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COPYRIGHT
HarperCollinsPublishers
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London SE1 9GF
www.harpercollins.co.uk
First published by HarperCollinsPublishers 2017
FIRST EDITION
Text © Marcus Wareing 2017
Cover layout design © HarpercollinsPublishers 2017
Photography © Jonathan Gregson 2017
Prop stylist: Jo Harris
Food stylist: Marina Filippelli
Assistant food stylist: Becks Wilkinson
A catalogue record of this book is available from the British Library
Marcus Wareing asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work
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Source ISBN: 9780008242732
Ebook Edition © November 2017 ISBN: 9780008242756
Version 2019-10-07
CONTENTS
COVER
TITLE PAGE
COPYRIGHT
NOTES ON INGREDIENTS
INTRODUCTION
FROM THE GARDEN
WATERMELON WITH PICKLED RIND, SALTED RICOTTA AND CORIANDER SALAD
KALE, TOASTED ALMOND AND FRIED SAGE SALAD
TOMATO, GOATS’ CHEESE AND BLACK OLIVE SALAD
ROASTED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES WITH CONFIT LEMON AND A GARLIC AND PICKLED WALNUT DRESSING
SUPER-GREEN SOUP WITH RICOTTA DUMPLINGS
CELERIAC AND APPLE SOUP WITH SMOKED CRÈME FRAÎCHE
CHILLED SWEETCORN SOUP WITH AVOCADO SALSA, CHILLI AND BLACK SESAME SEEDS
BURRATA WITH ROMESCO SAUCE AND GRILLED PADRON PEPPERS
HONEY-BAKED FETA WITH LAVENDER, THYME AND RYE CRISPS
COURGETTE FLOWERS WITH RICOTTA AND SWEET BASIL SAUCE
SALT-BAKING
SALT DOUGH
SALT-BAKED PARSNIP AND HORSERADISH CRUMBLE
SALT-BAKED KABOCHA SQUASH, POMEGRANATE, RICOTTA AND MINT
TEMPURA FENNEL WITH FENNEL MARMALADE AND GARLIC AIOLI
TAGLIATELLE WITH BUTTERNUT SQUASH, HAZELNUTS AND CRISPY SAGE
COURGETTE, SPELT AND CUMIN FRITTERS
MUSHROOM ‘RAVIOLI’ WITH SHALLOT SAUCE AND GRILLED SPRING ONIONS
HERITAGE TOMATO, SESAME AND MISO TARTS
SPINACH, RICOTTA AND BASIL PESTO CANNELLONI
KABOCHA SQUASH, PARMESAN AND ROSEMARY TART
BRAISED TOFU WITH BUCKWHEAT, CAVALO NERO AND CAPERS
CAULIFLOWER BHAJIS WITH MANGO AND CORIANDER YOGHURT
THAI VEGETABLE CURRY
AUBERGINE, FREEKEH AND CASHEW TAGINE
CARAMELISED CELERIAC, THYME AND HAZELNUT RISOTTO
VEGETABLE STOCK
AUBERGINE PARMIGIANA
SUMMER VEGETABLE LASAGNE
ROASTED RED PEPPER, ROCKET, CASHEW AND FETA FLATBREADS
FROM THE FARM
ROAST CHICKEN, SEMI-DRIED TOMATO, GRILLED GEM LETTUCE AND BASIL SALAD
GREEN BEAN, CRISPY BACON, SHALLOT AND ONION SEED SALAD
CHICKEN, BARLEY AND THYME SOUP
BACON AND SWEET POTATO SOUP WITH ALMOND BUTTER
BUTTER-POACHED CHICKEN WITH PEAS, BROAD BEANS AND GOATS’ CURD
CHICKEN LIVER PÂTÉ WITH GINGER AND LAPSANG SOUCHONG JELLY
BRINING
MEAT BRINE
ROSEMARY ROAST CHICKEN WITH BAKED FENNEL AND POTATOES
HANGER STEAK WITH SAUCE GRIBICHE AND CONFIT EGG YOLK
COQ AU VIN
CHICKEN STOCK
MISO-GLAZED CHICKEN THIGHS WITH STICKY RICE AND SESAME GREENS
CHICKEN, MUSTARD AND SPINACH COBBLER
CHICKEN, CASHEW AND BEANSPROUT STIR-FRY
CHICKEN TIKKA MASALA
CRISPY CHICKEN THIGHS WITH PEANUT AND COCONUT SAUCE AND PICKLED LETTUCE
CHICKEN WELLINGTONS WITH MUSTARD SAUCE
ROAST POUSSIN WITH MUSHROOMS, SWEETCORN AND TARRAGON
DUCK WITH TAMARIND SAUCE, CASHEW BUTTER, FREEKEH AND PICKLED PLUMS
CRISPY DUCK SALAD WITH PINK GRAPEFRUIT, CASHEW AND CORIANDER
PORK CHOPS WITH SALSA VERDE AND WHITE BEANS
PORK AND CHORIZO BURGERS
PORK FILLET WITH PINE-NUT CRUMB AND CHARRED CABBAGE
CUMBERLAND SAUSAGE, ONION AND POTATO PIE
MACARONI CHEESE WITH BACON JAM
SLOW-COOKED PORK BELLY WITH BURNT PEAR AND NUTMEG
SPICED PORK AND PRAWN BROTH WITH SLOW-COOKED PORK BELLY
SMOKY PORK RIBS WITH BOURBON AND APPLE GLAZE
PORK SCHNITZEL WITH ’NDUJA AIOLI
SPICED LAMB KOFTA WITH BANANA CHUTNEY
WARM LAMB NECK AND MINTED PEA BAGUETTE
HARISSA-MARINATED LAMB WITH MINT CHUTNEY, PISTACHIOS AND YOGHURT DRESSING
LAMB CHOPS WITH ASPARAGUS, PARMESAN SAUCE AND MARJORAM
LAMB STEW WITH TARRAGON DUMPLINGS
LAMB RUMP WITH POLENTA AND ARTICHOKE SALAD
SAFFRON-BRAISED LAMB SHANKS
SLOW-COOKED LEG OF LAMB WITH GREEN OLIVE SALSA AND SPICED LEMON
SALT-BAKED SHOULDER OF LAMB
FLASH-FRIED SIRLOIN STEAK AND BROCCOLI WITH SESAME AND CHILLI DRESSING
BRESAOLA, BLUE CHEESE AND HONEY PIZZA
BEEF BOURGUIGNON
BEEF STOCK
HERB AND MOZZARELLA MEATBALL BAKE
BEEF AND ALE PIE WITH CHORIZO
RIB OF BEEF WITH RED WINE SAUCE, BONE MARROW AND YORKSHIRE PUDDINGS
LOIN OF VENISON WITH CREAMED SPROUTS AND JUNIPER SAUCE
FROM THE SEA
PRAWN, SUGAR SNAP, KALE, PEANUT AND CORIANDER SALAD
CRAB WITH CHILLED TOMATO SOUP, LEMON AND PICKLED CUCUMBER
FISH SOUP WITH SEA BASS, MACKEREL AND PRAWNS
GRAVADLAX WITH GRAPEFRUIT AND CORIANDER
BROWN SHRIMPS, BROAD BEANS, FENNEL AND LEMON BRUSCHETTA
TUNA CRUDO WITH MISO, APPLE, LIME AND SAMPHIRE
GRILLED SCALLOPS WITH GREEN CHILLI AND CORIANDER SALSA, PEACH AND BUTTERMILK
PRAWN FRENCH TOAST
HOT SMOKING
SMOKE MIX
ROSEMARY SMOKED MACKEREL WITH BAKED LEMON JAM, FENNEL AND CRÈME FRAÎCHE
HOT SMOKED SALMON EGGS BENEDICT
FISH TACOS
SEARED TUNA WITH LYONNAISE ONIONS, PINE NUTS AND PICKLED CARROTS
COD GOUJONS WITH PARMESAN CRUMB AND TARTARE SAUCE
ROAST HALIBUT WITH MUSHROOM VELOUTÉ AND THYME PESTO
SEAFOOD GRATIN WITH TOMATO AND BASIL
FISH STOCK
SZECHUAN-SPICED SEA BREAM WITH RADISH SLAW
PAN-FRIED POLLOCK WITH CAPERS, ARTICHOKES AND BROWN BUTTER
BAKED SEA BASS WITH SESAME AND LEMON GRASS
SALMON WITH BEETROOT AIOLI AND WATERCRESS SALAD
SALT-AND-PEPPER PLAICE WITH KIMCHI
ROASTED POLLOCK WITH MISO BUTTER, NORI AND BOULANGÈRE POTATOES
HOT SMOKED SALMON, ORZO, CRÈME FRAÎCHE AND DILL SALAD
MOULES MARINIÈRE
CHARGRILLED SQUID WITH COURGETTES, WHITE BEANS AND LEMON DRESSING
LOBSTER WITH YUZU EMULSION, SAFFRON SPÄETZLE AND FRESH PEAS
FROM THE STORECUPBOARD
APRICOT, ALMOND AND EARL GREY TART
DARK CHOCOLATE ORANGE TARTS WITH NEGRONI CREAM
BROWN SUGAR TART
POACHED PEACHES WITH OAT CRUMB AND RICOTTA
FIG AND GINGER CHEESECAKE
STRAWBERRIES, SMOKED MASCARPONE AND SHORTBREAD
RHUBARB BAKLAVA WITH BURNT HONEY
STONE FRUIT SALAD WITH CHAMOMILE AND LIME GRANITA
GOOSEBERRY POSSET WITH ROSEMARY AND ALMOND CAKES
MINT CHOCOLATE CHIP ICE CREAM
BROWN BREAD ICE CREAM
MANGO, PASSION FRUIT AND MINT PAVLOVA
RHUBARB AND ROSE TRIFLE
RASPBERRY AND ROSE PASTRIES
ESPRESSO AND CHOCOLATE BAKED ALASKA
PLUM CLAFOUTIS
FREEFORM SPICED APPLE PIE
BAKED HONEYCOMB PUDDINGS
PINEAPPLE UPSIDE-DOWN CAKES WITH RUM CREAM
CARAMELISING
BANANA AND COCONUT CAKE WITH CARAMELISED BANANA COCONUT ICE CREAM
WARM SPICED COURGETTE CAKE WITH ANISE CARAMEL
DATE AND ORANGE BLOSSOM BRIOCHE
CARAMELISED ONION, ROSEMARY AND PARMESAN BAPS
SAFFRON AND POTATO BREAD
FERMENTED BARLEY AND ALE BREAD
GLUTEN-FREE PUMPKIN-SEED BREAD
MARMITE, ONION AND CHEDDAR BREAD
BLUE CHEESE STRAWS
COURGETTE, TARRAGON AND CHEESE SCONES
VIENNESE WHIRLS
ECCLES CAKES
BOURBON AND PECAN CREAMS
OAT, MACADAMIA AND APRICOT COOKIES
BUTTERMILK AND GOLDEN SYRUP SCONES
TOASTED ALMOND MERINGUES
SALTED CARAMEL AND MILK CHOCOLATE POPCORN BARS
MILLIONAIRE’S SHORTBREAD
LEMON MERINGUE SLICE
RHUBARB AND CUSTARD DOUGHNUTS
PRUNE AND WALNUT SLICE
CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH DARK CHOCOLATE GLAZE
ESPRESSO, WHITE CHOCOLATE AND WALNUT CAKE
PINK GRAPEFRUIT SPONGE
PEAR, ALMOND AND ROSEMARY CAKE
CONVERSION CHARTS
LIST OF SEARCHABLE TERMS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
MORE FROM MARCUS WAREING
ABOUT THE PUBLISHER
NOTES ON INGREDIENTS
Unless otherwise stated:
Use large free-range eggs
Use whole milk (but semi-skimmed can be substituted, if you like)
Use unsalted butter
Use standard plain flour
Use fresh herbs (1 bunch = 25g)
Use medium-sized fruit and vegetables
INTRODUCTION
What does the phrase ‘new classic’ mean when discussing food? To me, when talking of a ‘classic’ in cookery, I think of tradition, dishes that are tried and tested, or that represent a time or place, and have stood the test of time. The notion of a ‘new classic’ accepts that a shift has taken place, whether in taste, produce or technique, which means a new twist can be put on that dish. I want to share these recipes with you, to introduce you to new flavour combinations and cookery methods that you may not have used before. I also want to reveal my favourite dishes that are in the process of becoming classics – brilliant dishes that will become time-honoured themselves.
The ‘classics’ were exactly what I learnt at college in the 1980s. Dishes such as lobster Thermidor, sole bonne femme, béarnaise, lemon meringue pie, millefeuille, éclairs, croissants – the list goes on and on. The techniques involved in these recipes, such as emulsifying, braising, sauce-making and pastry skills, were the cornerstones of my training. Most of you will be familiar with a number of these dishes and would deem them as ‘classics’, but I would hazard a guess that you cook and eat them very rarely – some because of their heaviness or the lengthy work involved, and some just because they’re not to our modern tastes. This is what led me to write this book. I felt that, while classics will always have a firm place in any cuisine, new versions of the classics and new classics themselves deserve to come to the fore.
When I was a child, our family ate relatively simple food – generally meat and two veg, one of which was almost always a potato. As a family, we were not particularly adventurous and my siblings and I ate what was put in front of us. We all sat down together as a family to have our evening meal, though – always. My favourite dinner was roast leg of lamb with mint sauce and Jersey royals, followed by apple pie and cream. Fast-forward to today, and what my wife and children and I eat together is much more varied. We’ve always encouraged our children, and still do, to try new foods and flavours. These days you’re likely to find us eating chicken curry on a weeknight, and enjoy a pork chop with mustard sauce and tarragon on a Sunday. My children are very keen cooks themselves, which is of course actively encouraged!
Any good dish must start with great ingredients. It was in my father’s fruit and potato warehouse that I learnt the value of ingredients. I began to understand the difference between the flavour of unripe fruit and that of wonderfully vibrant, ripe produce. Selecting seasonal ingredients will ensure they are at their best. As I have always advocated in my cooking, ingredients are a key factor to success, so I have divided up the recipes by where we source our ingredients: the garden, the farm, the sea and the storecupboard.
FROM THE GARDEN
This chapter is something close to my heart – my father is the one to thank for my love of the humble vegetable. When sourcing ingredients, ripeness is key. Do not be afraid of over-ripeness, as this can often intensify flavour and sweetness. The Summer Vegetable Lasagne is my take on a great recipe for families, as it is a delicious way to get children to enjoy vegetables. Another favourite is Tempura Fennel, a flavoursome dish that allows the fennel to really sing out. If you want to try making your own ravioli, I’ve provided a twist on the classic with my Mushroom ‘Ravioli’ with Shallot Sauce. In this chapter I also look in-depth at the technique of salt-baking. By making a salt dough and infusing it with herbs, you can impart seasoning and flavour deep into vegetables, as well as meat and fish. It is a great, simple technique that adds so much to any dish, so why not try it with the Salt-baked Parsnip and Horseradish crumble for a winter supper or the Salt-baked Kabocha Squash, Pomegranate, Ricotta and Mint in late summer?
FROM THE FARM
Here I feature some of my favourite cuts of meat, such as Hanger Steak, which is rather underused. There is also my favourite Roast Chicken recipe, where the chicken is baked with fennel and potatoes. Both recipes showcase brining, which seasons meat or fish right to the core and tenderises it in the process. It takes a little more organisation but it’s well worth it, with a tender, moist and well-flavoured dish as a result. The caramelised pears give an extra dimension to a classic Slow-cooked Pork Belly for a weekend family lunch, and my Herb and Mozzarella Meatball Bake is a great one for a midweek supper. When it comes to meat, look for good marbling in beef and lamb and vibrant flesh. What the animals are fed on can also affect the flavour and texture of the meat, so if you can, buy grass-fed or pasture-fed.
FROM THE SEA
This takes me back to my time at the Savoy Hotel kitchen when I was 17 and working on the fish section. I have included a few classics, such as Fish Soup, which I’ve updated with a few of my own ideas, while eggy bread is given a delicious makeover in Prawn French Toast. In this chapter I also feature the technique of hot smoking. Traditionally this is done to preserve fish, but more importantly for us it adds another flavour dimension to the dish. Smoke is a match made in heaven with oily mackerel, so look for my recipe for Rosemary Smoked Mackerel with Baked Lemon Jam, Fennel and Crème Fraîche. You might be used to smoked salmon, eggs and hollandaise for brunch, but once you’ve tried it with home-smoked salmon in my twist-on-a-classic Hot Smoked Salmon Eggs Benedict, you won’t go back. For fish and seafood, choose the brightest-looking fish, with no strong smells. When purchasing seafood, always look for the glossiest produce and wash well in cold water before using.
FROM THE STORECUPBOARD
This chapter encompasses baking recipes that use base ingredients potentially already in your cupboard (which makes baking possible when you have last-minute cravings!). As well as cakes, biscuits and tarts, there are breads such as Marmite, Onion and Cheddar Bread, which is a favourite with my kids and a lovely accompaniment to soup. When it comes to puddings, you can’t beat the Baked Honeycomb Puddings as a delicious finish to a Sunday lunch. I also focus on caramelising sugar, something which can seem a little daunting. It’s not a complicated method once you know how; the trick is to be patient and ready for the next step as soon as the sugar begins to colour. Try out the technique with one of my favourites in this chapter, the Warm Spiced Courgette Cake with Anise Caramel, which is a lovely pale green at the centre – it’s a good way to get a few more vegetables into children and for them to see the versatility of ingredients. Caramel finds its way into ice cream as well, here, for a delicious pudding of Banana and Coconut Cake with Caramelised Banana Coconut Ice Cream.
Above all, do remember to enjoy cooking. Food is something to be treasured, and cooking is such a wonderful way to learn, educate, socialise and enjoy quality time with family and friends. So please don’t be daunted by any of these recipes – they have all been written with home cooking in mind. This book is about sharing my passion for cooking and ingredients with all kinds of home cooks, from beginners all the way up. My advice is to dive straight in! Enjoy reading, creating and, of course, eating.
WATERMELON WITH PICKLED RIND, SALTED RICOTTA AND CORIANDER SALAD
Apple and cheese is a classic combination, and my twist on a refreshing summer salad is to pair watermelon and savoury salted ricotta. Instead of discarding watermelon rind, try pickling it. It has a great texture and keeps for quite some time in the fridge. It works well as an accompaniment to most meat and fish, and in salads, like this one.
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 15 minutes, plus minimum 24 hours pickling
½ watermelon (approximately 1.2kg)
4 tbsp olive oil
grated zest and juice of 1 lime
50g salted ricotta cheese
¼ bunch of coriander, leaves picked
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE PICKLE
100ml white wine vinegar
4 tbsp runny honey
6 whole white peppercorns
2 cloves
1 bay leaf
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
½ tsp yellow mustard seeds
½ tsp table salt
Peel the green layer off the watermelon, then remove the pink flesh from the white rind (put the pink flesh in a bowl, cover and chill) and carefully slice the white rind into roughly 1cm chunks. Put all the pickle ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the chunks of watermelon rind and bring back up to the boil. Remove from the heat and allow to steep for 30 minutes. Cover and chill for at least 24 hours.
Cut the pink watermelon flesh into roughly 1.5cm cubes, removing as many black and white seeds as you can (with a skewer). Mix the olive oil and lime zest and juice together in a bowl. Season the watermelon with sea salt and pepper and dress it with the oil and lime.
Divide the watermelon flesh between four plates. Drain off the pickled watermelon rind and add it to the plates. Finely grate the salted ricotta over the top of the watermelon (use a Microplane grater for this if you have one) then finish with the coriander leaves.
KALE, TOASTED ALMOND AND FRIED SAGE SALAD
This is a great salad for when the weather starts to turn cooler. Kale has a rather robust texture which lends itself well to being eaten either raw or cooked. In this recipe I have included both: the raw kale adds a freshness to the salad and the fried kale adds a light smokiness to the overall flavour.
Serves: 4
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
2 tbsp vegetable oil
2 shallots, thinly sliced
500g kale, tough stems removed
½ bunch of sage, leaves picked
100g flaked almonds
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE DRESSING
3 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tsp wholegrain mustard
125ml olive oil
1 garlic clove, finely grated
Heat half of the vegetable oil in a large frying pan over high heat. When hot, add the shallots, season well with sea salt and cook for 6–8 minutes, until golden. Add half the kale and cook for a further 2 minutes until it just begins to wilt, then transfer the kale and shallots to a bowl.
Heat the remaining oil in a medium frying pan. When hot, add some of the sage leaves and fry for 2–3 minutes over high heat until crispy (fry them in batches). Place on kitchen paper to soak up the excess oil and season well with sea salt.
When the sage leaves have been fried, add the flaked almonds to the pan, season with sea salt and toast until golden. Remove from the heat.
To make the dressing, mix all the ingredients together in a bowl.
Thinly slice the remaining raw kale and mix it together in the bowl with the cooked kale, shallots, almonds and fried sage leaves. Season with more sea salt and loads of black pepper and drizzle with the dressing.
TOMATO, GOATS’ CHEESE AND BLACK OLIVE SALAD
Nothing beats a plate of tomatoes dressed in olive oil as a late-summer starter. Here I add goats’ cheese and my favourite black olives, Kalamata, for a real depth of flavour with the sweetness of tomatoes and shallots. Tomatoes taste much sweeter when they are at room temperature, rather than fridge-cold. They will also ripen quicker stored outside the fridge.