The Ports, Harbours, Watering-places and Picturesque Scenery of Great Britain Vol. 2

BERWICK. – LIGHTHOUSE ON THE PIER

The view of the Lighthouse, at the head of Berwick Pier (which forms the vignette to our Second Volume), is taken from the entrance to the harbour, about half a mile below the bridge. This Pier, the building of which was commenced in 1810, stands on the north side of the river, and is chiefly erected on the foundations of an old one, which is said to have been built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. From the lighthouse, which was finished in 1826, two lights are exhibited at night, the one above the other. The upper one, which is of a pale, white colour, is lighted from sunset to sunrise; the lower one, which is of a bright red, is a tide-light, and is only displayed during the time that there is ten feet water on the bar.

Berwick Harbour is not well adapted for vessels of large burthen, for the greater part of the shore, in front of the quay, is dry at low water. On the Tweedmouth side, near the Car Rock, is the best water within the bar; and a vessel drawing from sixteen to eighteen feet water may lie there at all hours of the tide without touching the ground. The entrance to the harbour is narrow, as a bank of sand stretches out to the eastward, from the Spittal shore, to the extent of nearly half a mile, and approaches to within a cable's length of the rocks on the north. When the wind is from the eastward, there is always a swell on the bar; and the ebb-tide – more especially when there is a fresh in the river, in consequence of rain – runs out with such velocity that it is impossible for a vessel to make head against it. Vessels bound for Berwick, which cannot take the harbour in bad weather, usually seek shelter in Leith Roads.

The salmon fishery forms a most important branch of the trade of Berwick. About the middle of the last century, the fish used chiefly to be conveyed to London by small vessels of about forty tons burthen, belonging to Harwich and Gravesend, engaged by the London dealers; the fresh-caught salmon and gilse were conveyed in wells in the hold, but a large portion was sent pickled in kits. About 1787, the practice of packing salmon in pounded ice was suggested by George Dempster, Esq., of Dunnichen, then M.P. for Cupar, to Mr. John Richardson, a salmon-dealer, of Perth, who immediately adopted it; and the next year the salmon-dealers of Berwick followed his example.

Most of the salmon sent from Berwick to London are caught between the mouth of the Tweed and Norham, which is about eight miles up the river, and the highest point to which the tide flows. In 1799, the yearly rental of the fisheries within this distance, on both sides of the river, was estimated at £10,000; and in 1817 it was nearly double that sum. In consequence of the decline of the salmon fishery since 1820, it does not at the present time exceed £9,000. Various causes have been assigned for the decline of the salmon fishery in the Tweed; such as the building of the New Pier at the north side of the harbour; with the draining of lands and the destruction of fish in close time towards the upper parts of the river. How the building of the New Pier, and the draining of lands in Selkirk and Roxburghshire affect the breed of salmon, has not been clearly shown; and poaching in close time has not prevailed to a greater extent during the last twenty years than in the twenty years previous to 1816. The unremitting manner in which the river was legally fished between the mouth of the Tweed and Norham, from 1800 to 1817, is more likely to have been one great cause of the decline; but the proprietors of the fisheries seem unwilling to admit that a river may be over-fished, as well as land exhausted by over-cropping.

It can scarcely be said that there is a public market for salmon in Berwick, almost all that are caught being engrossed by factors or fish-curers, and sent to London; and salmon is generally as dear there as in the metropolis. The fish, as soon as caught, are packed in large boxes, between layers of pounded ice, and in this manner conveyed to the metropolis.

THE MERSEY. FROM LIVERPOOL

The Mersey is to Liverpool what the Thames is to London – the grand channel of mercantile prosperity – the main artery that carries health and vigour into the heart of the city, and thence distributes them by a thousand ramifications through all classes of the community. The navigation of this river has long been an object of primary import to the prosperity of our national trade; and therefore every suggestion which promised to obviate and remove those impediments which nature had thrown in the way, has been met with the greatest promptness and liberality. Whatever it was possible for art to accomplish has been attempted, and that so successfully that, if the ultimate object has not yet been obtained, the navigation of the Mersey has at least been rendered comparatively safe and expeditious. The grand enterprise for facilitating the intercourse between Liverpool and Manchester was commenced in 1720, when a canal was formed, and the navigation of the Mersey and Irwell was so greatly improved, that the "flats" – which were previously ten or eleven days in going from one town to the other – could now, by taking advantage of the tide, accomplish the same distance in as many hours. How amazingly this distance has been again shortened in our own times, by the introduction of steam power, is familiar to every one.

The rise and expansion of Liverpool – in all that regards it as a mercantile emporium – have taken place within the last two centuries. In 1650, the town – a mere fishing hamlet – consisted of only five or six streets. A pool, branching from the river, extended over the space now occupied by the new Custom-house and the three streets adjoining; and, for the convenience of intercourse, a ferry-boat was kept at the corner of Church-street and Whitechapel. This ferry was at last superseded by a bridge, erected by the proprietor of the land, Lord Molyneux; and since that period the advancement of the Mersey in the list of great navigable rivers has been unprecedentedly rapid and successful. The grand municipal improvements, however, have all been effected within the last century. During that interval, splendid squares, streets, and public monuments have sprung up into existence. Previously to that epoch there was no spirit, no scope for commercial enterprise, and consequently no harbour, nor dock, nor warehouse. But now spacious harbours extend for several miles along the bank of the Mersey: on the bosom of the river stately merchantmen, outward or homeward bound, laden with the produce of every clime, are continually passing and repassing; while the usual embellishments which follow a train of successful industry are apparent at every step of our progress, adding ever varying features of beauty and animation to the landscape. He who would form a just estimate of the vast and unlimited resources of this great commercial city, should spend at least a day, partly in a promenade along the banks, and partly on the spring-tide of the Mersey.

This river is navigable for vessels of considerable burden so far as the mouth of the Irwell, – a distance of thirty-five miles from Liverpool. It derives its source from the confluence of several small streams on the Cheshire and Derbyshire frontier, and pursues a serpentine course, gradually inclining to the south-west. Its largest tributary is the Irwell, which falls into it near the village of Flixton, seven miles from Manchester. A little below Warrington, the Mersey expands into a broad arm of the sea, and turning abruptly to the south-west, contracts its channel as it passes Liverpool to about three quarters of a mile in breadth; but in proceeding farther inland, it again increases its width to more than three miles. This peculiarity is very advantageous to the port, as the great body of water, passing and repassing at every tide, keeps the navigation of the Mersey always open. A range of sand banks run parallel with the coast for many miles, but several channels intervene, giving sufficient depth for vessels of the heaviest draught at high water, at which time the Mersey presents the most interesting and striking scene, – particularly when a westerly wind favours the arrival of the numerous fleets destined to this port, bearing the flags and freighted with the produce of all nations that have found a place in the chart of commercial enterprise.

CANNING DOCK AND CUSTOM-HOUSE, LIVERPOOL

Liverpool presents one of the most remarkable instances on record of the vast influence of commercial speculation, when pursued with steady vigour, prudence, and resolution. Commerce is the first step to empire, and, successfully prosecuted, never fails to consolidate the strength and independence of the state. To this important end no city in the kingdom has so amply contributed as Liverpool; none of our rivers, the Thames excepted, has wafted to our shores so many precious cargoes as the Mersey, nor exported so much of the produce of our native manufactures to all parts of the world. This great commercial city, rapid as its progress has been, is still advancing in the career of prosperity; hardly a month passes without some local improvement, – some substantial proof that her trade is on the increase, stimulating domestic industry, and affording the means of unlimited intercourse with every shore of the commercial world.

Canning Dock, with the Custom-house, forms one of the finest points of view in Liverpool, presenting at one view a building of elegant design and execution, and a forest of masts which sufficiently indicate the bustle of trade, and the air of business that pervade every feature of the place – animate or inanimate. Canning Dock – so distinguished in honour of Mr. Canning, a name happily identified with Liverpool and the prosperity of its trade, – covers a space of five hundred yards in length. On the west side it communicates with three graving docks, where vessels are laid up for repairs, and is chiefly occupied by vessels trading to the northern coast. It is the first of the seven docks extending southward, and is generally filled by vessels in the act of discharging or taking in their cargoes. It presents a scene of great bustle and activity, and, though only one out of many, affords the stranger a very clear idea of the vast amount of traffic that is daily shipped or entered at this emporium.

The Custom-House is of recent date, and replaced the old official buildings, which were found quite inadequate to the purposes of a daily extending commerce. Through the united interest of Canning and Huskisson, negociations were entered into with Government as to the necessity of a new Custom-house; and after a short time arrangements were concluded for its immediate erection. Mr. Foster, architect to the Liverpool corporation, was engaged to prepare the designs, and made choice of the present site as the most appropriate for a commercial building of this size and character.

The lower apartments of the Custom-house consist of spacious vaults for the safe custody of bonded and other goods; and in the centre is the apartment known as the Long Room. The offices of customs occupy the whole extent of the west wing; and it is intended that part of the east wing shall be appropriated to the use of the general post-office. Above these are the excise offices and those of the dock-treasurer and secretaries. The remaining portions of the edifice are subdivided into the board-room, the dock-committee's offices, and the stamp-office.

The chasteness and beauty of the Ionic style of architecture adopted in this magnificent edifice have been much and justly admired. The centre, and the east and west fronts are adorned by lofty porticos, each supported by eight Ionic columns. The centre of the building is surmounted by a magnificent dome, lighted by sixteen windows, and ornamented round by pilasters. Inclosed within the outer dome is a smaller one encircled by twelve windows, so as to afford sufficient light to the Long Room. The interior of this building will amply repay the stranger for a visit. The grand front is opposite Castle-street; and, entering in this direction, the first object which claims attention is the massive grouping of the pilasters which support the floor of the Long Room over head. The stairs, flanked by handsome iron balustrades, – the landing-places supported by eight Ionic stone columns, each of a single piece, – the four pilasters, and the elaborate ceilings, – are all deserving of particular attention. The Long Room is altogether splendidly designed and executed; lighted by fourteen windows on the sides, and by twelve as already observed, in the inner dome. The ceiling is divided by lateral and transverse beams into regular compartments, all beautifully ornamented. At each of the opposite ends of this noble apartment are a corresponding flight of stairs and landing-places. But to convey a just description of this monument to the genius of commerce is at once difficult and tedious; we therefore recommend all who may visit Liverpool, as admirers of its docks, harbours, and splendid edifices, to devote an hour to the Custom-house – a building which reflects great honour upon the architect, and serves as a lasting ornament to the second city of the empire.

ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH AND ST. GEORGE'S BASIN, LIVERPOOL

St. Nicholas, or the Old Church, is supposed to stand upon the site of an ancient chapel built about the time of the Conquest. But whether this be correct or not, there is at least evidence to prove that, in 1361, license for burial here was granted by the Bishop of Lichfield. It was endowed by Queen Elizabeth with a small sum, under five pounds, to be paid annually out of the chantry rents to the minister; and another sum, between five and six pounds, as a yearly grant to the schoolmaster. In the olden time a statue of the patron, St. Nicholas, erected in the churchyard, was much frequented by mariners, who believed that an offering made to the saint would conciliate the winds in their favour, and secure a prosperous voyage. Time, however, put an end to this confederacy between the saint and seamen. St. Nicholas was dethroned; and for a time the winds "blew as if they would have cracked their cheeks" at the downfall of one who had so long laid them under arrest. But at length a better knowledge of the compass and the coast made the seaman ample compensation for the loss of his ghostly patron, and showed him that a skilful mariner and a stout bark are better securities against storm and tempest than any saint in the calendar.

In 1774 this church was rebuilt, – "The old roof, walls, and Gothic pillars, the old blue ceiling, black and white clouds, golden sun, moon, and stars, painted and gilt thereon," were removed, and the re-edification completed, under the direction of Joseph Brooks, Esq. In 1810 this church was the scene of a dreadful catastrophe; the steeple suddenly gave way as the children of the charity-school were entering the church. It fell upon the body of the building, and twenty-four lives were sacrificed, seventeen of which were girls belonging to the school. Many others were severely wounded. The accident was attributed to the weakness of an old arch upon which a modern spire had been erected. The spire was subsequently restored by Mr. Harrison, of Chester, with a degree of taste and execution which does him credit. It consists of an ornamented Gothic tower, surmounted by an open lantern, with an air of great lightness and elegance, and forming a very striking feature among the many architectural objects – civil and ecclesiastical – by which it is surrounded. The height of the tower is one hundred and twenty feet, and that of the lantern sixty; so that together the steeple has an elevation of not less than one hundred and eighty feet. During the night the clock opposite the river is illuminated, so that it may serve as a landmark to assure the mariner that St. Nicholas is still on the watch for his safety, as in the good olden time.

St. George's Dock, from which the view of the Church is taken, was constructed according to an act of parliament obtained in 1762, and completed at an expenditure of twenty-one thousand pounds. It is two hundred and sixty-four yards in length, one hundred in breadth, and lined on the east side by a row of very large warehouses, with footpaths under the piazzas. Extending along both sides are sheds for merchandise; and on the pier-head, at the west side of the dock, are the public baths. The latter, comprised in a large building of plain but classical design and execution, were erected by the corporation at an expense of thirty-six thousand pounds, and opened to the public in the month of June, 1829. Nothing could be better adapted to its purpose than this great public edifice, in which the twofold recommendation of ornament and utility are happily combined. The water is constantly flowing through the baths in a fresh current; being supplied from the river at high-tide, filtered, and contained in a reservoir of eight hundred tons under the centre of the building. Private, cold, shower, warm, tepid, medicated, and vapour baths are to be had at all hours; and from the excellent manner in which every department is arranged and conducted, the inhabitants possess in this establishment one of the great means of promoting health and averting disease.

NEW BRIGHTON

New Brighton has already taken a prominent station in the list of fashionable watering-places, and in several respects bids fair to eclipse even the attractions of its celebrated namesake in Sussex. Highly favoured by nature in a romantic point of view, the striking features of this locality have been duly taken advantage of in constructing a series of marine villas, all in harmony with the native landscape. These, with the most picturesque effects as viewed from a distance, combine every accommodation that can be desired, – either for families of distinction, or private individuals; while the air, which the invalid inhales from the atmosphere around him, produces a degree of vigour and exhilaration, which is rarely experienced in situations more inland or less elevated.

The honour of founding New Brighton belongs to James Atherton, Esq. A bold design, as it at first appeared, but which judgment, taste, and a liberal hand have converted into a lasting monument, – creditable alike to the originator and to the discriminating public, who have manifested a decided preference for the situation, and thus amply justified the enterprise. The first step taken by Mr. Atherton was to purchase nearly two hundred acres of land, including the site of the future town. These were put under the care of persons well instructed in the plan of operations. The design was prosecuted with unremitting zeal; houses sprang up, streets were laid out, and in a comparatively short time the skeleton of New Brighton was completed. Strangers resorted to the spot; the citizens of Liverpool became eager for its completion, and for those enjoyments which it presented as a summer retreat, as well as for the many advantages which it offered to the invalid. Thus encouraged by the vote of public approbation, the works made rapid progress, and shortly after assumed the name and consideration of a favourite watering-place.

In the design and execution of the various embellishments of the place, the architect has never stepped aside from the rules of good taste. The pleasure and accommodation of the visitors have been carefully studied. Spacious streets, fifteen yards in breadth and nearly a mile in length, insure a free circulation of air, and throw open an agreeable promenade to the public, who resort thither in great numbers during the summer and autumn. The partiality evinced for this watering place, (of which the inhabitants can so readily take advantage,) is every day adding to the number of its visitors, and thereby contributing to the further extension of the original plan. A commodious and elegant hotel has been erected, where casual visitors and others, in conjunction with the allurements of a well-served table, can enjoy the exhilarating prospect of the sea, and the numberless vessels of all denominations that stud and traverse its waters. For the accommodation of the resident population, a reservoir, containing nearly two thousand gallons of water, has been constructed, and supplied from a fine spring on the beach.

The Fort and Lighthouse are objects well deserving of attention. The former is very strongly built, and covers a space of nearly four thousand yards. It is approached from the main land by means of a drawbridge, and mounts sixteen pieces of cannon with others in the embrasures of the towers. On account of the great sandbank at the entrance of the river, it is ordered that every ship of heavy burden shall pass within nine hundred yards of the Fort.

The Lighthouse is constructed of Anglesey marble, and is considered a masterpiece of its kind. It rises about ninety feet above the rock; each stone is worked to a given geometrical form, and made to lock and dovetail with those adjoining with great accuracy. The whole is cemented together by a liquid volcanic substance brought from the vicinity of Mount Ætna, which, in the course of time, becomes as hard as marble. The lantern is illuminated by revolving lights – two of which are brilliantly white, and the other of a deep red. The work is from the design of Mr. Foster, and executed by Mr. Tomkinson, at an expense to the Liverpool Corporation of twenty-seven thousand five hundred pounds.

MATLOCK, DERBYSHIRE

The reputation of the Matlock water is supported by the recorded testimony of more than a century; while the picturesque scenery in which the village is embosomed forms no small addition to its medicinal attractions. The number of invalids who resort annually to this salubrious spring appears to be on the increase, – the best criterion of the value attached to it. In the superior accommodation which it now offers to every class of visitors, nothing has been neglected that even the most fastidious can desire. Those domestic comforts, in particular, which are often of more real importance to valetudinarians than the skill of the physician, have been provided with a scrupulous exactness, which makes the stranger at Matlock feel completely at home.

Matlock, however, though so friendly to the invalid, is neither gloomy nor isolated; but to those who delight to mix in the gayer scenes of artificial life, it possesses every attraction which refined society and social intercourse can bestow. He who seeks health, and he who seeks relaxation and pleasure, may enjoy every facility which science or fashion can offer; and nowhere are the amusements better conducted, or the rules of society more strictly observed, than at Matlock.

The environs embrace some of the most striking and romantic scenery, as well as historical sites, in England; and so close at hand that many of the finest features enter into the same picture. Washed by the crystal Derwent and finely wooded, – with rocks, and fountains, and precipices, scattered at random through the charming landscape, – the visitor is tempted to pass much of his time in the open air, which accelerates the cure the water has begun. Romantic foot-paths, meandering along the rocky acclivities, and opening at short intervals upon enchanting points of view, allure the indolent to that salutary exercise which seldom fails to reward the piéton with increased strength and exhilaration of spirits. The roads in the vicinity are kept in the best possible order, and, owing to the nature of the soil, rain is so speedily carried off, or absorbed, that the invalid may indulge in out-door exercise without apprehension.