The Toilet of Flora
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192. Or,
Take an ounce of Oil of Sweet Almonds cold drawn, a drachm of fresh Mutton Suet, and a little bruised Alkanet Root; simmer the whole together. Instead of Oil of Sweet Almonds you may use Oil of Jasmine, or the Oil of any other Flower, if you choose the Lip-salve should have a fragrant scent.
193. Or,
Take Oil of Violets, and the expressed Juice of Mallows, of each an ounce and a half; Goose Grease and Veal Marrow, of each a quarter of an ounce; Gum Tragacanth, a drachm and a half; melt the whole over a gentle fire.
194. Or,
Take half a pound of fresh Butter, a quarter of a pound of Bee's Wax, four or five ounces of cleansed Black Grapes, and about an ounce of bruised Alkanet Root; simmer them together over a slow fire till the Wax is wholly dissolved, and the mixture become of a bright red colour; then strain, and set it by for use.
195. Or,
Take Deer or Goat's Suet, six ounces; Hog's Lard, four ounces: cut them into little bits, and wash them five or six different times in White Wine; then by hard pressure squeeze out every drop of the Wine. Melt the fats in a new-glazed earthen pan with half an ounce of Orrice Roots cut in thin slices, a grated Nutmeg, two or three Pippins pared and sliced thin, a pint of Rose-water, an ounce of Bee's Wax, and half an ounce of bruised Cloves. Simmer the whole over a slow fire about half an hour; then strain through a linen cloth into a pan half full of clean Water. Let the pomatum remain in the pan till cold, then wash it well, and beat it in a marble mortar with two ounces of White Wax, till they be thoroughly incorporated. Apply a little to the lips every night going to rest; and rub it upon the hands every night and morning.
196. White Pomatum
Take an ounce of Florentine Orrice-root, half an ounce of Calamus Aromaticus, and as much Gum Benjamin, a quarter of an ounce of Rose-wood, and a quarter of an ounce of Cloves. Bruise the whole into a gross powder, tie it up in a piece of linen, and simmer it in a vapour-bath, with two pounds and a half of Hog's Lard well washed; add a couple of Pippins pared and cut into small bits, four ounces of Rose-water, and two ounces of Orange-flower Water. After the ingredients have simmered together a little while, strain off the Liquor gently, and let the Pomatum stand till cold; then put it by for use in the same manner as other pomatums.
197. Red Pomatum
Is made by adding to the above more or less Alkanet Root bruised, according to the depth of colour you would wish to impart. Simmer the Pomatum and Alkanet together, stirring the mixture with a wooden spatula, till the Pomatum is sufficiently tinged; then strain it from the Roots, and set it by for use.
198. A Pomatum to remove Redness, or Pimples in the Face
Steep in clear Water a pound of a Boar's Cheek till it becomes tolerably white, drain it quite dry, and put it into a new-glazed earthen pan with two or three pared Pippins quartered, an ounce and a half of the four Cold Seeds bruised, and a slice of Veal about the size of the palm of one's hand. Boil the whole together in a vapour-bath for four hours, then with a strong cloth squeeze out your pomatum into an earthen dish placed upon hot ashes; adding to it an ounce of White Wax, and an ounce of Oil of Sweet Almonds. Stir the pomatum well with a spatula till it become cold.
199. A Pomatum for Wrinkles
Take Juice of White Lily Roots and fine Honey, of each two ounces; melted White Wax, an ounce; incorporate the whole together, and make a pomatum. It should be applied every night, and not be wiped off till the next morning.
200. Another for the same Intention
Take six new-laid Eggs, boil them hard, take out the Yolks, and fill the cavities with Myrrh, and powdered Sugar Candy, of each equal parts. Join the Whites together neatly, and set them on a plate before the fire; mixing the Liquor that exsudes from them with an ounce of Hog's Lard. This pomatum must be applied in the morning, and be suffered to dry upon the skin, which is afterwards to be wiped with a clean fine napkin.
201. Or,
Take half an ounce of Sallad Oil, an ounce of Oil of Tartar, half an ounce of Mucilage of Quince Seeds, three quarters of an ounce of Ceruss, thirty grains of Borax, and the same quantity of Sal Gem. Stir the whole together for some time in a little earthen dish, with a wooden spatula, and apply it in the same manner as the former composition.
202. Pomatum for a red or pimpled Face
Take two pared Apples, Celery, and Fennel, of each a handful; and Barley Meal, a quarter of an ounce. Simmer the whole together a quarter of an hour in a gill of Rose-water; then add an ounce of fine Barley Meal, the Whites of four new-laid Eggs, and an ounce of Deer's Suet. Strain through a canvas bag into a dish that contains a little Rose-water; wash the pomatum well in the Rose-water, and afterwards beat it in a mortar perfectly smooth. This pomatum is to be applied frequently through the day, to remove the redness of the face, pimples, and even freckles; but to answer the last mentioned purpose, it must be continued till they are entirely effaced. To prevent their return, the person must avoid the intense heat of the sun, and hot drying winds for some time.
203. A Pomatum for the Skin
Take Oil of White Poppy Seeds, and of the four Cold Seeds, of each a gill; Spermaceti, three quarters of an ounce; White Wax, an ounce: mix them into a pomatum according to the rules of art.
A great quantity of a substance resembling Butter is extracted from the Cocoa Tree, which is excellent to mollify and nourish the skin, and has long been used for this purpose amongst the Spanish Creolian women.
204. Pomatum to make the Hair grow in a bald Part, and thicken the Hair
Take Hen's Fat, Oil of Hempseed, and Honey, of each a quarter of a pound; melt them together in an earthen pipkin, and keep the mixture stirring with a wooden spatula, till cold. This pomatum, to obtain the desired effect, must be rubbed on the part eight days successively.
205. Another Pomatum for the Hair
Cut into small pieces a sufficient quantity of Hog's Cheek, steep it eight or ten days in clean Water, which be careful to change three times a day, and every time the Water is changed, stir it well with a spatula to make the flesh white. Drain the flesh dry, and putting it into a new earthen pipkin, with a pint of Rose-water, and a Lemon stuck with Cloves, simmer them over the fire till the skum looks reddish. Skim this off, and removing the pipkin from the fire, strain the Liquor. When it has cooled, take off the fat; beat it well with cold Water, which change two or three times as occasion may require; the last time using Rose-water instead of common Water. Drain the Pomatum dry, and scent it with Violets, Tuberoses, Orange Flowers, Jasmine, Jonquils a la Reine, &c. in the following manner.
206. Manner of Scenting Pomatums for the Hair
Spread your Pomatum about an inch thick upon several dishes or plates, strewing the flowers you make choice of on one dish, and covering them with another. Change the Flowers for fresh ones every twelve hours, and continue to pursue this method for ten or twelve days; mixing the pomatum well, and spreading it out every time that fresh Flowers are added. It will soon acquire a fragrant scent, and may be used in what manner you think proper. It is good for almost every cosmetic purpose, but more particularly for the hair, which it nourishes, strengthens, preserves, and thickens.
207. Orange-Flower Pomatum
Take two pounds and a half of Hog's Lard, and three pounds of Orange Flowers; mix them together in a marble mortar; then put the mixture into an earthen vessel with some Water, and place it in a vapour-bath, where let it stand till the Lard is melted, and floats above the Flowers. When it has stood till cold, pour away the Water, and simmer in the usual manner, with three pounds of fresh Orange Flowers. Repeat the same operation twice more with two pounds of Orange Flowers each time; and the last time, while the mixture stands in infusion, add a gill of Orange-flower Water. Strain through a hair sieve held over an earthen dish; drain off the Water thoroughly when cold, and keep the Pomatum in a dry place, in a gallypot close tied over with a bladder.
In the same manner are prepared Jasmine, Jonquil, Tuberose, Lavender Pomatums, and all pomatums scented with Flowers.
208. Sultana Pomatum
This pomatum is made of Balsam of Mecca, Spermaceti, and Oil of Sweet Almonds cold drawn. It clears and preserves the complexion, and is of use for red pimpled faces.
209. A sweet smelling Perfume
Take a pound of fresh-gathered Orange Flowers, of common Roses, Lavender Seeds, and Musk Roses, each half a pound; of Sweet Marjoram Leaves, and Clove-july-flowers picked, each a quarter of a pound; of Thyme, three ounces; of Myrtle Leaves, and Melilot Stalks stripped of their Leaves, each two ounces; of Rosemary Leaves, and Cloves bruised, each an ounce; of Bay Leaves, half an ounce.
Let these ingredients be mixed in a large pan covered with parchment, and be exposed to the heat of the sun during the whole summer; for the first month stirring them every other day with a stick, and taking them within doors in rainy weather. Towards the end of the season, they will afford an excellent composition for a perfume; which may be rendered yet more fragrant, by adding a little scented Cypress-powder, mixed with coarse Violet-powder.
210. Another for the same Purpose
Take Orange Flowers, a pound; common Roses picked without the Yellow Pedicles, a pound; Clove-july-flowers picked with the White End of their Leaves cut off, half a pound; Marjoram, and Myrtle Leaves picked, of each half a pound; Musk Roses, Thyme, Lavender, Rosemary, Sage, Chamomile, Melilot, Hyssop, Sweet Basil, and Balm, of each two ounces; fifteen or twenty Bay Leaves, two or three handfuls of Jasmine, as many little Green Oranges, and half a pound of Salt. Put them in a proper vessel, and leave them together a whole month, carefully observing to stir the mixture well twice a day with a wooden spatula or spoon.
At the month's end, add twelve ounces of Florentine Orrice-root in fine powder, and the same quantity of powdered Benjamin; of Cloves, and Cinnamon finely powdered, each two ounces; Mace, Storax, Calamus Aromaticus, all in fine powder, and Cypress-powder, of each an ounce; Yellow Sanders and Cyprus or Sweet Flag, of each three quarters of an ounce. Mix the whole thoroughly, by stirring, and you will have a very fragrant perfume.
POWDERS
211. Orange-Flower Powder
Put half a pound of Orange Flowers into a box that contains twelve pounds and a half of powdered Starch; mix them well with the Starch, and stir the mixture at intervals, to prevent the Flowers from heating. At the expiration of twenty-four hours, remove the old flowers, and mix with the Starch the same quantity of fresh Orange Flowers. Continue acting in this manner for three days together, and if you think the perfume not sufficiently strong, add fresh Flowers once or twice more. The box must be kept close shut, as well after as during the operation.
212. Jonquil Powder
Take of Starch Powder and Jonquil Flowers, in the same proportion as in the preceding article; strew the Flowers among the Powder, and at the expiration of twenty hours, sift it through a coarse sieve. Then throw away the Flowers, and add to the Powder the same quantity of fresh Flowers. Continue this method four or five days, observing never to touch the Powder while the Flowers lie mixed with it; and the former will hence acquire a very agreeable perfume.
In the same manner are prepared, Hyacinth, Musk Rose, and Damask Rose Powders, &c.
213. Coarse Violet Powder
Beat separately into coarse Powder the following ingredients, viz. half a pound of dried Orange Flowers; of Lemon-peel dried, Yellow Sanders, Musk Roses, and Gum Benjamin, each a quarter of a pound; Lavender Tops dried, three ounces; of Rose Wood, Calamus Aromaticus, and Storax, each two ounces; an ounce of Sweet Marjoram, half an ounce of Cloves, two pounds of Florentine Orrice-root, and a pound of dried Provence Roses; mix the whole together. When you want to fill bags with this powder, mix a drachm of Musk and half a drachm of Civet, with a little Mucilage of Gum Tragacanth made with Angelic Water, and a little Sweet-scented Water, and rub the inside of the bag over with the composition, before you fill it with the Violet Powder.
214. Another coarse Violet Powder
Mix together a pound of Florentine Orrice-roots, half a pound of dried Orange Flowers, a quarter of a pound of Yellow Sanders; of Coriander Seeds, Sweet Flag, and of the Marc or Residuum left after making Angelic Water, each two ounces; an ounce and a half of Calamus Aromaticus, and an ounce of Cloves; bruise the whole into a coarse Powder, and keep it for use in a jar, close stopped.
215. Jasmine Powder
Powder French Chalk, sift it through a fine sieve, put it in a box, and strew on it a quantity of Jasmine Flowers; shut down the lid close, and add fresh Flowers every four and twenty hours. When the Powder is well impregnated with the scent of Jasmine, rub together a few grains of Civet, Ambergrise, and a little white Sugar Candy, and mix them with the Powder.
216. Ambrette Powder
Take six ounces of Bean Flour, and the same quantity of worm-eaten Wood, four ounces of Cyprus Wood, two ounces of Yellow Sanders, two ounces of Gum Benjamin, an ounce and a half of Storax, a quarter of an ounce of Calamus.
Aromaticus, and as much Labdanum; beat the whole into a very fine powder, and sift it through a lawn sieve. Add four grains of Ambergrise, and half an ounce of Mahaleb or Musk Seeds; mix them with the rest of the powder, and keep the whole in a bottle close stopped for use. You may put any quantity you please of this Perfume into common powder, to give it an agreeable flavour.
217. Cyprus Powder
Fill a linen bag with Oak Moss, steep it in water, which change frequently, and afterwards dry the Moss in the sun. Beat it to powder, and sprinkle it with Rose-water; then dry it again, sift it through a fine sieve, and mix with it a small quantity of any of the preceding powders.
218. Another Cyprus Powder more fragrant
Wash Oak Moss several times in pure water and dry it thoroughly; then sprinkle over it Orange Flower and Rose-water, and spread it thin upon a hurdle to dry. Afterwards place under it a chafing-dish, in which burn some Storax and Benjamin. Repeat this operation till the Moss becomes well perfumed; then beat it to fine powder, and to every pound add a quarter of an ounce of Musk, and as much Civet.
219. Perfumed Powder
Take a pound of Florentine Orrice-root, two ounces of Gum Benjamin, a pound of dried Roses, an ounce of Storax, an ounce and a half of Yellow Sanders, a quarter of an ounce of Cloves, and a small quantity of Lemon-peel; beat the whole together into fine powder, and then add twenty pounds of Starch-powder. Sift through a lawn sieve; and colour the powder according to your fancy.
220. The White Powder that enters into the Composition of the Delightful Perfume
Take a pound of Florentine Orrice-root, twelve Cuttle-fish Bones, eight pounds of Starch, and a handful of Sheep or Bullock's Bones calcined to whiteness; beat the whole into a powder, and sift it through a fine hair sieve.
221. Prepared Powder
Pour a quart of Brandy, or an ounce of highly rectified Spirit of Wine, on a pound or a pound and a half of Starch, mix them together; then dry the Starch, beat it to powder, and sift it through a fine lawn sieve. If you please you may add a little powder of Florentine Orrice-root.
222. A Powder to nourish the Hair
Take Roots of the Sweet Flag, Calamus Aromaticus, and Red Roses dried, of each an ounce and a half; Gum Benjamin, an ounce; Aloes Wood, three quarters of an ounce; Red Coral prepared, and Amber prepared, of each half an ounce; Bean Flour, a quarter of a pound, Florentine Orrice-roots, half a pound; mix the whole together, then beat into a fine powder, and add to it five grains of Musk, and the same quantity of Civet. This powder greatly promotes the regeneration of the hair, and strengthens and nourishes its roots. The property of enlivening the imagination, and helping the memory is also attributed to it.
223. Common Powder
The best Starch dried is generally the basis of all Hair-powders: as are, sometimes, worm-eaten or rotten Wood, dried Bones, or Bones calcined to whiteness, which are sifted through a fine hair sieve after they have been beaten to powder. This kind of Powder readily takes any scent, particularly that of Florentine Orrice, a root which naturally possesses a violet smell. Of these Roots, the whitest and soundest are made choice of; they are to be powdered as fine as possible, and this can only be done during the summer.
224. White Powder
Take four pounds of Starch, half a pound of Florentine Orrice-root, six Cuttle-fish Bones; Ox Bones and Sheeps Bones calcined to whiteness, of each half a handful; beat the whole together, and sift the Powder through a very fine sieve.
225. Grey Powder
To the Residuum of the preceding add a little Starch and Wood-ashes in fine powder; rub them together in a mortar some time, and then sift through a fine hair sieve.
226. Another
Take the Marc or Residuum of the White Powder, mix with it a little Starch, Yellow Ochre, and Wood-ashes or Baker's Coals to colour it. Beat the whole well in a mortar, then sift it through a hair sieve. Beat the coarser parts over again, and sift a second time; repeating these operations till all the composition has passed through the sieve.
227. Flaxen coloured Powder
Add to the White Powder a very little Yellow Ochre. The White Powder may be tinged of any colour, by adding ingredients of the colour you fancy.
228. Bean Flour
Grind any quantity of Beans, and sift the Meal through a very fine lawn sieve. It will take no other scent than that of Florentine Orrice.
229. To sweeten the Breath
Roll up a little ball of Gum Tragacanth, scent it with some odoriferous Essence or Oil, and hold it in the mouth. A little Musk may be added to the ball while rolling up, where that perfume is not disagreeable.
230. Or,
After having eat Garlic or Onions, chew a little raw Parsley. It will infallibly take away their offensive smell.
231. A Remedy for scorbutic Gums
Bruise Cinquefoil in a marble mortar, squeeze out the juice, warm it over the fire, and rub the Gums with it every night and morning.
232. A Remedy for Moist Feet
Take twenty pounds of Lee made of the Ashes of the Bay Tree, three handfuls of Bay Leaves, a handful of Sweet Flag, with the same quantity of Calamus Aromaticus, and Dittany of Crete; boil the whole together for some time, then strain off the liquor, and add two quarts of Wine. Steep your feet in this bath an hour every day, and in a short time they will no longer exhale a disagreeable smell.
FLEAS
233. A certain Method of destroying Fleas
Sprinkle the room with a decoction of Arsmart, Bitter Apple, Briar Leaves, or Cabbage Leaves; or smoke it with burnt Thyme or Pennyroyal.
234. Or,
Put Tansy Leaves about different parts of the bed, viz. under the matrass, or between the blankets.
235. Or,
Rub the bed-posts well with a strong decoction of Elder Leaves.
236. Or,
Mercurial Ointment, or a fumigation of Pennyroyal Leaves, or of Brimstone, infallibly destroys Fleas; as likewise do the fresh Leaves of Pennyroyal, tied up in a bag, and laid upon the bed.
WRINKLES
237. A Secret to take away Wrinkles
Heat an Iron Shovel red hot, throw on it some Powder of Myrrh, and receive the smoke on your face, covering the head with a napkin to prevent its being dissipated. Repeat this operation three times, then heat the Shovel again, and when fiery hot pour on it a mouthful of White Wine. Receive the vapour of the Wine also on your face, and repeat it three times. Continue this method every night and morning as long as you find occasion.
CARMINES
238. A Rouge for the Face
Alkanet Root strikes a beautiful red when mixed with Oils or Pomatums. A Scarlet or Rose-coloured Ribband wetted with Water or Brandy, gives the Cheeks, if rubbed with it, a beautiful bloom that can hardly be distinguished from the natural colour. Others only use a Red Sponge, which tinges the cheeks of a fine carnation colour.
239. Another
Alum, beat them together into a coarse powder, and boil in a sufficient quantity of Red Wine, till two thirds of the Liquor are consumed. When this decoction has stood till cold, rub a little on the cheeks with a bit of cotton.
240. The Turkish Method of preparing Carmine
Infuse, during three or four days, in a large jar filled with White Wine Vinegar, a pound of Brazil Wood Shavings of Fernambuca, having first beaten them to a coarse powder; afterwards boil them together half an hour; then strain off the Liquor through a coarse linen cloth, set it again upon the fire, and having dissolved half a pound of Alum in White Wine Vinegar, mix both Liquors together, and stir the mixture well with a spatula. The scum that rises is the Carmine; skim it off carefully, and dry it for use.
Carmine may also be made with Cochineal, or Red Sanders, instead Brazil Wood.
241. A Liquid Rouge that exactly imitates Nature
Take a pint of good Brandy, and infuse in it half an ounce of Gum Benjamin, an ounce of Red Sanders, and half an ounce of Brazil Wood, both in coarse powder; with half an ounce of Roch Alum. Cork the bottle tight, shake it well every day, and at the expiration of twelve days the Liquor will be fit for use. Touch the cheeks lightly with this Tincture, and it will scarcely be possible to perceive that rouge has been laid on, it will so nearly resemble the natural bloom.
242. An Oil that possesses the same Property
Take ten pounds of Sweet Almonds, an ounce of Red Sanders in powder, and an ounce of bruised Cloves; pour on them a gill of White Wine, and three quarters of a gill of Rose-water; stir them well every day. At the end of eight or nine days, squeeze the paste in a press in the same manner as when you mean to extract Oil of Almonds.
SWEET-SCENTED BAGS
243. A Sweet-Scented Bag to wear in the Pocket
Take thin Persian, and make it into little bags about four inches wide, in the form of an oblong square. Rub the inside lightly with a little Civet, then fill them with coarse powder a la Marechale, or any other odoriferous Powder you choose; to which add a few Cloves, with a little Yellow Sanders beaten small, and sew up the mouths of the bags.