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33.–Tatted Square or Diamond.
Materials: If for couvrettes, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20, or crochet cotton No. 4; tatting-pin No. 3. For d'oyleys, tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 2. For headdresses, tatting cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 2.
The square is composed first of nine 4-branched patterns, worked in 3 rows of 3 patterns each, and joined on one to the other with purl. Each pattern consists of 4 branches close to each other, and each branch consists of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; when the 4 branches of one pattern are completed, cut off the cotton, and fasten both ends together so as to form a small circle in the centre. Then work a second pattern, which is fastened on to the first and second branches of the first pattern, instead of working the purl stitch; work a third pattern, which is fastened in the same manner on to the second pattern. Then work 2 more rows exactly the same as can be seen in illustration.
*For the border of the square, fasten the cotton on the first purl of the first pattern, work 4 double, 13 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, draw up the stitches close, fasten the cotton again on to the same purl of the first pattern *, and work the following scallop at a short distance:–4 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 10 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, draw up the stitch, leaving an interval of two-fifths of an inch between the first and the last; fasten the cotton on to the next purl which joins two patterns, repeat twice more from *, and continue to repeat from *.
34.–Tatted Rosette.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, or crochet cotton No. 60.
This rosette is very pretty for trimming lingeries; it is worked with very fine crochet or tatting cotton. Begin in the centre and work one circle: 16 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 1 purled stitch. Fasten the cotton on to the first purl and work the 2nd round: 1 small circle, consisting of 6 double divided by 1 purl. Fasten the cotton on to the next purl of the middle circle, and repeat in rounds. 3rd round: Fasten the cotton on the middle purl of the first circle of the preceding round, * work at a short distance 8 double divided by 1 purl, join the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton at the same distance on to the middle purl of the next circle of the preceding round, and repeat in rounds from *, after which the cotton is fastened off.
35.–Rosette in Tatting.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; tatting-pin No. 3.
Begin this rosette with the circle in the centre, and work 8 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double, join the stitches into a circle and fasten the cotton. Take a second shuttle and work over the cotton on this shuttle; knot the two ends of cotton together * and work 5 plain, fasten the cotton over which you work on a purl of the circle which is completed, and which must be turned downwards; 5 plain, 1 purl; repeat 7 times more from *, and fasten the cotton. Work now with one of the shuttles the small circles on the outside; * fasten the cotton on to a purl of the second round, and work a circle as follows:–6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton on to the same purl of the second round, work a similar circle at a short distance, and a third at the same distance. Repeat 7 times more from *, and fasten off the cotton neatly.
36.–Diamond in Tatting.
Materials:Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; tatting-pin No. 2.
This diamond is suitable for trimming collars, cuffs, &c., when worked with fine cotton. Work first the four corner patterns separately, as follows:–7 double, 3 purl divided by 3 double, 6 double, join the stitches into a circle, work close to this circle a second one consisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle, 4 double, 2 purl divided by 4 double, 6 double; then a 3rd circle consisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 3 double, 2 purl divided by 3 double, 7 double. Take a second shuttle, fasten the cotton on the end of the cotton of the 1st circle, throw the cotton of the 1st shuttle over the fingers of the left hand, and work with this cotton over the cotton on the other shuttle in the right hand. Work 5 double, and then one circle as follows with the cotton in the left hand only:–8 double fastened on the last purl of the 3rd of the 3 circles worked close to each other, 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, then again over the cotton on the other shuttle, 5 double, 4 purl divided by 5 double, 5 double, then with one shuttle only one circle as follows:–6 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on 1st purl of the circle worked at the beginning, 8 double; then again with two shuttles 5 double. Fasten the cotton on the piece of cotton before the 5 double worked with two shuttles, so that the stitches worked over two shuttles form a circle, and cut off the cotton. When three of these patterns have been worked, work the centre pattern of the square. It consists of 4 leaves touching each other at the lower points; each leaf is formed of 3 double, 5 purl divided by 3 double, 3 double; each following leaf is fastened on to the preceding one at the place of the 1st purl. Then work first 1 round of the oval circles of the square, with which the corner patterns are joined. Fasten the cotton on one purl of one corner pattern, make 7 double, 1 purl, 8 double; fasten on the corresponding purl of another corner pattern, work 8 double, 1 purl, 7 double, join the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton on to the same purl to which the cotton has already been fastened, carry the latter on to the next purl of the same corner pattern, fasten it, then work three more circles like the first, which are fastened on to each preceding circle, at the place of the first purl; fasten the cotton on the two cross purl of the centre pattern, and work four similar circles on the other side of the same. The 8 circles which go across the square in the opposite direction are worked in the same manner. When the square is completed, draw two threads on each side of each corner pattern on to the other side of the square along the cotton which joins the circles together.
37.–Tatting for Cap Crown.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100; tatting-pin No. 1.
This pattern is very pretty for the crown of a cap like the one described on page 36, and also for covers, toilet cushions, &c. The size of the cotton depends upon the use you wish to make of the pattern. The pattern is worked with fine tatting cotton. It consists of eight-branched rosettes joined together with small circles. Each rosette is worked as follows: Work 8 loops or branches close to each other, consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; fasten both ends of the cotton together, and cut them off. Each of the small circles which joins the rosettes together consists of 2 double, 8 purl divided by 2 double. It is easy to see from the illustration how the patterns are joined together by means of the purl stitches.
38 and 39.–Cap in Tatting.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100 tatting-pin No. 1.
This very pretty cap consists of an oval crown in tatting, edged all round with a tatted lace, the lappets are made in tatting also. The cap is trimmed with large and small rosettes of narrow blue velvet. A narrow velvet ribbon is drawn through the straight open-work edge of the lace, as can be seen in illustration.
No. 39.–Border for Cap.–The upper part of the border consists of 4 rows of circles worked at a distance of three-fifths of an inch from each other. The circles of the 1st row consist of 3 double, 3 purl divided by 3 double, 3 double. In the following 3 rows each circle is fastened on to the cotton, which joins 2 circles in the 1st row, instead of working the middle purl, the cotton between 2 circles in the last row must only be two-fifths of an inch long. Then work a certain number of six-branched rosettes, each branch consisting of 9 double, 1 purl, 9 double. Each rosette is fastened on to every other circle of the 1st row, as can be seen in illustration. The border is completed as follows:–* 1 double, 6 purl divided by 1 double, 1 purled stitch fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the 1st row, 1 plain, 6 purl divided by 1 double, join the stitch into a circle, turn the lace so that the rosettes are turned upwards, fasten the cotton on to the purl of the next branch of the next rosette, work 1 double, 7 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double; fasten the cotton on to the purl of the next branch, * work 1 double, 8 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double; fasten the cotton on to the next branch, repeat once more from *, work 1 double, 7 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double, and repeat from * to the end of the lace.
40.–Lace in Tatting and Crochet.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 2; crochet cotton No. 60.
The beauty of this lace depends entirely upon the regularity of the tatting. The purl stitches must be very regularly made, the circles must be drawn up tight. Make * 1 circle, consisting of 4 double, 8 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double; close to this circle a second one; 5 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 8 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl 5 double, close to the 2nd circle a third one similar to the first, but instead of working the 1st purl fasten it on the last purl of the preceding circle; leave an interval of about 1-2/5 inch, and repeat from * till the lace is sufficiently long. The rest is worked in crochet. Take the fine crochet cotton and work the straight row at the top to join the patterns together. Crochet 1 double in the 3 first and last purl of the first and last circle of one pattern, then a sufficient number of double stitches under the piece of cotton which joins 2 circles. At the place where the circles are drawn together, join the two pieces of cotton (the beginning and the end) in such a manner that the top of the lace forms a straight line (see illustration). The 2nd row consists of 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble. Then work on the other side of the lace * a row of treble stitches divided by chain. The treble stitches are worked in the purl stitches of the circles. Work 1 long treble in the 1st purl left free of the 1st circle (4th purl of the circle), 3 chain, * 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 2 treble in the next 2 purl, but cast off the 1st treble only so far as to keep 2 loops on the needle. When the 2nd treble is completed cast off all the loops on the needle, 3 chain, 5 treble divided by 4 chain, 3 chain, 2 treble in the 2 following purl, which are cast off like those above described, 3 chain, 2 treble divided by 3 chain in the 2 next purl of a pattern, 1 chain, 1 long treble with which you must join the last purl and the first one of the next pattern, 1 chain; repeat from *. The next row consists of small scallops worked round the chain stitch scallops of the preceding row; work in each 1 double, 4 treble, 1 double, 1 double in the first and last chain stitch of every pattern.
41.–Insertion in Tatting and Crochet.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; crochet cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 2.
Begin the tatting with fine cotton and 2 shuttles. Work with the cotton on one shuttle over the cotton on the other in the following manner:–Knot the 2 ends of cotton together * 4 times 2 double divided by a short purl, 3 long purl divided by 1 double; the 1st and 3rd purl must be three-fifths of an inch long, the 2nd one two-fifths of an inch; 4 times 2 double divided by a short purl, 1 purl two-fifths of an inch long; repeat from * till the strip of insertion is sufficiently long. Then work a similar row of tatting, and join the two rows before working the 1 long purl, by fastening the cotton on the corresponding long purl of the 1st row, so that the 2 rows are joined closely together, and the purl stitches of either are turned outwards. At the top and bottom of the tatting work the 3 following rows of crochet:–* 1 double in the middle one of the 3 long purl, 8 chain, 1 double in each of the 3 following long purl, 8 chain; repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row. 8 double in each scallop, miss the 3 double stitches of the preceding row under 3 chain. The 3rd row consists of treble stitches in every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble. Lastly, the leaves are worked with thick cotton by filling up the first and last long purl of a pattern with darning stitch from illustration; the cross stitches between the two rows of tatting are worked with very fine cotton.
42.–Purse in Tatting and Beads.
Materials: Grey purse-silk; steel beads; scarlet glacé silk; a steel clasp with chain.
This purse is worked in tatting with grey silk and beads. The beads are threaded on a piece of silk, with which you work over another piece of the same. Begin each of the second halves of the purse with the circle in the centre, which consists of 1 purled stitch, 1 purl (all the purl of this circle are three-tenths of an inch long, and are covered with six beads, which must be drawn up close together before working the purl), 12 double divided by 1 purl. Join the stitches into a circle by knotting together the two ends of the silk.
2nd round: Begin again and work one of the small circles; * 2 double, draw up one bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl without beads, 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fasten the silk on the purl of the middle circle, so as to let it come between the 3rd and 4th bead of the 6 beads on that purl; 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl, 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, join the stitches into a circle, draw up 2 beads; work a larger circle without fastening the silk belonging to the smaller one; 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 4 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; 1 short purl, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 4 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; draw up 2 beads close to this large circle and repeat from *. Each following small circle must be fastened on the next purl of the circle which forms the centre; they are also fastened on to each other, instead of working the 1st purl, by fastening the piece of silk over which you work on the preceding small circle; in the larger circles, instead of working the 1st purl with 4 beads, the piece of silk must be fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, so that it comes between the 2nd and 3rd beads. At the end of the round, the ends of the silk are knotted together and fastened off.
3rd round: * 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the middle purl of the 1st circle of the preceding round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; join the stitches into a circle, and work at a short distance a 2nd circle; 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fastened on the last purl of the just-finished circle of this round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the purl of the preceding round which is between 2 circles; the loop must come between the 2 beads; 3 double, 1 bead after each; 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads; 3 double, with 1 bead after each; 1 double; leave a small interval, and repeat 11 times more from *, then fasten the ends.
When two similar parts have been worked, line them with scarlet glacé silk; fasten them together round the outside, and sew on the clasp. A round of large circles edges the purse round the outside. The 1st of these circles consists of 12 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double. Work a 2nd circle at a short distance from the 1st: * 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the purl of the 1st circle of this round; 7 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; leave a short interval, and repeat from * till a sufficient number of circles have been made. The last purl is not worked in the last circle.
43.–Insertion in Tatting and Crochet.
>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; crochet cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 3.
This pattern is composed of leaves and flowers. Each of the six leaves forming a circle is composed of 4 double, 2 purl, separated by 2 double, 4 double (the first and last purl of each leaf must be joined in the manner before explained), and the centre of each circle forms a wheel. The flower has four leaves: each leaf consists of 6 double, II purl, separated each by 1 double, and again 6 double; each leaf is filled up with button-hole stitches in fine cotton. To form the circle in the centre of this flower, turn several times the thread which joins the leaves, and work button-hole stitches round it. Join the flowers and the circles by knotting them together, or by making 1 purl longer than the others, and by drawing the next figure through. The crochet border on each side of the tatting consists of six rows, which are plainly seen in the illustration.
44.–Border in Tatting and Lace Stitch.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20 and 40.
This mixture of tatting and lace stitch is a style of work not only entirely new, but very pretty and effective when cotton of very different sizes is used. The tatting is begun with a row of circles two-thirds of an inch distant from each other; each circle consists of 13 stitches of plain tatting. Fasten a 2nd row to the 1st, and a 3rd to the 2nd, by working a circle of 13 stitches of plain tatting at one-third of an inch distance, * then at the same distance; fasten the cotton on the next circle of the preceding row, work a circle at the same distance again, and repeat from *. The cotton is fastened on the circles by drawing it through the circle with a crochet-needle, so as to form a loop, and then drawing it out of the loop. Take care to keep the distance between 2 circles always the same. Between the circles of the 3rd row draw another piece of cotton, by fastening the cotton on each circle of the 3rd row at distances of two-thirds of an inch. Then work the lower edge of the border in the following way:–1 small spot called a Josephine knot (for which work 5 stitches of plain tatting, draw the cotton downwards through the loop which fastens the stitches, and draw up the whole), fasten the cotton between the next two circles of the 3rd row, * and a little further make a spot consisting of 8 stitches of single tatting, close to this a circle formed of 3 double, 9 purl divided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a spot of 8 stitches of plain tatting, turn the 2 last spots so as to make their round sides come opposite one another; fasten the cotton on again between the 2 next circles of the 3rd row. Then a little further off work 1 small spot (5 stitches of plain tatting), 1 circle of 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purl divided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a small spot (5 plain stitches), fasten the cotton on again between the next 2 circles of the 3rd row, and repeat from *, always fastening each new circle to the corresponding purl of the preceding one. On the other long side, the border is completed by 2 rows of crochet. The 1st row is formed by working 1 double under the piece of cotton between 2 circles of the 1st row, with 5 chain stitches between.
2nd row: 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain stitch after every treble. The strip of insertion is then tacked on a piece of cardboard or oil-cloth, and the lace stitches are worked between the circles, as is seen in illustration.
45.–Tatted Rosette.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30 for large rosette, No. 80 for small rosette; tatting-pin No. 3.
This rosette forms a very pretty trimming for lingerie–cravats, caps, handkerchiefs, &c. The raised pattern in the centre consists of 4 rounds, consisting of 5 circles each, which are sewn together and then fastened on the rosette. The 5 circles of each round must be worked close to each other: after working the last circle of each round, knot the beginning and end of the cotton together. Each circle of the smallest round has 9 double, the circles of the next round each 15, the circles of the following one 21, and the circles of the last and largest round 27 double stitches. When these circles have been sewn on one to another as in illustration, work a large circle consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 9 times alternately 5 double, 1 purl, then 1 double. The purls of this circle are fastened on to the circles of the next round of the rosette. Fasten the cotton on to the next purl of the middle circle, and work a circle as follows:–4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double. Repeat 9 times more from *, but now, instead of working the 1st purl of every circle, fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle. Then fasten the cotton. For the last round, which consists of scallops and rounds, fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding round, and work a circle consisting of 3 times alternately 4 double, 1 purl, then 4 double.
Then fasten a second thread on to the same purl on which the just completed circle has been fastened, and over which all the scallops are to be worked. Work over it 5 double, fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double. Fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the next circle of the preceding round, and repeat from * till the round is completed; but in working these circles, instead of the first purl, fasten them on to the last purl of the preceding scallop. Lastly, the raised pattern is sewn on.
46.–Linen Bag for Tatting, &c.
Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30 or 40; tatting-pin No. 2.
This pretty linen bag is meant to keep tatting and such work from being soiled before it is completed. The bag is drawn together round the top. Its size depends upon what you wish to put into it. The original pattern is 3-3/4 inches deep, and 3 inches wide; it is hemmed round the top, and trimmed with a narrow tatted lace, consisting of large and small circles.
47.–Tatted Border.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; tatting-pin No. 2.
Begin this elegant border with 2 rows of tatting, in the following manner:–
1st row: 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double; draw these stitches up into a circle, and repeat the circle at a very short distance, till the border is long enough; but instead of working the first purl of each circle, you must join the circle to the preceding one; the purl on the sides of the circle must therefore be longer than that in the middle.