Hibiscus: Discover Fresh Flavours from West Africa with the Observer Rising Star of Food 2017

COPYRIGHT

HarperCollinsPublishers

1 London Bridge Street

London SE1 9GF

www.harpercollins.co.uk

First published by HarperCollinsPublishers 2017

FIRST EDITION

© Lopè Ariyo 2017

Cover layout design © HarperCollinsPublishers

Cover photograph © Ellis Parrinder

A catalogue record of this book is available from the British Library

Lopè Ariyo asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work

All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the nonexclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, downloaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.

Find out about HarperCollins and the environment at www.harpercollins.co.uk/green

Source ISBN 9780008225384

Ebook Edition © June 2017 ISBN 9780008225391

Version 2017-05-11

DEDICATION

For my mother,

the woman who gave me the tools, space and encouragement to dream and create (even if you didn’t initially agree with the food I conjured up)

CONTENTS

COVER

TITLE PAGE

COPYRIGHT

DEDICATION

INTRODUCTION

MY STORE CUPBOARD

FRUIT, VEGETABLES AND TUBERS

BELL PEPPER SOUP

EGUSI SOUP

ATA SALAD

OKRA AND MANGO SALAD

FROZEN WATERMELON AND CUCUMBER SALAD

FENNEL AND MANGO SLAW

HASSELBACK PLANTAINS WITH MUSHROOM STEAK

OKELE

EBA

AMALA ISU

PLANTAIN MASH WITH GINGER CORN AND OKRA GRAVY

AMALA CRACKERS WITH ONIONS GALORE

NIGERIAN ROASTED VEG

SWEET POTATO MEDLEY WITH A TARRAGON DRESSING

UNCLE YOMI’S BAKED EGGS WITH YAM

YAM POTTAGE

GRAINS AND PULSES

CORN SOUP

BEAN SOUP

BLACK RICE BALLS

JOLLOF RICE

JOLLOF CAULIFLOWER ‘RICE’

FRIED COCONUT RICE

PLANTAIN, BEAN AND AVOCADO RICE SALAD

ABEOKUTA BOWL

BELL PEPPERS STUFFED WITH CARROT RICE FUFU

HERBY MILLET WITH GREEN BEANS

ONION MILLET WITH ROASTED GARRI TOMATOES

BEAN FRITTERS

MOIN MOIN

JAND BOWL

SAVOURY MILLET PORRIDGE

RICE CRUMPET

FISH AND SEAFOOD

CRAB AND YAM PEPPER SOUP

SEA BASS AND AUBERGINE SOUP

BAOBAB AND SMOKED SALMON SOUP

SEAFOOD OKRA SOUP

MACKEREL AND ABACHA SALAD

HIBISCUS AND SUMAC PRAWNS

GUAVA SALMON CAKES

EGUSI PRAWN BALLS

IJEBU FISH ROLLS

BAKED AYAMASE TILAPIA ROLL UPS

SEARED SCALLOPS IN GRAPEFRUIT SAUCE

MORINGA AND LEMON SCALLOPS

CHARGRILLED SCOTCH SQUID

CASSAVA STUFFED MUSSELS

PEANUT AND GARRI CALAMARI RINGS

TUNA SKEWERS WITH OVEN-BAKED PLANTAIN WEDGES

OSUN’S SOLE

ATAMA LOBSTER TAILS

PRAWN CURRY

SPICY GRILLED TILAPIA

BAKED KULI KULI COD WITH CAYENNE YAM CHIPS

LEMON AND THYME SEA BASS WITH GARDEN EGG CROQUETTES

STICKY PINEAPPLE COD

PALM OIL HALIBUT BAKED IN UMA LEAVES

BAOBAB TROUT

MEAT AND POULTRY

MUM’S GRILLED CHICKEN DRUMSTICKS

HIBISCUS CHICKEN

MALT-GLAZED CHICKEN WINGS

AMINA’S CHICKEN

ROAST GRAPEFRUIT AND TURMERIC CHICKEN

PUMPKIN SOUP WITH TURKEY

GRILLED NIGERIAN BASIL TURKEY

DUCK LEGS IN GUAVA SAUCE

KOLA BUTTERFLIED GUINEA FOWL

PINEAPPLE AND HIBISCUS STUFFED PORK LOIN

PALM WINE PORK CHOPS

NIGERIAN-STYLE MEATBALLS

STICKY TAMARIND PORK RIBS

SUYA LAMB CURRY

NIGERIAN-STYLE LAMB PIES

SPINACH AND LAMB STEW

BAOBAB LAMB CUTLETS

BEEF AND AMALA STEW POT

MALT BRAISED BEEF

SUYA BEEF BURGERS

MORINGA AND BEEF STEW WITH BEAN DUMPLINGS

STACKED SHANGO BEEF STEAKS

SEARED VENISON IN UDA SAUCE

BAKING AND DESSERTS

BRAIDED AGEGE BREAD

PUFF PUFF

CHOCOLATE CHILLI PUFF PUFF

HIBISCUS DRIZZLE PUFF PUFF

ABIGAIL’S SPICY BANANA BREAD

GARRI AND CACAO BARS

PEANUT AND TOFFEE BARS

CHIN CHIN

COFFEE CHIN CHIN

LEMON CHIN CHIN

AMALA CHOCOLATE MUFFINS

KULI KULI

HIBISCUS AND COCONUT CAKE

CHEAT’S OGI

MANGO OGI TART

PLANTAIN CRÊPES

LAGOS MESS

HIBISCUS POACHED PEARS

GRAPEFRUIT AND GUAVA CHEESECAKE

PLANTAIN ICE CREAM

PEANUT POPCORN

MADAM KOIN KOIN

MANGO AND COCONUT PARFAIT

LIST OF SEARCHABLE TERMS

CONVERSION CHARTS

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

ABOUT THE PUBLISHER

INTRODUCTION

My experiences from childhood, school and university have shaped the way I cook and my food has become an expression of who I am. Born and raised in London, I have very early memories of taking trips to Brixton or Croydon market with my mother, Debbie, on Saturdays. We would always visit the vegetable stalls first, followed by the meat and fish stalls where I would do my best to hold my breath for as long as I could. The market was always so congested that I stayed glued to my mother for fear that I would get lost. When we got back home, I would help out in the kitchen as she prepared something like tomato stew or okra soup. I can vividly recall my mother blending and frying the tomatoes, finely chopping the okra and pounding ground rice in hot water with a wooden spoon. The splashes of tomato juice would trickle down the tiles as the stew boiled aggressively, the stove would sizzle as some of the okra soup escaped the pot and, to the delight of my nose, the smell of caramelized chicken crept slowly from the oven. Her approach to cooking has always been to create dishes that are quick and easy. This weekend ritual provided my first experiences of Nigerian cooking.

My mother raised me to be hardworking, honest and independent, and she also thought it was important for me to learn about my Nigerian roots and to connect with my extended family and culture. So in 2003, I went to an all-girls boarding school in Lagos, Nigeria. Initially it was daunting, but as I made friends and got into the routine, I became more open to the Lagos way of life. I came back to London for secondary school, bringing with me a strong sense of culture, solid friendships and an enriched appreciation of Nigerian food. I started cooking more and more, alternating between British and Nigerian meals to keep my cravings for the aromatic flavours to which I’d become accustomed at bay. I would mimic the dishes of beans and plantains or yam and spicy tomato stew that we were served at boarding school – simple dishes that were perfect for weekdays.

I met my closest friends in the sixth form and during our free periods, we would go to the shop to buy sandwiches, Scotch eggs, sausage rolls, cakes and elderflower and blackcurrant cordials to have mini picnics. Since not one of us had the same ethnic background, we’d always bring a dish that represented our own cultural history, too. We taught each other about ingredients and introduced each other to new flavours, and I discovered how joyful it was to invite them over and cook for them. This was one of the things I missed most when I first went to university. When I rang home, my mother would usually ask ‘Have you eaten?’ or ‘Are you hungry?’, as is the norm with most West African parents when their children are sad or moody. I found solace from homesickness in the kitchen and soon my housemates, who knew little about Nigerian culture, came to rely on me for ingredient and spice suggestions. We ended up cooking meals together, whether British, Nigerian or a mix of both cuisines. I realized that in the kitchen I was able to create a home away from home, no matter where I was.

For me, British and Nigerian influences are equally important – I like to merge the best aspects of both. I love the combinations of ingredients (especially the spices) used in Nigeria and West Africa, whereas British or European cooking tends to offer more time-effective methods. I am passionate about West African food because it promotes the use of fresh, natural ingredients and the emphasis is on taking care of your body without overthinking things. Our food is all about caring and hospitality – bringing people closer together and making people feel happy. Behind each dish, there is a story to share.

Globalization and multiculturalism are doing much to promote West African food and culture in the UK. However, there aren’t many high-profile figures who champion West African food in this country, so I want to share my culture and inspire other British Africans to tell their stories through food. I think representation matters, so if someone can see a little bit of themselves in me, I hope they’re encouraged to pursue their own ideas and express themselves through what they cook as I have done. More than ever before, African foods are readily available in supermarkets and online. Despite this, they’re not bought as much as they might be because there’s little understanding of how to use these ingredients. I’ve witnessed people trying West African food and I’ve seen the intrigue it sparks on their taste buds – they want to know about the flavours and how to make it. There are a growing number of cafés and restaurants serving West African food, but recreating these dishes at home is still out of reach for many.

Hibiscus is my first cookbook and I hope to show you a glimpse of what West African-inspired food has to offer. From over 200 of the ethnic groups in Nigeria, I’ve primarily focused on the cuisine of three: Yoruba, Igbo and Hausa. My aim is to create fresh, flavourful meals for every occasion. There are ingredients that you may never have come across (although I’ll always try to provide an alternative where possible) and new cooking methods and techniques to try, too. You’ll also find British classics with a Nigerian twist and rejuvenated recipes for everyday staples that make use of underappreciated flavour combinations. I hope these recipes can transform your cooking into something spectacular, the way they have mine.

MY STORE CUPBOARD

It’s much easier to find ingredients that are used in Nigeria in Western supermarkets nowadays, especially if you live in a city. I must confess that I am a big online food shopper – a habit (or skill, in my opinion!) I picked up at university. So, if you struggle to find anything that features in the book, do have a browse online. Many of the ingredients used in Nigerian cuisine can also be found in health-food stores, as they’re considered superfoods here.

In Hibiscus, you’ll find a few exotic ingredients that you may never before have associated with Nigeria. I’m hoping (and happy!) to introduce you to some new ingredients, too. I love to experiment with novel flavours and find it incredibly rewarding, particularly when I serve something and an inquisitive look comes across everyone’s face – tasting something they’ve never experienced, something they can’t quite put their finger on. Below are my go-to ingredients and I’ve provided a description of the slightly more unusual ones.

FRESH INGREDIENTS

1. YAMS

2. CASSAVA

3. SWEET POTATO

4. SHALLOT

5. GINGER

6. MANGO

7. PEPPERS

8. TURMERIC

9. LONG RED CHILLI

10. GARLIC

11. SCOTCH BONNET CHILLI

12. LIME

13. AVOCADO

14. OKRA

15. GARDEN EGGS

16. PLANTAINS

YAMS are tubers with an inedible dark brown bark and a white flesh that should be completely soft before being eaten. When cooked, yams are very similar in texture to Maris Piper potatoes, but with more natural sweetness. Typically, they’re eaten boiled but you can cook yams just as you would cook potatoes. They’re also dried out in the sun and processed to make a flour (labelled elubo isu in African grocery stores), which can be used for Okele or to make dumplings (Beef and Amala Stew Pot) and muffins (Amala Chocolate Muffins).

CASSAVA is a large tuber with brown bark and hard, white flesh. When cooked, it has a somewhat tangy, sourdough-like taste. Like most tubers, it can be eaten boiled, steamed, roasted or fried. It’s also milled into a flour that is typically used for making Okele, or processed to make garri.

SCOTCH BONNET CHILLI is an essential aromatic used in Nigeria, where many people like their food extremely spicy. It’s fine, however, to use regular long chillies if you’re not keen on extra-spicy food.

OKRA, also called lady fingers, are green pods with white seeds, generally no bigger than the size of a finger. They can be eaten raw and turn slimy when overcooked. Quite plain in taste, okra are great at absorbing flavours from herbs, spices and other vegetables.

GARDEN EGGS are not to be confused with eggplants (the American name for aubergines), although they belong to the same family and are similar in texture, albeit slightly softer. They’re round and white in colour (hence the name), and are best eaten cooked. I enjoy them roasted and eaten with other vegetables, such as in my Nigerian Roasted Veg.

PLANTAINS look similar to bananas (they are a member of the same family), but are much larger and also have squarer ends. They’re also less sweet, which makes them incredibly versatile, and they can be used in sweet and savoury dishes.

HERBS AND SPICES

1. CAYENNE PEPPER

2. EFIRIN

3. EGUSI SEEDS

4. DRIED BIRDSEYE CHILLIES

5. DRIED OREGANO

6. CLOVES

7. COCONUT FLAKES

8. HIBISCUS

9. PAPRIKA

10. BAOBAB

11. PEPPERCORNS

12. NUTMEG

13. DRIED BAY LEAVES

14. CUMIN SEEDS

15. CASSAVA FLOUR

16. CHILLI FLAKES

17. FINE-CUT DRIED HIBISCUS

18. DRIED THYME

19. CINNAMON

20. GARLIC GRANULES

21. UDA

22. GARLIC

23. GROUND GINGER

24. GROUND TURMERIC

25. CELERY SALT

CAROB

MORINGA

PALM JUICE, WINE AND VINEGAR

RED PALM OIL

KOLA NUTS

GARRI

BEAN FLOUR

ATAMA

CAYENNE PEPPER is used a lot in Nigerian cooking – usually dried whole peppers rather than its powdered form. Nigerian dishes are more likely to be seasoned with cayenne pepper than black pepper because of Nigerian fondness for spice.

EFIRIN, also known as clove basil, is a herb with waxy, jagged leaves. It is primarily used to flavour soups in Nigeria, although it’s so versatile that I use it in all sorts of dishes. Common basil is a good substitute.

EGUSI SEEDS are found inside gourds such as pumpkins and melons. They’re like very flat blanched almonds in appearance, and emit a nutty aroma when toasted. Generally, they’re ground and used to thicken soups and stews.

HIBISCUS is a purplish-red flower with a zesty cranberry flavour. The petals are often dried, so it can be enjoyed all year round. It’s an incredibly versatile ingredient and can be used in savoury dishes with meats and in sweet recipes, too.

BAOBAB trees produce pods, in which you will find the fruit – cubes that look like fluffy, white marshmallows. In Nigeria, the fruit is snacked on because of its refreshing taste. For export, it’s generally dried and processed to a nutrient-packed powder that can be found in health stores. The leaves of the baobab tree are also used for adding flavour to soups and stews.

UDA, also called Selim pepper, is native to West Africa and is often used in stews and soups. It looks like a vanilla pod, only with a thicker exterior, and the berries inside are chestnut brown with a fragrant, lemony-wood scent. They’re used in the marinade for a popular Nigerian street food, suya.

CAROB, or locust bean, is a tropical pod containing a sweet pulp that is dried and ground to a chocolatey brown powder.

MORINGA is a tree widely cultivated in northern Nigeria, where its leaves are primarily eaten in soups. Its powdered form is a vivid green colour not dissimilar from matcha powder. It has a sharp taste with nutty accents.

PALM JUICE, WINE AND VINEGAR are made from palm tree sap. Upon extraction, it is a naturally sweet juice. Within a few hours, it ferments and turns to wine with a low alcohol content. Left much longer, it turns to palm vinegar.

RED PALM OIL has a unique sweet flavour with mild hints of carrot and is a similar consistency to coconut oil. In West Africa it is harvested sustainably and used in its raw form. Try to find brands that responsibly source their palm oil. If you can’t find palm oil, you can cook with any other oil but the flavour and colour won’t be the same – I’ve pointed out when really only palm oil will do!

KOLA NUTS are the main flavouring in a certain popular soft drink. The reddish-brown nut is high in caffeine and generally tastes bitter, so is often mixed with sugar. In Igbo culture, they are usually eaten whole and offered as a sign of hospitality.

GARRI is cassava that has been completely dried in the sun and shredded down to breadcrumb size. It is used to make Eba or is soaked in water and eaten like breakfast cereal with a sprinkling of sugar.

BEAN FLOUR is most commonly made from brown honey beans in Nigeria. They’re de-hulled, dried and milled, and the resulting off-white flour is typically used to make Moin Moin, a steamed bean cake, and Akara, bean fritters.

ATAMA is a herb with a liquorice-like scent, very similar to tarragon, which can be used as a substitute, although its leaves are much wider – more like those of the bay tree. It can be used dried or fresh, but the former has a much more intense flavour.

BELL PEPPER SOUP

Obe Ata (Yoruba)

It wouldn’t be right to have a Nigerian cookbook and not include Obe Ata. Obe means soup in Yoruba and ata means pepper. In Nigeria, soups are usually made by blending the ingredients first and then cooking them in oils and flavoured stock. When made this way, they develop a vibrant colour. Most are ruby red, rich gold or bright, emerald green, encapsulating Nigerian food to a T: rich in flavour and beautiful to look at. This recipe is really quite spicy, so feel free to reduce or omit the chilli according to your taste buds! Serve with some Agege Bread or brioche, with rice spooned on top, or with Okele.

PREP TIME: 10 MINS

COOKING TIME: 20 MINS

SERVES: 4

2 large red peppers, chopped

4 salad tomatoes, halved

2 white onions, halved

2 celery sticks, chopped (optional)

4cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped (optional)

2 tbsp palm oil or coconut oil

1 beef, chicken or vegetable stock cube

1 tsp garlic granules

1/2 tsp ground cloves

1 tbsp carob powder (optional)

2 Scotch bonnet chillies, deseeded (if preferred) and finely chopped