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You will ask then why to play them? I answer: the fact is that gambit ideas are used much more often than the gambits themselves.
In gambits, tactical vision of the position is trained, the prerequisites for a possible combination are created, and, among other things, in gambits, it is most often possible to distinguish victims from yawns (because the opponent deliberately gives a pawn or a piece).
The list of gambits is much more than we have shown. I have named the most relevant and frequently used.
Try to prepare and play a gambit with your familiar chess player, and you will see how the opponent hesitated or even got into a stupor. And all because the opponent has to solve urgent problems from the very first moves. Especially if he hasn’t played the gambit yet.
The victim needs to make an instant decision about whether to accept or reject the offer, and what will happen next, and so on, and all of this takes time.
Mittelspiel
Mittelspiel (from German. Mittelspiel – the middle of the game) – the next stage of a chess game after the opening, in which, as a rule, the main events in the chess struggle – attack and defense, positional maneuvering, combinations and sacrifices develop. This stage of a chess game, which is characterized by a large number of figures and a variety of plans of the game. Sometimes a chess game passes this stage of the game and immediately goes to the endgame.
The Mittelspiel
Most chess players grasp how to act in the opening quite quickly. However, they do not have a clear idea of how to play in the middlegame. This is due to the fact that the middle of a chess game is the most difficult part, and it is impossible to rely on simple tips such as developing pieces and making a quick castling.
14 important principles of playing in the middlegame
1. The struggle for the center. Dominance in the center is beneficial
In chess, a player usually has an advantage if they control the center. Control of the center provides additional space, which in turn gives the pieces good positions. This fact is very important for both attack and defense. The struggle for the center is a crucial element in positional chess.

2. Centralize your pieces
Centralized pieces gain more importance in a chess game. This is especially true for knights, which control 8 squares in the center and only 2 on the edge of the board. In this sense, bishops are long-range pieces, but they can work on both flanks from the center. The same applies to queens.

White has brought 4 of its pieces to the center. In the next move, it is ready to move its knight to e5. This knight in the center cannot be tolerated, and if Black trades, the white bishop will move to e5, targeting the black king.
3. Use outposts for the knight
An outpost – is a field in the opponent’s camp that is not controlled by any of their pawns. This field becomes particularly valuable if it is occupied by a knight. Knights are especially strong near the center of the board and near the opponent’s king.
The knight on the outpost restricts the opponent’s pieces. You gain space, reduce the mobility of their pieces, and create new threats.

4. Avoid moving pawns in front of the king
As a rule, you should avoid moving pawns in front of the king. This weakens the king, opens up the diagonals and creates a lot of unprotected squares, because of this dangerous threats are created. Of course, there are exceptions to this rule, where the movement of pawns is favorable (for example, when the center is closed, but about this later).

5. Exchange pawns towards the center
In most cases, central pawns are stronger than flank pawns, because they can control the most important squares (d4-d5-e4-e5). On these squares, the pawns support their own pieces and push back the opponent’s pieces, capturing space. Therefore, it is almost always necessary to exchange your pawns towards the center.
Example:

Here, White needs to play fe in order to create a powerful center with the c-d-e pawns. Additionally, the f-file is opened for the rook, which was previously inactive (the rook on d1 is already in an active position and will help promote the pawns).
6. Avoid pawn weaknesses (we will discuss strong and weak pawns in more detail later)
When pawn weaknesses appear, a simple plan for attacking these weaknesses also appears. Pawn weaknesses become increasingly obvious as the game approaches the endgame. Why is this the case?
Because as pieces disappear from the board, it becomes increasingly difficult to compensate for damaged pawns (such as attacking the king or advancing a passed pawn). Conclusion: it is necessary to carefully approach every change in the pawn structure and avoid weakening it unless there are other benefits.

In this position, both sides have pawn weaknesses. White has doubled pawns on the kingside and a backward b2-pawn. Black has isolated pawns on the queenside.
7. Avoid weak squares in the position
Weak square (also weak point) is a square that cannot be defended or attacked by a pawn. Is one of the key concepts in chess strategy and tactics. Such squares become excellent outposts, so as soon as weak squares appear, immediately try to send your pieces there. It is especially dangerous to create weak squares in the center of the board or near the opponent’s king.

In the diagram, Black has a weak f6 square, which is located near the king’s position. The white knight can move there, followed by the pawn, creating checkmate threats with the support of the queen.
8. Block an isolated pawn with a knight
An isolated pawn can be both a weakness and a strength. It often supports pieces that attack the king. Additionally, an isolated pawn can move forward if its movement is not blocked. It is best to block a pawn with a knight, because the knight controls many squares in front of the pawn, and since the knight can jump over pieces, it can control squares by hiding behind the enemy pawn like a fortress and attacking from there. Additionally, the knight is not as valuable. Blocking with a queen is less effective, as the queen will have to retreat if attacked by any other piece.

And vice versa, if your isolated pawn is blocked, you need to destroy this piece (in this case, the knight). In the position, the knight on e3 blocks the black pawn and controls the important squares c4, g4, d5, and f5.
9. Occupy open verticals with rooks
Rooks like open and semi-open lines
Rooks usually become very strong when:
1. They are placed on open lines
2. They are connected
3. They are doubled
A rook protects its position from enemy pieces and can try to invade the opponent’s camp. If there are open or semi-open lines, they should be occupied with rooks as quickly as possible.
Then, you need to double the rooks along the open vertical.

White has captured the “c” rank, which gives them an advantage. Black cannot place their rook on c8 to prevent White’s invasion on c7. To counter the invasion threat, Black must play their knight on e8, which ties up their other pieces.
Bishops
10. The bishop should be placed in front of the pawn chain
The bishop is a long-range piece. In open positions, the bishop controls more squares than in closed positions, making it more powerful. To make the bishop stronger, it should be placed on the open diagonals in front of the pawn chain. Placing the bishop behind the pawn chain is undesirable, as it reduces its strength.

11. Try to keep a pair of bishops
This is called the advantage of two bishops. In open positions, a pair of bishops is a very formidable force. They control a large area, and their value is low, which allows them to attack the opponent’s heavy pieces.

White bishops literally shoot through the center and the kingside, unlike the black knights, which have almost no control. With the support of their bishops, White can start advancing their pawns, such as f4 and then f5 or e5.
12. Avoid exchanging the fianchettoed bishop with your king’s castling (it is a powerful defender).
As a rule, it is not profitable to exchange a royal fianchettoed bishop, as this seriously weakens the king’s defense and makes it more vulnerable. A fianchettoed bishop near the king is a strong defensive piece. It controls many important squares that immediately become weak if it is removed. Therefore, it is important to plan your game in a way that allows you to keep this bishop for as long as possible.

13. Creating weaknesses in the opponent’s camp
Manoeuvring (chess) – maneuvering pieces in order to create and use weaknesses in the opponent’s camp. A strategic technique. The term was proposed by Aron Nimzovich.

White played 1.Ng5 g6 2.Ne4

It turned out that Black had a whole set of weaknesses in his king’s defense.

1 … Nd4!
The idea of the diversionary sacrifice is clear: if 2. N:d4, then 2. … Qh2#. Threatens 2. … N:f3+ with checkmate. White has no choice.
2. hg N:f3+3. gf Qg3+4. Кh1 Q:h3+5. Kg1 R:f3
With the idea 6. … Rg3X.
6. Q:f3 Q:f3, and after 3 moves, White resigned.
14. Try to anticipate your opponent’s threats
Anticipating your opponent’s moves is a crucial skill, both in attack and defense. By understanding your opponent’s plan, you can eliminate or at least reduce their threats. If you identify these threats early enough, most losing combinations (such as forks, ties, and checkmate networks) can be avoided.
To do this, you need to learn how to count options.

For example: if I go Rd8+, will it be a checkmate? No, he will close with a rook, and then I will eat his rook, which one? He will also eat my rook, and then I will go Ld7 and attack the pawn. How will he defend it, will he go La8 or move the pawn forward? And so on.
EXAMPLES AND EXERCISES ON OPTIONS in separate applications *
Endgame
Endgame (from German. Endspiel – “final game”) is the final part of a chess game, after most of the pieces have been exchanged. As a rule, in the endgame, the main task is not to put a checkmate, but to lead a pawn to the queen, and thus achieve a decisive material advantage.
It is not always possible to draw a line between the middle game and the endgame. Usually, the game goes into an endgame when most of the pieces have been exchanged and there are no typical mid-game threats to the kings. However, the absence of queens on the board is not a mandatory feature of the “Queen Endings” endgame.
Usually, in the endgame, there is no longer a plan to prepare and carry out an attack on the king. Instead, the endgame often involves a strategic goal of promoting a pawn to queen in order to gain the material advantage necessary for victory.
The endgame is characterized by the following key features: The king in the endgame is an active piece. As long as it is not threatened by a checkmate, it can leave its hiding place and participate in the battle alongside other pieces. It can attack the opponent’s pieces and pawns and lead the charge into the enemy’s camp. The approximate strength of the king in the endgame is the strength of the rook.
Your king should not hide in a shelter in the endgame, as this is a direct path to defeat.
This can be described as a “residual effect” from the middle game, where the king needed protection. When transitioning to the endgame, it is important to mentally reconfigure, as the game is completely different (one could even say diametrically opposed) at the end of the game compared to the opening and middlegame.

Black has an extra pawn, but the white king is more active. The result of the match is predetermined, because nothing can prevent the white pawn a5 from becoming a queen.
The value of pieces
There are few pieces in the endgame, so the value of each piece increases. While creating a decisive advantage on a particular part of the board is often enough to win in the middle game, playing the endgame correctly means ensuring maximum activity and clear interaction between the pieces.
Pawns
In the endgame, the role of pawns increases dramatically, as the chance of promoting a pawn to queen increases.
While a one-pawn advantage in the middle game is usually not decisive, it is often sufficient for victory in the endgame.
In the middle game, the plan is often determined not only by the position, but also by the opponents’ playing style, psychological calculations, and so on.
In the endgame, the game plan focuses on achieving specific positions that are known to be valuable.
For example:

RECOMMENDATIONS
You don’t need to play all the openings in a row, there’s no need for such a spread.
(Even in one opening, there is enough information to last for many years).
So, you and I have decided that we need to play open openings first, based on this, it follows:
1. Make up a debut repertoire for yourself (what you will play) for whites and for blacks.
For White, 2—3 openings are enough, this is in response to 1…e5
If you are going to play
Italian Game 1.e4 e5 2.Nf3 Nc6 3.Bc4 Bc5

in addition to the Italian Game itself, you can be played for Black:
2-Knight Defense 1.e4 e5 2.Nf3 Nc6 3.Bc4 Nf6

Philidor Defense 1.e4 e5 2.Nf3 d6

Hungarian Game 1.e4 e5 2.Nf3 Nc6 3.Bc4 Be7.

The Russian game is 1.e4 e5 2.Nf3 Nf6.

The Latvian Gambit 1.e4 e5 2.Nf3 f5 is played extremely rarely, but you should know at least one correct answer.

If you are going to play
The Scotch Game 1. e4 e5 2. Nf3 Nc6 3. d4.

(in addition to the Scottish Game itself, you can be played for Black: Russian Game, Latvian Gambit).
Gambits
Be sure to include gambits in your opening repertoire to choose from:
King’s Gambit 1.e4 e5 2. f4

Scottish Gambit 1.e4 e5 2.Nf3 Nc6 3.d4 ed 4.Bc4.

Evans Gambit 1.e4 e5 2.Nf3 Nc6 3.Bc4 Bc5 4.b4

Gambits not only help you master typical tactical strikes, but also give you an understanding of what tempo, initiative, material superiority, etc. are.
If you are not playing 1…e5, you should also know at least one variation of the most popular semi-open openings:
The Sicilian Defense
The French Defense
The Scandinavian Defense
The Caro-Kann Defense
The Pirc-Ufimtsev Defense.
Pirc-Ufimtsev Defense. Modern variant.
The Sicilian Defense 1. e4 c5. is the most popular semi-open opening

The French Defense 1. e4 e6 is the second most popular semi-open opening

Scandinavian Defense 1. e4 d5.

Caro-Kann Defense 1. e4 c6.

Pirc-Ufimtsev Defense. Modern variant.
1.e4 d6 2.d4 Nf6 3. Nc3 g6.

For Black, for now, limit yourself to openings with moves on 1.e4 e5
On 1…e5, you should be prepared for openings such as:
King’s Gambit, Scotch Game, Scotch Gambit, Vienna Game.
Vienna Game 1.e4 e5 2.Nc3.

Four-Knight Opening 1.e4 e5 2.Nf3 Nc6 3.Nc3 Nf6.

Central Opening 1.e4 e5 2.d4 ed

Ponziani’s Opening 1.e4 e5 2.Nf3 Nc6 3.c3.

Spanish Game 1.e4 e5 2.Nf3 Nc6 3.Bb5 is the most popular open opening

on 1.d4, play 1…d5 Refused Queen’s Gambit (the pawn sacrifice by White in the Queen’s Gambit is quite conditional, as if Black accepts the sacrifice, there is no need to defend it, as it would put White in a very unpleasant position (unlike the King’s Gambit, where the pawn can be defended in some variations).
If white is not playing 1.e4 or 1.d4 with you, then proceed from the general rules of playing the opening (you will not give recommendations for all moves) Center. Development. Castling. And if possible, reduce the game to the opening schemes you know.
For example:
1.Nf3 e6 2.d4 d5 3.c4 Nf6 or 1.c4 e6 2.Nf3 d5 3.d4 Nf6
with the reordering of the moves, it is possible to obtain a position from the Queen’s Gambit.
(Today, powerful computer programs have made significant adjustments to the game of chess, but we will discuss this later in the book).
However, it is up to you to decide, as each chess player chooses their own opening repertoire based on their preferences and interests.
But again, this is just the first step in learning opening preparation and as a rule with the improvement of qualifications, each chess player rethinks the opening repertoire for himself.
What is closer to him a quiet beginning in closed games or an open uncompromising struggle, associated with a certain risk, symmetrical positions, or attacks on the flank, etc. etc.
Experienced chess players always have several well-studied openings (or variations) in reserve, both for White and for Black.
This is because it is crucial to consider the opponent, the desired outcome, and the color and moves of your opponent. For example, if you’re playing black against a slightly weaker opponent and they play 1.e4, it might be worth considering not playing 1…e5 and instead playing 1…c5 or 1…e6, which is a semi-open opening, and so on. However, this is something that experienced players do.
At this stage, one opening is sufficient, and everything comes with experience.
Chapter 3
Mate with heavy pieces. Mate with two bishops. Typical mates (king with a piece and pawns, queen with a piece, rook with a piece, stifled mate). Key fields, time pressure, zugzwang. Appendix 3.1 Basic Mate Structures
Checkmate with heavy pieces. Linear checkmate
Linear checkmate, checkmate with heavy pieces, usually two rooks (less often a rook and a queen, two queens).
Checkmate with a queen and a rook.
How to checkmate with a queen and a rook?
The ultimate goal of a chess game is checkmate. We will consider the so-called linear checkmate. Why is it called linear? Because it is achieved with heavy pieces along lines (vertical or horizontal).
Checkmate is placed on the edge of the board, so you first need to determine which edge of the board the opponent’s king is closest to. This is necessary to place the checkmate as quickly as possible.
Many novice chess players ignore this rule (they believe that no matter what the difference is between a move earlier and a move later, checkmate is inevitable anyway). Checkmate is inevitable, of course, but… what if you run out of time and then it’s an insulting draw (according to the rules, if you run out of time and your opponent doesn’t have enough material to checkmate, then a draw is awarded).
But the most important thing is not that, but that it becomes a habit and in some (maybe very important game, you just won’t have time to checkmate). A strong chess player will NEVER waste time, but will deliver a checkmate in the fastest possible way.
So, once we have determined which side of the board to drive the enemy king to, we begin to give checkmate with the queen and rook in turn.
Example:
Here is the position to aim for in order to deliver a checkmate with the queen and rook: