The Toilet of Flora

119. Method of extracting Essences from Flowers

Procure a wooden box lined with tin, that the wood may not communicate any disagreeable flavour to the Flowers, nor imbibe the Essence. Make several straining frames to fit the Box, each about two inches thick, and drive in them a number of hooks, on which fix a piece of callicoe stretched tight. The utmost care is requisite, to have the straining cloths perfectly clean and dry before they are used.

After having caused the cloths to imbibe as much Oil of Ben as possible, squeeze them a little, then stretch and fix them on the hooks of the frames; put one frame thus completed at the bottom of the box, and upon its cloth strow equally those flowers, the essence of which you intend to extract; cover them with another frame, on the cloth of which you are to strow more flowers, and continue to act in the same manner till the box is quite filled. The frames being each about two inches thick, the flowers undergo very little pressure, though they lye between the cloths. At the expiration of twelve hours, apply fresh flowers in the same manner, and continue so to do for some days. When you think the scent powerful enough, take the cloths from the frames, fold them in four, roll them up, and tie them tight with a piece of whip-cord, to prevent their stretching out too much, then put them into a press, and squeeze out the oil. The press must be lined with tin, that the wood may not imbibe any part of the oil. Place underneath a very clean earthen or glass vessel to receive the essence, which is to be kept in bottles nicely corked.

The essence of one kind of flower only, can be made in a box at the same time, for the scent of one would impair that of another. For the same reason, the cloths that have been used to extract the essence of any particular flower, cannot be used to extract the essence of another, till washed clean in a strong lye, and thoroughly dried in the open air. This method is of great use to obtain the scent of flowers which afford no Essential Oil by distillation, such as Tuberoses, Jasmine, and several others.

120. Or,

Take any flowers you please, and put them in a large jar, layer by layer, mixed with Salt, as directed for inflammable Spirit of Roses, till the jar is quite full; then cork it tight, and let it stand in a cellar, or some other cool place, for forty days; at the expiration of which time, empty the whole into a sieve, or straining cloth, stretched over the mouth of a glazed earthen or stone pan, to receive the essence that drains from the flowers upon squeezing them gently. Afterwards put the essence into a glass bottle, which must not be filled above two thirds; cork it tight, and expose it to the heat of the sun in fine weather, five and twenty or thirty days, to purify the essence, a single drop of which will be capable of scenting a quart of Water or any other Liquid.

121. Essence of Ambergrise

Take of Ambergrise a quarter of an ounce; the same quantity of Sugar Candy; Musk, half a drachm; and Civet, two grains; rub them together, and put the mixture into a Phial: pour upon it a quarter of a pint of tartarised Spirit of Wine, stop close the Phial, which set in a gentle sand heat for four or five days, and then decant the clear Tincture for use. This makes the best of perfumes; the least touch of it leaves its scent upon any thing a great time; and in constitutions where such sweets are not offensive to the head, nothing can be a more immediate Cordial.

122. A Remedy for St. Anthony's Fire or Erysipelatous Eruptions on the Face

Take Narcissus Roots, an ounce; fresh Nettle-seeds, half an ounce; beat them together into a soft Paste with a sufficient quantity of White Wine Vinegar, and anoint the eruptions therewith every night; or, bathe the part affected with the Juice of Cresses.

123. Manner of drying Flowers, so as to preserve their natural Colours

Take fine White Sand, wash it repeatedly, till it contains not the least earth or salt, then dry it for use. When thoroughly dry, fill a glass or stone jar half full of Sand, in which stick the Flowers in their natural situation, and afterwards cover them gently with the same, about the eighth part of an inch above the Flower. Place the glass in the sun, or, if in winter-time, in a room where a constant fire is kept, till the Flower is perfectly dried. Then remove the Sand with the utmost precaution, and clean the Leaves with a feather brush. Particular Flowers lose in some measure their natural lively colours, but this may be helped by the assistance of art.

Roses and other Flowers of a delicate colour, recover their natural lustre by being exposed to a moderate vapour of Brimstone; but Crimson or Scarlet Flowers, by being exposed to the vapour of a solution of Tin in Spirit of Nitre. The vapour of a solution of Filings of Steel in Spirit of Vitriol, restores to the Leaves and Stalk, their primitive green colour. This method succeeds perfectly well in single Flowers. There are some difficulties with respect to Pinks, Carnations, and other double Flowers; to succeed with them, split the cup on each side, and when the Flower is quire dry, glue it together with Gum-water; or prick the cup in different parts with a large pin.

As to the scent, which is in great measure lost in drying, it may be restored, by dropping into the middle of the Flower a drop of its Essential Oil; for instance, a drop of Oil of Roses on a Rose, Oil of Cloves on a Clove-july-flower, Oil of Jasmine on a Jasmine Flower.

124. A Secret to preserve Flowers

Fill an earthen, copper, or wooden vessel half full of sifted Sand, then fill it up to the brim with clear Spring Water, and stir the Sand well with a stick in order to detach the earthy particles. When the Sand has thoroughly settled, pour off the turbid Water by inclination, add fresh Water, and continue to wash the Sand, till all the Water that floats on its surface remains perfectly clear. The Sand being thus cleansed, expose it to the heat of the sun a sufficient time, to exhale entirely its humidity. Prepare for every Flower an earthen or tin vessel of a proper size, make choice of the finest, most perfect, and driest Flowers of their respective kinds, and be careful to leave the stalks of a good length. Place them upright in the vessel, with one hand as lightly as possible, about two or three inches below the rims, so as not to touch the sides, or each other; and with the other hand gradually pour on them the Sand till the stalk is quite covered; then lightly cover the Flower itself, separating the Leaves a little. The Tulip requires a farther operation. The triangular top that rises out of the middle of the cup, must be cut off, by which means the Leaves of the Flower will adhere better to the Stalk. When the vessel is filled with Flowers, leave it a month or two exposed to the rays of the sun; and the Flowers when taken out, though dry, will be very little inferior in beauty to new-blown Flowers, but will have lost their scent.

125. Another Secret to preserve Flowers

Take the finest River Sand you can get, after having sifted it several times through a fine sieve, throw it into a glass vessel full of clear Water, and rub it a good while between your fingers to render it still finer; then pour off the Water by inclination, and dry the Sand in the sun. The Sand being thus prepared, bury the Flowers gently in it with their Leaves and Stalk, disposing them in such a manner that their form may not be in the least injured. After having thus kept Flowers some time, till their humid particles are entirely evaporated, take them out, and inclose them in bottles, well corked; secure them from all changes of the atmosphere, but let them enjoy a temperate warmth; for if the heat is too great, the colours fade; and if not kept sufficiently warm, the humidity of the Flowers will not wholly evaporate.

126. Another Method of preserving Flowers a long while, in their natural Shape and Colour

Take the finest River Sand, divested of whatever impurities it may contain; then dry it in the sun or a stove, sift it through a sieve, and only make use of the finest part. Procure a Tin Box, or a Wooden Box lined with Tin, of any size you think proper, cover the bottom of the Box three or four inches deep with prepared Sand, and stick in it the Stalks of the Flowers in rows, but in such a manner that none of the Flowers may touch each other, afterwards filling the vacuities between the Stalks with Sand. Then spread the Sand all round the Flowers, which cover with a layer about two or three inches thick. Put this Box in a place exposed to the sun, or in some warm situation, for the space of a month. With respect to Tulips, the pistil that rises in the middle, and contains the Seed, must be dexterously cut out, and the empty space filled with Sand: too many Flowers should not be put into the same Box, nor should the Box be too large.

127. White Gloves Scented With Jasmine after the Italian manner

Take half an ounce of White Wax; dissolve it over a gentle fire in two ounces of Oil of Ben. Dress your skins with this Liquid, dry them on lines, and clean them well with the purest water; when they are dried and properly stretched, make them up into gloves, which are to have the Jasmine Flowers applied to them eight days according to the usual method; then bring them into shape, and fold them smooth. This manner of working them up, communicates to the gloves the property of retaining the scent of the Flowers much better than those that are drest otherwise, and likewise imparts to them the virtue of preserving the hands and arms delicately soft and white.

128. Gloves scented without Flowers

Take an ounce of Liquid Storax, an ounce of Rose-wood, the same quantity of Florentine Orrice, and half an ounce of Yellow Sanders. Beat the three last articles into a very fine powder, and add to it the Storax, with the earths that you use to dye your gloves, and a little Gum Arabic. Then take an equal quantity of Rose and Orange Flower Water, to temper this composition which you lay on your gloves; when they are dry, rub them well, and fold them up; then dress them afresh with a little Gum Water, in which has been dissolved some powder of Florentine Orrice; hang them up to dry, and afterwards bring them into form, and fold them up as fit for use.

129. White Gloves scented with Ketmia or Musk Seed

Take an ounce of Yellow Sanders, an ounce of Florentine Orrice, an ounce of Gum Benjamin, two ounces of Rose-wood, and a drachm of Storax; reduce the whole to fine powder, with as much Ceruss as you choose. Mix them with Rose-water, and dress your gloves with the mixture as neatly as you can for the first coat; then rub them well, and open them when they are thoroughly dry. Use the same for the second coat, with the addition of a little Gum Arabic. For the third coat, levigate on a marble, eight grains of Ketmia Seed, four grains of Civet, a little Oil of Ben, and a very little Gum Tragacanth, dissolved in Rose-water; add to this composition a quarter of a pint of Orange Flower Water; after having applied this third coat to your gloves, bring them into form, before they get thoroughly dry.

130. To colour Gloves a curious French Yellow

Take Chalk and Wood Ashes, of each an equal quantity, and make a strong Lye of them; then strain off the clear Liquor, and simmer it over the fire with a little Turmeric in powder, and a very little Saffron, till it becomes pretty thick; after which set the liquor by to cool, and it is fit for use.

131. An excellent Perfume for Gloves

Take Ambergrise, a drachm; the same quantity of Civet; and of Orange Flower Butter, a quarter of an ounce; mix these ingredients well, and rub them into the gloves with fine Cotton Wool, pressing the perfume into them.

132. Or,

Take of Essence of Roses, half an ounce; Oil of Cloves and Mace, of each a drachm; Frankincense, a quarter of an ounce; mix them, and lay them in papers between your gloves. Being hard pressed, the gloves will take the scent in twenty-four hours, and afterwards hardly ever lose it.

133. An excellent Receipt to clear a tanned Complexion

At night going to rest, bathe the face with the Juice of Strawberries, and let it lie on the part all night, and in the morning wash yourself with Chervil Water. The skin will soon become fair and smooth.

134. Or,

Wash yourself with the Mucilage of Linseed, Fleawort, Gum Tragacanth, or Juice of Purslain mixed with the White of an Egg.

135. To sweeten the Breath

At night, going to bed, chew about the quantity of a small Nut of fine Myrrh.

136. Or,

Chew every night and morning a Clove, a piece of Florentine Orrice-root, about the size of a small bean, or the same quantity of Burnt Alum.

137. A Cosmetic Oil

Take a quarter of a pint of Oil of Sweet Almonds, fresh drawn; two ounces of Oil of Tartar per Deliquium; and four drops of Oil of Rhodium: mix the whole together, and make use of it to cleanse and soften the skin.

138. Another Cosmetic Oil

Take a pint of Cream, infuse in it a few Water Lilies, Bean Flowers, and Roses; simmer the whole together in a vapour-bath, and keep the Oil that proceeds from it in a vial, which is to be left for some time exposed to the evening dews.

139. Oil of Wheat

This Oil is extracted by an Iron Press, in the same manner as Oil of Almonds. It is excellent for Chaps in either the lips or hands, tetterous eruptions, and rigidity of the skin.

140. Compound Oil, or Essence of Fennel

Take five pints of the best French Brandy, and the same quantity of White-Wine; three quarters of a pound of bruised Fennel Seeds, and half an ounce of Liquorice Root sliced and bruised. Put the whole into an alembic, close the mouth with Parchment, and set it in a hot house, or in hot ashes, two days; then distil off the Liquor with an uniform middling fire. What remains after the distillation of the Essence, and is called the White Drops, is only fit to wash the hands with.

141. To make Oil of Tuberoses and Jasmine

Bruise a little the Tuberoses or Jasmine Flowers in a marble mortar with a wooden pestle; put them into a proper vessel, with a sufficient quantity of Oil of Olives, and let them stand in the sun in a close stopped vessel twelve or fifteen days to infuse; at the expiration of which time, squeeze the Oil from the Flowers. Let the Oil stand in the sun to settle, then pour it clear off the dregs. This Oil is very fragrant, and well impregnated with the Essential Oil of these Flowers. Infuse a fresh parcel of Flowers, newly gathered, in the same Oil, and proceed as before: repeat this operation twelve or fourteen times, or even oftener if necessary, till the Oil is fully impregnated with the flavour of the Flowers. Some people use Oil of Ben instead of Sallad Oil, which in our opinion is preferable, being infinitely less apt to grow rancid. The Oils of Tuberoses, and Jasmine Flowers are of use for the Toilet on account of their fragrancy. There are cases in which they may be successfully used externally by way of friction, to comfort and strengthen the nerves, and brace up the skin when too much relaxed.

142. An Oil scented with Flowers for the Hair

Sallad Oil, Oil of Sweet Almonds, and Oil of Nuts, are the only ones used for scenting the hair.

Blanch your Almonds in Hot Water, and when dry, reduce them to powder; sift them through a fine sieve, strewing a thin layer of Almond-powder, and one of Flowers, over the bottom of the Box lined with Tin. When the box is full, leave them in this situation about twelve hours; then throw away the Flowers, and add fresh ones in the same manner as before, repeating the operation every day for eight successive days. When the Almond-powder is thoroughly impregnated with the scent of the Flower made choice of, put it into a new clean Linen Cloth, and with an Iron Press extract the Oil, which will be strongly scented with the fragrant perfume of the Flower.

143. Essential Oil, commonly called Quintessence of Lavender

Fill a cucurbit two thirds full with unwashed Lavender Flowers, pour upon them as much clear Water as will float about two inches above the Flowers. Fit to the cucurbit a head with a short neck, and lute on the refrigeratory vessel. Distil in the common manner with a fire of such a degree of strength as will cause the distilled water to run off in a thick thread. The phlegm and spirit will come over in a considerable quantity, and the Essential Oil, with which Lavender greatly abounds, will soon appear floating on the surface of the Water in the receiver; which is to be separated according to the rules of art. As soon as you perceive that no more Oil drops into the receiver, which generally happens to be the case a good while before the phlegm is entirely drawn off, finish your distillation. If you want a larger quantity of Quintessence, empty the still, put fresh Flowers, and adding the phlegm and spirit drawn off by the former distillation, instead of so much common Water, distil as before, till you have obtained a sufficient quantity. This Quintessence possesses great medicinal virtues, and is particularly serviceable in vapourish and hysteric disorders.

144. To make Essence of Cinnamon

Take half a pound of Cinnamon, reduce it in a mortar to an impalpable powder, put it into a very long necked matrass, pour on it as much highly rectified Spirit of Wine as will cover the powder about an inch. Stop the matrass with a found cork coated with bees-wax, and expose it to the sun for a whole month, observing to shake it well twice a day. At the expiration of the month, uncork the matrass, using the utmost precaution not to disturb the sediment; and gently pour off the Tincture into a clean vial.

145. To make Quintessence of Cloves

Take a pound of Cloves, beat them in a mortar, put them into a glass vessel, and pour on them a gallon of hot but not boiling water, cork the bottle close with a waxed cork, placed in a warm place, and let the Cloves infuse three weeks or a month; then empty the contents of the bottle into a middling sized still, fit on a low head with a short neck, and distil in the common manner, with a fire of such a degree of fierceness as to make the distilled Water run off in a stream, resembling a thick thread. The Quintessence will come over with the Spirit, mixed with a large quantity of Phlegm; but being heavier than either of those substances, will be found precipitated to the bottom of the receiver. Separate it in the usual manner, and keep it for use in a vial closely corked. Then unlute your still, and throw in the spirituous Water that remains after the separation of the Quintessence; distil it a second time, and you will obtain a small quantity more, which may be added to the former.

146. A Cosmetic Juice

Make a hole in a Lemon, fill it with Sugar Candy, and close it nicely with leaf Gold applied over the Rind that was cut out; then roast the Lemon in hot ashes. When desirous of using the Juice, squeeze out a little through the hole, and wash the face with a napkin wetted with it. This Juice greatly cleanses the skin, and brightens the complexion.

147. A safe and approved Cosmetic

Take equal parts of Gum Benjamin, and Storax, and dissolve them in a sufficient quantity of Spirit of Wine. The spirit will then become a reddish Tincture, and exhale a very fragrant smell. Some people add a little Balm of Gilead. Drop a few Drops into a glass of clear Water, and the Water, by stirring, will instantly become milky. Ladies use it successfully to clear the complexion, for which purpose nothing is better, or indeed so innocent and safe.

148. Another, very easily made

Beat a quantity of Houseleek in a marble mortar, squeeze out the Juice and clarify it. When you want to use it, pour a few drops of rectified Spirit on the Juice, and it will instantly turn milky. It is a very efficacious remedy for a pimpled face, and preserves the skin soft and smooth.

149. Another

Take a half-gallon bottle, pour into it a quart of Spirit of Wine, and a pint of clear Brandy; then add a quarter of a pound of the finest Gum Benjamin, two ounces of Storax, half an ounce of Cinnamon, two drachms of Cloves, and a Nutmeg, all bruised, and four drops of Quintessence of Egyptian Ketmia. Carefully cork the bottle, and expose it to the sun a month; but take it within doors in rainy weather. At the month's end, gently draw off the clear Tincture; and you will have a fragrant Milk, which is used by pouring a few drops on a wet napkin.

150. A Liniment to destroy Vermin

Take an ounce of Vinegar, the same quantity of Stavesacre, half an ounce of Honey, and half an ounce of Sulphur; mix into the consistence of a soft liniment, with two ounces of Sallad Oil.

151. A Lotion to strengthen the Gums, and sweeten the Breath

Take Mountain Wine, and the distilled Water of Bramble Leaves, of each a pint; half an ounce of Cinnamon; a quarter of an ounce of Cloves; the same quantity of Seville Orange-peel; Gum Lacque and Burnt Alum, of each a drachm, all in fine powder. Having added two ounces of fine Honey, put the whole into a glass bottle, and let them infuse on hot ashes the space of four days. On the fifth day squeeze the Liquor through a thick linen cloth, and preserve it in a bottle, well corked.