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Earnings matter, if only to work out whether you stand a chance of buying
Before you start browsing Zoopla it is a good idea to work out roughly how much you are realistically going to be able to borrow based on your earnings. This is only part of the picture as explained above, but a good place to begin. There are lots of mortgage calculators online that work on this basis. The rough rule of thumb at the moment, though it varies between banks, is that you can borrow about four to four and a half times your pre-tax salary. Some lenders will stretch to five times your salary, as long as it is affordable (if you are self-employed this might not apply – more below). Some banks offer a ‘professional mortgage’ with a maximum loan 5.5 times salaries if you are a newly qualified professional such as a doctor, vet, solicitor or architect. This is called an ‘income multiple’. That means if you earn £35,000 a year before tax you are unlikely to be able to borrow more than about £158,000 if you are buying alone. Now you can see why there’s a housing-affordability problem.
It is worth noting that the income multiple is the same for couples as for single applicants, so you are in a much stronger position if you buy with another person. Banks also treat ‘non-guaranteed’ income differently – items like commission payments and bonuses. This means you might get quirks where one bank actually offers you a bigger mortgage on a four-times-income multiple than another bank which is prepared to lend on a four-and-a-half-times-income multiple but does not allow for bonuses.
The maximum income multiple also varies with what LTV you can afford. Someone with a 25 per cent deposit is more likely to be able to borrow five times their income, whereas if you have just 5 per cent deposit, the maximum is unlikely to be more than four times. This maximum may also vary according to how much you earn, on the basis that you can allocate a higher proportion of your income to the mortgage repayments if you are richer. As Mr Boulger puts it: ‘Someone earning £80,000 won’t spend four times as much on toilet rolls as someone earning £20,000.’
How to get a mortgage if you are self-employed
You used to be able to apply for ‘self-cert’ mortgages, nicknamed ‘liar loans’, which allowed you, as a self-employed worker, to state your income without any actual proof of it. These were banned in 2014. If you are self-employed or a freelancer you apply for mortgages in the same ways as everyone else, but it is now a lot harder to get one, though do not give up before you have tried.
Ideally you need at least two years of accounts, and three years will go down even better. Many banks want these signed off by an accountant. You also need to show the income you have reported in your self-assessment tax return to HMRC; you can download the SA302 form and tax-year overview from HMRC’s website.
Some lenders – for example, Halifax (if you have a great credit score), Newcastle Building Society, Kensington and Precise Mortgages – will consider those who have been self-employed for only a year. Smaller building societies tend to be a better bet: they are less likely to pull ‘Computer says no’. You may also find it easier if you were with the same business as a full-time employee before you started going freelance.
If your earnings have been rising, banks will usually take your average income for the past two or so years. If it has fallen, they will probably use the latest and lowest figure of earnings. The best thing to do is apply to a lender you know will be most happy to offer you a deal given your specific circumstances. A broker can help matchmake. If you are self-employed, take extra care with spending in the run-up to a mortgage application. You want to act especially frugally for at least six months beforehand.
What is ‘stress testing’ and why the future matters as much as the present
Post-credit-crunch lending rules now also require banks to make sure that a mortgage is affordable not only right now but also in the future. The result is ‘stress testing’. You may be able to comfortably meet mortgage repayments on your existing salary with current low interest rates, but what if interest rates rise? You will only be able to borrow as much as you can happily afford with an interest rate of 3 per cent higher than it is today, usually compared with a bank’s standard variable rate (more on what that is in a minute) at the point at which you apply. That means most first-time buyers are stress-tested on the basis of a mortgage that might fall payable with interest of 7 to 7.5 per cent.
This protects you from overstretching yourself, but also means you are limited with how great a risk you can take on borrowing, even if you feel confident that your earnings are going to increase significantly in the future.
What is your credit score and why does it matter?
When it assesses whether or not you can afford a mortgage, a bank will score your creditworthiness based on information it can gather from your credit history or credit file as well as your bank statements. Your credit history is a record of your interactions with other financial companies: banks, energy providers and so on, kept by credit-reference agencies. Your prospective lender is looking for evidence of past borrowing behaviour to assess whether or not you will be a well-behaved borrower going forward.
You are also judged on things like how long you have been with the same employer, how long you have lived at your address, and how long you have had your bank account.
Most banks, building societies and financial companies have their own arcane bespoke credit-scoring system, based on what factors they deem important as a yardstick of reliability. No one is quite sure how they all work, how they are compiled, and how banks use them. Underwriters at banks, that is the team that assess risk, will not reveal how they compile and assess credit scores because they are ‘commercially sensitive’, so you can be rejected for having, in their view, a bad score, without knowing why, or being able to argue that their criteria are wrong.
You do not have one single credit score – this is a myth – but UK banks use three credit-reference agencies in the UK for information: Experian, Equifax and Transunion. They compile their own credit scores based on their own assessment of your credit history, and you can check them to get some idea of whether or not you look like a worthy borrower. They are useful, but just guidelines.
Despite their opaque nature, credit scores are annoyingly important, and used for everything from overdrafts and credit cards to mobile-phone deals and, crucially, mortgages. I received letters in my role as consumer champion at The Times from people on the verge of losing a house they wanted, or unable to secure an affordable mortgage, because of minor bill infractions or disputes, like forgetting to clear a small sum owed to an energy company on an account for a shared flat after everyone moves out, or missing a mobile-phone payment. These have resulted in letters from debt collectors, which damaged the reader’s credit history.
One man thought his gas account had been put on hold over a bill he did not think he owed while it was investigated; instead it had been passed to debt collectors, and a ‘late-payment’ notice added to his credit report. As a result he was turned down for a cheaper mortgage, and estimated that it would cost him over £10,000 more.
One first-time buyer couple applied for three new bank accounts – a current account each, and a joint account with the same bank that had agreed to lend them a mortgage – because they were told it would simplify things. Instead their credit score was damaged by the fact that they applied for too many financial products at once, even though the bank was getting more of their business. Totally bizarre, but really expensive, they could no longer apply for a 95 per cent LTV mortgage; they had to find another £12,000 for a deposit for a 90 per cent one. Luckily their grandparents bailed them out, but others less fortunate would have lost the house.
How to improve your credit history
If you were going to lend someone several hundred thousand pounds you would want to know a bit about how likely they were to pay you back, based on how well they had paid other people back in the past. You might be equally reluctant to lend to them if you had no evidence of their reliability because they had never borrowed from anyone before. What people do not realize is that although debt is portrayed as something you should generally avoid, having no credit history is as bad as having a faulty one. Banks need something to go on. This can be a problem for young first-time buyers whose only experience of financial products is their bank account and children’s saver they signed up to when they were twelve, or for people moving here from abroad who leave their credit histories behind in another country.
What it is useful to do, ideally at least six months before you apply for a mortgage, is create a wholesome credit portrait of yourself and, if you have no credit history, start borrowing small amounts to build one up. Start by checking your credit record through one or all of the three main credit-reference agencies mentioned above: Equifax, Experian and Transunion. You can do this free, though be warned that you only get it free by signing up for a free trial period, after which you start to get charged automatically. Many people are caught out by this, so unsubscribe as soon as you have your score. ClearScore lets you check your Equifax report free ‘forever’.
I recommend that you check the credit-reference agencies at least six months before you start to apply for a mortgage, so that you have time to sort it out if it’s poor, but it’s worth doing even if you intend to apply for a mortgage next week.
• MAKE SURE YOU ARE ON THE ELECTORAL ROLL
This is essential. If you are not you won’t get a mortgage. Banks use the electoral roll to check you are who you say you are. Make sure your name is spelled right, all your address history is correct and up to date, and that you are registered to vote at the same, most recent, address.
• GET A CREDIT CARD AND USE IT IN A CHILLED-OUT MANNER
If you have a poor score because you have not had credit in the past, take out a credit card and use it for day-to-day shopping for a few months. Set up a direct debit to clear if off in full every month. Don’t just pay the minimum payment, but don’t max it out either: the perfect amount of spending is about 10 to 30 per cent of your credit-card limit. It demonstrates that you can borrow sensibly without losing the plot with all this lovely free money. A monthly credit-card balance below 30 per cent can gain you 90 points on your credit score, according to Experian, which scores from 0 to 999. A score of around 780 is fair, one of above 961 or higher is excellent. A card balance above 90 per cent will cost you 50 points.
• ADD RENT TO YOUR CREDIT HISTORY
You can now ask for rental payments to be added to your Experian credit score to demonstrate that you are a reliable rent-payer. Not all banks take this into account yet, but there are hopes that this will slowly start to change, so it is worth doing.
The Rental Exchange scheme records your rental payments and sends the results to Experian. You need to actively sign up to do this by paying your rent through a company called Credit Ladder, which then passes on your money to your landlord or letting agent, so run this past your landlord to check that they are happy with it first. Equifax and Callcredit don’t yet consider rental payments.
• DON’T APPLY FOR OTHER STUFF
Don’t be over-keen. Applying for too many accounts and loans in a short space of time does not go down well. If you can, avoid applying for anything (mobile phone, credit card, bank account) within six months or so of applying for your mortgage.
• BREAK UP WITH YOUR EX
Break any links to ex-partners and former flatmates with whom you have shared joint accounts or joint bills. If you are still wrongly linked on your report, contact all three agencies to ask them for a ‘disassociation’. Contrary to popular belief, just living with someone else who failed to pay their bills on time will not damage your credit file, but if you were financially tied to them then their poor credit history will reflect negatively on yours (conversely their excellent credit history reflects well on you). Bear this in mind before you open any kind of joint financial product.
• PAY ALL YOUR BILLS ON TIME
Make sure you do not default on any household bills. Credit reports include information from, for example, your gas, electricity, insurance and water supplier. Any defaults, even if you failed to pay just £5, stay on and damage your report for six years.
Missing your last payment on an account will cost you about 130 points according to Experian; receiving a default, when an account is passed to debt collectors, or getting a court judgement, will cost you more than 250 points. These things fade over time, though: after three years you will lose fewer points for them. If there are any mistakes on your report, or any defaults that you think are unfair or misrepresent you, then you can ask the credit-reference agency to investigate them and add a note of up to 200 words (known as a notice of correction) on your file to put them right. Lay out why you feel they are unfair, or why your circumstances have changed. For example, you might write that you missed a bill because you had lost your job, but you are now fully employed and back to paying bills on time.
• REDUCE YOUR DEBTS (BUT DON’T WORRY ABOUT STUDENT LOANS)
Pay down any debt you have as much as possible before applying for a mortgage: lenders will look at your ‘balance trend’ as part of credit scoring. This does not include student loans. Arguably you would be better off boosting your deposit than using savings to pay down any student loan. See the next chapter for more on why.
• BE CAREFUL ON FACEBOOK
There have been stories that banks take what you post on social media into account. This is hard to prove, but Andrew Montlake, of the mortgage broker Coreco, told me that he would suggest those looking to apply for a mortgage should be careful about what they share. ‘Gambling stories, wild nights out and lavish spending boasts should probably be avoided.’ Also avoid sending or receiving cash to your bank with ‘banterous’ references. Banks have rejected people based on ‘drug money’ appearing on their statements, even if it is obviously a joke.
• DO NOT GET A PAYDAY LOAN
For some banks payday loans are also an absolute credit-score killer. Some banks will not lend to you at all if you have taken out a payday loan, others are less fussed. But best not to go anywhere near a payday loan at least a year before you apply for a mortgage if you can help it. Ideally never go anywhere near a payday loan.
• BE WARY OF BUY-NOW-PAY-LATER
You might have noticed that on most high-street online stores you don’t actually have to pay for your shopping immediately, thanks to buy-now-pay-later (BNPL) apps like Klarna and Clearpay. Misusing BNPL can, however, damage your credit score, so I’d avoid them, or at least treat them with a lot of caution if you are planning to apply for a mortgage any time soon.
• GET A COPY OF YOUR OLD REPORT IF YOU HAVE MOVED TO THE UK FROM ABROAD
If you have moved from abroad, bring a copy of your credit record from the main agency in your home country to the UK, then contact Experian, Equifax and Transunion and ask them to put a note on your file that you are willing to provide a copy of your credit history. Monese offers bank accounts to people who have no proof of address, maybe because they have no credit record in the UK and therefore their name is not on a utility bill.
You have got a deposit and can afford a mortgage! So what is the process of buying a house?
You spot a house you like advertised with an estate agent. You work out whether you can afford it and stamp duty based on whether you can get a mortgage. You can at this stage get a ‘mortgage in principle’, which is a non-binding agreement stating how much, based on your income, outgoings and credit score, a bank will lend you. If all looks good, you put in an offer for the property, which is hopefully accepted by the seller. You then appoint a property lawyer to start what is called the conveyancing process. You find the mortgage you want – it doesn’t have to be with the same bank that gave you a mortgage in principle – and apply for it for real.
Once the sellers have accepted your offer there is still no guarantee that they will definitely sell to you, just a ‘gentleman’s agreement’. There is a chance that you could get gazumped. That’s where another seller swoops in with a higher offer, and a greedy seller dumps you for the new bidders. Gazundering is where you, the buyer, lower your offer just before exchange of contracts. There is nothing other than your conscience, and the risk of pissing off the seller, who may pull out, to stop you doing this, but all the same, better not to – bad karma.
Cross your fingers you do not get gazumped, and insist that the person you are buying from takes down the online or estate-agent advert for their home (the estate agent probably will not do this unless you force them to). In Scotland an offer being accepted is legally binding, sometimes subject to a mortgage being approved, so you are unlikely to be gazumped, or pull out once you have put your offer in.
Your bank will carry out affordability and credit-score checks and then, with a mortgage-valuation survey, on the property you want to buy. This survey is not the same as a building survey, which checks whether the house is in good condition. You need to set this up yourself.
Meanwhile your solicitor will be carrying out checks too, on things like whether your property is on a floodplain. You have to pay for these. Press your solicitor for these to be completed quickly.
When you have received your mortgage offer and your solicitor is ready you can exchange contracts, a process carried out between your own and the seller’s solicitor. At this stage you normally need to pay 10 per cent – sometimes, if you negotiate, 5 per cent – of the price of the property you are buying to your solicitor, who passes it on to the seller’s solicitor. Make sure you have this money ready to be transferred out of your bank account; some banks will require a few days’ notice.
Be super-careful about the accuracy of your solicitor’s bank details. There is a common fraud where solicitors’ email accounts are hacked by a fraudster who sends out an email to a buyer stating that the solicitor’s bank details have changed, or adding in false sort codes and account numbers. If in any doubt, call your solicitor to check again where you send the money. Once you’ve clicked send it’s gone, and you cannot get it back if you send it to the wrong place. I’ve seen this happen several times, and it is heartbreaking.
You also need, at this stage, to arrange buildings insurance, legally required as part of receiving a mortgage.
You agree a day of completion, on which you arrange to send over the rest of your home deposit, plus any fees owed to your solicitor, as well as stamp duty. Your solicitor will receive cash from your mortgage company and arrange to send this to the seller’s solicitor on completion day, at which point you receive the keys for your new home. Woohoo!
The many other costs of buying a house
When working out whether you can afford to buy you need to budget for all the many other unexpected costs that crop up along the way: stamp duty, legal costs, local authority searches, survey costs, mortgage arrangement fees, mortgage broker fees, buildings insurance, removal vans, and, only if you are selling too, estate-agency fees.
Need-to-knows: Stamp duty
This is the biggest cost of moving, a tax you pay on any property you buy in the UK. The tax is based on the price of the property you are buying, and is staggered in thresholds. For example, from April 2021 you pay 2 per cent of a property’s value on properties priced between £125,001 and £250,000; 5 per cent on properties worth between £250,001 and £925,000; 10 per cent on properties worth £925,001 to £1.5 million.
First-time buyers are exempt from paying stamp duty on any home worth below £300,000. If the property you want to buy is worth more than £300,000 but less than £500,000 you pay 5 per cent of any proportion between the two. During 2020, and up to April 2021, there is a temporarily more generous stamp duty holiday to help the housing market cope with the coronavirus pandemic. The first £500,000 of a property is exempt from the tax altogether. If you are buying before April 2021, check out the stamp duty calculator at gov.uk to see how much you’ll pay.
If you are buying with another person you both have to be first-time buyers, otherwise the first-time buyer’s stamp duty holiday (after April 2021) does not count. There is an exception if only one person’s name is on the deeds, and that person is a first-time buyer, but only if you are not married. You are not a first-time buyer if you have already owned a property in another country, or if you have inherited a property. You also only get the exemption if you are buying a home to live in. It does not apply to buy to let, even if you have never bought a property before.
Conveyancing
You need a property solicitor or conveyancer to help you buy a house. Expect to pay fees in the region of £1,000 to £1,500. Having a solicitor who cracks on with the work and will answer your calls promptly will save you a lot of aggro, so a personal recommendation is probably the best way to find one. Failing that, The Law Society website’s ‘find a solicitor’ section lists conveyancers. You do not need to use a local solicitor. You could find a more affordable, reliable one from back home, even if you are buying in London, for example.
You will also need to pay your solicitor certain fees for Land Registry, which charges for changing the ownership of a home into your name, and local authority searches. Budget an additional £300 or so.
Finding a solicitor before you put in a house offer makes you look organized and committed and can help save precious time when an offer has been accepted and you want to exchange as soon as possible.