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For the 2nd row take another shuttle, make a loop on the left side with the cotton, and work with this end of cotton over the cotton in the right hand, which is also to be held between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Then work in the following way:–2 double, then 1 circle consisting of 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double; to form this circle, let the cotton in the left-hand shuttle fall downwards, and make a loop round the left hand with the cotton on the shuttle of the right hand. Then take up again the left-hand shuttle, and join the circle to the middle purl of the 1st circle of the 1st row by drawing the cotton through the purl like a loop, and then drawing the cotton in the right hand through this loop. * 7 double, 1 circle, 7 double, joined to the middle purl of the next circle of the 1st row; 1 circle, 5 double, 1 circle joined on the middle purl of the following circle; repeat from *.
The upper edge of the border is worked in 2 crochet rows, in the following manner:–
1st row: * 2 treble, divided by 1 chain in the 1st circle of the 1st row of tatting; 2 chain; repeat from *.
2nd row: * 1 treble in the 1st chain of the preceding row, 1 purl (3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st), miss 1 stitch of the preceding row under it; repeat from *.
48.–Rosette in Embroidery and Tatting.
Materials for trimmings: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20; tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 3. For couvrettes, crochet cotton No. 4.
This rosette, joined to other similar ones, forms a very pretty trimming for articles of fine linen, or even for small couvrettes; if used for the former, they must be worked with very fine cotton. The centre of the rosette is formed of an embroidered raised pattern worked in point de minute; round this centre there are small circles worked in button-hole stitch; the embroidery is worked with knitting cotton, the circles with crochet cotton. Before beginning the circles, make a circle consisting of a foundation chain of 80 stitches, in order to be able to fasten the button-hole stitch; in each of the stitches of the foundation chain work 1 double, then fasten the cotton. In the 2nd round of these circles fasten the cotton on every 5th stitch of the crochet circle. Work 1 round of open-work treble stitch in the double stitch of the crochet circle, work in tatting the border of the rosette as follows in 1 round:–* 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, fastened on to 1 chain stitch between 2 treble stitch, 2 double; 1 purl, 2 double,; join these stitches into a circle; turn the work so that the wrong side lies upwards, and work a second larger circle at a short distance consisting of 4 double, 5 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, turn again and repeat from *. The smaller circles must be fastened after every other treble stitch; the larger and smaller circles must be fastened above one another at the place of the 1st purl.
49–Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 2.
The diamond pattern placed in the corner of the collar is commenced in the centre. For each of the four centre leaves work 6 double stitches, 6 purl divided one from the other by 3 double stitches, then 6 more double stitches. Fasten off the cotton, cut it, and begin a fresh leaf by working 2 double stitches, 10 purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, then 2 more double stitches. (This small leaf forms one of the corners of the diamond pattern.) Fasten the cotton to the fourth purl of one of the four centre leaves, and work another leaf similar to the preceding. Join this leaf by its two centre purl to the two last purl of the corner leaf (see illustration). After two more similar leaves, work one corner leaf, and continue the pattern in the same manner until you come back to the first corner leaf, then fasten off, and cut the cotton. Place the diamond pattern upon the point of the collar, and cut away the material under it; fold back the edges, sew them neatly, and cover them with the following crochet edging:–Make alternately 2 chain, 1 purl (the latter composed of 3 chain joined together by 1 slip stitch). It will be easy to work the circles in tatting from our illustration; they form an elegant border round the collar. We shall merely say that the centre circle is always worked separately, and that the cotton is fastened on afresh to work the eight outer leaves. The upper edge of this border is worked in crochet. It is composed of two rows–one formed of chain stitches, and a few slip stitches worked in the purl of the circles in tatting, the other worked in open treble crochet.
50.–Cravat in Cambric Muslin and Tatting.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100; tatting-pin No. 3.
This cravat consists of a strip of cambric muslin 1 yard long, 6 inches wide, hemmed on both sides. The ends of the cravat are ornamented with patterns in tatting, worked with tatting cotton No. 100. A rosette in tatting is sewn on in the middle of the end of the cravat. The end of the cravat is pointed, lined on the wrong side with a strip of the same material as the cravat, and edged with a tatted lace.
Begin the rosette in the centre with a circle worked in the following manner:–1 double, 1 purl, * twice 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, twice 4 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, * 3 double, 1 purl; repeat from * to * once more, 2 double. At the beginning of the 2nd round fasten the cotton on the 1st purl of the 1st round, and work as follows:–* 1 circle consisting of 10 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 10 double; fasten the cotton on to the next purl, 1 circle like the preceding one, fastened on to the next purl, 1 circle consisting of 9 double, 1 purl, 9 double fastened on to the next purl, 2 circles consisting each of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; between the 2 fasten the cotton on to the next purl; 2 similar circles fastened also on to the next purl, 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double, fastened on to the next circle; repeat once more from *, and fasten off the cotton. Fasten on the cotton afresh for the 3rd round, worked in the following manner:–* 1 circle consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl; 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double; fasten the cotton at a short distance on to the 1st purl of the 2nd round, 1 circle worked as follows:–5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle of this round, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on to the next purl of the 2nd circle of the 2nd round; 6 similar circles, between each of which the cotton is to be fastened on to the nearest purl of a circle of the 2nd round; repeat once more from *, and knot the beginning and the end of the cotton together. When completed, the rosette is sewn on the material of the cravat with button-hole stitches, taking up one purl with each stitch; the muslin is cut away underneath the rosette; then work a round of knotted stitches underneath the button-hole stitch. For the lace, make a row of circles one-fifth of an inch distant from each other, consisting each of 6 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 4 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 6 double, which are fastened together by the purl of each circle, and are sewn on the cravat over the cotton between the circles in overcast stitch.
51–Cravat in Cambric Muslin and Tatting.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100; tatting-pin No. 3.
The end of this cravat is formed by a long rosette or médaillon in tatting. This rosette is likewise begun in the centre, and consists of 4 rounds, the 2 first of which are worked like those of the rosette in illustration 50, with this difference only, that in the 2nd round each of the circles nearest to the top and to the bottom of the rosette consists of 8 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 8 double. 3rd round: * 1 circle, consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double, fastened on to the next purl of the 2nd circle of the preceding round; 1 circle as follows:–5 double, the last of which is fastened on to the last purl of the preceding round, 4 double, 1 purl, twice 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on the next purl of the preceding round; 8 more similar circles, between each of which the cotton is fastened on to the next purl of the preceding round; repeat from * once more, fasten the two ends of the cotton together. 4th round: * Fasten on the cotton afresh with a circle consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 7 double, fastened on to the middle purl of the 1st circle of the preceding round; a 2nd circle worked in the same way, only instead of working the last purl, fasten the cotton on to the last purl of the preceding circle, then on to the 1st circle of the preceding round; 10 more similar circles, between each of which the cotton is fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding round, and then on to the 2nd purl of the larger circle at the bottom of the medallion; repeat once more from *. The pattern is sewn on the cravat with button-hole stitches, as can be seen in the illustration.
52.–Border in Crochet and Tatting.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 26.
This border is formed of circles in tatting and crochet leaves, which are joined together by rows of crochet work; a narrow border in tatting forms the lower edge. Omitting this edge, the border forms a strip of insertion. Each of the rosettes or circles is begun in the centre; work first 2 double (a double stitch is formed by passing the thread over the back of the hand, and then passing the shuttle upwards between the forefinger and second finger, and drawing it up, then work a stitch of plain tatting; this completes the double stitch, and whenever so many double stitches are directed it means the 2 stitches), 1 purl, repeat 9 times, join the stitch into a circle, work at a small distance * a smaller ring consisting of 3 double, 5 purl, divided each by 2 double stitches, 4 double, draw the cotton through the purl of the first circle, and repeat 8 times more from *, only each following circle must be fastened on to a purl of the preceding circle after 3 double stitches, and having completed each circle the thread must be drawn through the purl of the first circle, which forms the centre of the rosette. The beginning and the end of the thread are knotted together. For the tatted border, make at short distances 1 loop with 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double; after having worked a sufficient number of such loops, wind another thread round the thread between the loops, turning always 1 loop on the right side and 1 on the left. Now begin the crochet part with the leaves. Make for each of these a foundation chain of 12 stitches, crochet back over this chain 2 double in the last stitch but one, 1 double in the next stitch, 1 treble in each of the following 7 chain, 2 treble in the next stitch, 2 treble, 1 long treble, and 2 treble in the next following stitch of the foundation chain. Work on the other side of the chain the same pattern, only the reverse way; then 3 double in the point of the leaf thus formed, and edge the whole leaf with a round of double stitches, always working 2 double in each stitch of the preceding row, and 3 in the long treble stitch. In working this last round, the circles must be joined to the leaves by taking up the purl stitch of the circle before casting off the corresponding double stitch of the leaf; then work the stem which joins the 2 rows of circles and leaves with a row of chain stitches, on which a row of double is worked. Then comes the border which forms the upper edge. Make a row of chain stitches, joining leaves and circles together, then work 3 rows of treble, work 3 more rows over the tatted border, the first row entirely in chain stitches, after every fourth stitch take up the purl of the loops on one side. 2nd row: 1 treble in the middle stitch of the 3 chain, 2 treble, divided by 3 chain. 3rd row: 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1 under the last. In the last row the leaves and circles must be fastened on the border, as seen in illustration.
53.–Diamond in Tatting.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10; tatting-pin No. 2; any sized shuttle.
1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a double thread is required, and commence by working 5 double stitches, 1 purl, then (3 double, 1 purl 10 times), 5 double, draw up.
Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left hand, work 7 single stitches, taking care to do them tightly.
2nd oval: 4 double, join to the last purl of 1st oval, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches tightly worked.
3rd oval: 4 double, join to last purl of 2nd oval, 3 double, join to next purl of 2nd oval, then (3 double, 1 purl 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
4th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
5th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
6th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 4 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 7 single stitches.
7th oval: 5 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1 purl, 10 times) 5 double, draw up.
Double thread: 7 single stitches.
8th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
9th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
10th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread:12 single stitches.
11th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
12th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 3 times) 3 double, join to 1st purl of 1st oval, 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 7 single stitches.
Now cut off both threads, and with a needle fasten off neatly at the back of first oval by sewing 1 thread over the other.
The diamond is now finished. The centre must be filled up with lacework, using fine sewing-cotton.
Arranged in groups of 7 or 8, 3 diamonds form a very pretty trimming for the skirts of silk dresses, the body being trimmed with single diamonds.
54.–Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100, tatting-pin No. 3; 1 piece of very fine cord.
This collar is ornamented with a triangle and a border of a very effective pattern. The triangle is begun in the centre, by working for each of the three leaves 5 double stitches, 5 purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, and 5 more double stitches. When the third leaf is completed, fasten off and cut the cotton. Now take, instead of the cotton wound upon the shuttle, a piece of extremely fine cord, over which work with the cotton from the reel the following row of stitches:–1 double stitch, fasten the cotton to the centre purl of one of the three leaves, * 2 double stitches, 5 purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches, fasten the cotton to the centre purl of the nearest leaf, 2 double stitches, 9 purl divided one from the other by 3 double stitches, 2 double stitches fastened to the same purl as before. Repeat from * twice more, then fasten off, and cut the cord and the cotton. Begin afresh, and work 3 small circles, each composed of 12 plain stitches placed quite close together (these form one of the corners of the triangle), then at small distances one from the other work 13 similar circles, every second one of which is fastened to one purl of the row of stitches worked over the cord (see illustration). Cut away from the collar the piece of linen which is to be replaced by the triangle, fold in the edges and work them round in button-hole stitch, and fill up the space with the triangle. For the border, work first * one circle composed of 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, 3 more double stitches; take up the cord once more and work over it, 3 double stitches, then, without cord, 1 circle composed of 2 double stitches, 12 purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches; take up the cord again and work over it 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches. Fasten the cotton to the third purl (reckoning from the last) of the second circle worked without cord; 3 double stitches fastened to the fourth purl of the row of stitches worked over the cord (see illustration), 2 double stitches, 6 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches fastened to the purl of next circle, 3 double stitches fastened to the last purl of the row, 2 double stitches, 3 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches; fasten the cotton to the sixth purl of the circle (reckoning from the beginning), 4 double stitches. Repeat from *. Work over the top of the border a crochet edging similar to that round the diamond pattern of collar No. 49. For the point of the border, at the corner of the collar, see illustration No. 54.
55.–Tatted Collar.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100; tatting-pin No. 1.
This collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton. It consists of four branched tatted patterns and of separate tatted circles, fastened on to one another as seen in illustration. The four branched patterns are worked as follow:–3 double, 1 purl, 7 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 3 double, and join the knots into a circle. Work 3 similar leaves close to this 1st leaf, but instead of working the 1st purl, fasten them on to the last purl of the preceding leaf; besides this, instead of working the last purl of the 4th branch, fasten it on to the first purl of the 1st branch. When 1 such four-branched pattern is completed, knot both ends of the cotton together and cut them off. Make a row of similar patterns by joining them on to the 2 middle purl of a branch of the preceding pattern, instead of working the 2 middle purl of the last branch (see illustration). Two rows of similar patterns are joined by the above-mentioned circles, consisting of 32 double stitches, by fastening these circles from illustration between four branched patterns. Begin each circle with 2 double stitches, fasten it on to the corresponding purl of the four-branched pattern, work again 2 double, fasten on to the next purl, and continue in the same manner till the circle is sufficiently large. Each circle is ornamented with lace stitch. The collar is edged round the neck with close button-hole stitches.
56.–Tatted Collar.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 3.
This collar is commenced at the top, and worked with fine cotton in the following manner:–1st oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 9 times, draw the cotton into a circle, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, 5 times, 1 purl, 3 double, draw the cotton into a circle, and join it to the first purl of the first circle; work two more circles the same as last. 2nd oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 7 times, join the third purl to the third purl of the centre circle of preceding pattern, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 times, 2 double, 1 purl, draw the cotton up, and work 5 small circles, as follow:–3 double *, 1 purl, 1 double, 4 times, * 1 purl, 3 double, joining each circle to the purl of the 2nd oval. 3rd oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 8 times, joining the 3rd purl to the 2nd purl of the centre circle of the preceding pattern, 3 double, 1 purl, 4 times, 2 double, 1 purl, draw the cotton up, and work 7 small circles, similar to the small circles described in 2nd oval.
57.–Circle in Tatting.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 2.
This circle is worked with fine cotton, and will be very pretty for ornamenting cravat-ends and different articles of lingerie. It is commenced in the centre with 2 double, 1 purl, repeated 8 times, draw the cotton into a ring, and work 8 small circles, as follow:–3 double, * 1 purl, 1 double, repeat from * 6 times, 1 purl, 3 double, draw up the cotton, and join it to the purl of centre ring and corresponding circle. Large circle: 3 double, * 1 purl, 2 double, repeat from * 14 times, 3 double, draw up the cotton, and join it to the 4th purl of small circle. The centre of ring is filled up with lace stitches.
58.–Tatting Medallion for Trimming Lingeries, &c.c.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50 for cravats and collars, 100 for pocket-handkerchiefs, 20 for petticoats; tatting-pin No. 2 or 3.
This pattern is suitable for trimming cravats, collars, pocket-handkerchiefs, petticoats, &c.c., according to the size of the cotton with which it is worked. Work first the round of circles which incloses the leaves, overlapping each other in the centre; begin with the smallest circle, which is at the top of the pattern; it consists of 3 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 3 double. Then work at a short distance another circle like the preceding one, only work 8 double instead of 7, and instead of working the first purl, fasten the circle on to the last purl of the preceding circle; all the other circles are fastened on to each other in the same manner. The next circle, worked again at a distance of about one-fifth of an inch, has 4 double; fasten it on to the preceding circle, 9 double, 1 purl, 9 double, 1 purl, 4 double. The following four circles are worked like the preceding one; only work in the first of these circles 10 double instead of 9, in the second 11 double, in the third 12 double. The piece of cotton which joins the circles together must also be somewhat longer between the larger circles. Then work a circle as follows: 5 double, fasten the cotton, 13 double, 1 purl, 13 double, 1 purl, 5 double; then a similar circle, but always working 14 double instead of 13. The next circle consists of 6 double, fasten the cotton, 15 double, 1 purl, 15 double, 1 purl, 6 double; the two following circles are worked in the same manner, working 16 double instead of 15. Then comes the largest circle of the round, which consists of 6 double, 17 double, 1 purl, 17 double, 1 purl, 6 double. Work 11 circles more like the 2nd to 12th of those just described (the 13th circle forms the middle), only the order of sizes must be reversed, so that the round closes with the smallest circle. Then fasten both ends of the cotton together, so that the circles are joined into a circle. Then work round this row of circles another round, the circles of which must be of graduated sizes like those of the first round. Fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the first small circle of the first round, and work one circle as follows:–3 double, 1 purl, 6 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 3 double; fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the next circle, &c.c. The remaining circles are worked in the same manner, only they must be increased and decreased in size gradually like the circles of the first round; this is done by increasing or decreasing the number of purl, instead of working the first purl of every following circle, fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle. When the round is completed, fasten both ends of the cotton together. In the centre of the oval pattern, fasten 6 five-branched patterns of graduated size, which are worked in one piece. For the smallest of these patterns work first three circles, consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then again 5 double (these circles must be close to each other; the second and third circles must, moreover, be fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle). The cotton is then fastened on the first circle between the beginning and the end of the same, then work close to them two small circles, consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton between the beginning and the end of the third circle. The other five-branched patterns are worked in the same manner at intervals of about three-tenths of an inch; but the separate circles of each pattern must become gradually larger. In the largest pattern the three large circles consist of 5 double, 1 purl, 8 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 5 double; the two smaller circles consist each of 15 double, 1 purl, 15 double; the size of the other patterns can easily be worked from this; the cotton which joins these last together is covered by over-casting with a needle and thread, so as to imitate double stitches. The five-branched patterns are then fastened in the oval pattern; they must overlap each other to half way, as seen in the illustration.