHING

ROSETTA HARBOUR

VICTOR HARBOUR

NEPEAN BAY

KANGAROO ISLAND

KINGSCOTE

CAPT. LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS FOR PORT ADELAIDE

PORT ADELAIDE

REMOVAL TO THE NORTH ARM

HARBOUR MASTER'S REPORT

YORKE'S PENINSULA

PORT LINCOLN

CAPT. LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS

BOSTON ISLAND

BOSTON BAY

COFFIN'S BAY

MR. CAMERON SENT ALONG THE COAST

HIS REPORT

POSITION OF PORT ADELAIDE.

CHAPTER III/II

PLAINS OF ADELAIDE

BRIDGES OVER THE TORRENS

SITE OF ADELAIDE

GOVERNMENT HOUSE BUILDINGS AND CHURCHES

SCHOOLS

POLICE

ROADS

THE GAWLER

BAROSSA RANGE

THE MURRAY BELT

MOORUNDI

NATIVES ON THE MURRAY

DISTANT STOCK STATIONS

MOUNT GAMBIER DISTRICT

ITS RICHNESS

ASCENT TO MOUNT LOFTY

MOUNT BARKER DISTRICT

SCENE IN HINDMARSH VALLEY

PROPORTION OF SOIL IN THE PROVINCE

PASTORAL AND AGRICULTURAL

PORT LINCOLN

CLIMATE OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA

RANGE OF THE THERMOMETER

SALUBRITY.

CHAPTER III/III

SEASONS

CAUSE WHY SOUTH AUSTRALIA HAS FINE GRAIN

EXTENT OF CULTIVATION

AMOUNT OF STOCK

THE BURRA-BURRA MINE

ITS MAGNITUDE

ABUNDANCE OF MINERALS

ABSENCE OF COAL

SMELTING

ORE

IMMENSE PROFITS OF THE BURRA-BURRA

EFFECT OF THE MINES ON THE LABOUR MARKET

RELUCTANCE OF THE LOWER ORDERS TO EMIGRATE

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CANADA AND AUSTRALIA

THE AUSTRALIAN COLONIES

STATE OF SOCIETY

THE MIDDLE CLASSES

THE SQUATTERS

THE GERMANS

THE NATIVES

AUTHOR'S INTERVIEWS WITH THEM

INSTANCES OF JUST FEELING

THEIR BAD QUALITIES

PERSONAL APPEARANCE

YOUNG SETTLERS ON THE MURRAY

CONCLUSION.

MR. KENNEDY'S SURVEY OF THE RIVER VICTORIA

APPENDIX

ANIMALS

BIRDS

NO. I. LIST OF SPECIMENS, AND THE NAMES OF THE VARIOUS ROCKS, COLLECTED DURING THE EXPEDITION

NO. II. LOCALITIES OF THE DIFFERENT GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, COLLECTED BY THE CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN EXPDITION

BOTANICAL APPENDIX, BY R. BROWN, ESQ., D.C.L., F.R.S., F.L.S, etc.

PLATES TO VOLUME II.

View from Stanley's Range

Native Grave

Cooper's Creek

Geophaps plumifera; Peristera histrionica

Strzelecki's Creek

Mr. Eyre's House at Moorundi

Piesse's Knob

King William Street, Adelaide

Port Adelaide

Mount Bryan

Murray River

Cinclosoma Cinnamoneus

Building, Adelaide

Gaol, Adelaide

ERRATA

Errata have been corrected. Original text has been placed in the eBook between braces{}.

Sketch of the Sturt's tracks and discoveries

VOLUME I

PREFACE.

The prominent part I have taken in the furtherance of Geographical Discovery on the Australian continent, and the attention, it will naturally be supposed, I have paid to the subject generally, will lead the reader perhaps to expect that I should, at the commencement of a work such as this, put him in possession of all the facts, with which I myself am acquainted, as to the character of those portions of it, which had been explored, before I commenced my recent labours. This may reasonably be expected from me by my readers, not only to enable them to follow me into the heartless desert from which, it may still be said, I have so lately returned, with that distinctness which can alone secure interest to my narrative; but, also, to judge whether the conclusions at which I arrived, and upon which I acted, were such as past experience ought to have led me to adopt.