The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book

Gentlemen’s Knitted Gloves

Cast on 88 stitches, 28 on each of 2 needles, and 32 on the 3rd, knit round, knitting and ribbing 4 stitches alternately; when you have done about one inch, continue with plain knitting1 until your glove is long enough to begin increasing for the thumb, which is done by knitting twice in one stitch (that is, when you have knitted the stitch, knit it again at the back before you slip it off the needle,) in the middle of a needle. Knit a plain round; then increase twice in every other round before and after the last increase; continue this until you have stitches enough for the thumb (about 29); take all the stitches except those for the thumb, on two other needles; divide the stitches for the thumb on 3 of your 4 needles and knit round, decreasing gradually at the join towards the end; take the remaining stitches, about 9, on a worsted needle and sew it up. Divide the stitches for the hand again on your needles, taking up 5 stitches at the bottom of the thumb for the gusset; knit two rounds; in the next three rounds decrease 3 stitches of the gusset: knit plain until the glove is long enough to begin the fingers; begin with the first finger, which will require 27 stitches, decrease as you may think fit at the end of the finger. This will leave 25, 23, and 21 stitches for the 3 succeeding fingers. When you have finished the first finger, you must take up 4 stitches at the bottom for a gusset, these may be decreased or not according to the size required.

Netted Gloves

The mesh to net these gloves should be No. 14, and the netting silk fine.

Begin on a round foundation of 50 stitches; net 6 rounds, net 1 round, putting the silk twice round the mesh, this is to make a place to run the ribbon in; net 6 rounds, then begin to increase for the thumb by netting twice in one stitch, net one stitch, net twice in the next stitch: continue to increase in the same manner every other round, before and after where you increased last, until you have 19 (or 21 for rather a large size) stitches for the thumb; net one round, then net the stitches for the thumb round, when you have done 1 round decrease once in every round at the join for 4 or 5 rounds; net until the thumb is long enough and in the last round take 2 stitches in 1 and sew up the end: (the fingers are finished in the same way.) Fasten on your silk at the bottom of the thumb, and net 4 extra stitches for a gusset; net 5 rounds, in the 6th decrease 2 stitches of the 4; net 10 or 12 rounds according to the size required. Now begin the first finger, for which 16 stitches are required, net round and finish like the thumb; the other fingers are done in the same way, except that you must make a gusset of two stitches, which are not to be decreased, at the bottom of the finished finger, this allows 15 stitches, including the two of the gusset, for the second finger, 14 for the third, and 12 for the fourth. Run a pattern on the back with flox silk.

Feather Gloves

Cast 64 stitches on 1 needle, and 38 on each of the other two: knit round, knitting and ribbing 5 stitches alternately until you have half an inch. Then knit a round, putting the cotton round the needle, and knitting 2 stitches taken together, this is to make a runner for the ribbon. Knit 3 rounds plain. Knit the stitches of the first needle plain and begin the feather pattern for the back with the second needle, bring the cotton forward knit a stitch, repeat this twice, decrease by knitting 2 stitches taken together 3 times, knit 1 stitch, which is the centre stitch of the pattern, decrease 3 times, increase 3 times, and repeat these 19 stitches until you come to the needle with 64 stitches, which is always plain knitting. Knit 3 rounds. Repeat these 4 rounds until the glove is long enough to begin to increase for the thumb: after the 3 plain rounds, knit 1 stitch, increase 1 by taking up a stitch between 2 stitches, knit 1, increase 1: continue to increase in the same manner before and after the last increase, every other round, continuing the pattern on the 2 needles as before. When you have 9 stitches for the thumb, and have knitted the round without increasing, knit a stitch, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch, knit 2 stitches taken together, knit a stitch (this is to be the centre stitch of the thumb), knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch, knit 1 stitch, increase as before.

When you have knitted the 3 rounds, increasing as usual, on the 1st needle, knit 1 stitch, increase 1, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch, repeat this, decrease twice, knit the centre stitch, decrease twice, increase twice, increase the stitch for the thumb. In the next round of the holes of the pattern you will have 17 stitches for the thumb: increase as usual, knit 2 stitches, increase twice, decrease twice; knit the centre stitch, decrease twice, increase twice, knit 2, increase 1. In future you will have stitches enough to make the pattern down the thumb like the pattern at the back, which is to be done with the 19 middle stitches of the thumb, the rest on either side are to be knitted plain: when you have increased 45 stitches and knitted 1 round, take all the other stitches on 2 other needles, and knit the thumb round, gradually decreasing a few stitches at the join. When the thumb is finished take the stitches for the hand on your needles as before, take up 5 stitches for the gusset at the bottom of the thumb, and continue knitting as before, (on the third needle you will have an odd stitch, which belongs to the 1st needle, it will prevent any mistake if you pass it on to the 1st needle); after doing a few rounds, decrease the gusset stitches until you have 64 stitches on the 1st needle: continue the pattern as before, and when the glove is long enough, begin the 1st finger with the first plain 20 stitches and the opposite 19; knit round, continuing the pattern down the outside of the finger: when you have done this finger, take up 4 stitches for the gusset at the bottom of the 1st finger,2 16 plain stitches, and 19 of the pattern. The other 2 fingers are done in the same manner: 14 plain stitches, 19 of the pattern, for the third finger, and 12 plain stitches and 19 of the pattern for the 4th finger, these numbers do not include the gusset stitches.

When finished, sew a piece of lace round the top, and run a narrow ribbon in the holes.

Plain open Mittens

Begin on a round foundation of 30 or 34 stitches, with a mesh No. 14, and moderately fine silk.

Net 6 rounds, net 1 round with the silk twice round the mesh, (for the ribbon to run in,) and 6 rounds with it once round the mesh; in the next round, net 14 stitches, increase 1 stitch in both the following stitches, complete the round, and net 2 rounds without increase. Increase again in the next round before and after the stitches in which you increased before; net 2 rounds. Continue to increase 2 stitches every 3rd round until you have increased 7 times on each side, (to make the thumb fit nicely, the increase stitches should be made over each other for the last 3 times.) Net 1 round and the 14 thumb stitches. Net the thumb round for a round or two, and decrease by netting 2 together, if necessary, until the thumb fits tight; when it is nearly long enough net 1 round, 2 stitches in every stitch twice round the mesh; 1 round, taking the 2 stitches together, on a finer mesh, and 2 rounds on the fine mesh to finish. Cut off the silk, and fasten it on at one side of the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side and continue to net until the mitten is long enough. Finish the hand in the same way in which the thumb was finished. If it be thought an improvement, the 4 last rows can be repeated at the wrist, or a lace sewn on to finish it.

Another plain Mitten

Begin with a foundation of 39 stitches, net 3 rows with the silk once round the mesh, 1 row with it twice round the mesh, and 3 more rows with it once. Now begin to net rounds instead of rows, by netting the last stitch of the row to the first. Net 9 rounds. Net 6 stitches, increase 1 in the 7th, finish the round. In the next round increase a stitch on each side of the stitch added last round, finish the round and net another round without increase. Increase outside the last additional stitches every other round until you have 7 additional stitches. Net a plain round. Next round, increase within the additional stitches; a plain round. Increase a second time within the last increase; net 3 plain rounds; continue to net until you come to the stitch over the last added stitch, net this to the corresponding stitch on the other side of the thumb, net round the thumb (decreasing to make it fit properly) until it is nearly long enough: finish it by netting 1 round with double silk twice, and 3 rounds with single silk once, round the mesh. To finish the hand, fasten on the silk at the side of the thumb, make 2 additional stitches on each side, (if after 2 rows you decrease these 4 stitches to 2 the thumb will set better), and net until the mitten is nearly long enough, then repeat twice the 4 rounds with which the thumb is finished; the last round should be done on rather a finer mesh.

Annet Mittens

Begin with 60 stitches. Net 4 rows; then net 1 row with the silk twice round the mesh, 2 rows with it once round the mesh, and begin to net rounds instead of rows. In the 1st round, every stitch has the silk passed twice round the mesh. 2nd round, pull the 1st stitch through the 2nd (from the back), net it, pull the 2nd stitch through the middle of the 1st, net it (taking care not to twist it), pull the 3rd through the 4th, net it, pull the 4th through the middle of the 3rd, net it, repeat these stitches until the round is completed. Net 1 round passing the silk twice round the mesh. In the next round, which is like the second, care must be taken that the thick part comes over the open part in the last pattern. In the round which follows, net 11 stitches twice round the mesh, increase 2 stitches in the 12th, net 5, and increase 2 stitches in the 6th. (All the stitches in this round have the silk passed twice round the mesh.) The next round is like the 2nd. Net 1 round twice round the mesh; then 1 like the 2nd. Repeat both these rounds. Net a round passing the silk twice round the mesh, increasing 2 stitches on each side; these additional stitches should be 4 further back than the last were, so as to leave a row of open stitches slanting from the 1st to the 2nd. Net 4 rounds as before. Increase again. Net 4 rounds more, and increase 2 stitches on each side over the last additional stitches. Net 3 rounds, and proceed to make the thumb as directed in the last pattern. When the thumb is nearly long enough, net 1 round twice round the mesh, 2 stitches in each stitch. In the next round net the 2 stitches as 1, and finish with 5 plain rounds, for the last of which use a very small mesh. To complete the hand fasten on the silk at the side of the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side, net the alternate rounds, and finish the hand like the thumb.

Honey-comb Mittens

Net 3 rows. Net 1 row, putting the silk twice round the mesh; 2 rows once round the mesh; then begin netting in rounds. 1st round, for every stitch put the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd round, (each stitch once round the mesh,) net the 2nd stitch first half turning it; then net the 1st stitch plain. Net the 4th stitch half turning it, then net the 3rd plain, and finish the round in the same manner. Every alternate repetition of the pattern you must plain net 1 stitch before beginning the pattern, so as to bring the thick stitch over the open one. Net a plain round, and begin again with the 1st. The same pattern is continued throughout the mitten, but for brevity the number of rounds only is given. When 6 rounds are done, net 10 stitches increase 2 in the 11th, net 3, and increase 2 more in the 4th. Net 2 rounds, and increase again 2 stitches in the stitch which would have been over the 1st stitch in which you increased, (had you not increased,) net 7 and increase 2 more. Net 2 rounds, and in the next round increase again 2 stitches on each side of the thumb. Net 2 rounds, and increase a 4th time; net 2 rounds, and then net the first and last stitches of the thumb together. Decrease if necessary, and when the thumb is nearly long enough, finish with double silk, 1 round twice round the mesh, 1 round once round, 1 round twice round, and 2 once round the mesh. Fasten on the silk at the bottom of the thumb, add 1 stitch on each side, and net the alternate rounds of the pattern until the mitten is long enough to be finished like the thumb.

Matrimony Mittens

The increase and diminution are precisely the same as in the last mitten; the increase stitches are made in the plain knitted rounds. As this stitch is given for a purse, it is not necessary to repeat it. The mitten must be netted on a foundation of 48 or 50 stitches.

Note.—It will be observed that the last patterns for mittens, begin with rows instead of rounds, this is to prevent the necessity of untieing the ribbon every time the mitten is taken off: a button is fastened to one side of the opening and a loop is made on the other.

Lambs’-wool Mittens

Begin on a foundation of 53 stitches, and with a mesh a quarter of an inch wide.

Net 4 rows. Net 1 row with silk, on a mesh half the size of the 1st. Net 2 rows with lambs’-wool on the 1st mesh. 1 row with silk on the 2nd. Repeat these rows of lambs’-wool and silk 4 times: then in the middle of the row, net 13 stitches of wool on the large mesh, and net the same back again. Net 1 row of silk, 2 of lambs’-wool, 1 of silk, these stitches form the thumb. Begin again on the hand part of the mitten: net 2 rows of lambs’-wool (leaving out the 13 thumb stitches), 1 row of silk, 2 rows of lambs’-wool, 1 of silk, 2 of lambs’-wool, and 1 of silk. All the rows of lambs’-wool are netted on the large mesh; all those of silk on the small mesh. Sew up the thumb and hand, and run a ribbon in at the top of the first row of silk.

This mitten may be made of one, two, or three colours.

Mitten in Round Netting

Begin on a round foundation of 44 stitches, with a mesh No. 14.

Pass the needle under the silk every stitch, as directed, in round netting for a purse, throughout the mitten. Net 4 rounds. 1 round twice round the mesh. 2 rounds once round the mesh, increase a stitch, taking care to take the left hand side of the stitch as that by the twist you give the silk will be nearer the right side of the stitch; net 2 stitches, increasing in the last. Net two rounds. Increase 2 stitches in the third round, (the increase stitches are one before and one after the stitches which are over those in which the increase was made last time); increase in the same way 5 times, netting 2 rounds between each increase. Increase over the last added stitches 3 times, and net several rounds until the mitten is long enough for the thumb stitches to be joined together. Join the first and last stitches over the last added stitches, and net round, decreasing occasionally to make the thumb fit. When the thumb is long enough, cut off the silk and fasten it on at the bottom; increase 4 stitches, (2 on each side) and net round until the hand part of the mitten is long enough.

If desired, the hand and thumb may be finished with a narrow lace, or a round of plain netting, 2 stitches in each stitch, which in the next round are netted as one stitch, on a small mesh.

Mittens

Four needles No. 16, and two different coloured silks are required, for instance brown and blue.

Cast 30 stitches on each of 3 needles with the brown silk and rib one round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue silk, knit 4 with the brown, knit 2 stitches bringing the silk forward between each, knit 3 stitches, repeat these stitches all round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue, with the brown knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together, repeat all round and continue these 2 rounds alternately until 5 rounds of holes appear. Knit a plain round of brown; knit 2 plain rounds of blue and increase 2 stitches on each needle. Knit 4 blue stitches and 4 brown stitches alternately, round. Knit 1 brown stitch, knit 4 blue, 4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches, round. Knit 2 brown stitches, 4 blue, 4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 3 brown stitches, 4 blue, 4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 1 round, blue, 1 round, brown, 1 round, blue. Make the other half of the wreath the same reversed. Knit 2 blue rounds, 1 brown round, in the last 2 rounds decrease to 28 stitches on each needle. Bring the blue silk forward, knit 2 stitches taken together, repeat this all round. Knit 1 plain round. Repeat the last 2 rounds until 18 or 20 rounds of holes appear; then with a spare needle take off 14 stitches for the thumb; cast 14 stitches on the right hand needle, and continue the pattern as before until you have 14 rounds of holes above the thumb. Knit the wreath as before and finish with a brown round.

Take up the 14 stitches for the thumb, knit about 14 rounds of holes, and finish with a brown round.

Feather Mits

These mits are very nice and warm to draw over long gloves in going to evening parties. Four needles, No. 13, and German lambs’-wool are required; the wool should be knitted in shades of either half or a whole skein of wool.

Cast 38 stitches on one, and 19 on each of the 2 other needles. Knit a plain round. Bring the wool forward, knit 1 stitch, repeat this twice; decrease, taking 2 stitches together 3 times; knit 1 stitch, this is the centre stitch of the pattern, and is always plain knitting; decrease 3 times; increase 3 times; repeat these 19 stitches all round. Plain knit 3 rounds. These 4 rounds repeated form the pattern.

Cuffs, Peacock Stitch

Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles. Purl 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches, bring the thread forward, knit 8 stitches, bringing the thread forward between each, knit 2 stitches, repeat these stitches round. 2nd round. Purl 3 stitches, pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit plain until within 2 stitches of the purl, knit them taken together, repeat all round. Repeat this last round until you have only 15 stitches before and after the purled stitches. Purl 3 stitches pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 stitches, bring the thread forward, and knit 8 stitches bringing the thread forward between each, knit 1 stitch, knit 2 taken together, repeat this for the round; then begin again at the 2nd round. When the cuff is long enough cast off and sew a bit of lace at each edge.

Netted Cuffs

Four skeins of colored lambs’-wool and 6 of white; a steel pin No. 14, a flat wooden mesh ½ an inch wide, and a foundation of 120 stitches, are required.

Net 2 rows of colored lambs’-wool with the steel pin; 1 row with white lambs’-wool and the large mesh; then 1 row with the colored, netting 2 white stitches in one, which reduces the stitches to half the number; net another row of colored wool, 1 of white, 2 of colored, &c., until there are 7 rows of white, besides the first, with 2 rows of colored between each. Net 2 rows of colored, 1 of white, netting 2 stitches in every colored one, and finish with 2 rows of colored.

Sew it up, double it and run in a ribbon. This forms a very warm and pretty cuff to wear over the sleeve. The white rows are netted on the wide mesh, the colored on the small mesh.

Warm Cuffs

Cast on any number of stitches according to the size of your needles; knit 12 rows plain; knit 1 row putting the wool twice round the needle; rib a row, putting the wool twice round the needle; repeat the last 2 rows until you have about a quarter of a yard, and finish by knitting 12 rows as at first.

Sew it up and fold the top and bottom together.

Muffatees

Four needles No. 17, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.

Cast 24 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round, knitting and ribbing 3 alternate stitches varying the color at pleasure: when the muffatee is about six inches long, begin double knitting3 on coarser needles; when you have knitted about 2 inches, knit 6 plain rows and cast off; sew up the part that is in double knitting.

Muffatees

Two middling sized ivory needles and rather fine wool, the color may be varied at pleasure.

Cast on 40 stitches, knit 4 rows; rib 1 row; continue to repeat these rows, reckoning the cast on row as one; when the muffatee is long enough cast off and sew it up.

These muffatees are very pretty, made on fine needles with German wool.

Gentlemen’s Muffatees

Two needles No. 14, 4 skeins of colored German lambs’-wool and 4 of white.

Cast on 54 stitches; bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, and knit 2 stitches taken together; repeat the same to the end of the row; every row is the same; knit up 1 skein of colored wool, 2 of white, and finish the muffatee with 1 skein of colored wool; sew it up.

These muffatees are also very nice for ladies, to be worn outside the sleeve in very cold weather: they are then knitted with coarse lambs’-wool, the first part done on large needles, the centre on smaller, and the remainder on the large needles again.

Cushion Cover

This requires 4 needles No. 16, and moderately fine cotton or German lambs’-wool, white or colored, according to fancy.

Cast 100 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 101 on the 3rd; with your 4th needle knit the 2nd stitch, drawing it over the first; knit the 1st stitch, (which will thus stand 2nd); knit the 4th stitch, then the 3rd, the 6th, and 5th, and continue the same all round, when you will find an odd stitch at the end of your needle, slip this stitch on to the next needle, and continue the pattern as before. You will now find an odd stitch at the end of each needle, which you must always slip on to the next needle.

When you have knitted as much as, when laid flat, will make a square, knit or sew up one end, slip in the cushion, sew up the other end, and surround it with a cord or fringe.

Sofa Pillow Cover

Cast 74 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round with the thread twice round the needle; in the 2nd round begin by knitting the 2nd stitch, slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd stitches, 6th and 5th, and continue the same all round; knit one round with the thread twice round the needle, and repeat the 2nd round; these two rounds form the pattern.

When your work is as long as it is wide, (rather more than half a yard) cast off, and surround it with a cord or fringe.

Striped Cushion Cover

Cast 100 stitches on each of 3 needles No. 11; knit the 2nd stitch slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st, knit the 4th before the 3rd, the 6th before the 5th, and continue the same all round. Every round is the same.

Knitted Mat with Fringe

Four needles No. 14, and rather stout lambs’-wool.

Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds; increase by bringing the wool forward before every stitch every 3rd round, until you have 16 on each needle; knit 2 rounds; purl 2 rounds; knit 1 round, increasing (as before) with every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1 round increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1 round increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 3 rounds; purl 1 round; knit 1 round; purl 1 round; knit 1 round; purl 1 round; knit 1 round. Take the wool with which you mean to make your fringe and cut it into lengths (you will require as many pieces as you have stitches in a round) about 3½ inches long. Fold the two ends of one of the lengths together and loop in on the needle with which you are about to begin to knit, put the needle through the 1st stitch, hold the piece of fringe with the third finger of the left hand, and knit the stitch, by which you fix the bit of fringe; loop on another piece, place it under the third finger of the left hand and knit the stitch; continue the same all round; in the next round knit each piece of fringe with the adjoining stitch, all round, and cast off.